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RE: 2020 grey wolf TH poor AC
Do you have a thermometer? If so, what temperature does the AC put out at the vent nearest the unit. It should be 30 or more degrees colder than the outside air. If it isn’t, first step is to be sure all the fins and filters are clean. Be sure it isn’t icing up due to running continuously. If that doesn’t help, time for professional or maybe replacement.
If the unit is cooling at the vents, time to start insulating the rig and defeating solar gain. Park in the shade if possible. Keep blinds shut. Pull all curtains shut. Avoid putting heat and moisture in the rig . Things l like cooking, doing laundry and showering and opening and closing by the door multiple times all go towards defeating air conditioning.
The hard truth is most RVs are not well suited for temperature extremes. The chassis build is not sufficiently insulated, the windows are not thermally efficient, and by default even the undercarriage is exposed to the elements unlike a standard residence that is attached to the ground. Florida in the summer is just as taxing on RV climate systems as North Dakota is in the winter. It can be a losing battle.
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wapiticountry
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08/13/23 10:55am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Financing Rates These Days
Agree with way2roll ... you'll probably keep the truck longer than the RV, and if not, they are separate so you can split them if you need to change one or the other. Probably get better rate on the truck too, for shorter term. You will also get a better trade on the truck later, if you decide to do it.
With the mack daddy setup that this dude has been “trying” to purchase and bellyaching about for a while now, I’d hope it’s the combo he wants to keep for a good long time…
For 3/4% difference. Finance the RV, unless it’s your only home. That way if something happens and the bank comes calling at least you still have wheels! Or vice versa if it’s the primary roof over your head.
Still tryin to figure out what the question really is. The rate is going to be what HE qualifies for. Regardless of what anyone else’s experience is. And to that end can find current rates published literally everywhere. And appears to have financed multiple RVs in the past, albeit for the same rate each time?
If you must know, my score is usually in the high 700s with an occasional bump over 800. And yes, I have had 4.99% on every camper I've financed in the past. But that is not how things are these days.
Few things in life are certain. A few that are is there will always be someone posting they have higher credit scores than everyone else. They got lower financing rates and their investments out perform everyone . They always get a bigger discount on purchases and what they purchase is better than anything else on the market. Seeking such information on this and similar forums is a fool’s errand.
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wapiticountry
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08/13/23 10:37am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Selling an RV/payment
I have found this thread very interesting and enlightening. I think banking laws have changed a lot since some have bought/sold. I know they have since I last needed a large amount of actual cash ($10K and up is a large amount, under $10K and that is able to be acquired given a few weeks). I think I might want to look into the escrow/title thing to get a bit more info.
My daughter and I look at online ads for RVs that are for sale in a 500 mile radius from us. She has asked about the "Cash" payment request. I have told her I assume that the seller means they won't finance the purchase, not that actual folding paper is required.
Since we both use the same online bank (Schwab), any purchase would have to be either a personal check or an online transfer. Our bank does not have an actual building in any state. We get actual cash from the registers at Walmart ($100 per transaction). Takes a while to come up with a substantial amount of cash. Nowadays, it takes minutes for a check to clear. Before I bought an expensive item like a vehicle, I would contact my bank to see how they would suggest I handle the payment. Except when the site is undergoing maintenance, I can transfer account to account, within my bank, in less than 5 minutes. I have transferred from my bank account to another "outside" bank account in the same business day or on the next business day.
My daughter paid actual cash for both her truck ($3400) and the truck camper (under $2K). They were priced pretty low so cash wasn't an issue.
My bus shell was paid for with cash (I had $2K all in $20s, banded in packs of $100 with two packs of $50 in $5's and $10s so we could dicker the price down). My Jeep was bought thru an auto auction. As private buyers, we had to pay cash. Only registered dealers could pay with a check. I went with $10K in a backpack. I paid $6000 + $600 for my Jeep (in 1998). A year before, I had the same amount in my backpack and picked up a mini van for $500 but I didn't like driving the van so I sold it for $500 and got the Jeep. I still have and drive the Jeep. At the time we banked with Bank of America. The branch my husband dealt with mostly was in a small town with many wealthy out-of-state customers. It took a while to remove the $10K from the bank in cash because they flat out told my husband that they only paid out "small" lumps of cash. They simply didn't keep large amounts of cash on hand. Even large banks don't keep lot of cash on hand. Their insurance doesn't allow them to keep over a percentage of their normal operating cash.
