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RE: Class C without a house battery bank???

Ok that makes better sense. When I’m 88 i probably won’t remember that i ever owned rvs. Good luck have a safe trip.
bobndot 01/22/23 11:18am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C without a house battery bank???

Denbie1, is the seller actually the owner or is the owner not able to be in the picture for whatever reason ? Could the seller be a relative doing the transaction for the unavailable owner and really has no idea about rv’s ? Or is a scam in place ? Playing dumb ? You need to find out before you waste your time making the trip. Ask for the vin # and see what they say.
bobndot 01/22/23 08:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C without a house battery bank???

As said, If the rig comes standard with two 6v batts then there must be a tray for them. Probably under the entrance steps. Confirm with the seller. Ask why there are no house batteries there now. If all was/is in working order then the seller should at least have some kind of 12v battery in place to show a buyer that things are in working order. Have him send you a dated now video of things working.
bobndot 01/21/23 03:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

Pick up the new unit Saturday. very nice, sounds great hope you have many healthy miles ahead ! :C tnx for the comparison update .
bobndot 01/19/23 06:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

My experience, FR warranty reps are pretty good. Many people get better results dealing directly with the same factory rep. throughout. In general, the less profit the dealer is making the less they are willing to help. If you can find an rv repair shop that you will always frequent , they might be willing to accept what the FR rep offers them as an hourly repair rate for warranty work. I have gone that route as well, but that will depend on both parties coming to terms. Big tnx to BruceMc, those makeover pics are awesome.
bobndot 01/15/23 03:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

I just found my list of stuff In 2018 my Sunseeker lacked as standard eq. , Outside shower Black tank flush Recessed lighting Under cabinet led’s *Serta pillow-top mattress *Arctic package *Hydraulic jacks *heat pump on AC * Not sure if the spare tire was standard or not. I have one. Also not sure if the 30,000 btu furnace was standard or part of the Arctic pack which i also have. My dealer just happened to order these options marked * But today, they both might have the same eq, really not sure.
bobndot 01/11/23 04:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: FR Forester vs Sunseeker - what's the difference?

If i remember correctly, when i purchased my Sunseeker in 2018 i had to pay for certain options that the Forester offered as standard. I think it was the hydraulic jacks and Arctic pack which gave me heat pads and higher R value insulation. I think the Forester offers full body paint over the Sunseeker and possibly 50 amps in larger floorplans.
bobndot 01/10/23 01:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: thor compass class b+

Some were complaining that the AC wasn’t keeping up with the heat generated by the large skylight. I don’t know if that was resolved since 2018. Also, when i looked at them , i liked a rear bedroom slide model but it did not have a ladder to access the roof. Don't really know if that matters to most people or not. Check the Thor owners forum for owners complaints, likes and dislikes.
bobndot 01/06/23 12:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Leisure travel Serenity TV wiring

John, would a portable Rayzar work for you ? You can view them on youtube or the websites video link. You could place it inside a window near the tv you mount. Amazon sells it, if it’s not any good, return it . It might be an easier option if reception is decent. When many rv manufacturers have a ‘prewired’ tv option, they place a piece of 10x10 plywood inside the wall at a location to be able to view from bed or swing-out for a dinette view . Its a backing to screw into for the tv mount. Knock on the wall , to locate it. Once you find it and mount the tv, i would add a web strap with a velcro closure across the screen to secure it for travel. I have seen tv’s rip out of walls bouncing down the road. If you choose a permanent cable box in a wall-mount, i had to use right-angel connectors bc the rv wall was to thin for the coax to bend attaching it to the wall plate.
bobndot 01/02/23 06:28am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Daytime Running Lights.
bobndot 12/30/22 03:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

mountaintraveler, As long as you thought it thru and are comfortable. Knowing all the variables is where you want to be. Just something to be aware of for people like us who go into the woods. When you are looking at rvs, pay attention to the dump valve location. On newer models, the dump plumbing is usually tucked up inside an exterior compartment. On older models, it's exposed and easier to hit it something. Ground clearance of that plumbing setup is less. If your rear wheels dip into a low spot on the trail, that plumbing may touch the ground. RE: $3k. it was FYI. If you bought new towing equipment to outfit your car to tow it. I wasn't sure you were renting a dolly or not.
bobndot 12/21/22 02:05pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

