StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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And after we changed the jets out to .104". Needles are .067"/.045" tip, OEM# 75-1966.
360cid w/800cfm ThermoQuad
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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The 1976 Monaco has been upgraded to Bluetooth technology.
On another note, I found out why the original Pioneer 8-track player never worked. The guy at the Monaco assembly plant who installed it ran two brown wires, one each from the ceiling light positive yellow and negative green wires and then connected the Pioneer red and black wires to those brown wires, ultimately reversing them, so that red was negative and black was positive.
The sound from the new Bluetooth radio is way better, even though the 8-track is cooler.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/12Y4xuFl.jpg)
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RvFNG76
Michigan
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Doing away with onboard propane tank has pinholes on the top of it regulatpr is still good how should i proceed?
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Definitely new tank, not used. Check the date on the regulator to make sure it hasn't expired.
I'd recommend a new regulator. (New regulator is my preferred practice ... why deal with or work on something twice.)
Staying with a permanently mounted tank will probably be more expensive but eliminates the need to build a tank compartment.
If you choose to switch to portable tanks, understand there are significant safety concerns and legal requirements/restrictions. At a minimum, there must be a sealed 'firewall' between the compartment and motorhome interior. The door on the compartment must have at least one vent to the exterior and preferably two. If one vent, it must be located low on the door. (Propane is heavier than air and sinks to the lowest level.). Two is preferable, one located low down and the other near the top of the door.
Also, the tanks must be securely fastened in the compartment, to prevent movement.
ABYC has good standards for propane installation on boats and yachts. The added safety margins in ABYC guidance is worth applying to motorhomes. (Regulations and guidance specific to motor vehicles is hard to find and difficult to understand.)
* This post was
edited 03/17/18 07:03pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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StingrayL82 wrote:The 1976 Monaco has been upgraded to Bluetooth technology.
On another note, I found out why the original Pioneer 8-track player never worked. The guy at the Monaco assembly plant who installed it ran two brown wires, one each from the ceiling light positive yellow and negative green wires and then connected the Pioneer red and black wires to those brown wires, ultimately reversing them, so that red was negative and black was positive.
The sound from the new Bluetooth radio is way better, even though the 8-track is cooler.
Sorry, I had to laugh ... I've seen that kind of thing so often it no longer surprises me and I actually expect it.
Two people may have been involved, one making 'stub-out' connections and the other making actual device connections. (Or, vice versa). Regardless, using the same color wires for positive and negative connections always creates confusion. Add in some people who really don't know what they're doing and the result is pure frustration for people who actually have to use things.
I managed to avoid 8-tracks, largely because equipment to record them was too expensive. (Went straight from reel-to-reel to cassettes.)
* This post was
edited 03/17/18 07:04pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Note to everyone: Activity on this thread tends to occur in spurts or surges. There'll be long periods without any activity. (Usually because people are busy using their motorhomes or doing other things.)
Then, someone will post something and there's a sudden surge of responses and discussions, adding multiple pages to the thread length.
It's all normal for this thread.
* This post was
edited 03/17/18 07:09pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
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RvFNG76
Michigan
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:Definitely new tank, not used. Check the date on the regulator to make sure it hasn't expired.
I'd recommend a new regulator. (New regulator is my preferred practice ... why deal with or work on something twice.)
Staying with a permanently mounted tank will probably be more expensive but eliminates the need to build a tank compartment.
If you choose to switch to portable tanks, understand there are significant safety concerns and legal requirements/restrictions. At a minimum, there must be a sealed 'firewall' between the compartment and motorhome interior. The door on the compartment must have at least one vent to the exterior and preferably two. If one vent, it must be located low on the door. (Propane is heavier than air and sinks to the lowest level.). Two is preferable, one located low down and the other near the top of the door.
Also, the tanks must be securely fastened in the compartment, to prevent movement.