When my father would get paid in actual cash, he always had problems depositing it. This was for extensive and expensive tile jobs in multi-million dollar houses (like I said, "wealthy out-of-state") that were built, never lived in and sold for a profit (aka "money laundering"). We are pretty sure that he was being paid with drug money. Once he was paid all in $1K bills. The $1K bills looked new, looked fake, felt fake but his bank said they were good. And that bank was not terribly comfortable taking in all that cash. They had to sit on it until the armored truck outfit showed up on schedule to take it away. No one wanted $1K bills. Too hard to move around in the economy. $100 and smaller is better and more spendable.
As for the long-gone OP, it sounds like he is hiding assets from a divorce. It sounded off and I would have assumed it was a scam.$1000.00 bills are worth more than the face value, often many time more. Taking them to a bank to deposit instead of an expert in numismatics is potentially throwing away a massive amount of money.
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wapiticountry
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08/10/23 03:39pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: RV A/C Efficiencies
Instead of trying to improve the efficiency of the AC unit, it is much more efficient to to prevent heat infiltration. Things like being sure any air leaks are sealed. Windows are shaded or covered during the heat of the day. Park in the shade. If possible, don’t have the large glass portions of the rig facing west. Limit opening of doors, don’t put extra heat or humidity inside by showering, cooking or doing laundry in the heat of the day.
As for the AC be sure the fins on the unit are clean, all the filters are clean , and if possible, don’t create a cooling deficit by turning the AC way up or off during the day and then try to catch up when you return.
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wapiticountry
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08/04/23 04:24pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Selling an RV/payment
There is at least one escrow company that would do it. My son used them with a sticky situation buying a jet ski for $12,000. The sticky part was the son co-owned the jetski with his dad whose name was on the title and there was a lien. The dad was in on the deal, wasn't shady or anything and the dad and son both cooperated. So my son used an on-line escrow service to handle it. No money was delivered until the title was released and transferred cleanly, then the money was paid. When I bought my new moho from a private individual, he suggested I look into it. I did and they would have handled the transaction, which was over $100,000. But in the end, my investment account wired the money to the seller's bank. They owned it free and clear with a good title, so that worked best.
DaleThis seller adamantly refuses to accept a wire transfer as payment. Therefore that transaction wouldn’t work for him.
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wapiticountry
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08/04/23 04:14pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Selling an RV/payment
Interesting thread.
If the OP is by chance still observing, one way to avoid 99.99% of the hassle / risk of banks / cashier's checks / cash reporting would be to have a title company (or the escrow department of banks that still offer the service) simply undertake an escrow service: will add a few days to the transaction time, but eliminates risk and (IMNSHO) lots of hassle.
Don’t think there are Escrow companies that pay out $45,000 in cash. They wire or use cashiers checks. For some reason the poster wants to instantly have a big stack of greenbacks, nothing else.
Actually, the OP (who hasn't been back near as I can tell) said: "I will ask buyer to give me cashier's check of a bank that has local, branch, I think. I want to be able to go to the branch in person and cash the check and also first verify that the check is good, before I sign the title over.
Had anyone done a sale like this? What are the steps with cashier's check handling to make sure one won't get defrauded?"
Escrow avoids fraud and the seller could take the Title Co's check to the local bank and cash that if they wanted cash...but that would of course trigger the scrutiny of the regulators The title company I have used for multiple transactions wires the proceeds to my account. They are not a bank so they cannot issue a cashier’s check. They also state that any cashiers check used to pay for a purchase are held for a substantial period of time ( I don’t remember if it is seven or ten days) which is why they request all transactions be wire transfers so as to not delay a closing. I have also gotten some checks from them months later after the property’s taxes were finalized and those checks were just plain company checks, not any kind of cashiers or certified instrument. And even if they did get a cashiers check, a non customer of the bank it was drawn ion would have a very difficult time getting $45,000 in cash. Due both to the risks of fraud, forgery etc. and the fact branches just don’t keep that much cash on hand.
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wapiticountry
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08/04/23 04:11pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Unsolicited want to buy your RV people
If the rig has been parked for months, I can see why people might inquire as to whether you might want to sell. And if you have a desirable property, why not? The worst that the inquiry could produce is a firm “no”. One of the parks I owned was bought exactly that way, I asked the owners if they would consider selling and we worked out a deal that worked for both of us. Asking if something is for sale could work out for both parties.
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wapiticountry
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08/02/23 09:40am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Selling an RV/payment
Interesting thread.
If the OP is by chance still observing, one way to avoid 99.99% of the hassle / risk of banks / cashier's checks / cash reporting would be to have a title company (or the escrow department of banks that still offer the service) simply undertake an escrow service: will add a few days to the transaction time, but eliminates risk and (IMNSHO) lots of hassle.
Don’t think there are Escrow companies that pay out $45,000 in cash. They wire or use cashiers checks. For some reason the poster wants to instantly have a big stack of greenbacks, nothing else.
