Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli' found 104 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Wiring 4 awg charging wire to upgrade 8 awg factory wire.

I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug. I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery. Quartzite has been a lot of fun. Truck Camper rally starts next week. Hope to see some RV.netters there. not if you hook up the trigger wire properly to a source that is only hot when the engine is running like the altanator. Steve The battery a d alternator are connected so I believe the alternator will always look to be live at minimum battery voltage. If that is enough to trigger the Orion harder to activate, I'll have to test for that. I'll make a point t to do that at the rally this co.i g week.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/28/23 01:30pm Truck Campers
RE: Installing a new Thetford Toilet and water supply line

Yes, I'm going to find a piece of plastic to act as a stop to the pedal. The inside e valve to the toilet or for that matter any location is a good idea. May swi g by the RV store in the AM and get one. I have an end cap that will go over the barb fitting assets in the video to cap the line and use the rest of the water system. It's something that would rarely be used. In my case, I could use it to extend the pipe which would allow me to cut off the scratched damaged that has a tiny leak. The valve would let me cut off enough that I would have unmolested pipe to attach to the fitting. I'm also going to fit a piece of plastic under the seat at the back. There is toilet rim therethat can support the seat. I'm not certain a residential toilet seat can be altered to work since there is a big notched area preventing or making that option difficult. The support block should be fine.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/27/23 05:59pm Truck Campers
Things I've been doing around Quartzite, AZ.

VIDEO Things I've been doing around Quartzite, AZ. VIDEO VW's and Avion's and Gonagain OH My! Some things I've been doing in Quartzite, AZ.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/26/23 01:53am Truck Campers
Installing a new Thetford Toilet and water supply line

New Toilet For The Truck Camper. OLD Toilet Flush Valve Broke. New Water Supply Line Too. VIDEO Installing A New Thetford Toilet VIDEO Several issues to overcome. Rant about quality at end.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/25/23 11:57pm Truck Campers
RE: Wiring 4 awg charging wire to upgrade 8 awg factory wire.

I believe Ford is still the only one with switched power at the trailer plug. I was just thinking, there could be a condition where you're sitting in the Truck, key on, engine off, and the DC DC charger is pumping 30 amps from the truck battery back to the TC batteries. That could be a recipe for a dead battery. Quartzite has been a lot of fun. Truck Camper rally starts next week. Hope to see some RV.netters there.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/24/23 09:14am Truck Campers
RE: Wiring 4 awg charging wire to upgrade 8 awg factory wire.

Well gosh darn. There were several good threads on this topic in the Truck Camper University section but many pictures have lost connection making it tough to use. I used a 4 awg battery cable off the alternator and Negative off the Battery. I routed the wires down under the body along the frame rails inside split loom and zip tied to various points along the frame. I came up through between the inner and outer bed box panels and installed a 100 amp lift gate plug in the front left corner of the bed. I drilled a hole next to my 7 pin plug, converted from S&S 6 pin rectangle. I plug the lift gate for the connection and it works very well, mounts solidly. When you connect the DC DC charger, you don't want any other truck battery connection to the camper batteries. Charge with the DC DC only and nothing else. If you connect the stock wire to the TC batteries, you will be confusing the system with a different voltage and you don't want that. You can use the old wire for a trigger wire to the DC DC unit since it comes live with the key and will activate the DC DC charger.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/23/23 11:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Broken Frame on a RAM 3500

It is not a motorcycle rack or motorcycle off the rear. The owner had two e-bikes which weigh 60-80 lbs each. Verify your information before posting or I will delete posts or lock this thread. This failure was on a 2020 Ram 3500 DRW crew cab long bed. What makes me scratch my head is, the center of gravity is supposed to be within a few inches of center over the rear wheels. Is it known whether the cabover was loaded down with heavy items? I carry a few hundred pounds of cameras, computers, clothes up there myself. I've also hit some pretty hard air worthy dips in the road with no consequence coming down out of the mountains.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/02/23 12:11pm Truck Campers
I found a wonderfully detailed video rebuilding of an S&S TC

Video Playlist rebuilding a S&S wood frame truck camper. Anybody wondering how to repair their wood frame truck camper could learn a lot from this series. This is definately going to help me with upcoming repairs to my S&S.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 01/02/23 08:21am Truck Campers
RE: Broken Frame on a RAM 3500

