Leeann
Maryland
Senior Member
Joined: 08/22/2006
View Profile
 Offline
|
We use Castrol 20w50. We never drive it in the winter, but if we had to I'd change to Castrol 10w30.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
VintageMopar wrote:Don’ t go from 2 bbl to 4 bbl without a camshaft change, it will be very laggy, hesitant and poor drive ability . Tried this when I was 16 with a 1965 Plymouth 383. Would rather lean pop and die than acceler
Very sound advice. I’ll add that carbs, whether 2BBL or 4BBL, are matched to the camshaft, for optimal performance.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
The Monaco fuel tank is done! I wire wheeled the entire thing, even the panel I had painted, sprayed LocTite Rust Neutralizer on it, then applied two coats of Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer. I then applied three coats of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black and, when it dried, sprayed Rustoleum Bed Liner.
This tank is good for another 40 years and then some.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/o3v4NZhl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/3ElHokNl.jpg)
|
Ballenxj
Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now
Senior Member
Joined: 02/03/2003
View Profile
Offline
|
StingrayL82 wrote:The Monaco fuel tank is done! I wire wheeled the entire thing, even the panel I had painted, sprayed LocTite Rust Neutralizer on it, then applied two coats of Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer. I then applied three coats of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black and, when it dried, sprayed Rustoleum Bed Liner.
This tank is good for another 40 years and then some.
BRAVO! Looking good. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
Downsizing ">
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Ballenxj wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:The Monaco fuel tank is done! I wire wheeled the entire thing, even the panel I had painted, sprayed LocTite Rust Neutralizer on it, then applied two coats of Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer. I then applied three coats of Rustoleum Semi-Gloss Black and, when it dried, sprayed Rustoleum Bed Liner.
This tank is good for another 40 years and then some.
BRAVO! Looking good.
Thank you! I have to keep reminding myself that this is not a restoration that will ever enter a judging contest, that the unseen parts don't have to look good, they just have to work, but the OCD in me never gets the message.
I'm sort of on the downhill slide now. The engine and transmission need to go back in, as do the driveshafts. After that, reinstallation of the new black tank, fuel tank, new toilet, and then suspension and brakes. The final thing will be a new windshield and she's done.
There has to be an easy way to install the engine. When I took it out, I followed the service manual and went through the passenger door....that was a royal female dog. Now that the interior is done, you can bet I'm not installing it that way, but I can't figure out a convenient way to put it in with my cherry picker through the front.
Any suggestions?
|
|
|
Ballenxj
Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now
Senior Member
Joined: 02/03/2003
View Profile
Offline
|
StingrayL82 wrote:
There has to be an easy way to install the engine. When I took it out, I followed the service manual and went through the passenger door....that was a royal female dog. Now that the interior is done, you can bet I'm not installing it that way, but I can't figure out a convenient way to put it in with my cherry picker through the front.
Any suggestions?
It's going to be a pain any which way you do it, but I'm thinking that pulling the hood, grill, radiator, radiator core support, etc. should a straight shot. Now you've got me wondering if pulling the entire front clip as a unit might be a viable option?
BTW, when it comes to automotive, obsessive, and compulsive are generally thought as good things by car folk.
|
Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
StingrayL82 wrote:There has to be an easy way to install the engine. When I took it out, I followed the service manual and went through the passenger door....that was a royal female dog. Now that the interior is done, you can bet I'm not installing it that way, but I can't figure out a convenient way to put it in with my cherry picker through the front.
Any suggestions?
1. Remove hood, grill, and radiator. Use a low-arm cherry-picker with a short chain to engine.
2. Drop front axle and bring engine up from below. (This is what is usually necessary with Class A's.)
Gas tank looks great. As for CDO (that's OCD with letters in alphabetic order), better to do it right once than needing to do over ... and over ... and over ...
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
Ballenxj wrote:It's going to be a pain any which way you do it, but I'm thinking that pulling the hood, grill, radiator, radiator core support, etc. should a straight shot. Now you've got me wondering if pulling the entire front clip as a unit might be a viable option?
BTW, when it comes to automotive, obsessive, and compulsive are generally thought as good things by car folk.
I know it's going to be a pain, and I'm dreading it. The hood is still on, because it didn't look like it would interfere with reinstallation, but you might be right. Grille, radiator, radiator core support are all out, but there is still a metal support that sits behind the bumper, to which the core support attaches, and it's welded in.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:1. Remove hood, grill, and radiator. Use a low-arm cherry-picker with a short chain to engine.
2. Drop front axle and bring engine up from below. (This is what is usually necessary with Class A's.)
Gas tank looks great. As for CDO (that's OCD with letters in alphabetic order), better to do it right once than needing to do over ... and over ... and over ...
My cherry picker is not low-arm, unfortunately, which leaves me with option 2. and honestly I'm not opposed to it. If I drop the K-member, I can then redo the suspension a heckuva lot easier.
There's a part of me that just wants to say fornicate it and send it down the road to have the big truck shop install it. They have a lift and can shoehorn it in. The drawback is they charge $115/hr.
|
StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
Senior Member
Joined: 06/27/2017
View Profile
Offline
|
I found the solution, and I can't believe I didn't think of it: K.I.S.S. Engine Hoist Modification
* This post was
edited 05/20/18 10:10pm by StingrayL82 *
|
Griff in Fairbanks
AK
Senior Member
Joined: 04/21/2005
View Profile
Offline
|
Yup, seen it before, just couldn't remember where. A friend in the '70s would jack up the front of the vehicle to get clearance and right angle for hoist. (He also cautioned to take care ... he once knocked the vehicle off the jack stands when he bumped it.)
|
|
|
|
