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well can't keep my same username as I am with a different email provider than the one, I signed up with over 10 years ago... Imagin that someone would change email accounts eh.. its beyond me why they can't use your current email in your profile instead of the one you signed up with. Also, I agree with a previous post, no truck camper, I can get everything else from other forums, but good truck camper forums are hard to find. Finally, is there a way to hide forums you don't want to see in the new one like we can in this one? all and all I am not sure I like the set up still, not quick for checking specific forums, get paragraphs instead of just a subject line so you have to scroll multiple pages to see what you used to in a glance. we will see
StirCrazy 11/15/23 06:33pm General RVing Issues
RE: Camper type wood burning stove for home...

here is one I used to see quite often in boats, would be perfect for a camper
StirCrazy 11/15/23 06:14pm Truck Campers
RE: How to handle RV house battery? / sparkles flying

if both were connected and you were just tightening up the positive then you accidently/unknowingly touched something with the wrench or socket. Even with a load on, if you didn't pull the wire off the terminal, you shouldn't get sparks unless it was so loose when you went to tighten it, it twisted and lost contact for a second.
StirCrazy 11/13/23 06:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Microwave failure after just 2 years...why?

Vibration is the main reason, any lower quality connectors can fail, bad solder joints fail and so on. Take your old one to a rv repair place and get them to take a look at it. The one I go to here has a 50-buck diagnostic/estimate fee that is deducted from the bill if you get the repair done. so, it costs me 50 bucks to decide if it is worth repairing or not. my microwave when it failed, was a lower quality connector that broke apart from the vibrations from traveling cost me 120 total to have it fixed and it has been working 4 years since the fix.
StirCrazy 11/13/23 06:20pm Tech Issues

I was in a few other forums that had that layout that I don't go to anymore because of the difficulty in finding new posts that interest you, so hopefully this is different.
StirCrazy 11/13/23 06:11pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ok to run shore power without battery?

Ok. I checked the converter output this morning and it’s 13.2 VDC So it’s in float mode. with a battery or without. if without it still isn't right and it won't go into any "Mode" without a battery connected as it is the state of charge of the battery that determines the load, or time at that state of charge. If this is with a battery you could be good. without. still doesn't meet specs.
StirCrazy 11/12/23 06:26pm Tech Issues
RE: We just bought a fifth wheel! Several questions ...

Thanks! We won't have access to shore power. The house will be off grid and run on solar. I'm thinking one or two batteries in the RV to charge with Renogy. I can monitor and add panels if needed. We are thinking about getting a Jackery with solar panel separately to place in the living area to charge our phones and laptop. Heating will be catalytic so no RV battery needed. Or perhaps a diesel heater once I can get around to taking on that project. What kind of electrical appliances are you thinking of running? coffee pot, toaster, microwave? That is really what you need to know to size your battery bank and the type of batteries. how cold does it get. for example, in my 5th wheel I have four 6V batteries and 480watts of solar. that will let me run the microwave and if I limit that to 10 min a day and only run the Keurig in the morning and once after supper, keep tv down to a reasonable amount and it is sunny I don't have to worry about not having power, that's even with running the propane furnace, but 2 6V will not let you draw as deep on the inverter before you get low power alarms due to the initial draw down of the battery. Four allows you to go a bit deeper while adding capacity at the same time. going to a different type of battery say LiFePO4 gives you a large capacity still and less of an effect on voltage drop but if the battery is going to get below 0C or 32F you must take that into consideration. price wise for the same usable capacity LiFePO4 is cheaper if you compare it to quality lead acid batteries, for example I just replaced my four 6V batteries in my rv with cheap batteries (220cdn each and that's cheap for decent batteries up here and that even includes the discount from where I work) good batteries say something like rolls Surrett are almost 500 each after tax but you won't find a higher quality 6V battery. Going back to my cheap ones which was the point after tax, it was about 1000cdn to put 4 in and that gives me 220 usable AH. To compare that to the price I think I can get two 100AH LifePo4 batteries for 337.00 each. Yes, they are eco worthy and cheap, but cheap LFP is still better than cheap lead acid. so, I could get 3 for the same price giving me 300 usable AH and 4 times the life, so when that cycle life is factored in, they become less than 1/4 the price of the lead acid. The other thing that will let you do more is your solar. solar panels are ridiculously cheap if you source them yourself. What I try to do is size my system to replace all the power I used in the evening and overnight by noon the next day and then run everything I use during the day maintaining my batteries at 100% until the solar charging drops off. so, on my 5th wheel I have 480 watts and it works for me as we are pretty careful about when we use the inverter and when we don't, but I can't say leave the bar fridge in the outdoor kitchen plugged in, so I am looking at doubling my solar and converting the batteries to LifePO4 with a much larger capacity to be able to do this. If you can put in the house solar system and depending how you're setting up the battery storage if you can set that up and the inverter, you can just plug into that system.
StirCrazy 11/12/23 09:31am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Ok to run shore power without battery?

