I have seen several mentions of fuel pumps here. Do these old Dodges come with electric fuel pumps normally, or are these all after-market addons? I assume a fuel pump will prevent vapor lock problems?
* This post was edited 10/07/08 09:04pm by TreeSeeker *
Tommy
Thanks a ton for double checking that for me. Everywhere I've been seems to only have the FBR with the large bead looking texture you mentioned, and I agree... looks terrible. Having a manufacturer will really help in tracking down some panels... that appears to be what I'm looking for, but can't find.
So... again... thanks. I have to go by Homedepot tomorrow to pick up the Formica I ordered. I will look for the panels again then.
tommyj3 wrote:
Just a quick question. What octane gasoline do you guy's and gal's use in your Dodge 440's. After mine has be run for awhile and up to operating temp then shut-off it is very hard to restart. I have been using 89 octane, should I go higher.
Just a quick question. What octane gasoline do you guy's and gal's use in your Dodge 440's. After mine has be run for awhile and up to operating temp then shut-off it is very hard to restart. I have been using 89 octane, should I go higher.
Only two things are PROBABLY wrong-
A) today's reformulated ethanol based fuels don't like our old engines
B) you may be too accustom to EFI and need to "re-learn" how to start older engines.
I see this question a lot from people who've grown up driving cars from the late 80's onward.
No biggy, just practice!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
TreeSeeker wrote:
I have seen several mentions of fuel pumps here. Do these old Dodges come with electric fuel pumps normally, or are these all after-market addons? I assume a fuel pump will prevent vapor lock problems?
I have seen several mentions of fuel pumps here. Do these old Dodges come with electric fuel pumps normally, or are these all after-market addons? I assume a fuel pump will prevent vapor lock problems?
They came with mechanical fuel pumps. We removed ours and put 3 electric fuel pumps in, one for each tank, because we added 2 tanks and that was the easy/cheap way to do the selector stuff.
It does have the bonus of helping with vapor lock issues (not eliminating; helping) since electric pumps push rather than pull. We got pumps with higher PSI ratings than we needed, then put a fuel pressure regulator up at the front where all 3 lines come together to bring it back to the correct pressure. This ensures proper fuel delivery no matter what the conditions - hot, high altitude, mountain climbing...
We re-routed the fuel line, since it no longer has to go under the motor to the front for the fuel pump, then up and back to the carb. It takes a more direct route now, with a route on the outside of the frame rail to keep it away from the exhaust manifold and put it in a little bit of the airflow for extra cooling, then straight up to the carb. The bf had to make that change after we had a few issues going up a 6500+' mountain when it was about 95ยบ outside - said it was pretty much a doh! moment when he realized where he'd first run the fuel line.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
I hope your Homedepot has what you want. At mine both types of panel, the one I used and the large bead stuff are together in the same place, along with the mouldings and the hardboard tile looking stuff. Hope yours is the same.
Good luck... A.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
Has anyone had a problem with exhaust fumes in the cab. I know the seal on my doghouse needs replaced,which I will do when I put down new carpet but I have driven other vans with poor doghouse seals and never had such exhaust smell. It also seems to accumulate in the rear bath as well when on the road. I assume I must have an exhaust leak but don't hear any around the manifolds. I know the muffler needs replaced as the bottom is rusted out. Anyway, just looking for any advise from someone who has had and solved this problem. I haven't really tackled it seriously yet but its time to figure it out. thanks ... A.
You may have a leak around your heater box. The gaskets on mine are completely disinegrated. You can tell if you are getting hot air into the cab when the heater is turned off. My cab was sweltering even when it wasn't hot outside.
From an engineering view, the gasket is an awful design--destined to fail. Also, it looks like you have to at least remove the radiator to remove the heater box to replace the gaskets.
A mechanic friend suggested using a special high-temp tape to seal all around the outside of the heater box. But, it looks like it would be impossible to do given the complex shape of the box and the tight quarters. I haven't decided what to do yet. In the meantime I have just plugged the heater outlets inside the cab.
I also found a number of unsealed holes in the firewall where wiring and heater hoses, etc. went through. I sealed all these using butyl tape.
If you travel with the window open in the rear bath, you may have exhaust getting sucked in due to negative pressure behind the vehicle. Try closing the window and see if that helps.
Has anyone else fixed the heater box leak and how?