summerwinds48
Florida
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Joined: 01/15/2007
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To Abba,
Had a similar problem last year with my 1994 P30 Itasca. The speedometer system is electronic. Problem started when the speedometer was zooming up to 90mph+ while doing about 50mph. Engine idled down when this happened, but recovered when I slowed to below 47. Eventually the speedometer was always showing double the speed and the odometer was recording double mileage constantly. Could not exceed 47 mph. Talked to a speedometer shop, and they wanted to start with the control head, then work backwards. Nuts, WOuld have cost megabucks. So, I started with the speed sensors on the tranni. Replaced both the speed sensor and the ABS sensor. No change, then after researching, found the cause was a small elecronic board under the dash. It's the buffer board, the electronic equivalent of gears in mechanical speedometer system. Removed, and tracked down a replacement through Delco. Cost, $70. Installed, and now works perfect, both speedometer and odometer.
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dajablock
Round O,SC USA
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Joined: 04/03/2001
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Just found your post on speedometer problem . Same thing happened with me on our 95 adventurer. Also I have narrowed it down to the buffer and have not been able to find a source to buy it other than my chevrolet dealer ordering it to the tune of $175.00 Could You give me your source?
[email protected]
David Blocker 843-835-2173
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irish2fire
North Carolina
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Joined: 01/06/2007
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RV Particulars:Fleetwood Discovery, 275 Cummins, Allison 6 speed tranny.
Mileage: 34,000
Year: 2000
Getting ready for trip from NC to Fla. Two days prior had M3 (full service) on chassis. Loaded and ready to go. Engine turned over but would not start. Checked around coach smelled diesel fuel. Looked under engine and found fuel water seperator leaking. Tightened it , but engine still would not start. I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He said there was probably air in the fuel lines. He talked me through switching the ignition switch on and off at intervals to "fool" the fuel pump into thinking that the engine had started. It worked much to my amazement.
On my way from NC to rally at San Antonio, Tx. Just outside Austin, Tx
yellow check engine light came on. I immediatly pulled over and went around coach and could not find anything wrong. All gauges working properly, nothing unusual around the engine compartment. Again I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He advised that if everything was working normally that it was probably something minor. He recommended I go to a Cummins dealer in San Antonio after the rally. I did, and they found a wire broken at the intake heater. A quick fix.
Even though these were not on the road breakdowns, when something happens its good to know that someone has the knowledge to help you.
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Dave Magnusson
Surrey, British Columbia
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Joined: 02/11/2003
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Although I have been a member for a few years we have only now have an class "A" and are serious about being snow birds; I look foward to your summary.
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PF&PM
Lethbridge, Alberta
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Joined: 08/02/2007
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8.1 litre, in a Workhorse. Driving along just fine at 60mph..engine light comes on and warning says "Low Engine Power"...struggle over to a turn out shut it off, check fluids, all OK, restart every thing is OK..???Wadda..? Few days later in rain step on gas up hill engine coughs spits surges..let off gas and all OK...Wadda..?
2005 Newmar 34' Kountry Star, 8.1L W22, Blue Ox 10K, Honda Pilot, Bijon Shitzu (Sassy) dash dog. Nine Provinces, Two Territories, 47 States, Northern Mexico... so far..
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Mike Wilson
Florida
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Joined: 07/14/2005
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RV particulars: Alegro Bay
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse W22
Miles: < 8K
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Brakes sticking.
Symptoms: Apparent loss of power.
Effect: Stranded on one ocassion in southern Kentucky, had to tow RV 250 miles to Knoxville, TN.
Cause: Replaced front rotors.
Outcome: Initially no cost for the first time this happened.
Brakes stuck again, 6 months out of warranty. That is when it REALLY COST ME. Workhorse said tough luck, so after 4 new rotors, calipers, wheel sensors, and other misc stuff, it cost me $4200 out of pocket.
The dealer told me the original calipers were junk and the pistons had seezed up in the bore, causing this issue. They see this very frequently. They told me Workhorse knows it, but because it was out of warranty they would not stand behind it. Pin slides were well greased (which is what Workhorse requires annually).