ABYC has good standards for propane installation on boats and yachts. The added safety margins in ABYC guidance is worth applying to motorhomes. (Regulations and guidance specific to motor vehicles is hard to find and difficult to understand.)
Thought about that but my plan was to use replacement bottles if you will i can buy a new 30 lb. tank for really cheap $75 plus propane business is close by me at $2.38 a gallon so about $10 or so to have refilled any thoughts
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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RvFNG76 wrote:Thought about that but my plan was to use replacement bottles if you will i can buy a new 30 lb. tank for really cheap $75 plus propane business is close by me at $2.38 a gallon so about $10 or so to have refilled any thoughts
I understand, I've gone over that ground myself and researched laws, regulations, and guidance.
It might be tempting to mount the tanks on exposed racks on the back. Don't. There's negative air pressure in the back of a moving motorhome that can cause propane to be drawn into the motorhome. Also, exposed propane tanks tend to be a magnet for law enforcement officers.
(My '49 Int'l Metro had an exposed propane tank on the back, for the heater, and I was pulled over four times specifically for 'safety' inspections.)
You're going to need to build a compartment in the side of the motorhome. (Not in the rear ... see above.)
As noted, the compartment needs to be completely sealed to prevent propane from leaking into the interior. Likewise, compartment must be vented to the exterior. (Open outdoor air.). Compartment must be large enough for the tank(s) plus regulator.
(Under certain conditions, regulators can vent propane so they need to be 'outdoors.')
Almost all portable propane tanks must be stored and used in the vertical position. (For safety reasons, I cringe whenever I see a propane tank being transported in horizontal orientation.). There are some suitable for horizontal use -- primarily on forklifts -- but they're hard to find and usually more expensive. (Price for portable horizontal tanks is probably close to the price for permanent tanks.)
30 and 40 pound vertical tanks cost significantly more than the common 20 pound 'barbecue' tanks. The added height of 30 and 40 pounders makes it much more difficult to find a suitable place for a compartment.
Photograph and document everything involved in creating a compartment and installing the propane system. Insurance companies are likely to decline a claim based on 'nonprofessional' propane installation. So, be prepared to fight it out in court, should the need arise.
Check state and local laws, in addition to federal regulations. Many places strictly limit work on propane systems to certified/licensed propane professionals. These restrictions could extend to propane installations and compartments in recreational vehicles. (Or, misinterpreted and misapplied by over-zealous government officials.)
Yes, it's a lot of big headaches, especially considering propane is less dangerous than gasoline. (On the other hand, gasoline isn't stored in pressurized tanks.)
To be honest, I'm torn between two preferred types of propane installations:
1. Permanent tank with an 'extend-a-stay' connection and valve for a portable tank. This would be my preference in the Lower 48.
2. Two 20 pound tanks in a suitable compartment, with spares carried on a trailer for lengthy stays. This is my preference for Alaska because 'bottle swap' stations are common while propane refill stations are often 100-200 miles away, (Fairbanks and Anchorage are 360 miles apart and I'm not sure it there's anywhere to get propane refilled in between.)
BTW, I prefer POL tank fittings and keep an extra wrench on hand specifically for changing tanks.
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Addendum -- Here in Alaska, new empty 20 pound tanks are $20-30. I have my 20 pounders refilled by a major fuel distributor and occasionally go bottle-swap to 'refresh' my tanks. Price for propane is comparable, with bottle-swap stations being a little bit more.
A new, full tank from a bottle-swap station is considerably more than buying a new tank elsewhere and having it filled at the distributor.
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Addendum #2 -- 20 pounders are a nominal 5 gallons. 30 pounders are a nominal 7.5 gallons. (Actual capacity is slightly less ... roughly 4.5-4.7 gallons for 20 pounders.)
4.5 gallons at $2.38 per gallon is $10.71. 6.75 gallons (typical 'fill' for 30 pounders) at same price per gallon is a little over $16.
And, yes, your price for propane is considerably less than up here.
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