Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: eyeteeth on 06/28/10 08:55pm

... I've forgotten what what's like. [emoticon]

Posted By: Leeann on 06/28/10 09:05pm

Sorry, eye - didn't mean to rub that in, I swear.

'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Posted By: eyeteeth on 06/28/10 09:18pm

Just messin' with ya. If I can't laugh about it, I'd be in trouble. I at least had an interview for the first time in a year... of course, they started off saying they didn't actually have a position... they were just interviewing to meet people?

But I'm getting off topic now... at least I get to do a lot of camping!!!!

Posted By: skimask on 06/28/10 09:50pm

ALnCORY wrote:

So I put new tires on my rig. Went from the 8x16.5's to 8.75x16.5's. The 8.75's are taller therefore larger circumference, therefore effecting my speedometer.... Anyone know where to find the formula to recalculate my actual speed verses what my speedo will show? I think I saw this addressed once but don't remember if it was here or somewhere else....

It's really simple...if the old tire and the new tire have the same aspect ratio. In the whole calculation for figuring tire rpms, tire aspect ratio, axle ratios, speed, etc...the only thing you're changing here is tire width, which affects the aspect ratio, which affects the height, which affects the circumference, which affects the speed at a given rpm.
Therefore...assuming the old tire and the new tire have the same aspect ratio....
8" old tire vs 8.75" new tire = 91.4%, an 8.6% difference, give or take a bit.
Therefore, if your speedo is reading 60mph, you'll actually be going 65.16 mph. Very roughly speaking, 5mph fast on the freeway, 3 mph faster in town. And on the odometer, for every 100 miles driven according to the odometer, you'll actually have travelled 108.4 miles.
Make it easy and just add 10% to anything your trying to figure related to miles/mileage/mph and you'll err on the safe side...

JDG

Posted By: Kendas on 06/28/10 10:01pm

OR you cold just use a GPS and bounce it against your speedometer... I'm betting that the GPS will be more accurate than the +/- 10% full scale that the OEM used. [emoticon]

Ken

1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures

USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.

Posted By: ALnCORY on 06/29/10 09:37am

Thanks Ski and Kendas,and great link Eye, good info... The 8.75's are 1 inch wider diameter acording to a comparison chart I found.

Another question: My gauge was showing discharge and a check on the tester proved no juice going into the battery. Changed out the alternator but that didn't solve the problem... is there something to do with the house/chassis dual charge system that could be a problem? not sure where to go... I didn't have the coach battery in so didn't check that side to see if it had juice... Any ideas?

* This post was edited 06/29/10 09:44am by ALnCORY *

I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!

Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 06/29/10 10:28am

ALnCORY wrote:

Voltage regulator.

Years ago, Sears checked my charging system (because I had a Diehard battery) and the technician said my alternator was bad. Did some checking myself and found the alternator was good but the voltage regulator was bad. $10.00 later my charging system was working again and continue to work for five more years, until I tore the motorhome apart to rebuild it.

The older mechanical voltage regulators tend to wear out quicker than the newer electronic regulators.

1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Posted By: ALnCORY on 06/29/10 10:52am

Thanks griff,,,, we will try that.....

Posted By: skimask on 06/29/10 12:53pm

What's your idle speed? How much stuff is turned on at idle? Does the battery voltage change when you rev up the engine a bit? Is the negative battery cable clean and tight on the engine block (if that's where it actually goes)? Is the battery in good shape? Does it hold a charge if it just sits there? Can I ask any more questions? [emoticon]

I'm done...
But I agree 100% with Griff...regulator. And if it ain't that, leave the new one in there, and keep the old regulator as a spare.
JDG

Posted By: eyeteeth on 06/29/10 12:54pm

Plus one to Griff's voltage regulator. I had a similar issue where batter and alternator checked fine, but the battery would still drain, and eventually quit. (Left me stranded once) Replaced the regulator... been a happy camper (pun intended) ever since.

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