Mortland wrote:
how about a idea where to just get the brake pad online.. i have a friend who is pretty good with mechanics and could put them on but obvikously i cant find the brake pad to go with it.. Anywhere online?
how about a idea where to just get the brake pad online.. i have a friend who is pretty good with mechanics and could put them on but obvikously i cant find the brake pad to go with it.. Anywhere online?
You're better off with a local place, where you can take the old pads in and compare them to the new ones. (See my previous comment.
BTW - you're not alone in your situation. My wife, two teen-age children, and I lived in our motorhome for a summer, and into late fall, in interior Alaska while we got a shack on my uncle's property livable after I retired from the Air Force.
Also, I know of an active duty U.S. Army soldier, on an unaccompanied tour, who's living in a motorhome because of Army regulations. It was either that or a tent because the Army wouldn't give her a barracks room because she's collecting housing allowance for her dependents who remained at her home of record.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Pad/shoe pkg, front:
OE Replacement: 4.0M FA SRW DIsc and 3.3M FA Disc: MKD86
Shim kit: SH86A
Hardware Kit: H5516
Rotor, Front:
Either 141193 (SRW) or 141089 (DRW)
Caliper:
Front, L-Loaded: L55119M (reman R55119)
Front, R-Loaded: L55118M (reman R55118)
Hoses
Front: 77211
Rear: 77211
Wheel Cylinder (rear):
L 33206
R 33207
Master Cylinder: 11494 1-18"
11583 1-5/16"
SRW = Single Rear Wheels
DRW = Dual Rear Wheels
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Trish Davis wrote:
Uhm, yeah. Another thought.
You been running the A/C or defrost much?
And you might want to stick the old cap back on. Less pressure until you find out exactly where the coolant leak is.
Your genny exhaust rocks.
eyeteeth wrote:
Also, ran into a strange issue that has me a little baffled. I have a coolent leak. It looks to be weeping from around the bottom of the water pump at the top of the hose. The hose is new from last fall when I rebuilt the engine. Running it last weekend, the gas guage moved more than the temp... I never added water (after we initially worked on it) and would be perfectly dry when I'd stop, but ten minutes later is would leak a little again. I 'thought' maybe the radiator cap pooped out, that it wasn't venting anymore so it escaped at the next weakest point when the coolent was no longer circulating and getting the extra temps from sitting in the motor. However, after replacing the cap... now I noticed a small puddle again under the hose. 3 days after replacing the cap? Anyone have any other suggestions.
Also, ran into a strange issue that has me a little baffled. I have a coolent leak. It looks to be weeping from around the bottom of the water pump at the top of the hose. The hose is new from last fall when I rebuilt the engine. Running it last weekend, the gas guage moved more than the temp... I never added water (after we initially worked on it) and would be perfectly dry when I'd stop, but ten minutes later is would leak a little again. I 'thought' maybe the radiator cap pooped out, that it wasn't venting anymore so it escaped at the next weakest point when the coolent was no longer circulating and getting the extra temps from sitting in the motor. However, after replacing the cap... now I noticed a small puddle again under the hose. 3 days after replacing the cap? Anyone have any other suggestions.
Uhm, yeah. Another thought.
You been running the A/C or defrost much?
And you might want to stick the old cap back on. Less pressure until you find out exactly where the coolant leak is.
Your genny exhaust rocks.
My thought was the cap was stuck and NOT venting. The dash AC doesn't work, and isn't real high on my list of things that NEED to be fixed. Defrost... once in three years that I can think of.
