Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: Leeann on 12/04/10 08:23am

Great job!

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: oldtrucker63 on 12/04/10 05:52pm

Our 2002 Dodge van has a deal that when and if you leave anything turned on,... Headlights / inside lights / Stereo / After 20 to 30 mins, I have never timed it Anyway it will turn everything off, Cut the power to everything and stay that way until you turn the key back on.

Without Trucks,....America Stop's

Posted By: rvrdrunner on 12/04/10 07:40pm

From what I can tell, this timer triggers off the door switch, and only kicks on the headlight switch lamp. I've seen this kind of feature on newer cars, usually the area around the keyhole lights.

Found it by accident, it had gotten dark, and I was putting up for the day, closed the door, and there's the light, was there winding up air hoses, and when I looked up....no light, so I open the door and it pops on, close the door and 90 seconds later it shuts down.

Felt like a clown after figuring it out, and had to tell the wife so.

It's turned in the drive, ready for the front coachwork. I'm digging around for an old carbide skilsaw blade to cut some bits of diamond plate I need for my ladder mounts.

The rear looks nice all lit up, just needs a few green lights to be seasonal!

Posted By: goreds2 on 12/12/10 06:20am

1976Sportsman wrote:

here are some pics
[image]

I know the pictures are sideways but your 1976 is in CRAZY good shape for that year. It had to have been stored indoors most if not all of it's life. ENJOY !

See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds

Posted By: oldtrucker63 on 12/12/10 11:46am

The sideways pixs was killing me, Hey this rig is very nice.

[image]

Posted By: rvrdrunner on 12/13/10 05:51pm

Took the old girl out for a spin today, really the first time it's been out since I got it.

Brake pedal was soft, and low, and the brake light came on and stayed on. It required more than normal effort to stop. Such was not the case on the drive home from the PO's residence.

This has a hydro-boost unit on it, anyone have insight on this system? I've read this entire thread, and I don't think this has been previously addressed, but I could be wrong.

Oh, the unit is a 78, sold in 79. The PO said the booster is a reman. unit, as well as the master, both recently replaced. They look fairly new.

I'd like to figure out the proper bleeding procedure for the booster, and the brakes, though I think that process is as normal.

thanks! rvrdrunner

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 12/13/10 06:40pm

rvrdrunner wrote:

The brake light indicates a pressure imbalance between the front and rear brake systems, usually because one of the systems is out of fluid or wasn't bled properly.

The front and rear brakes are separate systems, each fed by a separate chamber in the master cylinder. (That way at least part of the brakes still work if there's a leak.) On the frame rail is a sensor switch with a piston inside that keeps the switch turned off. If either brake system loses pressure (or has low pressure) the other system pushes the piston off center, allowing the switch to turn on.

First step is to inspect for brake fluid leakage, especially on the side of the tires towards the underside of the vehicle. It should be easy to spot because there will probably be a lot of fluid. (Worn wheel cylinders, on drum brakes, or calipers, on disc brakes, is the most common source of brake fluid leakage.

I'm assuming you have separate brake booster(s) mounted of the frame rails. If your brake booster is mounted between the pedal and the master cylinder, then it's just like any light truck or car. Medium duty truck chassis, which is what's under most motorhomes, typically use separate brake booster(s) and often have two brake boosters (one for the front brakes and a separate booster for the rear brakes).

On each brake booster is a slave cylinder with a bleed screw. This is the part of the bleeding process that most shops miss. The bleeding process is basically the same as for light trucks and cars, with the added step of bleeding the slave cylinders. You want to push any air in the systems through the lines and out the bleed screws on the slave cylinders and wheel cylinders/calipers, starting with the farthest wheel and working forward.

Start by making sure the master cylinder is topped off and keep it topped off during the process. Trace the brake lines to figure out which booster drives the rear brakes. Have someone pump up the brakes and hold pressure on them. While they're holding the pedal, open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder for the rear brake booster and close it when fluid and/or air quits rushing out. Make sure your helper holds the pedal down until you've closed the bleed screw or they will draw air back into the system.

Repeat that until you're sure you have all the air removed from the line between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. (The pedal should require less, if any, pumping and have a firmer feel.)

Next, perform the same process on the slave cylinder for the front brake booster.

Once you're fairly sure all the air is bled out of the lines between the master cylinder and the slave cylinders, start with the right rear wheel cylinder and perform the same process -- helper pump up and hold the pedal while you open and close the bleed screw on the right rear wheel cylinder.

Once you're sure that line has been bled completely, repeat the process with the left rear wheel, front right wheel, and front left wheel, in that order.

I've had to perform the whole process two or three times to get the systems completely bled and up to top performance, so be patient. (In addition to missing the slave cylinders, many shops rush through the process, which is why so many trucks leave the shops with spongy, subpar brakes.)

BTW - if the bleed screws are seized, use PB Blaster on them and let them soak. (It may take several applications, over several days, get them loose. Trying to force them will usually result in damaged bleed screws.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: rvrdrunner on 12/13/10 07:32pm

All good information, Griff, but this is a 'C' class, and it has, instead of the normal vacuum booster, a hydro-boost unit mounted where the booster is normally, under the hood, directly attatched to the master.

(I'd found references to the system you described earlier in this thread)

This booster is the type I'm not familiar with. I have seen a similar system on some cars, Caddilac, if memory serves.

Apparently it is supplied fluid by the power steering pump. Is there a bleeding process for this pump? The fluid in the PS pump is at normal level.

I've had all the wheels off, to check cylinders, calipers, and linings physically for wear and leaks....none, not even behind the slave cyl. booties.

As far as bleeding the actual brake system, I have both pressure and vacuum bleeding systems here at the house. I've found the vacuum system does a fine job of pulling fluid without the emulsified air you sometimes get when pump-bleeding. My intention is to flush the system with new fluid, no telling how long some of that stuff has been in there.

again, thanks! rvrdrunner

Posted By: oldtrucker63 on 12/14/10 12:54am

A great way to bleed your brakes is with a bleeder kit, Had to beat for $5.00 and a lot easer than having someone pump and hold the brakes when bleeding them.
Brake Bleeder Kit.

Posted By: TreeSeeker on 12/14/10 09:42am

rvrdrunner,

I had to have the booster replaced on my 78/79 recently. There was a leak in the diaphragm inside the booster. It is now way easier to brake.

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