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wapiticountry
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07/31/23 12:03pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Selling an RV/payment
Like previously posted, most bank branches aren’t going to have $45,000 in cash. And if they did, they aren’t going to cash a cashiers check for that high an amount for a non customer, even if it’s their own cashiers check. About the only way to have this style transaction go smooth and safe would be to tell the buyer to meet at his bank where he can have it arranged the cash is available and he withdraws that amount from his account and gives it to you on the spot. Hopefully you have an extremely desirable rig priced too good to be true because your need to not involve a bank is going to run off 99 out of a hundred potential buyers.
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wapiticountry
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07/29/23 05:34pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Looking for suggestions on our 14 day trip to the southeast
Make sure your AC is in perfect working condition. And pack extra antiperspirant.
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wapiticountry
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07/02/23 07:35am |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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RE: Observations - Local RV Dealer.
The cost of virtually everything involved in manufacturing an RV has increased dramatically. MSRP (manufacturer’s suggested retail price) is just that, a suggested price. There are no laws governing how that number is derived. That being said it isn’t number that is just pulled from the air. It has to be a number that leaves the retail dealer a fair profit and yet is not so high as to turn away prospective buyers. It has much more validity than some random person saying it’s 30% too high.
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wapiticountry
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04/29/23 10:10am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Reroute Lot Sewer Pipes
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.
Sounds like a plan......... if that's the scenario. As I said above, hopefully it will be that easy.
Yes--maybe a bit over the top, but without seeing the job, it could be a piece of cake, or a nightmare. Too many variables, and just pointing out a few possibilities since it's obvious that OP has no experience with this kind of thing.
The guy said he currently just has to lay a hose across the yard to the drop. That implies it isn’t up a steep hill or over the side of a cliff. And while it is true excessive slope can cause problems, on such a short run where the line will likely be periodically flushed with larger flows (emptying gray tank after black) a moderately steep slope would still function. Unless the yard is solid rock this is a duo or handyman type of job. No need for engineers, permits, plumbers, excavation contractors etc.
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wapiticountry
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04/22/23 08:45am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Reroute Lot Sewer Pipes
I think you are over complicating it. I assume you only want to move the connection a minimal distance. Assuming the current lateral line isn’t almost at the surface, just dig down exposing two or three feet of the upright. Cut it and install a tee. Trench a lateral line from there to where you want it. The slope only needs to be 1/4 inch per foot of lateral line. You can move the connection nearly 50 feet with only a foot of slope. Put a long sweep 90 and attach the upright with a sewer cap. Back at the original it would be wise to run up an upright from the tee and cap it with a threaded clean out plug. You could even bury it a few inches if you want a smooth yard. Just be sure you note where it is so you can uncover it if you ever need to snake the line. Placing a piece of metal on top before burying is a great tip since it can easily be located with a metal detector. Twists and turns really don’t matter as long as you keep them gradual and remember the first rule of plumbing: Sheet flows downhill.
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wapiticountry
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04/21/23 12:51pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: 30 vs 50 amp electrical issue help
Well, the plot thickens. I just got off of the phone with Heart land I asked them to look up my build based on VIN.
They told me that my trailer was supposed to be shipped with the 50 amp cord that I have but that there is supposed to be an “adapter” between cord and trailer. He stated that the trailer itself is 30 amp but when I told him that I want to run a second AC he said that will be no problem at all.
I asked if this is some kind of hybrid between 50 and 30 and he said yes exactly.
So everything in my trailer is 120v…. And it’s 30 amp but supposedly I can run 2 ACs?
I was hoping for clarification but this makes the whole thing even more convoluted.
I talked to my sales guy and he said that was the craziest thing he’d ever heard, I don’t know much but I have to agree with him!
Well, it appears that both Heartland AND the Dealer will lie to fix this problem. What Heartland told you is NONSENSE. YOU CANNOT RUN 2 RV AC UNITS ON 30 AMP SERVICE. PERIOD. You stated MY link is the wall connection to your trailer. That is 50 amp. Period. You need to go to the trailer and open the 120 breaker box access lid. Until YOU do this, there can be no good resolution to this thread. IF your breaker box has (2) 50 amp breakers, your RV IS 50 amp. Doug
PS, I had a Jayco electrical engineer tell me that I could NOT add a 3rd AC to a customers 39 foot Jayco with 50 amp service, because 3 AC's would draw about 42 amps and that would leave only 8 amps for the rest of the RV. I e mailed his boss and told him that person needed to be FIRED. 50 amp RV service is a TOTAL of 100 amp service.
Wow, a guy makes a mistake and you email his boss telling him the guy should be fired. How many hours would you last at your job if one mistake and you are out was the standard.
