Boon Docker

Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta

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Joined: 10/30/2015

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Good to hear, saves you some cash.
Thanks for the update.
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MrWizard

Traveling

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Joined: 06/27/2004

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More amps up to the limit the batteries can accept, will make for faster recharging, making for a shorter generator runtime ,
But it will not make for less fuel use aka Bang 4 the Buck ",
Full load on any generator is not the most efficient mode using the least fuel and less wear on the engine, full load is the least efficient mode, working the hardest and using the most fuel, it does get the most work possible completed in the shortest amount of time,
Its a trade off
More noise go for a short time, or small hum in the background for more time, if camping in a location with limited generator hours, I'll choose full bore max charging,
Other places I'll choose slow an easy, with less noise ,
But I've run full on for an hr or 2 in the morning, before leaving for the days activities, knowing i won't be there to keep them in safe state of charge
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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^ That’s sort of picking fly sht out of pepper, but true, I spose. The reality is if these type of minute things are something someone pines over, they need another hobby or activity.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Boon Docker wrote: Good to hear, saves you some cash.
Thanks for the update.
??
Not if he’s just double stacking a bigger better converter. Literally no point in keepin the original converter if piggy backing another converter.
Now a low buck charger (which don’t really exist for a good higer amp LFP charger) could save a buck and be a decent stop gap. But why?
One and done it replace the WFCo with a PD and walk away. Also less work and hassle than adding additional circuits.
Or did I misread something ?
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theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Buy a GOOD quality inverter/charger/automatic transfer switch. Remove the converter and wire the DC fuse panel directly to the house battery bank (using a large fuse close the the battery bank).
Wire the shore power cable directly to the inlet of the inverter. Wire the outlet of the inverter to your AC breaker panel.
DONE !
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Boon Docker

Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta

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Grit dog wrote: Boon Docker wrote: Good to hear, saves you some cash.
Thanks for the update.
??
Not if he’s just double stacking a bigger better converter. Literally no point in keepin the original converter if piggy backing another converter.
Now a low buck charger (which don’t really exist for a good higer amp LFP charger) could save a buck and be a decent stop gap. But why?
One and done it replace the WFCo with a PD and walk away. Also less work and hassle than adding additional circuits.
Or did I misread something ?
The reply was that his old charger is LI compatible which would have saved him some cash.
* This post was
edited 01/25/23 04:08pm by Boon Docker *
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Boon Docker

Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta

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..
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Grit dog

Black Diamond, WA

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Boon Docker wrote: ..
Apologies, I quoted you but wasn’t questioning your response.
It was in reference to the OP who is planning to idk, stack converters.
And furthermore he doesn’t even know if his current converter is doing the job or not.
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Boon Docker

Mountain Foothills of Southern Alberta

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No harm, no foul.
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Fisherguy

Vancouver BC

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Grit dog wrote: Boon Docker wrote: ..
Apologies, I quoted you but wasn’t questioning your response.
It was in reference to the OP who is planning to idk, stack converters.
And furthermore he doesn’t even know if his current converter is doing the job or not.
Stack converters?
We've had this trailer a whole 2 weeks and it's the middle of winter here so excuse me if I don't have any 'real world' experience with it yet and am looking for advice!
I said I'd probly leave the WFCO in place as a back up on it's own breaker and add another charger up closer to the batteries.
Is that OK with you?
* This post was
edited 01/25/23 07:23pm by Fisherguy *
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