StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Here’s the link to the LED lights I bought: Amazon MICTUNING LED Lights
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Interesting. Price per fixture isn't much more than replacement 1141/1156 bulbs.
At 580 lumens, each fixture is approximately equivalent to a 50 watt 120VAC household screw-base incandescent bulb or a bit brighter than two 1141 bulbs. (Not quite as bright as two 1156 bulbs.)
A little more than 1/2 amp per fixture. (I'd use 1 amp for wiring and circuit protection device sizing.)
I like the three-way switch -- both sides (580 lumens) on, one side (290 lumens) on, or all off. (This is sometimes called 'step dimming,' although that usually applies to more than two light levels.)
Being a cantankerous, old fart with 'carved in stone' opinions, I'd refer wall mounted to fixture mounted switches. (I'd be interested in seeing a picture of the underside, see how difficult it'd be to shift control to a wall mounted switch ... shouldn't be difficult.)
The nine yellow rectangles in the fifth and sixth images are the LED SMDs, presumably for a total of 18 per fixture. (No, it's not really possible to modify the fixtures for more than two levels of step dimming. The SMDs are probably mounted on printed circuit boards and modifying PCB traces and drilling new connections are difficult. Otherwise, six levels in 97 lumen increments would be possible.)
* This post was
edited 04/04/18 02:43pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Ask and ye shall receive.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/4Atx0YOl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/OxvcLPLl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/CAglBxYl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/tYRpvi7l.jpg)
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Ballenxj
Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now
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StingrayL82 wrote:Ask and ye shall receive.
Those look pretty darned GOODD! ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Downsizing ">
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Ballenxj wrote:StingrayL82 wrote:Ask and ye shall receive.
Those look pretty darned GOODD!
You’re more than welcome to come by and see them in person!
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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Yeah, they really do look good.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Leeann wrote:Yeah, they really do look good.
The best part about LED lights is that you can leave them on all day and they’ll be warm. Regular incandescent lights would give you third degree burns and scorch the ceiling of your RV.
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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StingrayL82 wrote:Ask and ye shall receive.
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to see. Converting to wall mounted switch will be easy.
Interesting that they switched both side of the circuit -- positive/supply-side and negative/ground-side. Only one side actually needs to be switched and, as a matter of ornery preference, I prefer positive/supply side switching. (Negative/ground-side switching is rare enough to cause confusion if you don't consider the possibility ... based on personal trouble-shooting experience.)
I assume the white wires are positive/supply-side and black wires are negative/ground-side. (Polarity is important unless the PCBs have circuits for 'correcting' reversed polarity.)
Need suitable wall mount switch. Single or double pole will work because we're only going to switch the positive/supply-side of the circuit. It may be designated as double or triple throw, depending on whether the OFF position is counted or not. So, suitable switches would be SPDT, DPDT, SP3T, or DP3T. (SPDT or DPDT is more likely.)
Regardless of pole/throw designation, it should be an OFF-ON-ON or ON-OFF-ON switch. (OFF-ON-ON would be preferable, to avoid passing through OFF when changing low/high setting. Unfortunately, OFF-ON-ON is less common than ON-OFF-ON.)
Do not choose OFF-ON-(ON) or (ON)-OFF-ON ... the parenthesis indicate spring-loaded momentary contacts. Likewise, don't choose ON-ON or ON-(ON) as neither of those have an OFF position.
What wirea to cut and where to cut them will follow, once you've chosen or obtained suitable switch(es).
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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I got my new defroster hoses in today and installed them. I also cleaned up and refurbished the A/C unit. I love the Mopar AM radio, “SOLID STATE BY CHRYSLER CORPORATION”. The ARA speaker was beyond toast, so I have to order a new 5x7.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/uaTqdNJl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/RcGICs6l.jpg)
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Scratch what I said about single pole switches ... we need double pole switches to make things work right. So, DPDT or DP3T would be the necessary designations.
And, I see what they did with switching both sides of the circuit ... the turkeys!! (And stronger expletives.) Unconventional but easy in terms of manufacture. (Conventional wiring would have been just as easy.) However, it creates a potential for being a royal PITA when it comes to trouble shooting. (We'll go with conventional switch wiring, to avoid causing confusion for someone down the road.)
On another note, I really hate -- really, really hate -- really, really, really hate -- working inside a dash. Working on the backside of instrument clusters and similar dash 'faceplates' is okay but actually working inside the dash isn't. (Did I mention I really hate working inside a dash?) I'd gladly trade rebuilding an automatic transmission to have someone else do the contortions required to actually work inside a dash.
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