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 > Can you name that sound (squeaking)?

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SJ-Chris

San Jose, Ca

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Posted: 11/27/22 05:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

klutchdust wrote:

enblethen wrote:

Another possibility is a warped brake rotor.


A warped brake rotor will also give you a "pulsating" pedal when applying the brakes. "dragging" your brakes or riding your brakes going downhill is an easy way to do that.


Good suggestion/tip.
I do not feel any pulsing while braking so hopefully my rotors are okay.

My hope is that it is simply the brake pads (squealer tab).

-Chris


San Jose, CA
Own two 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RVs

SJ-Chris

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Posted: 11/27/22 05:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

valhalla360 wrote:

Had a weird thing like this where it didn't match the RPM, sometimes it happened, sometimes it didn't on our V10 F250.

Didn't believe it until the mechanic changed it but the idler pully was going bad.


Thanks for the suggestion. I will keep idler pulley on my potential list of suspects.

-Chris

Grit dog

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Posted: 11/28/22 06:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it was the brakes, and it could be a harmless brake squeal, the noise would change or go away if you ride the brakes a little while maintaining speed. So not likely brakes.
If it’s not rpm sensitive then not likely to be the accessories or belt.
It’s not random, it’s rotational, so can likely rule out odd non moving parts squeaks as suggested it may be.
If I read your dash right, 111k miles. If it’s on original u joints or carrier bearing then those are the likely culprits. U joints can dry out and if very mild/shallow driveline angles (like a long RV) the u joints dont exercise much and can go a long time before actually showing other signs of pending failure.
After 100k miles u joints and carrier bearings are nearing the end of their service life, frequently.
But you have to get under it and diagnose. Any grease splatter or rusty dust around u joint cups is a sure diagnosis. Any slop in carrier bearing or torn rubber is as well.

* This post was edited 11/28/22 06:58am by Grit dog *


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30sweeds

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Posted: 11/30/22 07:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have hub caps? Check for the edge of the cap squeaking against the tire.Sounds crazy but mine had a wheel speed squeak and that's all it was.Was about ready to pull everything apart till I accidentally figured it out.

SJ-Chris

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Posted: 11/30/22 12:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

30sweeds wrote:

Have hub caps? Check for the edge of the cap squeaking against the tire.Sounds crazy but mine had a wheel speed squeak and that's all it was.Was about ready to pull everything apart till I accidentally figured it out.


Glad you were able to figure that out before pulling everything apart! Nice when a fix ends up being easier than we thought...

On this RV, I do not have hub caps. So that isn't it. But thanks for mentioning it as it might help someone else.

-Chris

SJ-Chris

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Posted: 11/30/22 12:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

If it was the brakes, and it could be a harmless brake squeal, the noise would change or go away if you ride the brakes a little while maintaining speed. So not likely brakes.
If it’s not rpm sensitive then not likely to be the accessories or belt.
It’s not random, it’s rotational, so can likely rule out odd non moving parts squeaks as suggested it may be.
If I read your dash right, 111k miles. If it’s on original u joints or carrier bearing then those are the likely culprits. U joints can dry out and if very mild/shallow driveline angles (like a long RV) the u joints dont exercise much and can go a long time before actually showing other signs of pending failure.
After 100k miles u joints and carrier bearings are nearing the end of their service life, frequently.
But you have to get under it and diagnose. Any grease splatter or rusty dust around u joint cups is a sure diagnosis. Any slop in carrier bearing or torn rubber is as well.


Thanks for your suggestion. I continue to learn along the way...
I don't know much about u joints and carrier bearings. I did find this interesting article about u joints:
https://www.halesautomotive.com/news/shop-news/40-store-news/905-what-are-u-joints-and-how-can-you-diagnose-a-bad-one
I will try the test they suggest, and also look underneath the vehicle as you suggest. When driving, I do not feel clunking or jerkiness, so I'll be a little surprised if this is the issue.

