mooncounter wrote:
I live 24/7 in a 24' 1976 Dodge Vogue B300 with a 360.
Hedman Hedders, Edelbrock Heads. Complete package with a shower and tub, stove and oven, fridge and freezer, hot water tank, furnace,4kw Onan generator, tv and wifi laptop and plan on wintering in it here in BC, Canada.
You could say I'm a big fan of the olde Dodge rigs.
Just joined the forum today, hope we can help each other out with the quirks and quarks to come.
Welome to the Old Dodge fan club, The people here is great and I'm sure you will enjoy this place, I bet you will be counting many Moons this winter, Sounds like a lot of fun man....Enjoy.
I live 24/7 in a 24' 1976 Dodge Vogue B300 with a 360.
Hedman Hedders, Edelbrock Heads. Complete package with a shower and tub, stove and oven, fridge and freezer, hot water tank, furnace,4kw Onan generator, tv and wifi laptop and plan on wintering in it here in BC, Canada.
You could say I'm a big fan of the olde Dodge rigs.
Just joined the forum today, hope we can help each other out with the quirks and quarks to come.
Without Trucks,....America Stop's
goreds2 wrote:
For right now until I can think of something else, I used a styrofoam cup and cut it down the side on through the bottom. I place the cord in it then stuck the cup in the hole.
goreds2 wrote:
Since I a full of questions today![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/awink.gif "awink")
, I noticed there is a gap in the hole where the RV plug comes out at upon plugging it in. Is there a special thing or something home made to plug that hole up during this process so no "criters" can get in the coach?
Thanks,
Since I a full of questions today
, I noticed there is a gap in the hole where the RV plug comes out at upon plugging it in. Is there a special thing or something home made to plug that hole up during this process so no "criters" can get in the coach? Thanks,
For right now until I can think of something else, I used a styrofoam cup and cut it down the side on through the bottom. I place the cord in it then stuck the cup in the hole.
Maybe try a short chunk of plumbing pipe insulation ... the kind that's split lengthwise to slip over water pipes. (Like this ... if this link works ...)
Might have to trim a little off the sides of the slit to get it to fit tight around the cord but you should be able to compress it to fit it snugly into the hole and seal it up.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
gusgon1965 wrote:
what kind od rims did you used? ford?chevy? etc? thank you.
JDMopar wrote:
Got new tires for our rig. Did away with the 16.5 wheel/tires, and put 16" wheels on. The simulators fit the 16" wheels better than they did the originals! We put 225/75-16's on it, and they fit perfect. Load range E tires. The new tires are the exact same height as the 8.75 x 16.5's that came off of it, so we only had to buy 6 tires instead of 7. Finding the wheels was the hard part! I bought 5 off of Craigslist for $25 each, and found one more at a tire store for $35. Even having to buy wheels, it was still cheaper than just buying new 16.5 tires. Now as soon as my front brake hoses and calipers arrive from Rock auto.....we'll be ready to rock!
Got new tires for our rig. Did away with the 16.5 wheel/tires, and put 16" wheels on. The simulators fit the 16" wheels better than they did the originals! We put 225/75-16's on it, and they fit perfect. Load range E tires. The new tires are the exact same height as the 8.75 x 16.5's that came off of it, so we only had to buy 6 tires instead of 7. Finding the wheels was the hard part! I bought 5 off of Craigslist for $25 each, and found one more at a tire store for $35. Even having to buy wheels, it was still cheaper than just buying new 16.5 tires. Now as soon as my front brake hoses and calipers arrive from Rock auto.....we'll be ready to rock!
what kind od rims did you used? ford?chevy? etc? thank you.
Doesn't really matter as most were all made by the same manufacturer(s).
Bolt pattern is a standard 8 X 6.5" with coined holes.
If I recall correctly, older Fords used the same rims as the Dodges and older Chevys were different. (Six versus eight lug bolts ... memory is foggy.)
In recent years, Ford has gone to a different bolt pattern, with a different bolt circle diameter. Newer Chevys have the same 8 X 6.5" bolt pattern but without coined holes. Also, the newer Chevy rims have a slightly smaller hub hole that won't quite fit over the axle ends on the Dana 70 rear axles used on most Dodge motorhomes.
I bought six tubeless 16" rims from the local junkyard that just happened to have the Dodge pentastar stamped inside, but ones with a Ford oval would have been identical, except for the stamp. (I wanted to replace the original split rims on my '69/70.)
Since then, I've switched to the newer chassis, with front disc brakes that require 16.5" (or larger) rims. (!6" rims bind up against the calipers.) I got a set of seven 17" dually rims that were pull-offs from a Chevy Silverado. I'll need to turn the hub holes out slightly to get them to fit on the Dana 70 axle. I may also have to sleeve the lug bolt holes to make everything fit correctly and function safely.
Yes, sounds like a lot of work but it suits my purposes and goals ... it's just not necessarily suitable for anyone else.