Those really big truck campers should be on the bigger 550-5500 trucks. Bigger brakes too that way. I know my F250 is probably a little overloaded but not severely. I have the higher rated 3400 pound each load range E tires, heavy sway bars front and rear, Larger 5500-pound leaf springs in the rear and soon, 3 leaf heavier springs in the front, Firestone airbags which provide a third center support point to the frame directly above the axle and halfway between the front and rear shackles. No signs of frame stress at the usual break point between the bed and cab. I would really hate to have it do something to me when I'm on one of those middle of nowhere back roads like at Alamo Reservoir, AZ last year, (Alamo Rd.) when I sank into the deep road gravel. there were several bouncy parts to that road for which I'm glad nothing happened.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/29/22 10:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Levelling blocks for camper on driveway with 2 degree grade

Well shoot, I'll chime in. There are so many reasons and ways to level your camper or truck and camper whichever the case. Just go with the flow if it isn't horribly out of level being the easiest. Use stackable leveling blocks or wheel ramps as preferred. Determine your elevation tilt. If tilted nose down, place leveling devices at front wheels and either reverse or forward up onto them. There can be a preference which direction to drive onto the leveling equipment depending upon the slope of hill. You can get more lift by backing onto a ramp because the ramp and slope of terrain will add together creating more lift. A downhill slope of 2" in 24" will be pretty much level, +2"ramp -2"slope = 0"lift. The same condition with the ramp turned around and backing up will be additive so you can get 4" lift from the same spot since the ramp will be +2"ramp +2"Slope = 4"lift. You may have a diagonal slope say right rear to left front slope 2"down to front left and left rear to right front is level. All you need is a 2" lift ramp or block under the front left wheel and you're level, you might need a 3/4" piece of plywood added to the lift deice because you're right rear springs won't drop an equal amount to the left front lift. It might just go sown 1" or 1-1/2" and also the other wheels may change a half inch or so. You can be as creative as needed to achieve a given amount of lift but do it safely. I have seen a couple towers of Babble collapse under trucks before. For just the TC, if you're on dirt of grass, it's a good idea to put a 12"x12" block under the TC jack legs. You can then level the TC using the jacks. Torklift or similar Wobble stopers are a good stabilization/safety device to use. If your TC jacks aren't rated to support the TC for extended periods, you can get heavy duty sawhorses to set the TC on if level area. If not level, then you need a 4x4 and shims to achieve level. I have altered my truck camper jacks with additional steel strapping wrapping under the bottom of the TC so there is solid lifting by all jacks. Alright, I've presented a couple scenarios, hopefully the descriptions are clear enough to understand and visualize each situation. Best wishes with your soon to be truck and camper.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/29/22 08:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Lithium battery box temps

I have 2 200 AH LifeBlue lifepo batteries. I ordered them with internal heating. I don't know if the batteries have activated the warming function or not. The coldest I've seen them via their Bluetooth Interface is at 47 to 54 F degrees this winter so far. Bear in mind d I haven't gone out camping yet and there's shore powered heat on in the TC. I have added 1 inch pink foam board around and under the batteries. I also have 1 inch foam board insulating from the compartment exterior door. My battery box has the back cut away for these larger batteries so they get exposure to warmer inside air. Seems to work well enough.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/29/22 12:57am Truck Campers
RE: DC to DC charger

Camper Jeff & Kelli, Is there a cooling fan in the Victron dc to DC unit? The charging total from the numbers posted suggest about 56 amp-hours went into the 400 amp-hour battery bank. Were you driving or was this just idling the engine? Does anyone know the efficiency numbers for the Victron dc to DC charger? (appears to be 87%) The unit puts out 25 amps at normal input voltage, according to the pdf. That seems a bit strange to me. Perhaps I'm reading the wrong pdf? The "sales" pages says 30 amps continuous to 40 amps, at nominal out put voltage. From that 87% it appears the alternator had to produce about 65 amp-hours. The Victron apparently boost charges for 2 hours on the Li settings. I know my unit does 19.6 amps. It is the 20 amp renogy unit. I'm glad to hear yours is doing what you need! I'm out in the TC again today idling the engine. Today I shut off all DC loads except 1 LED dinette table light. Inverter and all else is off excepting for dc electronic controls in fridge and water heater. Idling away, my input voltage is 13.6 and the output charge voltage is 13.7. The unit is hot again. It took half an hour to get to the too hot to touch point. Just guessing, 150 to 160 degrees. The unit has a large heat sink on it. Not smelling electronics. If I were to drive the truck and bring up the speed of the alternator and the output voltage, it may raise the charge voltage lowering the current and possibly the temperature. I have not felt the alternator to see what it's temp is/feels like. I'll run out and do a feel temp test on the alternator, and bring the engine up to 2K RPM for a couple minutes to see if that changes voltage readings to the DC DC input and outputs, hang on... OK, the alternator is warm on the front just after the big radiator cooling fan, and hot a couple inches back to the rear of the alternator. The truck voltage goes from 13.6 at idle to 13.8 when revved to 2K RPM and current goes up just a little varying from 13.2 to 13.8 according to the BMS. The Victron dc dc charger only reports input and output voltage. I need to look at each battery's BMS for its report which differs and includes current. So, Engine RPM makes a small difference on my setup, I don't know if it's enough to change the time to charge or heat profile. I will have to take a drive to do that. My alternator is 160 amps so it should be able to handle the truck load and the dc to dc. It took an hour at idle to bring both batteries up to 90 and 91 percent charge. My latest weather forecast shows clouds and snow the next 6 days so I'll have to do some driving in the TC to keep the system charged. About an hour a day but tomorrow, I think I'll do some extra running around and bring the batteries back up to about 100%, then watch it slowly go down from there, with all the DC stuff that isn't necessary shut off to make things last longer. About 5 weeks till I get the new Victron 3000 and get shore power again. Even though I installed 675 watts of solar on the roof, it just isn't enough for winter up here in the Seattle area.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/04/22 05:35pm Truck Campers
RE: DC to DC charger

I ran the truck an hour and a half the other day. My Victron 30 amp dc to dc got pretty darn hot. Hotter than I wanted to touch. During that time, the 2, 200AH lifepo batteries were charged from 79% to 93% each. Minimal solar now, about 0 to 175 watts for a couple hours of winter time, low sun days. My 45 amp Boondocker has stopped working. Exterior fuses are good but there may be an interior fuse. I'll have to pull out the unit to inspect since it's in a difficult location. I plan to replace it with a Victron 3000 watt inverter charger when I get to Quartzite. This is why you need proper equipment to charge Lithium batteries, they can accept so much current they can destroy your alternator burning it out. My guess is the old boondocks couldn't handle the batteries either.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/04/22 11:57am Truck Campers
RE: Back up camera recommendations?

I'm looking into some cameras for my truck and camper before I leave on my trip. I'll let you know what products I decide.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 12/02/22 07:10pm Truck Campers
RE: DC to DC charger

The best thing about Lithium is they always put out 13.2 volts thanks to the BMS. Lead batteries, all types, slowly drop voltage as they discharge causing brown out conditions like dim lights, slow pump motors, and weak other loads. Not so with Lithium. 13.2 volts stable all the way down to 80 or 90% discharge and then the BMS protection shuts it off till recharged. Lithium is like having your cake and eating it too. now thats not true, at 90% discharged the voltage of a LiFePO4 battery is only 12.0V if you would have said they put out over 12V untill 90% discharged then yes that is true and still a huge advantage over a wet battery which hits 12V at about 50% discharged. an even better advantage of the LiFePO4 is the voltage level under load, you can discharge much deeper befor you get alarms from your inverter from low voltage. a flooded battery can drop to 11.5V at 100% charged if it has a C/3 load on it, so basicly a 100 amp battery with a 33amp load will dip pretty fast, which is why for big rigs people run 4 6V batteries or more. Lifepo4 doesnt have this issue to that degree as you can do a C1 discharge and stay above 12V to 90% discharge which would be a 100 amp draw on a 100amp battery. so in a way your right just your numbers are off a little. I will agree that you have a more precise answer. The bigger the load, the more likely the voltage will drop and that effect will increase the more it is discharged. Nonetheless, the voltage is more stable than lead.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 11/30/22 03:07pm Truck Campers
RE: DC to DC charger

All in all, life is better with Lithium Iron batteries. Better still with a dc to dc charger. Disconnect the 7 pin power wire from charging your batteries, it is no longer needed and may cause a feedback loop. Your dc to dc charger will be feeding a higher voltage back to the alternator and computer through that wire if left connected and you don't want that, weird stuff can happen. Right now, I'm in the TC with my 400 AH batteries at 80% charge because there was no sun to speak of today to charge them. Tomorrow I'll go for a drive and my 30 amp dc to dc charger will give them a good charge back up in an hours time. Enough to get a nice bacon cheese burger and walk along the beach. My 675 watts of solar on the roof and the MPPT Victron history shows I got a peak of 53 watts for a couple hours today. The redundancy of the 30 amp dc to dc charger is so nice to have. My 10 year old BoonDocker 45 amp shore power supply has something wrong with it and is only putting out 4 amps. I'm going to replace it with a Victron 3000 watt inverter power supply when I get down to Quartzite. The best thing about Lithium is they always put out 13.2 volts thanks to the BMS. Lead batteries, all types, slowly drop voltage as they discharge causing brown out conditions like dim lights, slow pump motors, and weak other loads. Not so with Lithium. 13.2 volts stable all the way down to 80 or 90% discharge and then the BMS protection shuts it off till recharged. Lithium is like having your cake and eating it too.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 11/29/22 10:34pm Truck Campers
RE: Truck Camper Adventure Rally

I'll be there. Had a great time last year.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 11/17/22 12:38am Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

The pump would only need to run a total of maybe 40 seconds total a day pressing the switch, 6 seconds per use. Not much power. True enough. But if I'm going to go to the trouble of plumbing in a hot water loop, I don't want to wait at all. Besides, our Host camper takes at least twice that time to get hot water to the kitchen sink. I'd like to see how you do it. A Grundfoss Pump is big, heavy, and reliable. You might have a different pump solution. Keep us in the loop. A little plumbing joke there...
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/15/22 06:27pm Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

That works great in a residential application but in the RV, I only want the pump to run when needed, not constantly. Battery conservation. I only need 6 seconds of run time on the pump to get hot to the sink. A residential setup has a recirculating pump that runs all the time, at preset times on timer, or at a set temperature. Typically, the loop is taken from the last fixture in line and so should the return line in this setup. My pipes are all insulated and have 1" foamboard plus the TC wall insulating them from the outside in cold temperatures. The pipes are also run together with insulation tube over them and the heater vent hose next to them. The pipes are pretty well protected from freezing. But a recirculating pump takes little amperage compared to the pressure pump. The pressure pump would see no difference in usage -- in fact, less, as it would not have the extra duty of pumping cold water out of the lines. We are skiers, and in the RV lot can often see zero-degree temps for a day or two at a time. Keeping water flowing at those temps requires a space heater in our camper's basement, which draws a lot more than a recirculating pump. Since we have plug-in power up there, a few more ticks isn't an issue. The pump would only need to run a total of maybe 40 seconds total a day pressing the switch, 6 seconds per use. Not much power.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/15/22 11:41am Truck Campers
RE: Hot Water Recirculation Loop - Save Water - Camp Longer

Just watched the video, now I get what is meant by the OP's use of the term "recirculating." He is describing recycling cold water back to the main tank. To me, I was thinking "instant on" recirculating hot water, which creates a loop from and back to the hot water tank, which is driven by a recirculating pump, different than the main pressure pump. This loop is always heated, and when a hot water fixture is used the pressure drop in the loop turns on the main pump which actually provides the driving force for water to come out of the faucet. This would keep the hot water from freezing; the back-to-main-tank loop would not. With properly insulated lines it should not pull too much extra duty from the hot water tank. This is how it works in my house -- even in rooms farthest away from my boiler/hot water tank I have hot water right away. That works great in a residential application but in the RV, I only want the pump to run when needed, not constantly. Battery conservation. I only need 6 seconds of run time on the pump to get hot to the sink. A residential setup has a recirculating pump that runs all the time, at preset times on timer, or at a set temperature. Typically, the loop is taken from the last fixture in line and so should the return line in this setup. My pipes are all insulated and have 1" foamboard plus the TC wall insulating them from the outside in cold temperatures. The pipes are also run together with insulation tube over them and the heater vent hose next to them. The pipes are pretty well protected from freezing.
Camper_Jeff_&_Kelli 10/14/22 05:10pm Truck Campers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 6  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2023 CWI, Inc. © 2023 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.