Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Joined: 09/19/2017
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Thanks Griff!!!
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/dgiiawia/atsf.jpg)
'79 Dodge Sportsman 5.9 LA 360 TEC Campmate
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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It doesn't have to be Mopar brand ... any brand will do, as long as it's ATF+4.
Most petroleum (and synthetic) motor vehicle products are made by a few refineries. The labels for major and chain distributors are applied before warehoused or shipped.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Griff in Fairbanks wrote:It doesn't have to be Mopar brand ... any brand will do, as long as it's ATF+4.
yes, i have founded and bought 2x4l bottels Ravenol ATF+4.
![[image]](https://www.ravenol-shop.de/media/image/0c/fb/82/1211100-004-Getriebeoel-ATF-Plus-4-Fluid-Chrysler_600x600.jpg)
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Leeann
Maryland
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Joined: 08/22/2006
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^ No, Griff: ATF+3 or ATF+4 is only for those auto boxes with overdrive.
For the 727, Dex/Merc is what is spec'ed and what works. ATF+4 is synthetic and actually isn't recommended.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo
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Griff in Fairbanks
AK
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^ I stand corrected. I relied on my commercial parts account and this isn't the first time it's been wrong. Further research revealed Leeann is correct.
FYI - the A518 is, at it's core, an A727 with an overdrive and lockup torque converter added. The first three gears in both are essential identical, with most parts interchangeable. The A518 overdrive gear is in the tailcone, attached the the back of what is essentially an A727.
(Some late model A727 have lockup torque converter.)
The lockup torque converter in particular requires specific fluid, while the non-lockup A727 is less finicky.
The level of engineering and manufacturing of the A727 is demonstrable. It remained in production for decades, from it's introduction the early '60s until it was effectively replaced by the A518. It is also quite durable, as long as it's not abused. (I had to rebuild the one in my '66 Polara because it hadn't been maintained and was subjected to abusive driving.)
Unfortunately, the overdrive and lockup torque converter additions for the A518 didn't have the same level of engineering and manufacturing.
Early A518 torque converters suffered from faulty clutch material in the lockup torque converter. The material had a tendency to disintegrate and the particles collected in the transmission cooler in the radiator, plugging it. Because the torque converter continued operate like a non-lockup version, people weren't aware of the problem until the transmission failed due to excess heat.
Aftermarket torque converters were marketed to counter this problem. Likewise, Mopar upgraded the clutch material in the torque converter when it identified the problem.
Also, the overdrive in the A518 tailcone is not as durable as the A727/A518 parts ahead of it. Moderately aggressive driving (i.e., routine hard acceleration) can damage the overdrive.
It's possible to switch from an A727 to an A518 but I wouldn't recommend it, especially in a motorhome. There are alternatives to gain the overdrive and lockup advantages of the A518, using the original A727 as a starting point. (It's not cheap so the fuel savings may not offset the upfront cost.)
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TreeSeeker
San Diego
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Joined: 10/10/2007
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I found this good tutorial on old Chrysler ICM's this morning.
Chrysler Electronic Ignition 101
Note that someone said that the 5th pin on newer units are dummies.
Quote:That extra pin is no mystery.
One is powered in start position and the other runs through a ballast in the run position.
The old 5 pin modules were poor in fact they couldn't limit current on their own. The 4 pin can somewhat, so only needs 2 pin ballast. The replacement modules are 4 pin type and don't need the 4pin ballast. May have a 5th pin, but it's just a dummy pin that leads to no where.
That seems risky since most people would just think it was a direct replacement, however you need to rewire your system and switch to a two pin ballast resister. Or, maybe you don't NEED a two pin ballast, you just can use one? Perhaps it is in the instructions for the ICM.
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TreeSeeker
San Diego
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Guess what I found in an old parts box in the back of the closet in my RV this morning?
![[image]](http://i68.tinypic.com/2n24f95.jpg)
It's brand new. Apparently the previous owner expected it might be needed.
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Nice suprise TreeSeeker:-) I love NOS!
Found the leak today. It seems if i would need a new ICM. Engine started today cold 1 time, after a short brake did no start anymore. :-/
![[image]](https://img3.picload.org/image/dgpdadpa/img_20171015_125027757.jpg)
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Eric Hysteric
Hildesheim
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Please take a look what i found:
"Replaces all 4-pin and 5-pin ECUs with NO modifications, 100% plug and play.
Works with 4-pin or 5-pin ballast resistors, again with NO modification."
Can i trust it?
![[image]](https://img2.picload.org/image/dgpclgal/zwischenablage-2.jpg)
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TreeSeeker
San Diego
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Eric,
I had to lookup NOS and found it means New Old Stock. Hmm, maybe it should have been ONS Old New Stock. Nevertheless, it is old and hasn't been used. And it was free!
Your ICM definitely looks like it needs to be replaced. Leaking and it looks like it may be the original.
I like the concept of the one you found that works with both 4 and 5 pin plugs without any mods. Sounds great, but I am not sure how they do that. It is supposed to require some rewiring to switch, so how can that be done inside the ICM? Hmm. Maybe try searching for it in some Mopar forums.
I guess Griff fell in the black hole of his new game...
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