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis
Jer&Ger wrote:
Thanks for that info Griff, I need to start looking for new rims for mine too as my tires are at the age to replace...Jerry
Thanks for that info Griff, I need to start looking for new rims for mine too as my tires are at the age to replace...Jerry
You can have the six original 16" rims for the cost of shipping,if you willing to deal with split rims ...
I no longer need the six tubeless 16" rims I bought from the junkyard but I know you can find the same thing for less in the Lower 48. (The junkyard periodically ships up a pallet load of the rims to service RV'ers in Alaska who damage rims.)
I originally paid $75 each for the tubeless rims and would like to get my money back. You could buy new rims for what it would cost to buy mine, plus shipping.
Shop around and watch craigslist ... $50.00 each would be about right for used 16" tubeless dually rims in the Lower 48.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Maybe try a short chunk of plumbing pipe insulation ... the kind that's split lengthwise to slip over water pipes. (Like this ... if this link works ...)
Might have to trim a little off the sides of the slit to get it to fit tight around the cord but you should be able to compress it to fit it snugly into the hole and seal it up.
goreds2 wrote:
For right now until I can think of something else, I used a styrofoam cup and cut it down the side on through the bottom. I place the cord in it then stuck the cup in the hole.
goreds2 wrote:
Since I a full of questions today , I noticed there is a gap in the hole where the RV plug comes out at upon plugging it in. Is there a special thing or something home made to plug that hole up during this process so no "criters" can get in the coach?
Thanks,
Since I a full of questions today
, I noticed there is a gap in the hole where the RV plug comes out at upon plugging it in. Is there a special thing or something home made to plug that hole up during this process so no "criters" can get in the coach? Thanks,
For right now until I can think of something else, I used a styrofoam cup and cut it down the side on through the bottom. I place the cord in it then stuck the cup in the hole.
Maybe try a short chunk of plumbing pipe insulation ... the kind that's split lengthwise to slip over water pipes. (Like this ... if this link works ...)
Might have to trim a little off the sides of the slit to get it to fit tight around the cord but you should be able to compress it to fit it snugly into the hole and seal it up.
That looks good. THANKS!
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
TreeSeeker wrote:
Goreds2,
I don't have such a switch on mine so I don't know the answer. I think you will need a multimeter to get a definitive answer.
Guessing, I would say that CONV means the house 12v system is being powered by the converter, and conversly BATT means it is being powered by the battery. Mine switches automatically.
One way you can test is to not plug in to shore power and set the switch to CONV and see if any of the 12v stuff works (lights, etc).
If not, then stitch to BATT and see if they work. If so, then the system is as I described above.
Let us know what you find.
Goreds2,
Quote:
Good point but do I switch to CONV or BATT on the converter or does it matter.
Good point but do I switch to CONV or BATT on the converter or does it matter.
I don't have such a switch on mine so I don't know the answer. I think you will need a multimeter to get a definitive answer.
Guessing, I would say that CONV means the house 12v system is being powered by the converter, and conversly BATT means it is being powered by the battery. Mine switches automatically.
One way you can test is to not plug in to shore power and set the switch to CONV and see if any of the 12v stuff works (lights, etc).
If not, then stitch to BATT and see if they work. If so, then the system is as I described above.
Let us know what you find.
You are correct concerning this. Thanks,
goreds2 wrote:
Since I a full of questions today , I noticed there is a gap in the hole where the RV plug comes out at upon plugging it in. Is there a special thing or something home made to plug that hole up during this process so no "criters" can get in the coach?
Thanks,
Kinda hard to explain, But I have one ordered and on the way, I will be installing it with a piece of rubber intertube with a hole cut in the tube to where the cord will slide through the tube blocking anything from getting into the hole.Since I a full of questions today
, I noticed there is a gap in the hole where the RV plug comes out at upon plugging it in. Is there a special thing or something home made to plug that hole up during this process so no "criters" can get in the coach? Thanks,
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
mooncounter wrote:
I live 24/7 in a 24' 1976 Dodge Vogue B300 with a 360.
Hedman Hedders, Edelbrock Heads. Complete package with a shower and tub, stove and oven, fridge and freezer, hot water tank, furnace,4kw Onan generator, tv and wifi laptop and plan on wintering in it here in BC, Canada.
You could say I'm a big fan of the olde Dodge rigs.
Just joined the forum today, hope we can help each other out with the quirks and quarks to come.
I live 24/7 in a 24' 1976 Dodge Vogue B300 with a 360.
Hedman Hedders, Edelbrock Heads. Complete package with a shower and tub, stove and oven, fridge and freezer, hot water tank, furnace,4kw Onan generator, tv and wifi laptop and plan on wintering in it here in BC, Canada.
You could say I'm a big fan of the olde Dodge rigs.
Just joined the forum today, hope we can help each other out with the quirks and quarks to come.
Cool... How long have you had the rig? Any pics? Any Mods you've made for winter use?