| Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
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Posted By: steve93101
on 02/24/09 04:12pm
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Thanks for the replies so far. I know about the "lean burn" and I believe that is on the early 1975 1976 Chrysler rigs.I have a '78 that has the normal pollution stuff. It has a bad engine, and ugly corrugated aluminum sides, always chasing leaks... so I am probably going to upgrade to a Lazy Daze or American Clipper. I am looking for a 19'-21' rig max, and prefer rear queen bed layout. So from I gather I might squeeze some more MPG from a non-lean burn 360 over a 440. The other rig I was considering is a later 80's Minnie Winnie or similar, something with fuel injection and a Chev 350 or Ford 3xxx. I guess the FI is a giant leap forward, any one get much better MPG with FI? I drove a Chevy with what I remember to be a P3 chassis or something. It seemed a bit more nimble and lighter than the old Dodge B300. What I am getting at is ( short of an underpowered Toyota "6") what is the best bang for the buck MPG wise in a 20 foot long RV, V8 engine... I have a budget up to 5K ?
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Posted By: Jer&Ger
on 02/24/09 06:17pm
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I have a "77" Dodge MB300 with the 360 and I average between 8-9 mpg. I've heard that the fuel injected models have the advantage of automatically adjusting for elevation and being able to use ethenol, but I'm sure about it....Jerry
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis
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Posted By: Kendas
on 02/24/09 08:02pm
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
Kendas - I usually have the folks in the hobby shop hook up their engine analyzer when I'm tweaking the carb. (On-post and on-base auto hobby shops are one of the advantages to being a military retiree.) They don't like dragging the analyzer out but do it to get me to stop cussing and swearing.
Personally, I believe the simplest design that works is best. I'd chuck the TQ and replace it with an Edelbrock. Griff, I'm not sure I trust the auto hobby here at DM... Last time I was there they didn't understand that you don't need to open up the rear end of a 70's era LTD to remove a rear axle. Of course they same guys tried to press out the bearing on that axle without wrapping it in rags too. I corrected them and saved a few ankles when the bearing came apart.
As for the carb... Unless someone gives me one, it ain't going to happen. I've got enough problems having to replace the instrument cluster on my daily driver.
Looks like I've got enough info from you all now to get this thing past emissions one more time.
Thanks all!
Ken
1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures
USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.
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Posted By: overdrive75
on 02/25/09 04:20am
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I understand this emissions thing, but some states are just over the top. The used to have it in MI but eventually they did a way with it. What was found was that every car that was passing was going to pass and that the ones that were failing there were to many work arounds, like if it is going to cost more to repair to make it pass, you got an exemption and never had to be tested again. And come on on a Motorhome, it should fall in the same catagory as the medium duty trucks, I mean after all most class C's even the smallest are in that Category based on GVW alone, not to mention GCW. I mean I am all for doing my part, yet at the same time these are old carb'd motors in "heavy" vehicles, they are going to emit some bad stuff, no way around it. It's part of the lifestyle. Heck with these old motors running on good fuel (no ethenol straight gas) they would probably pass just fine as that is what the motors were designed to run on. Now with this government mandated E-10 crap, that my be just enough to get them to fail. It's all just a bunch of BS for the government to get more money from us.
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Posted By: ALnCORY
on 02/25/09 08:43am
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"It's all just a bunch of BS for the government to get more money from us."
Amen !
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
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Posted By: Leeann
on 02/25/09 09:02am
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^ double amen!
Though I don't have to bring my rig for emissions testing...the benefits of Historic plates (and/or being older than 1977).
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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Posted By: Kendas
on 02/25/09 11:18am
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Okay people... Let's drop the argument on emissions. It matters not in this thread and political BS will get the thread closed. I'll live with it because of where I'm at and I don't know if historic plates on a '78 will exempt me.
Now let's get back to talking about Dodge class Cs (yes Griff and company can stay since they are "honorary" class Cers).
Ken
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Posted By: ALnCORY
on 02/25/09 12:34pm
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OK Kendas, back to old dodge class c discussion. I am going to change out the plug wires, dist. cap and rotor and coil as I have observed most of you have done.(I have already changed out the plugs) Any advise on a specific type or brand that works better than other. Mine is a 1974 w/ 360.
Thanks,
A.
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Posted By: Kendas
on 02/25/09 01:17pm
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Not sure which is "better" Alan but the ones I just put on say they're AC Delco cap and rotor and they replaced the same which worked without problems for 2 1/2 years.
Wires were replaced by the last PO and are 7mm silicon resistor (don't know the brand name off the top of my head) and also seem to work fine. Plugs are "stock" champion and don't need replaced yet as they were done the same time the wires were.
Ken
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Posted By: Leeann
on 02/25/09 01:35pm
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My wires are 7mm silicon resistor (and I, too, don't remember what brand), plugs are Champion truck plugs and the cap & rotor are Standard Motor Blue Streak, as recommended by a friend who only owns 70s Dodge trucks. I don't remember what brand of coil I used; it was just what they had in stock.
I did all of these 2 years ago and they are still good (I checked last weekend).
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