Leeann wrote:
eye - were you parked out of level, by any chance?
eye - were you parked out of level, by any chance?
Not by much. About 1/2 off by my levels r to l... front to back was 0 http://www.jcwhitney.com/HOPPY-GRADUATED-RV-LEVELS/GP_2013487_N_111+10207+600018217_10107.jcw if that's too far out for a fridge to work, then I'll resort to using coolers as I can seldom get it much closer.
Sounds more like a control board failure, then (or wiring...I'd check wiring first).
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
However, I am now concerned about my engine's ability to produce blue smoke. I found that if I let it idle for about 5 minutes after its warmed up and then suddenly increase the RPMs it makes a lot of blue smoke. For the smog test they do an idle test and then sudden increase to 2500 RPM and I get the smoke every time. I know I'm burning oil, but what does it sound like the problem is? Worn rings, worn valve guides, or other? It doesn't smoke driving down the road normally, only after a period of idle.
Tioga76
1976 Tioga w/ Dodge 360
Have you checked the float level on the carb?
I had the float adjusted correctly last summer and I haven't driven it much since then. Never hurts to check though.
Leeann wrote:
Valve stem seals.
Have you checked the float level on the carb?
Valve stem seals.
Have you checked the float level on the carb?
Yes, definitely valve stem seals. The valve stem seals in the Mopar small block engines tended to break down rather quickly, and it appears to be more a case of age rather than mileage. The seals in the 318 in my '77 B200 went out after about five years.
You don't necessarily need to do a complete valve job. (In fact, I'd recommend against it.) Instead, you should be able to simply replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads or the valves. Use compressed air to keep the valves in place and borrow, rent, or buy one of the spring compressors that work with the head still on the engine. That way, you only have to remove the valve covers and don't risk reconditioned valves causing ring blowby.
Your symptoms sound very similar to what I experienced with my B200 and all it really needed was the seal replaced. (I wish I'd know that was all it needed, instead of having a complete valve job done.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Tioga76 wrote:
Is it difficult to repair/replace the valve stem seals? I'm an okay mechanic but I haven't done much in the way of internal engine repairs.
I had the float adjusted correctly last summer and I haven't driven it much since then. Never hurts to check though.
Is it difficult to repair/replace the valve stem seals? I'm an okay mechanic but I haven't done much in the way of internal engine repairs.
I had the float adjusted correctly last summer and I haven't driven it much since then. Never hurts to check though.
The float could be filled with gas; happens to old ones. That would make any adjustment moot.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
You don't necessarily need to do a complete valve job. (In fact, I'd recommend against it.) Instead, you should be able to simply replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads or the valves. Use compressed air to keep the valves in place and borrow, rent, or buy one of the spring compressors that work with the head still on the engine. That way, you only have to remove the valve covers and don't risk reconditioned valves causing ring blowby.
You don't necessarily need to do a complete valve job. (In fact, I'd recommend against it.) Instead, you should be able to simply replace the valve stem seals without removing the heads or the valves. Use compressed air to keep the valves in place and borrow, rent, or buy one of the spring compressors that work with the head still on the engine. That way, you only have to remove the valve covers and don't risk reconditioned valves causing ring blowby.
Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear that I don't need a complete valve job because I don't have the $$ for that this year. I'm curious though... I've heard that using unleaded gas on these old engines can be harmful to the valves. My owners manual says to use leaded gas only, so I add a lead substitute to the gas sometimes but I'm not consistent with it. I'm not old enough to even remember leaded gas - does the use of unleaded harm the engine?
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
And seriously? Not old enough? I had the option to put leaded or unleaded in my first car...that I got when I was 20. The first year I owned the car, unleaded disappeared. Wasn't a problem for my little '81 Honda Accord, but a coworker with a 70s Ford big block was bummed.