I'd need to haul some serious test gear into his rig to make an "Diagnosis" but. so his 12 volts... might just be poor filtering of a supply with lots of ripple. Or it may be a very smart converter that says "Well I do not sense a battery so I'll go with the lower voltage" not really a simple multimeter would do, if you really wanted to see a wavelength a simple oscilloscope will work. He told us the model number and that's what that converter is supposed to put out as an output, from the manufacture, with no battery. We are not talking generics here but rather an actual test procedure from the manufacturer for that model. but why the heck are we talking about RMS here, that is to get the average power from an ac power form and compare it to a DC voltage, there is no DC RMS, we do get DC ripple that is introduced from components and old unfiltered systems when they are plugged in or failing but that usually presents as a higher or lower overall voltage, and same thing you need a oscilloscope to see the ripple, so a manufacture isn't going to use that as a simple test the consumer can do as while you don't need an expensive one not many people have purchased a oscilloscope for their home tool box.
StirCrazy 11/12/23 08:57am Tech Issues
RE: Ok to run shore power without battery?

The 12.9 was with the battery disconnected. (In fact the battery was at the NAPA shop miles away??) Looks like one vote for “it’s ok to run without a battery” and one vote for “you should put in a battery” Anyone else wanna break the tie? And if I really do need a battery to protect the system should it be a deep cycle RV battery or a plain old car battery, knowing it will never be without shore power. looks like your converter is fried. should be 13.6 to 13.7 with no battery hooked up. so, you likely need a new converter and a new battery
StirCrazy 11/11/23 06:26am Tech Issues
RE: LiFePO4 battery build

so my replacement cell should be here today, but now I am faced with another disision which I am going to go to some of the other people that have LifePO4 batteries they have build them selves for their opinion. JBD BMS (also sold rebranded as Overkill) are a good BMS. I have been happy with the one I have in my other battery but now there is Jk on the scene. This is the one I have, it is no longer available, but I bought two when I got my original one. JBD 150 amp this is the one I am thinking of buying a couple of and replacing what I am using now. The main reason is for the 2A active cell balancing feature over the passive balancing feature of my original BMS. Plus, the reviews on JK BMS have been amazing and the app is set up much nicer. so, for those that have built their own batteries, would you go with an external 2-amp active balancer if you were building a new battery, or would you go with an active one built into the BMS
StirCrazy 11/09/23 08:27am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: how delicate and fussy are LFP batteries

not much data. Too bad. outdoor winter in Las Vegas would be long sleeved shirt for me. not at night, the average low in December Jan and feb is from -3 (dec, -2jan, and -1 Feb.) It was there for 2.5 years, so it was south facing against a cement wall during the summer also so looking at the high temperature charging also. the main point is that for the two seasons it was charging and discharging outside what people have been saying will kill your battery very quickly if not immediately (yes even you are on record for saying that PT) what we saw in this video was a 6% loss in capacity for probably the worst-case scenario high temp at 100% capacity for storage. but the more interesting part is the recommendations of using the full capacity with LifePO4 and charging to 100% for long term storage as the battery will calendar age out (20 to 30 years) before the normal person cycle ages it out
StirCrazy 11/09/23 08:06am Tech Issues
how delicate and fussy are LFP batteries

well since there are some people that think if you look at your LFP batteries the wrong way that they're going to die, here is a good video with some insight on how much you have to baby them Steve
StirCrazy 11/07/23 06:26pm Tech Issues
RE: water pump

My battery box is on the outside. The step is secured down, I felt around for screws and can’t find any. It seems to be stapled down. But I don’t want to reef on it any harder then I already have if it screws or something and can’t find them. looks like they may have moved a few things around over the years. Did you look in the basement and under the bathroom sink? Generally, they are very close to the freshwater tank.
StirCrazy 11/06/23 06:09pm Truck Campers
RE: LiFePO4 battery build

Stir I probably won't have SiO2 either. My existing bank may well outlast my ownership of my class C. I know prices have dropped--but I want at least 500 amp-hours. That's over four grand. yup they are expensive, and their curve isn't as closely matched as LFP for 12V, but they work. I just don't like the form factor they are available in as they are more work to mount and such.
StirCrazy 11/05/23 06:28pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: LiFePO4 battery build

stir find me an LifePo4 that works reliably at -40 with no "self heating". The only one I know of is Lithium titinate which is way beyond my budget. (at the time $1800 for a single 100 amp-hour) I'm glad your choice works well for you. SiO2 are a much better fit for me except for cost. which is exactly why I am surprised your even comenting on this thread, you have dmisitidly stated you will never have LFP as you won't make alowances to make them work by putting them in the conditiond space or other simple things, so why are you interested in a thread on how to build one, I am actualy curious. actualy LTO has come down a lot in price you can get 45AH cells for 39 bucks each and it takes 6 to make a 12V battery. so you could do a 90AH battery for about 684.00 plus what ever your BMS for that costs.
StirCrazy 11/04/23 06:15pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: LiFePO4 battery build

