snakesvt04
maryland
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Joined: 04/27/2010
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RV TYPE: 1993 WINNEBAGO BRAVE
i am new to this sit and i have no idea if anyone can help me but if you can that would be great. We just got this class A RV and i try to turn the generator on and it kills all the power in the motorhome i checked all the fuses and nothing was wrong with them the generator isn't even making any noise when i push the start to turn it on. it was working last week i used it now nothing and info will be great thanks
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MickeyBrennan
Playa de Carmen, Q.R. Mexico
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Joined: 03/06/2010
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We had to stop to get out the duck tape. The new windshield came loose! I kept telling her that the door was not closed tight! Sorry hun!
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shonrt1
Illinois
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Joined: 01/05/2010
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2001 National Caribbean 35' DP - Allison Transmission
260 HP Cummins ISB
Overheated about 100 miles into trip.
Made it to a Cummins Repair Shop
This was our first trip in the used DP we purchased in December.
Cummins shop found charge air cooler was shot and filter was clogged.
Asked shop to replace CAC and filter, change coolant, change thermostat and clean and flush radiator.
When degreasing radiator, fins started to fall out. Radiator was corroded from road salt (purchased from individual in Chicago area).
Radiator had to be replaced.
RV nows run beautifully.
Do not rely on CAC air gauge, which is supposed to show when airflow is becoming restricted. Our gauge, which I checked regularly, showed all was normal. My CAC was so clogged, I'm surprised the RV would even start. Cummins tech told me they see this all the time, RV'ers rely on the gauge without checking the filter in the CAC and they've seen cylinders scorched because of dirty air reaching the cylinders.
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SNOPRO711X
MINNESOTA
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Joined: 04/19/2010
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This was the trip from hell a few years ago.
I bought my brothers 1992 Tioiga Class C from him. Before we went on our first trip that summer I discovered that the refrigerator did not work, replaced the refrigerator. Went into the local tire shop and asked them if it was time for new tires, they said I was good for another year. We decided to travel from Mn to an area South of Butte MT then back to MN via the Big Horn mountains. On the second day of our trip the motor home lost power and quit near Columbus MT. The temperature was about 100 degrees, I got towed back to Columbus by the local body shop/wrecker company. Since it was a Sunday he towed us to his shop and got us plugged in to power for the night. The next morning the motor home started just fine. The wrecker operator told me that I probably needed a new fuel pump and that the Ford garage in town would tell me that I did not need one. He was right, the Ford garage said the only problem was the fuel filter and they sent me on my way. I made it as far as Bute MT before it quit again. The local Ford garage wanted nothing to do with fixing a motor home. I convinced them that I needed a new fuel pump, they agreed to farm the job out to a truck repair shop. I got the MH back the next day and everything worked great for the rest of the trip until we were on our way home. I then had a blow out on the inside right rear dual tire. We were in the middle of no where but I did have a jack with me and was able to change the tire. Naturally the fender liner, exhaust pipe and storage drawer under the refrigerator were destroyed.
The next Summer I took this same MH into the shop because it was making a noise from the drive train. The mechanic could not find anything wrong. I figured it out 700 miles later in the middle of Montana, bad U-joint on the drive shaft. I was able to limp into Sheridan WY and find a shop that could fix it that day. The repair was very reasonable and I gave the mechanic a nice tip for his prompt service.
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Scrooge39
Marietta, Ga.
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Joined: 07/13/2005
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RV: 2000 HR Ambassador DP, Cummins ISB engine with Banks Power System.
Symptom: On a 6700 mile trip out west, about ¾ thru the trip had dash “WARNING” light, loss of Exhaust temp. gauge and Boost gauge, engine went into “derate” mode (fastest I could go was about 45mph). Above symptoms occurred intermittently then went solid broke.
Cause: Fault code posted was 123, which is Intake Manifold Pressure Sensor circuit malfunction. When the Cummins computer detects problem in the above-mentioned circuit, it goes into “derate” mode in order to protect the engine. The Banks Ottomind is in circuit between pressure sensor and Cummins computer. Cabled around Ottomind black box and was able to make it back home with full power. Upon removing cover of Ottomind, discovered all sorts of road dirt on the circuit board. This, I feel, caused the demise of the black box.
