Ours isn't in front of the radiator, either. It's off to the side, behind the grille on the passenger side. Since we have an A (as do you), there was plenty of room to do it that way.
I'm not sure there's enough room to do it that way on a C, though.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
New carb/throttle body injection is NOT in the budget so don't even go there please.
Thanks,
Ken
1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures
USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.
The bf wants to know what gap you're using on the plugs (and whether you're using a cold or hot plug) and says that despite being a female canine to change, you need to change them and the wires as well (they're resistor wires) along with the cap/rotor/PCV valve.
Also, have you checked the coil? Ours was weak and needed to be replaced. And how about thermostat? Have you ever replaced that? Some idiot put a 160º t-stat in ours...when it calls for a 185º stat.
I'll see if a couple of independents that are around here have the floats.
Plug wires are 7mm resistor and were changed along with the plugs (Champion OBL9Y .35 gap) just before I got the RV 3 years ago (I have the receipt and trust the PO as I've known her since we were both was fifteen). Coil is something I forgot about.. We used to have problems with them going "bad" on Uncle Sam's warehouse tugs (225 slant six) in the 70's.
I'll look at changing the thermostat too as I can tell you by the temp gauge that it not a 185º stat or if it even has one. Temp stays low (less than a quarter) until a heavy load is put on it so I'll bet it's not even there (don't ask me why people in the SW do this, it doesn't help keep and engine cool). That's going to be "fun" too... Housing sits partially under the the York compressor sitting at 45º above it for the aftermarket chassis A/C.
Ken
Malcolm
I am considering buying a California smog engine 1976 American Clipper 20 footer. The owner claims 12 miles per gallon.Is that realistic, seems
like B.S. to me.
Anyway , looking at similar Dodge B300 late 70's early 80's RV's. wonder if a 360 engine would get a little bit better MPG. If it matters I will not be towing.Anyone have personal experience and care to comment on what kind of MPG they get?
We originally had a '75 Class C with a California-emissions (ie lean burn) 360 and the poor thing could hardly get out of its own way, let alone anyone else's. That's why we bought the 20' with 440...without lean burn crap.
steve93101 wrote:
360 vs 440 Gas Mileage?
The owner claims 12 miles per gallon.Is that realistic, seems like B.S. to me.
Anyway , looking at similar Dodge B300 late 70's early 80's RV's. wonder if a 360 engine would get a little bit better MPG. If it matters I will not be towing.Anyone have personal experience and care to comment on what kind of MPG they get?
360 vs 440 Gas Mileage?
The owner claims 12 miles per gallon.Is that realistic, seems like B.S. to me.
Anyway , looking at similar Dodge B300 late 70's early 80's RV's. wonder if a 360 engine would get a little bit better MPG. If it matters I will not be towing.Anyone have personal experience and care to comment on what kind of MPG they get?
My 1970 Explorer 23' Class A (on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis) got 12 to 14 MPG before I tore it apart. 318-3 engine, two barrel Carter BBD, stock single exhaust, Loadflite A727 automatic, and Dana 70 rear axle with 4.10 ratio. It had a reasonable amount of horsepower and torque. (Remember, you'll be driving a fairly large, loaded truck ... you can't expect sports car performance.) Most of the time, I was passing small cars going up Turnagain pass and didn't have to downshift until the last 1/4 mile.
Of course, that was when I started adopting the "Enjoy the trip as well as the destination" philosophy.
When I started planning on MLP, an expert, who's opinion I trust, recommended staying with the 318, replacing the Carter BBD with a small four barrel, and switching to headers with dual exhaust. Based on that recommendation, I'm going with a early '70s 340 intake manifold, a Carter AFB four barrel, Thorley Tri-Y headers, and fairly large dual exhaust. I would have gone with an Edelbrock intake except for issues with aluminum at subzero temperatures. (At -30 and below, the difference in expansion between aluminum and steel can cause problems.) BTW, the Edelbrock carburetors are essentially modern versions of the Carter AFB.
With all due respect to Leadfoot Leeann, I personally I think most motorhomes are overpowered. In Leeann's case, it makes sense because she (and her BF) are pulling a trailer loaded with boats, spare engines, tools, and other stuff needed for competing in boat races. For most people, the big block engines are more than they need, unless they're really, really, really into stoplight-to-stoplight drag racing.
As for the much-hated lean burn system, I think politicians and automotive engineers needed to cross their arms, grasp their earlobes, and pull firmly until they heard a loud pop. California politicians and bureaucrats, in particular, had (and have) their heads so far up their butts it's amazing they're able to see anything.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Spectramac wrote:
The hot ticket to pass emissions up here was always to pull the pcv valve out of the valve cover. As long as they didn't have to do an under hood check it worked like a charm.
The hot ticket to pass emissions up here was always to pull the pcv valve out of the valve cover. As long as they didn't have to do an under hood check it worked like a charm.
Changing the oil and replacing the PCV valve are two of the things we do to make sure we pass emissions tests. The emissions testers up here do an under-the-hood inspection so there's not many tricks we can use to fool them.
Kendas - I usually have the folks in the hobby shop hook up their engine analyzer when I'm tweaking the carb. (On-post and on-base auto hobby shops are one of the advantages to being a military retiree.) They don't like dragging the analyzer out but do it to get me to stop cussing and swearing.
Personally, I believe the simplest design that works is best. I'd chuck the TQ and replace it with an Edelbrock.