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Topic: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's? |
Posted By: Leeann
on 09/10/07 08:07pm
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Cenote wrote: ![]() So any drips of oil thta may be on or around this tree, are most likely coming from somewhere else? Yep. '73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo |
Posted By: Cenote
on 09/11/07 06:44pm
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Well, I am still tryingto track down my leak/moisture. It seems to be the worst in the area under the carb and the mount the carb sits on. It may just be collecting in that area though... Another question for all our guru's here: Is the doghouse seal (floor seal) an actual part or is it just door seal? Looks like wide door seal. Mine is old and hard, needs replaced. ![]() ***1980 19' American Clipper 719F Luxur Van w/440*** ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/11/07 06:59pm
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Cenote wrote: ![]() Well, I am still tryingto track down my leak/moisture. It seems to be the worst in the area under the carb and the mount the carb sits on. It may just be collecting in that area though... Does the moisture appear to be oil, gasoline, or water? Cenote wrote: ![]() Another question for all our guru's here: Is the doghouse seal (floor seal) an actual part or is it just door seal? Looks like wide door seal. Mine is old and hard, needs replaced. On Class B's and Class C's, I believe the seal is an actual Mopar part. On Class A's, it could be residential door/window seal or a generic automobile weather stripping. Regardless, the best solution is whatever works for you. I'd try J.C. Whitney, they've got a lot of weatherstripping, both OEM-style and generic. (Yes, my DSL is back ... but I got flooded with work, besides the backlog catch-up.) 1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year) 1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in. 1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A ![]() |
Posted By: Leeann
on 09/11/07 07:52pm
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Yay! DSL beats dialup any day (and twice on Sunday) ![]() So hurry up and catch up already, willya? Well, after 24 hours of rain, the leak fixes we did have held. All is good ![]() And my back felt better today than it has in 3 weeks (and no meds!). So I think I'm good to stop supervising and start working again. |
Posted By: Cenote
on 09/11/07 08:13pm
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote: ![]() Does the moisture appear to be oil, gasoline, or water? Sorry to not be specific. Definetly oil. Long term, but very minimal amount. Manageable, but I want to know where its from. Turns out the doghouse seal for a '79 is still a stocked Mopar part. $65.00! I think that I can find something for cheaper. Griff, wanna check Spenards or PayNPack for some weatherstripping for me? ![]() |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/11/07 08:20pm
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Cenote wrote: ![]() Sorry to not be specific. Definetly oil. Long term, but very minimal amount. Manageable, but I want to know where its from. Turns out the doghouse seal for a '79 is still a stocked Mopar part. $65.00! I think that I can find something for cheaper. Griff, wanna check Spenards or PayNPack for some weatherstripping for me? ![]() My guess is a slight leak around the valve covers. Check J.C. Whitney for seal ... they may have an OEM equivalent for less. Spenards - sure, wanna pay mileage for the 60 mile roundtrip? PayNPak is long gone ... if I remember correctly, Carr's bought 'em out and that kind of stuff disappeared when Safeway bought Carr's |
Posted By: glw
on 09/11/07 09:09pm
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[quote=Griff in Fairbanks][quote=Cenote]Turns out the doghouse seal for a '79 is still a stocked Mopar part. $65.00!
I think that I can find something for cheaper.[/quote]
Hey ya all, everyone been pretty active here tonight....:)
I just re-did my doghouse with some 2" insulation for a house air conditioning unit. Stuck on really well after a good cleaning and fit like a charm. Only cost $3.98. Not sure if you want original, but t his did the job on mine cheap and easy.....:D
Gary Webb
Phoenix, AZ Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored. ![]() |
Posted By: Cenote
on 09/11/07 09:49pm
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Just kidding Griff...I grew up right behind Chena Lakes...used to shop at Market Basket. Dont know how long you've been in the area... JC Whitney for sure, but I think that my local body shop may have something equiv. Actually, I am pretty sure that I do have a slight leak around the inside rear corner of the drivers side valve cover. Covers are new and clean, gasket looks new. Tiny bit of weeping at the corner. I have cleaned and will see if it reoccurs. The leak would be to the rear of the moist area though but I am sure it could travel forward and collect under there. |
Posted By: Griff in Fairbanks
on 09/11/07 09:59pm
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Cenote wrote: ![]() Actually, I am pretty sure that I do have a slight leak around the inside rear corner of the drivers side valve cover. Covers are new and clean, gasket looks new. Tiny bit of weeping at the corner. I have cleaned and will see if it reoccurs. The leak would be to the rear of the moist area though but I am sure it could travel forward and collect under there. Don't tighten down on the valve cover bolts too much, especially if they're the OEM stamped tin covers. If you do, you risk warping the flange and you'll never get them to seal right. (A PO may have done so, causing your present leak.) If everything's in good shape, I use hi-tack gasket sealer on the valve cover gasket. (That's the same trick I used to build a shovelhead that didn't leak.) If not, try RTV and cross your fingers. BTW - been in Alaska (Eagle River) since 1980 and the Fairbanks area since 1996. |
Posted By: Cenote
on 09/11/07 10:37pm
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glw, thanks...I am looking for the rubber seal on the floor that is inbetween the floor and the edge of the doghouse, not insulation. It looks like door seal or weatherstripping. I have just put a second layer of the cheapo "foil bubble wrap" that the PO left for me. Dont think that it will really do much more. My problem is that I have a copper maybe 3/4" propane line that travels right next to my pass-side valve cover for a propane engine conversion. This pipe runs right along the doghouse and gets very hot! I think that it will melt the cheap stuff. I will try it but I think that I will move to a layer or two of dynamat. Anyone know of a good THIN metal pipe insulation that wont melt sitting on top of my engine? |
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