StirCrazy nice size battery bank. The only thing I'm going to disagree on slightly is the cells heating up. As I have posted before I fulltime in the 5th wheel living off of 500ah lfp batteries and 1,280w solar. This setup has been going for 7 years 7 months now in everday use never been turned off. My longest strech of consecutive boondocking was 1,017 days. As of today we have hit a 2 year stretch of consecutive boondocking. The only time I've seen the cells heat up is when using the gen/ inverter charger and charging at 100a for more than anhour and then the cells only get 10f warmer. Any other time whether using microwave or other appliances the cells might climbed a dregree or so but nothing enough to make a difference. My batteries, inverter, SCC is all in the front compartment of the 5th wheel. I have used foam board insulation on the walls. Used Reflectixs, foam board, 1/2" rubber mat on the floof of compartment and tapped into a heat duct above the batteries and dropped a tubedown towards the battery. This has made the biggest difference keeping the batteries warm in that compartment. I was just in Utah for a few days of night times of high teens and daytime of upper 40s. Cells were at 46-55f. Me personally that's as cold as I like it and have moved further south now for winter. If I were somewhere that I couldn't run from the extreme cold the batteries would be in the 5th wheel somewhere staying as warm as me. Keep us updated on the build. Thanks:) ya that weird, I get about 8 to 10 degrees when its that cold in the camper. I supose some heat could hav been radiating from the wet bath shell into the storage space they used to be in. I know a lot of people I know in alberta just use a good cooler on there trailer tounge with a silicone heating pas that only comes on when it gets to 0 inside and they tell me when they are on their skidooing trips at -10 to -25C they hardly ever see the silicone heater come on.
StirCrazy 11/04/23 06:08pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: LiFePO4 battery build

Stir thanks for the link. I'm glad you posted some of the details. I can't read what ever language they have. They are close to my needs but..close only counts in horseshoes and curling. I have done more than a few 10 day trips where the daily high was below -30. well, that's why it is in Chinese and English. you keep fixating on the outside temperature. that has nothing to do with whether the batteries will work or not for you. well, it has an influence. It's the actual battery temperature that matters, as in the internal temp. So, with a BMS that has a built-in heat control and having the batteries in an insulated space (even one that receives heat from the rv) you would have no problem. You could have the BMS heat the internal temperature of the battery to -30 then run the furnace. As you start using the battery, they make their own heat also which warms them up even more. before I moved my 280AH batter to an interior place in my camper I had it in the uninsulated exterior storage that gets pretty darn cold and at -10C (nighttime temps) the internal temp of the battery was still above 5C so I didn't have any issues as the act of running the furnace and lights was enough to keep the battery warm. Now that it is inside the camper there is even less of an issue as it is only cold when I first go somewhere and being able to discharge at 0.25C at -30C is more than I will ever need to start the furnace and warm everything up.
StirCrazy 11/04/23 09:00am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: water pump

How do you get the step off above the water pump to access it on an adventure 910? I think the 910 has the box of the battery compartment under the step, doesn't it?
StirCrazy 11/04/23 08:46am Truck Campers
RE: LiFePO4 battery build

stir, Do you have a link to these -35 F cells? here is the Data sheet for my cells. when you want real info, you go by the data sheet not the sales info from middlemen. I do have to find out what they define pulse discharge as. At -35 you can only pulse discharge at 0.8C which for me to start my furnace and warm up the cells is fine as I would only draw 0.01C, but for continuous discharge you must be at -30 or warmer and you can draw 0.25C continuous. I guess they define pulse as a 30 second blast, so I think if I ever planed on camping at -35, which I won't I have done once and nothing works good in the rv, even the propane is sluggish, but I would put heating mats on the battery with a 30 second on off timer to bring it up to -30 in the battery pack then I could have at it. but for the record camping in -30 isn't much fun either... I don't mind lows of -15 at night but beyond that it isn't camping its just surviving. haha
StirCrazy 11/03/23 06:30am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: How much capacity is lost if converter isn't Li-friendly?

I don't have a dog in this discussion, but Lithium scares me with all the fires that have taken place. (Geezers get worried over nothing.) I think I will stay with the lead/acid and genset. LiFePO4 is not a chemistry that is susceptible to thermal runaway and fires. While it is possible you pretty much have to shove an iron spike right through its shorting out all the internal layers and even then, it is mostly a smoke show. don't confuse Nicad and nickel metal hydride with LifePo4
StirCrazy 11/03/23 06:20am Tech Issues
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