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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 66 matches.

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RE: Doris is Dead!

DKLilly67, Glad to hear all is well. Kudos to you for your persistence and for posting your solution. There have been many posters who never post the solution and that just leaves everyone hanging, without us being able to learn of the problem. Posting your solution can potentially be helpful for others in the future who have similar issues. I would recommend that if there are any other screws on junction boxes or breaker panels, that at some time someone go around and make sure they're all tight. This includes ground wires for the DC side of things as well. It's possible that the screws can loosen up over time, even on house wiring. In an RV that's bouncing down the road, it's even more likely for the fasteners to loosen with age. A loose connection will generate heat and ultimately create electrical problems. Again, thanks for following up with your post! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/12/23 10:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: thinking of buying a Motorhome....looking for tips/hints

Hi, I guess the first questions would be along the lines of: Approximately how much are you planning to spend on the motorhome? New or Used? How long of an RV do you think you need (compared with the trailers)? Same number of people as in the past? Fewer? More? Any preference for diesel or gas? Are you planning on driving it a lot, or driving into an area and staying put for weeks, or longer, at a time? Which floorplans worked best for you in the past? That should get you started. :) Good Luck on your search. Take your time and be patient. These forums have a WEALTH of information, especially about Class A motorhomes. If you can figure out the quirky search options, it helps. But don't hesistate to ask us any questions you might have directly. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/11/23 03:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Doris is Dead!

This morning we got plain outlets ( just trying to close circuit and go from there) my husband very carefully hooked them up ground to ground, white to gold, black to silver. We can now read power to the outlet but nothing to the outlet works . I hope you have a typo there. It should be ground to ground (usually a green screw), black to gold screw, and white to silver screw. The black is the hot line, the white is the neutral line. If wired the way you described, things connected to the outlet should work, but they are a shock hazard. Outlets have a "load" and a "line" side. The "line" side received the black, white & ground wires from the breaker panel. The "load" side is used to feed the power and protect the other outlets downstream. The fact that they don't works suggests that either they are wired incorrectly (more so than you mentioned) or that the breaker which feeds the those outlet(s) is tripped. ON EDIT: Reading your next reply, I see that you figured out the hot & neutral reversal. That's a step in the right direction. I might also suggest, if you don't have one already, that you purchase a GFCI receptacle tester similar to this one. There are many variations, all do about the same thing, and any hardware store should have them. Personally, I recommend the ones with the GFCI test button. Oh, and the yellow sticker is there mostly to indicate the "load" terminals on the GFCI. Where it's placed has no bearing on the circuit operation. I have no idea what "hopelessly locked up" means. If they were tripped, hitting the "Reset" button should fix it. And you really should reinstall the GFCI outlets. Without them, you have a serious shock hazard. I don't really think the GFCI outlets had anything to do with your original issues. I don't like to say this, but it sounds like the people you have working on the electrical issues don't really understand what they are doing. Understand that electricity can be lethal and it's important to have a good understanding and respect for it. You might want to consider hiring someone who is skilled in electrical work to straighten this out. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/10/23 06:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Seat belts

Hi, If the dinette is not on a slide, it should be a bit easier to accomplish. Our rig came with plenty (12) of seatbelts up front (driver, passenger, 3 on each of the two sofas & 4 on the dinette) but I did install some on the bed to secure the kids when we were travelling at night. I used an online store, or something like that. That was over 15 years ago. They had many options: lengths, attachments, colors, etc. Ideally, you should bolt them through the floor if you can access the underneath of the dinette floor. Keep in mind that seatbelts in an RV should be considered as aids to keep the butts in the seats for emergency maneuvers, but are probably of limited help in a major collision where the structure of the RV is being ripped apart. Due to liability issues, it is doubtful you'll find any company willing to install them aftermarket. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/06/23 09:41am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Power for My CPAP

I know I could connect the same two batteries in series, and eliminate using the converter, but the capacity would be 18 ah. That is correct, the AH capacity would be 18AH. BUT...the current draw from a 24V source would be 1/2 of what the converter has to draw from a 12V source, so the net effect on how long the batteries would last would be the same. (The power going into the converter (I*V = I * 12V) has to be equal (technically, a bit greater, but we'll simpify here) to the power going into the CPAP (I * 24V).) Anyway, battery longevity should be the same, and possibly a smidgen greater, without the converter in play. Good Luck as you search for options. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/05/23 07:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery Power for My CPAP

I use a ResMed Airsense 10 CPAP with humidifier and heated hose features disabled. I use a ResMed 12vdc to 24vdc converter,($100) connected to two (2) 12volt 18 amp hour sealed lead acid batteries,($100 per pair) connected in parallel, for 12 volts 36amp hour capacity. Hi Bordercollie I'm wondering why you put the two 12V batteries in parallel when your CPAP needs 24V? If you put them in series, you'd be at 24V with an 18 AH capacity. Power wise, it's the same. That 12V to 24V converter uses up a bit of power in the step up conversion process. Maybe not much, I didn't research the technical data for the unit, but it does use some power. Since that converter costs what a pair of batteries cost, for the same initial investment, you could have an extra set of batteries. This way one pair of batteries could be charging and standing by while the other pair was being used. This would provide you at least 6 days, maybe 7, of battery use. Of course, since you already have the 12V-24V converter, it's a moot point. But if it should start acting up, this might be something to consider, if you haven't already. Anyway, I know nothing about CPAPs and such, and I guess the 12V to 24V converter is something you'd use for other purposes anyway. I was just wondering if this was something you investigated along the way. Take care, ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/04/23 04:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Drive through parking radius swing dimensions

TexasTeaSip, Welcome to the Forums!!! I have to say I like trains as well, my Dad grew up near the tracks back in the steam engine days, and then worked in a freight house for a couple of years. But that property you're looking at is a bit closer than I'd like to be. :) You didn't mention whether or not you'd be towing a car behind your motorhome or not. I was just going to add that the towed car will follow within the tracks of the motorhome, so if the motorhome makes it, the car will as well. Understand that backing up will probably not be an option, though, depending upon how the vehicle is being towed. But it is convenient to be able to hookup in the driveway and just drive away. But if you're not going to tow the car or can connect it out in the street, then disregard the above paragraph. :) Good Luck in your decision making process. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/02/23 08:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C on shore power trips breaker after 30 minustes

I have two meters one being a fluke. I also have a degree in electronics. But was not sure of how the RV deals with this A/C problem. I did figure it out and all is well. So, I guess all is not well? We're trying to help you, but you haven't responded to the questions we asked to help you diagnose your problem. I'm still leaning toward then 20A to 30A adapter. Can you tell us what voltages you measure at an wall outlet inside the motorhome when the A/C is running? It would be interesting to compare these readings on a cooler day and then again on a hot (90+) day, and several times, not just when the A/C is first turned on, but after it's been running for a while. I suspect the voltage at the A/C is sagging under the higher temperature conditions enough to trip the 20A breaker. "I have an adapter for 30 to 20 and a 10-12 ga extension cord." Is the adapter for a 30A plug (male) to 20A receptacle (female), or for a 20A plug (male) to a 30A receptacle (female)? The latter would allow you to use your 30A RV shore power cord on a 20A outlet. The first one would allow you to plug a standard 120VAC extension cord into a 30A RV receptacle. You say a "10-12 gauge extension cord"? Which is it, and how long is it? How old is it and does it appear to be in good shape? Do the connection ends get hot while it's being used while being used? I'm not sure what you mean with this: "...and am also taking the unit out of the wooden box in the RV to check the fan." What unit out of what wooden box? "Does anyone know how to test the Fan since it comes on via the controller board? Is it a 12v fan or a 120v fan?" Are you referring to the fan on the A/C unit? If so, I believe that should be 120VAC. If you're trying to run your entire RV off a single 20A connection, be aware that other appliances in the RV might be adding to the current draw in addition to the A/C, unless you're specifically turned them off. Things such as electric water heater, refrigerator, battery charger, TVs, etc. With only a 20A supply, you should be able to get the A/C to run properly, but only if ALL other draws on that 120VAC line are shut-off. Again, AC voltage measurements inside the RV would go along way to help diagnose this. A voltage measurement without the A/C running, then one with it running, and then several other with it running at various times during the day and different temperatures. Well, good luck. Any specific troubleshooting info you can provide (voltage measurements at various operating conditions) could be very helpful. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/23/23 11:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Slide won't retract: 2004 Imperial Holiday Rambler

Dave, ON EDIT: I just read the manual provided by Doug. (Thanks, Doug! :) ) Interestingly, it does not show a manual retraction method for the front slide of the motorhome, only the rear slide. For the front slide it states (page 218): If the Slide Room Fails to Operate: Check the fuse and auto-reset circuit breaker on the slide-out relay module located in the curbside rear electrical compartment. If the fuses and circuit breakers test okay, it will be necessary to call and obtain mechanical assistance to correct the problem. That's interesting. There must be some way of doing it, but perhaps the manufacturer thought it was too complex or hazardous for the average RV owner to do. In looking through the manual, your slides are different than mine and the controllers seem to be as well. But IF the controllers came from the same manufacturer, there could be similarities with failure modes. It could just be a bad ground to the controllers. When I was troubleshooting mine, I found the slide controller ground wire screw loose on the ground bus it was connected to. Upon inspection, the insulation looked burnt. When I stripped away some of the insulation, the copper was burnt about 6" up the wire, so that wire, I'm guessing, had been loose for some time and I believe that explains why our front slide sometimes seemed to really struggle when closing. BUT...I also had an issue with the controller. As I mentioned, the soldering looked like it had been done by a second grader, and that is probably an insult to second graders. With this issue, the slide wouldn't move. Like it wasn't getting any power, because, well, it wasn't. Since we were on the road I just did the usual "bad connection" maneuver and moderately slammed the controller against the kitchen counter and reinstalled it. It worked, and I was able to bring the slide in. I had to use that trick a couple of times on that trip. Since I wasn't sure if it was a bad solder joint or bad relays, I replaced the relays and resoldered the entire board. NOTE: I also ordered a new "replacement" controller. But the replacement came as a potted assembly, meaning there was epoxy poured all over the board & components so it couldn't be worked on. As it turns out, when I connected it to our rig, the slides didn't work, so either that one was bad or it was the wrong unit. Well, hopefully the mobile tech will be able to quickly figure out the problem. Please share the solution on this thread so others with a similar rig might be able to use the info. :) Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/18/23 11:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Slide won't retract: 2004 Imperial Holiday Rambler

Hi, At this point, this may or may not help you, but I'll share it anyway. I know nothing about this motorhome, but our motorhome is about the same vintage and has dual electric slides with a single slide controller box. At the time, GBM did make a three slide floorplan and it had two (identical) slide controller boxes, as the controller could only do 2 slides per box. If yours is wired similarly, it's possible the front two slides are on one control unit and the third slide is on a separate unit. Since your rear slide works, that controller is functional. IF it's the same as the front slide controller, you might try swapping controller boxes to see if you can retract the front slide. (By the way, we had slide controller issues on ours after the first few years of ownership. The original soldering was terrible, and while it was out, I replaced a the relays as well. For what it's worth, our slide controller was located on the floor behind the AC breaker panel and interior DC fuse panel.) Even if the above is not helpful, there SHOULD be a manual retraction method outlined in the owner's manual. Or do a search online. You might have to release an electro-mechanical brake before manual operation can be done. Again, search around to see what you can find for that specific RV. I feel for your father-in-law, my uncle went through something similar as old-age set in. I was able to keep him camping as long as possible, doing most maintenance and even driving the rig for him to the campground, but eventually he had to call it quits. I know that day will be in my future too. The age of 80 is only 17 years away for me!!! Hard to believe I'm that freakin' old! LOL Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/14/23 10:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan 5500 Generator in Holiday Rambler 1998 Endeavor

dalefuji, Glad to hear you have it running! Kind of makes me wonder what the original problem, was though!?!?! :) Thanks for posting your success...however you achieved it. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/31/23 05:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan 5500 Generator in Holiday Rambler 1998 Endeavor

Yesterday I spoke to friend at RV Dealership and he told me to hold stop button in for 15 seconds to prime carb. I did that and generator started and ran for about 3-4 minutes. After that it would not start. Today we disconnected gas line from main tank to fuel pump and hooked hose up to fuel pump and dropped hose in gas can. Generator would not start. When you primed the generator, it started. I'm assuming it was running pretty well and not sputtering or running rough or you would've mentioned that. That to me would suggest that the carb is probably OK. After you primed it, it ran, and then stalled once the fuel was used up in the float bowl. That's normal if there's not sufficient fuel being fed to the carb. Did you repeat the priming procedure every time you tried to restart it after that? If you just dropped the fuel line into a can of gas, it'll take A LOT of cranking before it can pull up enough fuel into the float bowl to fire. Well, good luck in your troubleshooting. I'm still leaning toward it being a fuel line or possibly a fuel pump problem. I'll be very interested to hear what your solution turns out to be. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/31/23 04:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Securing Portable AC unit When traveling

Good Luck, I hope your efforts are rewarded! :) Please keep us posted! ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/31/23 03:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan 5500 Generator in Holiday Rambler 1998 Endeavor

I took fuel line from fuel pump and stuck it in gas can and no luck... This could just be semantics, but to be clear, you need to disconnect the fuel line going TO the fuel pump, not from. That is, the fuel line coming from the gas tank. That's probably what you did, but just want to make it clear. To do this, you'll probably need an additional length of fuel line to drop down from the pump to the gas can. I still think your symptoms still sound like fuel starvation. Can you repeat your test where you primed the engine and then tried to start it? If that works, it's most likely a fuel problem. When you go to start it, does it "pop" or show any signs of trying to start? Have you tried spraying any "quick start" spray into the carb to see if that would get it to "pop"? ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/23 04:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan 5500 Generator in Holiday Rambler 1998 Endeavor

dalefuji, Did you replace the gas line from the fuel pump to the gas tank? If it ran when you primed it, you filled the float bowl with fuel and that allowed the generator to run for a short while. But with a leak in the line between the fuel pump and the gas tank, fuel can't be sucked up fast enough and the engine will stall. One way to check is to take a line from the fuel pump into a separate gas container and see if the engine will keep running then. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/23 08:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dead Onan Generator

Mr. Pinky, A common piece of advice I read on these forums is to find a good mobile RV mechanic and have them look at the situation. I think they would be more likely to just fix or replace the part or parts that need fixing rather than sell you a whole new unit. If nothing else, you'd be getting a second opinion. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/27/23 03:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Onan 5500 Gen in RV

dalefuji, ON EDIT: Oops, I think I read your post too quickly on my first response. There should be a breaker for each 120VAC line. Not sure about the inline fuses, they might provide protection for any 12V operated devices on the generator (choke, fuel pump, ?). ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/27/23 03:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Securing Portable AC unit When traveling

JCat, As to your question for securing it, you'll probably need some combination of boards, netting or straps to keep it stable during transit, including not toppling over during steering or braking. However, I can see where such strapping could also hinder movement through the rig, as well, creativity will undoubtedly need to come into play. Just out of curiosity, what's the BTU rating of the portable A/C you're planning to use? Most rooftop units are 13,500-15,000, and I believe the dash units are usually greater than that. I've seen some larger portable units rated in that range, but there are also a lot of smaller ones in the 5k-8k range, which I don't think will provide the amount of cooling you're looking for. I think you'll want that portable A/C unit right up front with you and then run a long vent hose to exhaust the heat. Maybe you could just vent it into your bathroom and let the bathroom vent exhaust the hot air. Though you'll still have to deal with the water condensate from the A/C. I think you'll need to set up a fan to blow the cooler air up front. I did play this game for awhile when our compressor clutch failed on our rig. Both 15k roof A/Cs cranking with a fan blowing up front made it tolerable, that was in mid 90's heat. But nothing can compare to having that cold air coming out of the dash vents. I know nothing about your specific rig, so if this is not on target, then just skip it. But, does your dash A/C work but it's just not cool enough? That was the case with ours and the culprit was that the coolant valve was allowing hot engine coolant to circulate through the heater core while the A/C evaporator was trying to cool it. I put a mechanical shut-off valve in line with the heater core and cool air was delivered once again. Just a thought that might help keep you cool. One more thing, look for ANY air leaks under or around the dash that can allow hot outside air into the rig. Your DP is a higher class vehicle than our gasser, but I've found several spots in the firewall area that would allow air into the rig. Not usually a problem most times, but when travelling in temperature extremes, hot and cold, they were noticeable. Good Luck, and let us know how you make out! ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/26/23 11:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A/C on shore power trips breaker after 30 minustes

I think that electrical cord may well have been your problem, but doubtful on cutting the a/c cover opening... I would tend to agree with your assessment. wpatters1229, did you ever make voltage measurements at the A/C with the extension cord & adapter combination and compare it to the voltage with the generator running? Cutting the cover probably wouldn't change the voltage getting to the unit. Anyway, whatever additional information you can provide that helped you to zero in on what you thought was the solution would be helpful should other folks have a similar issue in times to come. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/25/23 12:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Clear oily liquid leaking from under kitchen cabinet

Nanooy614, Glad to hear you were able to trace down the source, and thanks for posting the solution for those who read this in the future! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/20/23 05:34pm Class C Motorhomes
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