I just went through exactly the same thing.
Loud and HOT!
Do you have the dghse "hold down brackets?"
Many people dont have them. In 2 or 3 places around the dghse there are little brackets that get screwed into a plastic insert in the floor and they hook onto another little bracket-bar that is riveted onto the dghse. As you tighten it pulls the dghse down and seals it to the floor. I have 3. I replaced 2 from the JY, using a well placed screw and washer in the dghse itself because I was missing that part too but couldnt find it.
Also, the exact rubber seal for the dghse is still a dodge part. I have the number somewhere. It is not in the regular parts book, it is in the archives. I had to call multiple places to get the info. Nevertheless it is $60 or 80 dollars so i passed.
I looked everywhere for a replacement. It is basically door seal, but I couldnt find it anywhere except through dealers. No at auto body supply, auto supply, big box, online, even jc whitney didnt have it. My jeeps doorseal is almost a dead onl match so that is a good option at the JY. I actually just used for mine a $4 garage door seal over the old seal.
I replaced my carpet and the floor is thick so the extra width that comes out is a perfect match to seal the carper dowm around the dghse.
I was worried about heat issues, hence my search for oem, but it seems to be a non issue as the garage door seal hasnt melted yet!
The replacement of the carpet has made a big difference in sound and heat. I put 3 layers of felt, then a layer of foam/polyfill (from a bed or some thing I found) then an old ikea (but nice and thick) rug that i cut up as the carpet. It turned out very well. One piece and I was able to use the bound edge where needed.
I also changed out the loooooong tranny dipstick tube for a shorty. This gives a little more airflow and keeps the pass side cooler.
***1980 19' American Clipper 719F Luxur Van w/440***
I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!
1) she can be a bit of a dog on the big hills.
2) she's loud, my RPM is nearly 3000rpm @ 60mph. From what I understand this is about right. I will likely have to see if my doghouse seal is ok. Definitely have a bit of fumes in the cab.
3) she leaks tranny fluid when parked.
4) my alternator took a******as we got into the mountains. I though it was our battery since I made it 180 mile round trip without dying. A battery shop told me it was the alternator. I took the negative cable off while it was running and that killed it.
5) Pump/tank control panel wouldn't run from generator.
Here is first question. I called around about an alternator for the 440 motor. Double pulley. They had a number of options. Ranging from 50 amp to 120amp or so. Apparently there is quite a bit of difference in sizes. I would assume a motorhome would have a larger alternator. Does anyone know if there would be a standard sized alternator for a rig like mine. I assume I will have to just bite the bullet and pull the alternator and take it down to the parts store with me. Also what is the easiest way to get it off. Through the doghouse or from underhood/underneath?
Second question. Everything seemed to work fine when checking out the rig. We had it parked outside our garage to load and such. When we got up to the mountains and realized our battery was dead, I hooked up to the generator and added a charger. I charged my house batteries as well as my coach battery. While hooked up to the generator all outlets, lights, and furnace worked. The only thing that didn't was the water pump/water levels panel. After charging the batteries for a day all I could get was enough juice to see what the water levels were at. The pump wouldn't work either. When the rig is running everything on that panel works great. I haven't hooked it back up to shore power at home to see if everything works there. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be good. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Jeff N
Jeff N
78' Dodge Sportsman Beaver Big Sur 23' motorhome
69' Sportscraft Tent Trailer
98' Jeep TJ 4" Lift.. yada yada yada
It has a crease in the middle which helps the seal.
I think that I actually used a little spray adhesive also.
The seal does overlap onto the carpet a little.
This is ok because it is so thick.
I was originally going to trim the gdoor seal to be narrower, which could be done.
I will see if i have a pic.
Watch out charging the batteries too often, overcharging is what killed my house battery.
What do the numbers on your old alternator say?
Replace with a congruent alternator.
I work through the weekend, but I will check on monday to see if I can see the numbers.
RckyMtnTJ wrote:
Trish,
I work through the weekend, but I will check on monday to see if I can see the numbers.
Trish,
I work through the weekend, but I will check on monday to see if I can see the numbers.
Before you replace the alternator, check the voltage regulator.
When our system quit charging, we had Sears test it (because we had a Diehard battery). Their 'mechanic' did a half-ass check of the system and said I needed to replace the alternator and voltage regulator. I wasn't impressed with his attitude so I got a second opinion from a shop that specializes in automotive electrical systems. They did a two minute check and said the alternator was fine but the voltage regulator was shot. They installed a replacement for a total parts and labor cost of $7.95. That was in 1995 and the charging system was still working just fine when I started the rebuild a couple of years ago.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
RckyMtnTJ wrote:
That sounds alot like the test my "guy" gave me. He came out with one of the little hand held amp readers and told me the alternator was shot and I should change the regulator while I was at it. I was kinda thinking about heading down to another shop and getting a second opinion.
That sounds alot like the test my "guy" gave me. He came out with one of the little hand held amp readers and told me the alternator was shot and I should change the regulator while I was at it. I was kinda thinking about heading down to another shop and getting a second opinion.
Another option - some parts stores have a machine for testing the alternator ... I've had Schmuck's do it - when their machine wasn't broken - and NAPA. (Our NAPA is independently owned and has it's roots in a local parts store that was around for ages.)
There should be two or three wires, plus two bolts holding it in place ... take a picture before disconnecting so you know which wires go where and keep track of where the spacers are on the bolts, if there are any spacers.
Mopar alternators are actually quite robust ... I've put them through some rather obnoxious stress tests. It's usually the voltage regulator that goes bad ... especially if they have loose or weak connections.
Oh, yeah ... check your ground connections - they can be a real pain if loose or corroded. (Just ask Leeann.)
* This post was edited 10/21/07 12:02am by Griff in Fairbanks *
Since it was sucha beautiful day Sundy, I played a bit more on the fine tuning of my 360.
I can't seem to get more than 13"hg at warm idle. Might that indicate the timing chain kit shot? (stock 360 2v, 1972 D.O.M.)
The built up 360 in the old Power Wagon idled at 19"...
She ain't purdy, but at least she's slow!