And the guy wasn’t totally incorrect. 50 amp service is not referred to as having 100 amps available. Care would have be be taken in wiring the third AC to assure it was not on the same leg as the other two units, or that leg would draw 42 amps which overloads a fifty amp circuit since continuous duty rating is 80% of the maximum rating. Load balancing would be critical and depending on how many other high amperage items (hot water heater, electric cooktop, microwave, other electric appliances etc.) it may indeed be problematic adding a third AC unit especially if there is no load management system. Actually there is nothing in the electrical codes that would prevent adding 20 AC units since the lines are protected by the 50 amp breakers. Of course such a system would be useless because you would be tripping breakers constantly, but it wouldn’t be a code violation. . It is reasonable the engineer was talking in practical, not theoretical terms, and he very well may have been correct that adding a third AC unit to that specific rig, would be a problem due to power management.
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wapiticountry
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04/20/23 08:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hospital RV park closing
The local hotels must have complained about the competition. Local hotel associations are usually behind ordinances that prohibit overnight RV parking at places like Cracker Barrel and Bass Pro that have a high tourist rate. Although people are at a the hospital for a reason these associations want to force people into their high priced accommodations instead of allowing the convenience and affordability to families of patients in the hospital for treatment of some sort...they want your money is all.
Do you have any references to back up such a claim? It has been my experience that bans are primarily generated by local governments in response to the need for police to have the ability to prevent vagrants and homeless from taking up residence. Without such laws the police have limited authority even if the property owner prohibits overnighting.
As for the hospital, I think it is very, very unlikely a hotel operator would go to the city council and claim people staying on the hospital grounds while they or family members are getting treatment is negatively effecting their business. It much more likely he hospital either had problems with people who were not using the facilities staying or the hospital needs that area for normal parking or expansion. Or maybe Luke someone else already posted, it simply wasn’t being used.
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wapiticountry
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04/13/23 08:54am |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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RE: Flying J/Pilot oil
That stupid Canadian Government kept the percentage of cases 1/3 of that in USA. That figure is reached by dividing the population into the number of cases.
If Canada had truly closed the border the numbers may have been much lower.
And let’s not forget Don that those ‘stupid’ measures resulted in *no* flu season either.
In a typical year about a dozen children die of influenza, in the 2020 / 2021 season there was ZERO deaths and not even a single case bad enough to require an ICU stay.
Agreed, the world would be a much safer place if everyone just locked themselves in a room and tossed away the key. As a matter of fact there is nothing stopping you from doing it today, even if the lockdowns, mandates and restrictions have been lifted for the general public. To paraphrase Dr. Spock, you would live long, just not prosper.
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wapiticountry
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04/07/23 09:44am |
Snowbirds
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RE: Underground 250ft run
past wthose points it was on my dime to contract with a locate service to mark any underground lines since those are technically my responsibility.Understood. My question remains.
It may be as simple as saying their definition of public right of ways and yours differ. The utility providers have easements to allow access to their lines that cross your property. This not only includes the lines to your meters but any other line that may transit your property. Transmission lines often do not follow roads and often bisect private property. It’s possible In utility company jargon an easement may be referred to as public access.
The fact that transmission lines may cross your property is a good reason to call for location services before trenching even if your personal utilities are far from the excavation site.
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wapiticountry
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04/05/23 08:31am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Underground 250ft run
Lol. You’re upset that a public utility company won’t go above and beyond to do favors for every private landowner with their own private utilities that are of no responsibility to nor any control of by the utility company?And you're upset that I'm upset. I can always count on you for a smart-aleck answer.
What I don't get is that they post these signs "Call before you dig", but, if they only locate up to private property, that would indicate they only locate in the public right-of-way. Why would I be digging up the public right-of-way?
What am I missing here?
Anytime I had locates they marked to the service entry points. That would be to the meter for water electric and gas and to the junction box on the house for cable and phone. Past wthose points it was on my dime to contract with a locate service to mark any underground lines since those are technically my responsibility.
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wapiticountry
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04/03/23 04:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: buying RV out of state - what contract to use / other advise
Hi guys! Finally I am ready for my first RV but how to choose? What is the best affordable option?
A tentactually a tarp is even cheaper. And if that stretches the budget you can always just build a lean to out of branches.
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wapiticountry
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04/03/23 02:34pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Yellowstone closed roads?
As in the previous post, check the road opening dates, it’s still winter in Montana. Also be aware if you choose to go out the North entrance the road is a temporary road to replace the road that was washed out last year. It may or may not be usable for a large RV towing. It has some steep sections and some extremely sharp corners. I wouldn’t be shocked if restrictions were to be put into place in the near future. (It only opened in October so there has been virtually no tourist traffic yet)
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wapiticountry
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04/03/23 09:33am |
Roads and Routes
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