That's great advice to do the leak down and compression tests first. I will do that for sure! I'm not rushing into anything..been driving it this way for a couple years and I got a kid, and most of my money going to college. So I have to plan every "restoration" dollar.
Boondocker......The P.O. had a Q-Jet type carb on it.. The Edlebrock was a vast improvement over that. Electric choke, much more responsive. The TQ is probably great too, but I got no complaints with fuel delivery. I've also added an electric fuel pump back at the tank. Works great!
Retro Cruiser wrote:
I've also added an electric fuel pump back at the tank. Works great!
I've also added an electric fuel pump back at the tank. Works great!
You should install a "crash switch" that'll cut the pump's electricity in case of an accident. You can get one from a junkyard or from Ron Francis Wiring.
Check your PCV valve - if it's stuck, it could result in crankcase pressure that'll cause oil to be forced pass the rings into the cylinders.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
You cut MLP apart, so what are you going to use for window rubber?
I can't find Travco window seals to save my soul --which I offered to Satan in a swap for Travco parts and even he couldn't help. Guess all the Travco parts went to heaven...
Anyway. 2 windows plus the windshield seal are beyond hope or repair.
From the rr to the ACunit, I have Eternabond-ed and that's fine with no leaks. Except for the damn 14" vent, of course. But the front is leaking BAD.
The window rubbers are a different matter all together. Call a glass shop that does automotive windows as well as buildings. I'd bet you dollors for do-nuts that they'll have something that will work.
When I built my 64 Fury wagon, there were no reproduction rubbers made for the rear quater glass, and since I only found 3 other Fury wagons in 5 years, odds of getting a good used set were about 1 in a kazillion. My glass guy looked at it, measured it, pondered through his sources for a few days, and found that a CAT windshield rubber was exactly the correct size, and it worked!!! Sure, it wasn't a nice molded piece like the factory part, and he had to use some of that black butyl stuff in places, but it held the glass just fine with no leaks!
It's worth looking into anyway.
Eric
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
These people might help...
http://www.fixitrubber.com/index.htm
And these, too:
http://www.trimlok.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=16
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
Found drivers glass on eBay, fellow's also selling other Travco stuff.
Whatever he's got, I'll take it.....
You guys think of everything!
Trish Davis wrote:
Griff, I need your advice.
You cut MLP apart, so what are you going to use for window rubber?
Anyway. 2 windows plus the windshield seal are beyond hope or repair.
Griff, I need your advice.
You cut MLP apart, so what are you going to use for window rubber?
Anyway. 2 windows plus the windshield seal are beyond hope or repair.
Fixed or slider windows?
Leeann covered the windshield ... I plan to use the trimlock type two part gasket for the windshield. (That's what was there originally.)
JC Whitney has replacement rubber for the slider channels, as well as other places, listed under universal auto applications (not truck or rv).
They look to be the same construction as the windshield seal... a rubber seal with a "lock" center seal. That the same as yours?
JCWhitney, huh. No wonder my dad swore by them.