I loved Workhorse prior to this. Now I will never own another Workhorse chassis, and I will make sure everyone I have the opportunity to speak with knows of my Workhorse experience. I paid the bill and imediately traded the otherwise great coach in for a deisel pusher on a Freightliner chassis.
pulsar wrote:RV particulars: 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V – Workhorse W-20 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 8.1L, Allison 1000
Miles: 20,155
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: RV began pulling to the right. We could smell what we thought was a burning electrical odor. When the brakes were applied, the MH pulled sharply to the left
Effect: We pulled off of the road at the earliest opportunity and called our road service (Coach-net) We advised not to drive further. (We were told later, that a wheel fire has resulted from similar incidence.)
Cause: Poorly designed brakes system. This Bosch ZOTS system, manufactured prior to October 2001, was used by many MH chassis manufacturers. I understand that an International chassis with this system was used on some school buses.
Outcome: Although only the brakes on one wheel locked up, the calipers, slides, and pads were replaced on all wheels. New pin kits were used. The right-front rotor was replaced.
Here is a link to a discussion of a National Highway Transportation Safety Administration investigation of these brakes.
Workhorse brake problems and NHSTA
Tom
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threedogtrip
Colorado @ 9500 ft and lovin it
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Joined: 07/14/2006
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Cummins ISB 5.9L
Allison 4 Spd
Friday:
ISB Overheated: Temps rose. High temp light on. Check engine light on. Power loss. Shut down in parking lot. Coolant blew, along with soft plug and overflow tank.
Conclusion: Water pump belt broke. Belt replaced. Added coolant, new overflow resevoir, added coolant, brought to temp. Temp stable.
Saturday:
Same symptons. Pulled onto scenic pull out.
Conclusion: Water pump probably failed (impeller?)
Will report on the rest as known.
Moral: Always carry spares belts!
Conclusion:: Water pump gone. Replaced along with thermostat.
* This post was
edited 09/28/07 08:31pm by threedogtrip *
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away.
--- Philip K. Dick
1999 Gulfstream Sunvoyager
(Our Gulfstream Home Site)
2006 Jeep Wranger
Doberlady
German Shedder Dog
Rescued Gentleman (In Spirit)
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sheba516
Donald, OR
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Joined: 01/16/2001
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>>
We have a Ford V10. We were loosing power when it rained. The first time was about 3 years ago when we were near Denver going up a hill and hit a downpour. The next time was last fall when we left NH heading for work in FL. It was raining, going up a hill when we lost power. We struggled along staying on flat roads as much as possible since the problem did not show itself then. After spending the night in a parking lot and running out of flat road, calling 'mechanics' in the FMCA membership book, we finally called Camping World back in Wilsonville, OR. Art spoke with the guy we dealt with there all the time and it came up with the problem which we had forgotten about.
Ford knows there is this design problem with their big engine: water sprays up off the road into the air filter. Mechanics even recommend you build a 'box' under it to help prevent this but we have not figured out how to do it.
When Art opened the air filter, sure enough the filter was full of water. He dumped it out, shook water out of the filter as best he could, then we were able to go. We made it from MA down to VA to my brothers praying for no more rain. When we were going thru Hartford, CA it was raining. Once we got thru town we found a shopping mall where we spent the night. The next day we made it to VA where Art bought a new filter and threw the wet one away.
This sounds like your problem. We try to avoid driving in rain, especially heavy rain although regular rain can cause the problem too.
Good luck
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gettinright
Waycross, GA ,Big Pine Key, FL
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Joined: 02/21/2004
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I just experienced a Fuel Pump Problem with the 330 Cat in my 2004 Discovery. Finally they got it repaired properly.
Would like to know if anyone else has had a Fuel Problem with CAT?
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Nelly1052
Kissimmee, Fl.
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Joined: 01/12/2004
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1995 Holiday Rambler Navigator with 8.3, 300 hp Cummins. Intermittant problem with turning over but won't start. We're sure its not getting fuel. After it starts, sometimes it stops even going down the road. Checked fuel solinoid. WE think it may be the fuel pump but we don't know if its electric or manual. Not sure where it is. Fuel filters have been replaced. We're on the road but not sure what to do. Owner took it to dealer for problem but worked perfect while there. Anybody familiar with this problem?
2004 38N Bounder DP
2004 Honda CRV toad
M&G Braking System
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