Leeann wrote:
The float could be filled with gas; happens to old ones. That would make any adjustment moot.
The float could be filled with gas; happens to old ones. That would make any adjustment moot.
I replaced the original carb with a rebuilt one I got from one of the major chain parts stores last summer. Supposedly it has a new float in it, but the rebuild job appears to be very poor and so I wouldn't be surprised if it was bad. I might put the old carb back on, but that one flooded too and the gas line connection was completely stripped out.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/doh.gif "doh")
Tioga76 wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a complete valve job because I don't have the $$ for that this year. I'm curious though... I've heard that using unleaded gas on these old engines can be harmful to the valves. My owners manual says to use leaded gas only, so I add a lead substitute to the gas sometimes but I'm not consistent with it. I'm not old enough to even remember leaded gas - does the use of unleaded harm the engine?![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a complete valve job because I don't have the $$ for that this year. I'm curious though... I've heard that using unleaded gas on these old engines can be harmful to the valves. My owners manual says to use leaded gas only, so I add a lead substitute to the gas sometimes but I'm not consistent with it. I'm not old enough to even remember leaded gas - does the use of unleaded harm the engine?
I think your engine is okay ... I think it was around 1975 that they started building engines to use unleaded gas. (My 1977 B200 was fine on unleaded gas ... I drove it for 8-1/2 years and 170,000+ miles.) Yes, I remember leaded gas ... and remember the introduction of unleaded gas ... I think I even used unleaded gas in my '49 Int'l Metro and '66 Dodge Polara sometimes, without using lead substitute.
Older engines (prior to early '70s) didn't have hardened valve seats and needed the lead in the gas to make the valve seats last. People who want older engines to last a long time get the heads induction hardened or replace the heads with later-model heads. (I'm replacing the heads on my '69 318-3 with late '70s heads ... already got the heads, built up by Outrageously Vintage in Maine.)
Some people just use lead substitute and some just use straight unleaded gas and replace the heads when the valves beat the seats to death.
Like I said, I'm fairly sure your engine was built for unleaded gas but you could do a little research to determine when Mopar started using hardened valve seats in their engines. (Start by calling the local dealer or search the Allpar.com website.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Leeann wrote:
And seriously? Not old enough? I had the option to put leaded or unleaded in my first car...that I got when I was 20. The first year I owned the car, unleaded disappeared. Wasn't a problem for my little '81 Honda Accord, but a coworker with a 70s Ford big block was bummed.
And seriously? Not old enough? I had the option to put leaded or unleaded in my first car...that I got when I was 20. The first year I owned the car, unleaded disappeared. Wasn't a problem for my little '81 Honda Accord, but a coworker with a 70s Ford big block was bummed.
The Tioga's three years older than I am.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
I can't remember ever seeing leaded gas at a gas station since I've been driving. Maybe it was there and I don't remember.
And, it was 1973 (for cars) when unleaded fuels started.
I can't believe you have to have a 1 ton truck tested. But since you do, go in with the fresh oil change (that morning), make sue the engine is at operating temp (drive around at least 40 minutes before the test, all in one trip, have fresh gas in the tank, and see what happens. If you fail, you'll know what you need to do (usually a tune up adjustment is all that's needed) and we can go from there.
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
ALnCORY wrote:
my old 64 GTO would get 18 miles per gallon
my old 64 GTO would get 18 miles per gallon
Really? My old '67 GTO wouldn't get anywhere near 18 mpg. Of course, my then 16 year old lead foot might have had something to do with it.
79powerwagon wrote:
I doubt your oil burning will have an affect on your test results. There are a million 90's Caravans around here with the Mitusbishi V6 that are notorious oil burners that look like a James Bond movie scene that regularly pass the same sort of test.
And, it was 1973 (for cars) when unleaded fuels started.
I can't believe you have to have a 1 ton truck tested. But since you do, go in with the fresh oil change (that morning), make sue the engine is at operating temp (drive around at least 40 minutes before the test, all in one trip, have fresh gas in the tank, and see what happens. If you fail, you'll know what you need to do (usually a tune up adjustment is all that's needed) and we can go from there.
I doubt your oil burning will have an affect on your test results. There are a million 90's Caravans around here with the Mitusbishi V6 that are notorious oil burners that look like a James Bond movie scene that regularly pass the same sort of test.
And, it was 1973 (for cars) when unleaded fuels started.
I can't believe you have to have a 1 ton truck tested. But since you do, go in with the fresh oil change (that morning), make sue the engine is at operating temp (drive around at least 40 minutes before the test, all in one trip, have fresh gas in the tank, and see what happens. If you fail, you'll know what you need to do (usually a tune up adjustment is all that's needed) and we can go from there.
Ironically, the MH passes the emissions part of the test just fine (HC, CO, etc), but then it fails because of visible smoke. I guess in Colorado you can't get a waiver for smoke either, regardless of the cost to repair. But if it was polluting real bad, like high HC, I could spend a couple hundred bucks on repairs and if it failed again I could get a waiver. Go figure. I had a 93 Dynasty with the Mitsubishi V6 that made so much smoke I could barely see the car behind me. Passed every time.
Anyway, enough about the emissions test; I have to do it so I will do what I can to fix the smoking and I will try again. Thanks everyone for the information and advice on my problems.
![[image]](http://i332.photobucket.com/albums/m335/Frugal-Freak/79%20%20Brougham%20Class%20C%20%20Dodge%20Chassis%20440-3%20%20V8/440-3%20V8%20Engine/100_0707.jpg)
FrugalFreak, I followed the link to your photobucket site. Nice pics of the engine. Also looks like you are doing some major interior renovations! Were you able to remove the ceiling panels without taking the cabinets out first?