Also the sideview. Its fine when going straight. In a class c the cab portion is narrower than the coach portion. You have take intersections at more of a right angle otherwise the coach will block your side vision. To think of it, I have some experience driving big pickups I rented from Home Depot, that was easy. I hope class C isn't terribly hard as I'd be driving off the lot with my sedan car in tow, towing for the first time too (need to tow car quite a long distance where I'll put it in storage) How are you planning to tow it ? Renting a dolly or car hauler ? I think that would be less expensive. Setting up a dingy to tow is expensive , i spent $3k to set up my car. I have to ask you if other options are open for you because a motorhome will be limited to where you can go. You can get hung-up if you try to go into places that too tight or too rough. Those places can experience less sunlight to dry out the ground. Damp ground or mud will be your enemy and cell service for help might be a problem. Too bad you didn't keep the pickup. Is that an option for you ? Doing your type camping into rough places, a truck camper would offer you ground clearance, 4WD and no low rear overhang. Have you considered modifying a van ? The Ram and Transit offer taller roofs so you can stand inside. There are many YouTube's on basic insulation and wall coverings. Driving a motorhome requires using the sideview convex mirrors. Will that be a problem for your vision ? You also will find it easier to tilt down the sideview mirror when backing into tight spots, especially with heavy bush cover, stumps and rocks. Its a big plus to be able to see your rear bumper and rear wheels. Its easier to judge your distance. Most class c’s don't have power mirrors. Tilting down the drivers is usually enough for me to see. Power side-views would nice .
bobndot 12/21/22 06:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

I came up with the idea of gutting the sofa and any seats if I get 24' one. I can put them in storage and later reistall them when it's time to sell the RV. I only use my camping cot and camping chair recliner in the house, don't want anything else, so RV furniture is of no use for me. If I gut some furniture I can free space. My recliner folds, might even fold the camping cot for the day if I need to freeing space. A sleeping option : you could use 1/2 the cabover space as storage and use the other 1/2 as your bed. Removing rv furniture: You’re probably not going to find total flat floor space for storage. Under the rv bed is usually a large freshwater tank and maybe the water heater plus other rv related components. You would need to fabricate secure storage on top of the beds raised plywood platform. You need to make sure your stored items will not crash thru the windows. They can easily break. The same applies to the dinette area. Under the dinette are the wheel wells, maybe the furnace and other things can take up that space . If you’re lucky, some slide-outs will offer you flat floor space when the rv furniture is removed, maybe ! Be careful fabricating in a slide-out. They are very thin walled, less than the rv sidewalls. Watch the length of your bolts, it must be clear in order to slide. Slide tolerances are tight. By removing rv beds and dinettes , I’m not so sure you will accomplish as much of your goal for extra storage . Just something to think about. *Remember you are driving in the same space that you are storing things. Whatever you fabricate, make sure your equipment is secured in a solid manner. If not, it becomes projectiles in the event of an accident. Bolt the framing you use through solid foundations. Protect yourself ! That doesn’t mean to wear a helmet when driving. :)
bobndot 12/19/22 04:19am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

Also the sideview. Its fine when going straight. In a class c the cab portion is narrower than the coach portion. You have take intersections at more of a right angle otherwise the coach will block your side vision.
bobndot 12/19/22 03:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 feet versus 26' dilemma, have to decide fast

