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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Posted By: glw on 10/12/07 11:00am

Leeann wrote:

Trish Davis wrote:

Leeann wrote:

Guess that's why we own classics, huh? [emoticon]

Here and I thought it's because I'm cheap.

Well, yeah. No slide-outs to break, no 50amp uh-ohs that would require a team of trained electricians for 7 days to figure out, no payments (my personal favorite), reasonable insurance rates, sensible engines out of steel, and all that.

Plus we are cool.


Exactly! Fewer moving parts (always good), motors we actually can work on (gee, what a thought), no computerized stuff, NO PAYMENTS, better insurance AND tags....Absolutely no difference in fuel mileage.

And we get looks everywhere we go [emoticon]


Don't forget the Dodge Part of all this!!! Wait'll we have a "Jamboree"! Everyone will think they just stepped out of a Time Machine........[emoticon]

Won't that be cool.........






Posted By: Leeann on 10/12/07 11:27am

glw wrote:


Don't forget the Dodge Part of all this!!! Wait'll we have a "Jamboree"! Everyone will think they just stepped out of a Time Machine........[emoticon]

Won't that be cool.........


I thought that part went without saying [emoticon]


'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo


Posted By: Trish Davis on 10/15/07 05:57am

Electrical.

Who's got a severely modified electrical system? Stock don't count.
And, man, I wish the Travco WAS stock ...

Talk to me like I'm stupid (frequently the case)and gently explain what the RV battery does and what the Engine battery does (and why my Travco ran fine off the RV battery).

Please don't talk to me about inverters or converters. I have a new one of each, they're nicely stored in the kitchen cabinets.


Posted By: Leeann on 10/15/07 06:32am

RV battery runs all the 12v stuff inside, like your 12v lights (the little suckers), the fan on the furnace, the water pump, etc. The engine battery runs your engine (yeah, I know: duh) and the dash accessories.

You might, however, have a switch somewhere that lets you start your engine from your RV battery, in case you've run the engine battery down too far. You might also have a bad battery isolator, which lets you charge both batteries from the alternator but doesn't let one discharging/discharged battery run the other one down.

Your current converter/charger might only be attached to your RV battery, so it's getting charged but not your engine battery. Quite possibly somewhere in your engine charging circuit you've got a wiring boo-boo. Or the alternator is dying...


Posted By: clockwork oranjaboom on 10/15/07 07:56am

Hi Trish;
I have a '78 American Clipper that had some creative electrical mods by the PO, mostly concerning the converter and genny wiring. Several members sent me docx, pdfs and ( most imprortantly) jpgs that helped.
I'd be happy to pay this forward to you if it would help.
dave


Posted By: Trish Davis on 10/15/07 08:08am

What Leeann said. It's engine can start from the RV battery.
There are switches to turn each battery On/Off.
Way home, I ran It off the RV battery, all was well. That was then...

Thankee, but I'll pass on the pdf's. I've got too much to deal with now,
No new information! *g*

Possibly overcharging or these batteries (Die Hard Marine) are not as "deep-cycle" as advertised. One minute and I'll post the link to batteries. We think we are familiar with them, we're not. Okay... I'm not.


Posted By: Trish Davis on 10/15/07 08:10am

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

Interesting read.


Posted By: ALnCORY on 10/15/07 09:20am

Can someone out there with the books let me know what the oil capacity is on my 74 dodge 360. I changed oil sat. and put in 5 quarts( this is what my 318 used to use 4quarts plus 1 for the filter) My oil dip stick only says "this side up to check oil" but there are no fill to markings. There is a small notch on one side, if this is fill to line my 5 quarts is not enough. 2nd problem, is there some kind of asbestos doghouse seal? The manifold on drivers side is right next to doghouse wall, there is a metal heat shield but right where doghouse hits the firewall there is a gap where rubber seal is gone. Anyway it gets hot as h***. Feels like my shoe is gonna melt, plus lets in engine order. Any ideas.. thanks .... Al


I don't think anyones dying statement ever contained the words "I wish I had spent more time in the office", so lets go somewhere!


Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks on 10/15/07 03:16pm

According to Chilton (first manual I grabbed - I can check others if you want), both the 318 and 360, from 1967 to 1987, used 6.0 quarts (5 + 1 for filter). In 1988, the capacity on both dropped to 5.0 quarts (4 + 1 for filter).

Replace the rubber seal on your doghouse -- that'll take care of a majority of your heat and odor problems. If I recall correctly, there's a metal shield between the exhaust manifold and the floorboards/doghouse. There should be an small (3/16" - 1/4") gap between the shield and the floorboards. If not, a PO (or stupid garage mechanic) may have bent it to get to the sparkplugs.

That small air gap does an amazing job of reducing the amount of heat transferred to the floorboards and doghouse. Still, I kinda remember the doghouse on my '77 B200 getting very warm also.

Check some of the hot rod magazines (especially Streetrodder) ... there's several types of high performance insulation used by hotrodders to solve this kind of problem. If you do go to some kind of insulation, be sure to maintain the heat shield air gap ... heated air flowing out of the air gap is how the heat shield works. If you fill the space with insulation, you'll simply trap the heat and aggravate your problem.


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A



Posted By: glw on 10/16/07 01:17am

ALnCORY,

I had this problem in my 77 Chinook. 1st trip out I about roasted my right leg..LOL. I replaced that rubber most of it went away. The rest of the heat was coming from the firewall area up under the dash. This appears to be from a few access holes the PO had exposed while recarpeting. I used some foil type insulator and closed them right off.

I also found what Griff mentioned on the shield for the exhaust, mine was bent all to Heck. Not sure if it was the shield or the rubber, but those fixes took care of my problem.

Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ


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