Doug in CA wrote:
My 76 Dodge "Concoure" has 2 drain valves. The forward most being the grey water and the rear one black water. I have the operating instructions for it if you think it will help.
Mine has two tanks and two valves... When I originally got the RV they were separate but they face each other. The 3" (black) had a swivel elbow on the end and the 1.5" (grey) ended at the gate valve. It is still legal to dump grey water in NFs as long as you don't dump within 200ft of any body water so I ass/u/me that one of the POs changed the grey valve and just did not put an end on it. I ordered the 3"-1.5" "Y" valve assembly from PPL and added some black ABS pipe to the grey line so the two now connect.My 76 Dodge "Concoure" has 2 drain valves. The forward most being the grey water and the rear one black water. I have the operating instructions for it if you think it will help.
Ken
* This post was edited 09/23/08 10:11pm by Kendas *
1978 21ft Tioga Dodge 440 Motor,
4.5kw Generac and 80 watts Solar
1984 Goldwing Interstate (Daily driver)
Misc Things I've done to my RV pictures
USAF Retired
To Err is human... To Forgive is not SAC Policy.
ALnCORY wrote:
I have a uni-tank as well... I think alot of these older smaller C's have one tank...
I have a uni-tank as well... I think alot of these older smaller C's have one tank...
I don't think my 1976 Dodge Sportsman has a gauge where you can tell how much water is in the holding tank etc. If this is the case, how do I tell when the waste water level is sufficent enough to dump. I have heard you should wait until it is 2/3 full before dumping.
Sorry for all the questions. Thanks,
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds
goreds2 wrote:
I don't think my 1976 Dodge Sportsman has a gauge where you can tell how much water is in the holding tank etc. If this is the case, how do I tell when the waste water level is sufficent enough to dump. I have heard you should wait until it is 2/3 full before dumping.
Sorry for all the questions. Thanks,
ALnCORY wrote:
I have a uni-tank as well... I think alot of these older smaller C's have one tank...
I have a uni-tank as well... I think alot of these older smaller C's have one tank...
I don't think my 1976 Dodge Sportsman has a gauge where you can tell how much water is in the holding tank etc. If this is the case, how do I tell when the waste water level is sufficent enough to dump. I have heard you should wait until it is 2/3 full before dumping.
Sorry for all the questions. Thanks,
Look in the toilet -- virtually all are mounted above the black water tank and empty directly into the tank.
And, yes, you should wait until the black water tank is over half full before emptying ... 2/3 to 3/4 full is best. Even when you're in a full service campsite with plumbing hookups, you should keep the black water valve closed until the tank is at least half full.
No need to say "sorry" ... all of us have had questions that were answered by others and we're just passing on the favor; in time, it'll be your turn to answer other's questions.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
Yeah don't worry about asking lots of questions, I am still asking lots of questions because I haven't figured it all out yet either. My rig doesn't have a guage for waste tanks either, but like griff said the toilet connects directly to the top of the tank.
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
Kendas wrote:
Ken
Doug in CA wrote:
My 76 Dodge "Concoure" has 2 drain valves. The forward most being the grey water and the rear one black water. I have the operating instructions for it if you think it will help.
Mine has two tanks and two valves... When I originally got the RV they were separate but they face each other. The 3" (black) had a swivel elbow on the end and the 1.5" (grey) ended at the gate valve. It is still legal to dump grey water in NFs as long as you don't dump within 200ft of any body water so I ass/u/me that one of the POs changed the grey valve and just did not put an end on it. I ordered the 3"-1.5" "Y" valve assembly from PPL and added some black ABS pipe to the grey line so the two now connect.My 76 Dodge "Concoure" has 2 drain valves. The forward most being the grey water and the rear one black water. I have the operating instructions for it if you think it will help.
Ken
I just looked at my 78 Tioga tank set-up. No way to tell if PO did a mod. The two tanks have seperate read outs on the panel. Two cut off valves, one for each tank before the main outlet. I think 78 was perhaps a large advance year. I had no knowledge of these things before buying. Just got lucky. The 200' rule is also new to me. I think most folks dump gray water (shouldn't say this) at night. This is what I notice in State Parks.
Floyd
thanks.... Al
That's what I used!
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
Has anyone replaced the house window weatherstripping? It is called "Pile Weatherstrip for Jolousie Windows." Mine is completely falling apart. I found a source for it here:
Vintage Trailer Supply
There are two sizes listed and the above one fits my 79 Fleetwood Jamboree (I just received it and checked). However, it does require removing the entire window frame from the RV and then dismantling the frame to get the sliding window out. It appears that in doing this you will also have to remove, or at least partially remove, the fixed window. I fear that removing the fixed window will damage the very old rubber seal and that I will end up having to replace that too. This is turning into a lot more work than I anticipated.
Has anyone done this before? Did you have to replace the rubber seal also? How hard was it, and would to attempt it if you had to do it now knowing what you learned? Where can I get the rubber seal and how expensive is it?
AlnCory wrote:
Question: I need to rebuild a cargo door. I have all the framing, I just need something to build the door out of. Any ideas for something that would be solid and water-proof. Its the door where my coach batteries go and where I assume a gen-set would be if I had one. I think the framing would allow for about 3/8" thickness or so. I haven't found anything at the building stores that I thought would work... plywood and paint just doesn't sound like a good idea and I can't think of anything else... anyone out there ever done this?
thanks.... Al
Question: I need to rebuild a cargo door. I have all the framing, I just need something to build the door out of. Any ideas for something that would be solid and water-proof. Its the door where my coach batteries go and where I assume a gen-set would be if I had one. I think the framing would allow for about 3/8" thickness or so. I haven't found anything at the building stores that I thought would work... plywood and paint just doesn't sound like a good idea and I can't think of anything else... anyone out there ever done this?
thanks.... Al
Al, go to a sheet metal shop and have them make one out of maybe 18 guage metal. They can cut and form to size. Should be pretty reasonable and will last forever, also make for easy mounting of hinges and so forth.....Jerry
Jerry & Gerry, our pets (dogs), Byron, Coco
1976 Monaco, 440 ci. Dodge Sportsman chassis