Ballenxj
Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now
Senior Member
Joined: 02/03/2003
View Profile
 Offline
|
I too am sorry to hear about Max. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
On a different note, your progress is looking really good. I'm impressed to see that you're taking the time to refurb the blower motor housing. You rig will be first class when you're finished. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Downsizing ">
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Ballenxj wrote:I too am sorry to hear about Max.
On a different note, your progress is looking really good. I'm impressed to see that you're taking the time to refurb the blower motor housing. You rig will be first class when you're finished.
Thank you all for the condolences. I miss Max already. It sucks they don’t live as long as we do.
It’s the OCD. There’s no point in doing it, if it’s not done right, plus I suspect, based on the rust on the bottom box bracket, that the core needs to be repaired. The old foam on the box was totally shot, and I want a system that is sealed as much as possible.
I took the original Mopar cruise control unit off the shelf and cleaned it up. Upon disassembly, I saw that the rubber diaphragm is still in very good condition and very pliable. All I had to do was replace the foam filter, so I used the pink foam I bought for the heater box. The only thing I don’t know is whether it’ll work with my Thermo-Quad. The ‘83 I got the carb and brackets from had the cruise unit up front, mounted on top of the radiator. I’ll figure it out, once the engine is in.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
So I've been a busy bee today. The main focus was making sure that I had all of the carburetor linkage and that it was correctly connected. The cruise control connects right up to the linkage with no issues. The springs I got from Year One are perfect. The only thing that irks me a bit is that the '83 B150 air cleaner I got from the junkyard is missing the pre-heat flap, which I didn't catch at the time. The flip side to that is that the original 2BBL air cleaner never had a pre-heat option, so I can live with it for now.
The other part of my day was spent hunting for parts that I still need, and I was lucky there too. I found the electric choke control, a used P/S pump pulley, and the original battery hold down bolts and a correct repro clamp. I had one bolt, but the other was missing.
So now that I know that everything fits, it's time to tear it all back down to the what I brought home from the engine builder's, so that I have as little weight as possible for my cherry picker.
Here's the pics.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/1zvXYCJl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/dWDQE69l.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/OY0iEMll.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/jCgHyKQl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/JGFXHEzl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/ejRcZZ9l.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/S1w00qbl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/hGuX8nVl.jpg)
|
RvFNG76
Michigan
Full Member
Joined: 07/14/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Its so shiny and pretty almost makes me want to cry
|
RvFNG76
Michigan
Full Member
Joined: 07/14/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Too bad there isn't a way to make it visible at all times.
|
|
|
RvFNG76
Michigan
Full Member
Joined: 07/14/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Stupid question but im curious. How are you going to install it the tradition through the front or throught the passenger side door?? Only reason i ask is that i have a buddy that had a few mid 70's b100 and b200 and he starts theeasiest way to remove the motor and install is through the passenger slides door. Anybody else heard this or does he have a point?
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
RvFNG76 wrote:Stupid question but im curious. How are you going to install it the tradition through the front or throught the passenger side door?? Only reason i ask is that i have a buddy that had a few mid 70's b100 and b200 and he starts theeasiest way to remove the motor and install is through the passenger slides door. Anybody else heard this or does he have a point?
I took it out through the passenger door, and I can tell you it was a royal B*!@H. I had my local machine shop fabricate a boom for my cherry picker that changes the angle, so that I can put it in through the front.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/C5FSJHDl.jpg)
|
RvFNG76
Michigan
Full Member
Joined: 07/14/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Right on this winter me and the wife are pulling ours out and swapping it for a 360 that i picked up with a transmission amd 4 barrel intake for only $150. Kinda geeked about that deal but now its in the stages of getting torn down(not much time due to work) im just trying to figure out cam number and everything being that the gentleman said it came out of a pickup truck many many years ago. And i know our rigs run a different one than the trucks and cars.
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
RvFNG76 wrote:Right on this winter me and the wife are pulling ours out and swapping it for a 360 that i picked up with a transmission amd 4 barrel intake for only $150. Kinda geeked about that deal but now its in the stages of getting torn down(not much time due to work) im just trying to figure out cam number and everything being that the gentleman said it came out of a pickup truck many many years ago. And i know our rigs run a different one than the trucks and cars.
The stock Mopar RV camshaft was, in my opinion, a decent performing unit. I did a lot of research and, after consulting with my engine builder, decided on the Comp Cam 20-221-3. The Mopar Performance P4452759AE is a fine camshaft, however the Comp Cam I chose has almost the same duration and a bit more lift, but it is more than half the cost of the Mopar cam.
The result, with .030" bore, 8.5:1 compression and a Thermo-Quad is 275hp/325lb-ft. at the flywheel.
|
Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
StingrayL82 wrote:RvFNG76 wrote:Right on this winter me and the wife are pulling ours out and swapping it for a 360 that i picked up with a transmission amd 4 barrel intake for only $150. Kinda geeked about that deal but now its in the stages of getting torn down(not much time due to work) im just trying to figure out cam number and everything being that the gentleman said it came out of a pickup truck many many years ago. And i know our rigs run a different one than the trucks and cars.
The stock Mopar RV camshaft was, in my opinion, a decent performing unit. I did a lot of research and, after consulting with my engine builder, decided on the Comp Cam 20-221-3. The Mopar Performance P4452759AE is a fine camshaft, however the Comp Cam I chose has almost the same duration and a bit more lift, but it is more than half the cost of the Mopar cam.
The result, with .030" bore, 8.5:1 compression and a Thermo-Quad is 275hp/325lb-ft. at the flywheel.
The cam I got for MLP's 318 is Comp Cam CL20-220-3. (Cam with lifters kit.) A lower RPM range, mostly because I prefer a lower idle than most people.
I spent about six weeks and well over 50 emails discussing everything with Outrageously Vintage in Maine. (A trophy winning drag race engine builder/racer, which I believe has since gone out of business.)
![[image]](http://www.hoodlouvers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Outrageously-Vintage-Racing.jpg)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
|
|
|