Your camping style is like ours. We usually can’t depend on neighbors to help us. It goes beyond the size of the rv. Once you fit into a campsite you need everything to function properly in order to not have to leave. Your first rv ? As you know, Rv’s are much more complex than a tent . Especially boon-docking remotely. Rv help is few and far between today. You need to learn the very basic mechanics and how to override things in order to make them function while you are in remote settings. Carrying a few extra parts may be the answer for you to keep yourself on a site rather than leaving to try to get help , which might take considerable time. Spares: You need to have a ‘water pump’ , ‘ pex tool with some extra clamps’ , a universal ‘ Dinosaur Fan50 control board’ and an ‘LP regulator’. You need to have these in order to have flowing gas and water and appliances that function. The control board operates the fridge, WH and furnace. I have replaced all using quality made Dinosaur boards and never had another issue. I would go 24’ and make it work. If you choose a slide model, make sure you can use the floorplan completely when the slide is ‘in’. Just in case the slide motor fails or the slide binds in its frame and you unable to hand-crank it back in. Smaller , lighter slides of 400 lbs can sometimes be pushed back in. Larger full wall slides 1000 lbs need a team of linemen. The ‘pivoting’ into tight spaces might be the key to getting in. See which brand, GM / Ford E series / Ford Transit / MB , offers a better turning radius. A shorter wheelbase rv seems like it would navigate over humps and rocks that might otherwise get hung-up on the undercarriage of a longer WB rv. The middle of a coach could become hung-up on the ground . That will also depend on your coaches ground clearance, which could be increased by using spacers if necessary. A spring shop could do that. Notice the rear overhand distance of the rig you decide on. The distance from the rear axle to rear bumper. This is where rvs can get hung up while trying to back into an incline. The rear sometimes digs in to the dirt on an incline. We use our 24’ non slide rv for a month at a time with no issues. If you can do a month then you can do a year. We have a corner queen bed and a full queen in the cabover which is all storage space now. Closet space, fridge size and LP tank size should be considered. Learn how to downsize everything you need. It can be done . Doing laundry more often, replenishing food and propane might have to be done more often than a larger rv. Just some things to consider beyond the extra 2 feet or whatever length you are considering. Consider a spare tire and appropriate jacking. Many rvs do not have spare tires. If you need to add one, you could use a hitch mounted tire carrier off the rear hitch. Carry 2x10 blocks for leveling under the tires. Absorption fridges need to be somewhat level to keep the gas flowing to operate. 12v compressor fridges will work fine off level.
bobndot 12/18/22 11:57am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Forest River Forester opinions

I have the FR Sunseeker 2350 non slide. As you said, its a mid line rv but it works well. All the plumbing lines and water pump are heated by the furnace duct system. The cabinets that house the sinks are heated. Its well insulated with the arctic package. That offers 110v heat pads on the tanks and extra insulation on the roof and floor . All the wiring is neat. Everything is easy to reach and work on. FR has been vg to work with regarding warranty work. I had a few minor things during the warranty period.
bobndot 12/13/22 02:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need battery for house and gen starting?

6v info and dimension chart
bobndot 12/09/22 08:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need battery for house and gen starting?

Popular one is , Trojan T-105. 225amps. If you plan to use full hookup campgrounds all the time i would stick with a single 12v batt. But for off grid camping two 6v’s are nice. Hook two together in series for 12v and 225 amps. A solar panel of 200-400w would be a good way to keep the batts topped off but for very shady or rainy days the genny has to run unless you drive all day to another place, then your alternator should charge the bank. They might not charge to a complete 100% but being close to that will work. Depending on how you plan to use your rv, a bank like this will work well if you camp in parks without hookups. You will need a small generator to run about 2-3 hrs. each day to bring the bank back up to full which is 12.6v at rest. As soon as you turn the generator off, the battery voltage will give you a higher reading of 13v plus. It will drop down to 12.6 or so as the batteries rest.
bobndot 12/09/22 07:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need battery for house and gen starting?

Here is RV batteries from Walmart. You need to determine which one is best for you. If you do little dry camping, a group 24 will suffice. Everstart RV batteries IMHO, the price difference between a Marine/RV battery and the same engine starting battery is very questionable. Dual 6V golf cart batteries will start your generator and provide much more 12V power to your RV at not a lot of additional cost. I think that’s a good suggestion as long as the battery compartment is tall enough to fit the taller 6v’s. I know i would have had to fabricate my ‘entrance step’ battery compartment to use them.
bobndot 12/09/22 05:40pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need battery for house and gen starting?

It’s just sticker shock :). I think those batts will outlast an Everlast wet cell. By the time you buy two , maybe three wet cells the price difference becomes diluted. Quality batteries from a reputable vendor might be a better choice over the box store like Walmart. You need to check your dates to get an idea of how long those big box batteries sit on shelves. AFAIK, wet cells don’t hold voltage as well while sitting idle compared to an AGM and possibly Si02’s. Wet cells can be depleted down to 12v ‘s approx 50% while other batteries can be depleted lower without damage. That might be something to consider when using only a single coach battery, especially if you have to run the furnace all night. You only have so many amps available to burn. You probably need to consider the charging time to charge back up to full charge voltage. The more expensive batteries might take less time to charge.
bobndot 12/09/22 04:36pm Class C Motorhomes
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