Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Page  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 837  
Prev  |  Next
PolCat-76-Avion

De Pere, Wis

New Member

Joined: 09/18/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 07:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

New member here! Just joined the rv.net site. We recently bought a 1976 Dodge Avion 22 foot rv. MB400 chassis 440 engine. It is in really good shape except that a previous owner painted it with a brush.
[image]

[image]

Now that it is getting colder I tried to slide the temperature selector to heat but nothing happened. The wire was disconnected from the valve in the heater hose. The valve does work the cable doesn't move. How do I get to the back of the heater control part of the dash?

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

Senior Member

Joined: 06/27/2017

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 08:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

New member here! Just joined the rv.net site. We recently bought a 1976 Dodge Avion 22 foot rv. MB400 chassis 440 engine. It is in really good shape except that a previous owner painted it with a brush.
[image]

[image]

Now that it is getting colder I tried to slide the temperature selector to heat but nothing happened. The wire was disconnected from the valve in the heater hose. The valve does work the cable doesn't move. How do I get to the back of the heater control part of the dash?


Great looking rig! In order to have easy access to the cable, you have to remove center portion of the dash. In my case I was lucky, because our MB300 was not ordered with factory A/C; Monaco installed an aftermarket unit from ARA that was self-contained in a plastic housing....removing the housing gave me full access to the heater components, which was nice because the ducts were completely rotted.

My cable was frozen too, but in my case it was the valve that sits on the heater core that was completely rusted up. If your valve is in good shape, take care of it, because IF you can get a new one, you're going to pay through the nose for it. I was able to find a NOS unit, but it set me back $125.

What I would do is disconnect the cable at the valve and try sliding it back and forth to free it. Shoot some WD-40 into the cable sheath and slide it some more. That should take care of your problem.

Good luck.


Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

Senior Member

Joined: 06/27/2017

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 08:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RvFNG76 wrote:

Ok brakes done axle seals done bearings done pinion seal done just finished draining out the gear oil that looked like chocolate milk mixed with garlic mud. Next question is what grade grade oil as it is a limited slip. I do have 3 quarts of 75w90 conventional limited slip oil. Will it work or what's everyone running I've heard the Dana 70 recommends 80w90.


Sorry for not responding sooner to this, I never got the email notification that there was a new post to the thread. When I redid the bearings on our axle, I used Valvoline SynPower 75W140, which is what the Dodge dealership used in my '01 3500 Ram CTD. The motorhome adds a fair amount of weight to the chassis, so the axle needs all the protection it can get, especially if it's getting constant use. The downside is that it's $12.99/qt.

PolCat-76-Avion

De Pere, Wis

New Member

Joined: 09/18/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 10:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 wrote:



Great looking rig! In order to have easy access to the cable, you have to remove center portion of the dash. In my case I was lucky, because our MB300 was not ordered with factory A/C; Monaco installed an aftermarket unit from ARA that was self-contained in a plastic housing....removing the housing gave me full access to the heater components, which was nice because the ducts were completely rotted.

My cable was frozen too, but in my case it was the valve that sits on the heater core that was completely rusted up. If your valve is in good shape, take care of it, because IF you can get a new one, you're going to pay through the nose for it. I was able to find a NOS unit, but it set me back $125.

What I would do is disconnect the cable at the valve and try sliding it back and forth to free it. Shoot some WD-40 into the cable sheath and slide it some more. That should take care of your problem.

Good luck.


I can slide the wire into the cable but the slide on the dash does not move. I am thinking it is off the slide or broken off the slide.
Thanks

[image]

* This post was edited 09/18/19 11:02am by PolCat-76-Avion *

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

Senior Member

Joined: 06/27/2017

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:



I can slide the wire into the cable but the slide on the dash does not move. I am thinking it is off the slide or broken off the slide.
Thanks

[image]


I didn’t even think about the fact that factory A/C controls would be different from non- A/C MB’s. Do you have the factory service manual? If you don’t, invest the money; it will pay for itself in spades.

PolCat-76-Avion

De Pere, Wis

New Member

Joined: 09/18/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 01:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I took out the radio and was able to access the controls. Looks like someone else was in there, white wire tie holding cable in place and the wire is broken. It's a real bugger to get the control loose let alone out. Looks like I will be putting a "choke cable" through the dash and then to the valve. I have a manual for 1976 B100, B200 B300 but not much looks like the MB400. Doesn't even call out the 440 motor only goes to the 318.

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

Senior Member

Joined: 04/21/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 01:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:


I can slide the wire into the cable but the slide on the dash does not move. I am thinking it is off the slide or broken off the slide.
Thanks

[image]

You're going to need to pull the control panel, located above the ignition switch. Usually one or two screws on the bottom or sides. Careful, the top is usually held in place by a tab on the panel that goes behind the dash sheet metal. After the screws are out, pull the bottom of the control panel a little bit, then the panel downward a bit to release the tab for the dash. (I've seen people break that tab.)

Look for corrosion or gummy lubricate. A bit of PB Blaster or Kroil, allowed time to work, will free it. (Spray cans can get messy so I sometimes spray on a piece of scrap metal and pick it up with a cotton tipped swab to apply it.) It may take a day or three for the PB Blaster or Kroil, applied repeatedly, to free the slider.

Once it's free, clean with brake cleaner. Re-lubricate, preferably with white lithium grease, and reassemble.

Do NOT use electronic contact cleaner! That "attacks" plastic, causing it to disintegrate.

Go slow and don't force things.

If you get stumped, yell and post pictures.

Note: WD-40 really isn't a penetrating oil or a lubricant. It's meant to inhibit corrosion by displacing moisture. (WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th formulation attempt.)


1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A


StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

Senior Member

Joined: 06/27/2017

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 01:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

I took out the radio and was able to access the controls. Looks like someone else was in there, white wire tie holding cable in place and the wire is broken. It's a real bugger to get the control loose let alone out. Looks like I will be putting a "choke cable" through the dash and then to the valve. I have a manual for 1976 B100, B200 B300 but not much looks like the MB400. Doesn't even call out the 440 motor only goes to the 318.


You might want to see if Mopar put out a service manual supplement. My MB300 is a 1975, and the service manual I have to use is actually a 1974/1975 service manual, and Mopar printed a 1975 service manual supplement to address any changes for the ‘75 model year. I also have a 1978 service manual and I’m pretty sure it lists the 440. I’m betting the MB400 was lumped in with the heavy duty trucks and is listed in one of those service manuals.

Griff in Fairbanks

AK

Senior Member

Joined: 04/21/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 01:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FYI -- between September 25th and October 4th, I will out of contact and unavailable.

PolCat-76-Avion

De Pere, Wis

New Member

Joined: 09/18/2019

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 09/18/19 02:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:


You're going to need to pull the control panel, located above the ignition switch. Usually one or two screws on the bottom or sides. Careful, the top is usually held in place by a tab on the panel that goes behind the dash sheet metal. After the screws are out, pull the bottom of the control panel a little bit, then the panel downward a bit to release the tab for the dash. (I've seen people break that tab.)

Look for corrosion or gummy lubricate. A bit of PB Blaster or Kroil, allowed time to work, will free it. (Spray cans can get messy so I sometimes spray on a piece of scrap metal and pick it up with a cotton tipped swab to apply it.) It may take a day or three for the PB Blaster or Kroil, applied repeatedly, to free the slider.

Once it's free, clean with brake cleaner. Re-lubricate, preferably with white lithium grease, and reassemble.

Do NOT use electronic contact cleaner! That "attacks" plastic, causing it to disintegrate.

Go slow and don't force things.

If you get stumped, yell and post pictures.

Note: WD-40 really isn't a penetrating oil or a lubricant. It's meant to inhibit corrosion by displacing moisture. (WD-40 = Water Displacement, 40th formulation attempt.)


From the backside there are 2 speed nuts that hold the control panel to the face of it through the dash. The control can not be pulled out the front because it is bigger than the hole, only the face plate after 1 more of those speed nuts are removed. That is where I stopped and fought to get those push buttons back through the holes in the face plate.
I picked up a choke cable from Autozone for 8$ drilled a hole right along side of the control panel in the dash fed it through the rubber grommet that the original was in trimmed to length and attached it to the valve. Bring on the colder weather [emoticon]
Thanks for your insight on where I may find a manual.

* This post was edited 09/18/19 02:41pm by PolCat-76-Avion *

Reply to Topic  |  Subscribe  |  Print Page  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 837  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes

 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Class C Motorhomes


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2025 CWI, Inc. © 2025 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.