I also had to look up Carrier Bearings... Here is what I found:

"Carrier Bearing—A carrier bearing is located on the axles or driveshaft and is integral to how the car operates. Its job is simply to keep the axle or driveshaft tightly in place and reduce vibrations. Worn carrier bearings can cause rumbling or whirling sounds for acceleration above twenty miles per hour."

Hmmmmm....the "whirling sounds for acceleration above twenty miles per hour" does describe my symptom. Also a good read:
https://www.driveshaftsoftulsa.com/blogs/news/symptoms-of-a-failing-support-bearing

I learned a lot about u-joints and carrier bearings when I found this video:
https://blog.1aauto.com/how-to-check-bad-carrier-bearings/

Now I know where/how to look. I'll have to investigate further.

Thanks!
Chris

enblethen

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Posted: 11/30/22 01:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

op's first link
OP's 2nd link
If you are able to or have a helper, both u-joints and carrier bearings can be tested by touch. drive a few miles then quickly go under rig and feel the u-joints and carrier. if they are hot, they are bad.
Can be done with no touch thermometer.


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Posted: 11/30/22 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

had a similar sound years back... It was the U-joint... my "82" Ford F350 ate them up ! got good at changing them on the fly also... that is until I fixed the underlying issue that was causing them to go bad.....


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Grit dog

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Posted: 11/30/22 03:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chris
In your case I presume it’s a 2 piece rear driveshaft. The carrier bearing is the “support” about halfway down the driveshaft. Any torn rubber in the mount or any physical play up and down or laterally is evidence that it is worn out or failing.
U joints probably 3 on the rear ds, the best method is good if you don’t see any physical evidence.
With u joints wear and failure, the following symptoms are the general stages from good to broken
1. Grease has dried out gone away. One or more u joint cups will be warmer than the others and may squeak at certain speeds. Generally lower speeds. If they were in a 4wd front axle you would feel them binding when you turn the steering wheel while driving. Slight back n forth in the steering wheel.
2. May still squeak but dry bearing cups will rust and you’ll see evidence of new rust around the cup seals.
3. They physically are worn enough to clunk or physically feel slop between the u joint and the bearing cups.
4. They west to the point that they break or come apart.

Generally vehicles with good shallow driveline angles will go a long time on a bad u joint. Thousands of miles potentially . Because the u joint rotates very little. Maybe only a couple degrees each direction as the drive shaft rotates.
U joints are generally fairly easy to replace with home hand tools and a big vice. Sometimes a press will be needed. Carrier bearings are also easy although sometimes they must be pressed on and off the driveshaft.
Hope this helps.

SJ-Chris

San Jose, Ca

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Posted: 12/01/22 02:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

Chris
In your case I presume it’s a 2 piece rear driveshaft. The carrier bearing is the “support” about halfway down the driveshaft. Any torn rubber in the mount or any physical play up and down or laterally is evidence that it is worn out or failing.
U joints probably 3 on the rear ds, the best method is good if you don’t see any physical evidence.
With u joints wear and failure, the following symptoms are the general stages from good to broken
1. Grease has dried out gone away. One or more u joint cups will be warmer than the others and may squeak at certain speeds. Generally lower speeds. If they were in a 4wd front axle you would feel them binding when you turn the steering wheel while driving. Slight back n forth in the steering wheel.
2. May still squeak but dry bearing cups will rust and you’ll see evidence of new rust around the cup seals.
3. They physically are worn enough to clunk or physically feel slop between the u joint and the bearing cups.
4. They west to the point that they break or come apart.

Generally vehicles with good shallow driveline angles will go a long time on a bad u joint. Thousands of miles potentially . Because the u joint rotates very little. Maybe only a couple degrees each direction as the drive shaft rotates.
U joints are generally fairly easy to replace with home hand tools and a big vice. Sometimes a press will be needed. Carrier bearings are also easy although sometimes they must be pressed on and off the driveshaft.
Hope this helps.


Thanks for the details!

We just started 5 days of rain, so I won't be looking under there for at least another week. I will keep people posted.

-Chris

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