Leeann wrote:
According to the Bendix catalog, for '78 MB400 the part no's are as follows:
Pad/shoe pkg, front:
OE Replacement: 4.0M FA SRW DIsc and 3.3M FA Disc: MKD86
Shim kit: SH86A
Hardware Kit: H5516
Rotor, Front:
Either 141193 (SRW) or 141089 (DRW)
Caliper:
Front, L-Loaded: L55119M (reman R55119)
Front, R-Loaded: L55118M (reman R55118)
Hoses
Front: 77211
Rear: 77211
Wheel Cylinder (rear):
L 33206
R 33207
Master Cylinder: 11494 1-18"
11583 1-5/16"
SRW = Single Rear Wheels
DRW = Dual Rear Wheels
According to the Bendix catalog, for '78 MB400 the part no's are as follows:
Pad/shoe pkg, front:
OE Replacement: 4.0M FA SRW DIsc and 3.3M FA Disc: MKD86
Shim kit: SH86A
Hardware Kit: H5516
Rotor, Front:
Either 141193 (SRW) or 141089 (DRW)
Caliper:
Front, L-Loaded: L55119M (reman R55119)
Front, R-Loaded: L55118M (reman R55118)
Hoses
Front: 77211
Rear: 77211
Wheel Cylinder (rear):
L 33206
R 33207
Master Cylinder: 11494 1-18"
11583 1-5/16"
SRW = Single Rear Wheels
DRW = Dual Rear Wheels
Again im no expert nor even much of a idea of what im doing but would this d86 prake pad from http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Pads-Front/1978-Dodge-B300-1-ton-Van/_/N-imysbZ8ko29?counter=0&itemIdentifier=353615_0_6961_
with the information above it says something similia "mkd86" ... Would that fit on my front right brake?
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
Mortland wrote:
how about a idea where to just get the brake pad online.. i have a friend who is pretty good with mechanics and could put them on but obvikously i cant find the brake pad to go with it.. Anywhere online?
Try this Here you can find what your looking for.how about a idea where to just get the brake pad online.. i have a friend who is pretty good with mechanics and could put them on but obvikously i cant find the brake pad to go with it.. Anywhere online?
MB400 brakes and more.
Mortland wrote:
Again im no expert nor even much of a idea of what im doing but would this d86 prake pad from http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Pads-Front/1978-Dodge-B300-1-ton-Van/_/N-imysbZ8ko29?counter=0&itemIdentifier=353615_0_6961_
with the information above it says something similia "mkd86" ... Would that fit on my front right brake?
Again im no expert nor even much of a idea of what im doing but would this d86 prake pad from http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Pads-Front/1978-Dodge-B300-1-ton-Van/_/N-imysbZ8ko29?counter=0&itemIdentifier=353615_0_6961_
with the information above it says something similia "mkd86" ... Would that fit on my front right brake?
Most likely no. As someone stated, and I reiterated, the B300 and MB400 chassis are very different. The B300, if I recall correctly, has a gross vehicle weight (GVW) rating of 9,000 or 10,000 pounds and, as Leeann indicated when she posted the breakdown on your serial number, the (your) MB400 has a GVW rating of 10,001 to 14,000 pounds.
Higher GVW means more weight carrying capacity, which means heavier duty chassis components and, ESPECIALLY, beefier brakes to effectively stop the extra weight.
A guy up here in Alaska replace the original front axle in his motorhome with a B300 axle because he wanted to make things prettier. ('Prettier' wasn't his term ... it's my term, deliberately chosen to convey my sarcasm about why he tried to do what he did.) Things seemed to work okay until the day he really needed to stop quickly. A large piece of junk fell off a truck in front of him, at highway speeds, and he jammed on the brakes. His motorhome barely slowed down until it had run completely over the junk. End result was several thousand dollars worth of damage to the undercarriage of his motorhome. The OEM brakes, had he left the original axle on, probably would have slowed the motorhome enough to reduce most to the damage, if not stopped the motorhome completely.
I'm not sure why you're so determined to buy the brake pads and parts online, versus at a local store. At least, you'll have to wait while the parts are shipped to you. And, if the parts are incorrect, you'll have to wait even longer while they're shipped back. Also, most online place don't refund shipping and charge a restocking fee (typically 25%) if the parts mistake wasn't theirs. (i.e., if you order the wrong part, they'll only refund part of the purchase price and nothing for the shipping.)
BTW - you might have Kelsey-Hayes calipers ... I (or you) would have to look at the calipers to know for sure.
IN her latest post, Leeann gave you all the information you need to get the parts, assuming she got it right. (And, she almost always gets it right.)
I looked up the brake pads (MKD86) on NAPAOnline, using their interchange cross-reference, and found at least a half dozen choices, ranging from economy to top-of-the-line, starting at roughly $18.00 a set. I also called my favorite local NAPA parts guy and he said they had a set in stock on the shelf.
That's just the pads. I'd recommend getting a set of loaded calipers. ("Loaded" calipers come with the brake pads and make for a more complete job.) Leeann included the number for loaded calipers, which can be cross-referenced through the parts interchange to the equivalent NAPA number.
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis