TreeSeeker wrote:

Ok, now it sounds like you are good to go. Don't forget to stock up on spare fuses, for both the fuse panel and the converter.

StingrayL82 wrote:

In other words, could not having the ground lug on that 10/3 cord cause a reverse polarity condition or some other issue that would have caused the 12VDC fuse connector to melt, when I accidentally turned the fridge to "12V", instead of "ELEC", when I was connected to shore power?

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

Direct current (DC) has polarity and polarity is important.

Alternating current (AC) doesn't ... current flows first one way and then the other on the hot leg. (60 times a second in North America.) Current is flowing the opposite direction on the neutral leg.

Standard colors are green for ground, white for neutral, and black (and red on 240VAC) for hot.

I've seen white and black reversed on 120VAC outlets. Also, I don't trust wire colors on any wiring done by anyone else (including by manufacturers and professional electricians) until I've checked it myself.

Also -- VERY IMPORTANT -- 12VDC colors are often different from 120/240VAC standard. It's common for black to be negative (ground) and red to be positive (hot) in 12VDC motor vehicles.

j-d wrote:



When we had a B300, we had that problem and traced it to the bellcrank that adapts the fore and aft push of the brake pedal, to the transverse booster/master cylinder assembly. I actually drilled it and tapped it for a grease fitting. Included lubing the bellcrank in my chassis lube routine.

Usually I edit a Quote down to only the item in question, but since you mention Instrument Panel, I remember the Instrument Cluster Ground was kinda goofy. It was a wire that ran down the firewall, under the floor mat, to a screw down by the floor. Not positive (sold the B300 in 1992. Might have been one of the two screws that held the Hi/Lo Headlight Button. Anyhow, make sure that connection is snug or your gauges will do odd things.

StingrayL82 wrote:



I just took my booster and master cylinder out, to replace them and the pedal dropped (which activates your brake lights, btw), so I would imagine that they keep the pedal in place.

my440 wrote:

Oh yes the instrument cluster nightmare, that was last years task. I tracked that one down, regulator attached to the back of panel lost ground. Oil, temp, fuel gauges quit. Good now tho,thanks, and for the lube tip. Still working on this...

StingrayL82 wrote:



In 1975 Mopar called it the Voltage Limiter. We also have the Presence Lamp Relay and 20-amp Circuit Breaker, which was part of the Trailer Towing Package. The Circuit Breaker is connected to the Black side of the Ammeter and the Presence Lamp Relay is attached to the top of the Circuit Board, just next to the High Beam Indicator.

One of the first things I had to do, when I bought the motorhome, was replace the Circuit Board. The original had loose pins, where the wiring harness attaches, so I found a NOS Circuit Board. The other day, I pulled the Instrument Cluster, to finish cleaning the dust and dirt under the dash and saw that the copper on the Circuit Board was tarnished, so I took it out and used BarKeeper's Friend to clean it. I forgot to take an "After" pic, but here's the "Before".

What I find interesting is that Dodge used the Mopar 10,000-day calendar on some parts and the Julian calendar on others. You can see on the Instrument Cluster that it was built on "1605", or Tuesday, April 16th, 1975.

my440 wrote:

Hi Stingray, Yes voltage limiter thats it. In the process of removing the instrument panel I broke off a pin or 2. Could not find a replacement plug right away so ended up soldering all wires direct to the board. lol Gauges have working well since. Thanks for the tip on the Barkeeper's Friend tip for board cleaning.
Ya I do find the dates confusing on this ole Dodge!

StingrayL82 wrote:



I would have thought that, with the interior redesign in ‘78 that our cluster Circuit Boards would look different, but they’re identical, or is your rig a ‘78 built on a ‘77 chassis?