Resolution: Replaced Banks Ottomind black box (not cheap either).
A word of caution to those with the Banks System installed on their units: check the location of the Ottomind box. Mine was located in the engine compartment (about 2 feet above the road) where it was exposed to moisture and road dirt. I installed the new box inside the coach under the bed where is free from moisture and road dirt.
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rm23956
Jonesboro, Ga
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Joined: 07/20/2006
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1989 Allegreo
Chevy 454 engine
75,000 miles
Long story short-Fan belt broke and engine overheated and before I caught it, it threw a rod. Had motorhome towed 300 miles home to Atlanta and I replaced engine with a crate engine. On the next trip, had the new engine destroy a rod bearing in Gaffney SC, probably due to improper pre-oiling by the engine rebuilder. Got to a Chevy dealer who said they could change it. Original engine builder rebuilt engine under protest and Chevy dealer in Gaffney installed it. Next trip, 700 miles from home, bolts holding front pulley broke from being over torqued by the dealer, went through radiator and cut two brake lines. Peterbuilt shop made repairs at over $3,000, drove back home and traded it in because wife wouldn't get in it anymore. Moral: Don't by a crate engine from just anyone and make sure the guarantee is good. I wouldn't buy from anyone but Jasper or Mr. Goodwrench at this point, and make sure, if you have a shop do it that they have mechanics who know what they are doing. Obviously the Chevy dealer didn't.
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StickyDrumGuy
Asia
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Joined: 07/09/2010
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Babington style waste oil heater pumps
The cam gear pump works fine for filtered WVO or used motor oil Babington heaters and I have installed it on my Babington style heaters. Ldu Company's stock number is 450516 , The only thing about the cam gear pump is that the fire kind of pulses as the cam gear rotates. If you use the spur gear pump that is LDU's stock number 450512 then you get a steady non-pulsing fire. The WVO pump website is http://www.liangdianup.com/subpages/oilpump_1.htm or you can click through to the tools section from the home page at www.LDUcompany.com
LDU Company also has other parts that I use for building my waste oil burners, like gear reduction motors. I find it best to turn the pump slower because you really don't need a whole lot of oil dripping on the atomizer ball.
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stewarttate
CA
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Joined: 07/15/2010
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Lil Truckr wrote:Unfortunately I have to be a contributor to this thread.
Last August when we were north bound on I-39 somewhere between Bloomington, Ill. and Rockford, Ill. I went over a bump in the road caused by road construction.
All of a sudden my coach had no power. No electrical, no transmission, no engine, no nothing. I managed to coast to the side of the road and their we sat. When I turned my ignitions switch, to attempt to start the coach, nothing happened. I waited a few minutes and tried again and it started only to stop running again. I then went and looked into the battery compartment to see if maybe a battery had came loose and was shorting out against something but they were okay.
I then went back and attempted to start the coach and it started right up. It kept running so we headed out and made it back to Stevens Point, Wisconsin without further incident.
I took the coach up to my dealer who looked the coach over from front to back but they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. So, somewhere in my coach I have a problem waiting to jump out and bite me and there's nothing I can do to prevent it. Scary ain't it. ![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
Check your master shutoff switch usually located in the engine compartment. Your problem description happened to me![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
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Johnamac123
Bowling Green
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Joined: 07/19/2010
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1986 Fleetwood Southwind
454 Big Block V8
65,000 miles
Rookie owner on first vacation trip. RV running fine, made trip from FL to KY with no problems. Stopped at Rest Area in WV. When we tried to start, got nothing. Checked all fuses and tried to jump battery, no help. Called Good Sam road service. Two hours later wrecker showed up. Driver knew where to look, wiring touching the manifold had burned through. Had some wire and replaced burnt section, RV started up.
Followed to Chevy dealer for the night. Replaced wiring harness and starter which was also heat damaged. Recommended that we put back heat shield that was missing.
Actually, pretty lucky this happened at a rest stop. Other than loosing one day and $400, no other issues. Good Sam driver was VERY helpful!!!
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Livin Good
On The Road
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Joined: 12/07/2008
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Great
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