Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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StingrayL82 wrote:Griff in Fairbanks wrote:...(Up-to-date two-stage regulator ... regulators do have expiration dates and you should not use an expired regulator.)...
Well said. Another rookie mistake I made years ago with an old Streamline travel trailer we owned.
Here's another good link to the thread sealant: http://allthumbsdiy.com/plumbing/when-to-use-ptfe-teflon-yellow-or-white-tapes-or-pipe-dope
My 'mantra' is safety first, reliability second, and durability third. (Making things 'pretty' is a distant fourth.) That mantra invariably means extensive research and study.
Thank you for the second link to a very good, well-written and informative article. This is exactly what I was looking for and I recommend everyone read it.
As I indicated previously, I rely primarily on what the article calls 'pipe dope.' It specifically mentions Permatex 80632 Thread Sealant with PTFE, which is what I use due to the significantly subzero (F) temperatures in interior Alaska.
The article clearly differentiates between thread tape and thread compound (pipe dope). It further makes a distinction between white and yellow thread tape.
BTW - there's a button above the "Message:" block, between the quote and email buttons, that allows you to embed a clickable weblink in your posts. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
* This post was
edited 02/12/18 06:33pm by Griff in Fairbanks *
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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StingrayL82 wrote:Redundancy is the key to safe operation of our RVs. One of things I will be incorporating into our Monaco is a CO/Propane detector, a must for anyone who owns an RV. I was lucky enough to have my dog in 2010. I wonder how many people succumb to propane accidents in RVs.
Also a very good -- and inexpensive -- recommendation. Natural gas and propane are relatively odorless ... aromatic compounds are added to both so people can smell a leak. However, the CO/propane detectors are more sensitive than the human nose. (A dog's nose is even more sensitive than both of those.)
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:BTW - there's a button above the "Message:" block, between the quote and email buttons, that allows you to embed a clickable weblink in your posts.
I'm used to forums that automatically embed the link, when typed, sorry. I'll used the button from now on.
Fred
Retired Army Guy
2005 Monaco LaPalma 37PST
Workhorse W24 chassis
8.1L Vortec
Allison 2100 MH
Onyx Color Scheme
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Some clarification for everyone trying to follow the preceding discussion:
1. I've been been primarily discussing pipe thread compound (aka pipe dope) while StingrayL82 has been focusing mostly on pipe thread tape. Two closely related but distinctly different materials with similar uses.
2. There are many types of hose/tubing/pipe fittings and connections, with distinct differences in appropriate uses. The thread compound and thread tape we've been discussing is only suitable for tapered NPT threads. Thread tape and thread compound is absolutely NOT suitable for use on other types of fittings and connections, such as flare nut or AN fittings.
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:Some clarification for everyone trying to follow the preceding discussion:
1. I've been been primarily discussing pipe thread compound (aka pipe dope) while StingrayL82 has been focusing mostly on pipe thread tape. Two closely related but distinctly different materials with similar uses.
2. There are many types of hose/tubing/pipe fittings and connections, with distinct differences in appropriate uses. The thread compound and thread tape we've been discussing is only suitable for tapered NPT threads. Thread tape and thread compound is absolutely NOT suitable for use on other types of fittings and connections, such as flare nut or AN fittings.
And, in the interest of full disclosure, the ONLY experience I have with pipe dope is managing to get the stuff all over myself, instead of on the pipe threads. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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You're supposed to use it, not wear it. If you think pipe dope is bad, you haven't lived until you've tried working with Tremco Acoustical Curtain Wall Sealant. (aka 'black death')
As for pipe dope, I usually forgo the brush attached to the cap. Instead, I use an acid brush, dipping it in to get just enough dope on the bristles to do what I need. (And, throw the brush away when I'm done.) A little is good, a lot is a mess waiting to happen. (As indicated previously, only on the male pipe threads.)
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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On a side note, I found a full bottle of Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer on one of my shelves, so I'll hit the painted panel with the wire wheel again and use it. Then I'll paint it (again), and top it off with 3M rubber spray that's also on my shelf. I might as well give it a fighting chance of lasting another 40 years.
Waiting for the last of my ancillary engine parts to arrive is like waiting the last six months of retirement from the military.....it's taking forever!!!!! I can't wait to see this engine fire up. I'm going to take video of it....is there a way to post video, other than with a YouTube link?
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StingrayL82
Nampa, Idaho
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Eric Hysteric wrote:New posts in the topic! Nice! Very appetizing photos StingrayL82.
I bought an used IMPCO propane conversion kit. The kit comes from a GM and now i need an adapter between the IMPCO 300A Mixer and my Thermoquad 4BBL carburetor. Does anyone have a tip for me?
Thank you! It's been a fun project for sure.
Griff in Fairbanks wrote:I went to the IMPCO website and poked around.
In the Technical Support dropdown menu is an Installation Instructions webpage. On that webpage is Thermo-Quad Adapter Installation Instructions for part # AA3-64.
I read that installation manual you linked to....Eric, you should look at it, before you decide to mount it to your ThermoQuad. I took a capture of what caught my eye.
If it were mine, I'd swap out to a Quadrajet, before installing the Impco unit.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/CMKft9fl.jpg)
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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StingrayL82 wrote:On a side note, I found a full bottle of Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer on one of my shelves, so I'll hit the painted panel with the wire wheel again and use it. Then I'll paint it (again), and top it off with 3M rubber spray that's also on my shelf. I might as well give it a fighting chance of lasting another 40 years.
Waiting for the last of my ancillary engine parts to arrive is like waiting the last six months of retirement from the military.....it's taking forever!!!!! I can't wait to see this engine fire up. I'm going to take video of it....is there a way to post video, other than with a YouTube link?
The Loctite Extend Rust Neutralizer is a rust converter.
I wish you were near me and I had my large (planned third) electrolytic rust removal tank up and running. It would remove the paint and blast all the rust off the tank. Best and easiest method I've found so far for removing rust and most paint. Also, environmentally friendly, without any nasty chemicals and residue.
Then, we (or, more likely, you) could go over it with diluted PPG DX579 and a 3M Scotch Bride pad, prime it, and paint it. That way, it'd definitely last 40 or more years.
I'm not sure about the 3M rubber spray ... I'd have to research it. I have, however, seen significant problems with rubberized undercoatings and similar treatments. (They often create more problems by trapping water next to what they're supposed to be protecting.)
I worked right up to my last duty day before retiring, mostly to piss off a Chief Master Sergeant and a civilian GS-Umpty-Ump.
* This post was
edited 02/13/18 12:23am by Griff in Fairbanks *
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Griff in Fairbanks
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StingrayL82 wrote:If it were mine, I'd swap out to a Quadrajet, before installing the Impco unit.
Depending on throat diameter, an Edelbrock/Carter AFB may be an alternative to consider.
Edelbrock bought up the Carter AFB molds and tooling so (some of) the Edelbrock carburetors are basically Carter AFBs. (Many of the parts interchange.)
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