I have a 2012 ram 3500 mega cab srw. I am looking at either a northern lite 8.11 or an arctic fox 865 both units 2023. I’m looking for advice on tow setups. Manufacturers don’t seem to list the overhang the campers have and I want to to my Nautique behind me. Tongue weight is about 350 boat and trailer probably 6200 lbs. anyone have any advice as to a good setup.
Had AF 860s on a 3rd gen 2500 Mega, same bed length and camper length as the 811 and I think the 865.
Straight towing with the extension with a same boat. Slightly lighter overall and slightly heavier tongue weight. And a much lighter rated hitch than your truck.
Thousands of miles towing like this with the boat and similar size trailers.
You’ll have no problems either.
Only thing out of the ordinary id do is slide a flat washer or 2 under the male ends of the extension and the drawbar to take up the slop so the hitch didn’t look “saggy.”
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
Fwiw, you are likely to be overloaded without the boa by the time you add water etc. You have to include the tongue weight in your payload which is probably 10-15% of the 6200.
If this is a long term plan unless you only plan to short tow it, you'll likely need a DRW. Another option if close by is to take the TC to the campground drop it, and go back for the boat. Of course, you could do that with a TT as well.
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member
A boat won't have 10 - 15% tongue weight. 5 - 8 will be more realistic. You will likely be over GVWR but as long as you don't exceed axle or tire weights you'll be fine.
OP if you don’t listen to me, the rest of the contingent here will have you totally twisted around. The dumb suggestions are already pouring in from those who like to “share” their hypothetical knowledge, aka biased opinions about something they’ve never done….
Good luck and you’d be better off leaving now, lol.
jimh406 wrote:
Most TCs list the overall length, My guess is you'll need about 18-24 inch extension. Where the ball is impacts the felt weight from the tongue. I'm assuming you have the short bed. From what I understand the Megacab is only offered in short beds.
Fwiw, you are likely to be overloaded without the boa by the time you add water etc. You have to include the tongue weight in your payload which is probably 10-15% of the 6200.
If this is a long term plan unless you only plan to short tow it, you'll likely need a DRW. Another option if close by is to take the TC to the campground drop it, and go back for the boat. Of course, you could do that with a TT as well.
Most TCs list the overall length, My guess is you'll need about 18-24 inch extension. Where the ball is impacts the felt weight from the tongue. I'm assuming you have the short bed. From what I understand the Megacab is only offered in short beds.
Fwiw, you are likely to be overloaded without the boa by the time you add water etc. You have to include the tongue weight in your payload which is probably 10-15% of the 6200.
If this is a long term plan unless you only plan to short tow it, you'll likely need a DRW. Another option if close by is to take the TC to the campground drop it, and go back for the boat. Of course, you could do that with a TT as well.
The truck will drive better with the boat hooked up compared to just the camper…..
But it’s good to start the paranoia and weird “solutions” early on in the thread!
* This post was edited 06/25/23 02:49pm by Grit dog *
KD4UPL wrote:
Torque lift super truss is the best there is, probably overkill fir such a short overhang. I used one that was 48"with my 11' truck camper. Before that I used a Reese 48" extension. It worked fine but had much more plan than the tork lift set uo.
A boat won't have 10 - 15% tongue weight. 5 - 8 will be more realistic. You will likely be over GVWR but as long as you don't exceed axle or tire weights you'll be fine.
Torque lift super truss is the best there is, probably overkill fir such a short overhang. I used one that was 48"with my 11' truck camper. Before that I used a Reese 48" extension. It worked fine but had much more plan than the tork lift set uo.
A boat won't have 10 - 15% tongue weight. 5 - 8 will be more realistic. You will likely be over GVWR but as long as you don't exceed axle or tire weights you'll be fine.
Short overhang? You do realize that those specific campers in that specific truck result in about a 3ft overhang? Similar overhang to your 11’ camper.
Grit dog wrote:
Wait yours is a ‘12 so it has a 2” receiver still I believe.
Wait yours is a ‘12 so it has a 2” receiver still I believe.
Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
WDH and surge grakes do not work well together. How does an 9' camper hang over 4'? Is this a truck with a 5' bed?
Hemisport wrote:
Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
Grit dog wrote:
Wait yours is a ‘12 so it has a 2” receiver still I believe.
Wait yours is a ‘12 so it has a 2” receiver still I believe.
Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
I think you may find it doesn’t need to be that long. Both the campers you’re considering are the same length or a shade shorter than our old camper. But the style of the boat and trailer and length of the trailer tongue could also require more hitch extension.
Ideally I’d have rather had at least 30” of hitch extension but I made it work.
If this is going to be a long term setup it may make sense to just get a big receiver and the super truss. That’s the easy button, albeit kind of spendy.
KD4UPL wrote:
That's weird, my 48" super truss is good for 6,000 pounds without WDH. I'll sell it.
WDH and surge grakes do not work well together. How does an 9' camper hang over 4'? Is this a truck with a 5' bed?
That's weird, my 48" super truss is good for 6,000 pounds without WDH. I'll sell it.
WDH and surge grakes do not work well together. How does an 9' camper hang over 4'? Is this a truck with a 5' bed?
It's gotta be a short bed. My 1181 only extends 4 feet from the rear of the Tow beast from Reese. My Reese extension is exactly 48 inches and reaches almost flush with the back step of the camper. The only thing that sticks out is the ball. Actually I'm not really sure of the exact length of the extension because it is 48 inches and then the part that slips inside and gets pinned. 54 maybe? I don't remember
3 tons
3 tons wrote:
The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
Will a standard receiver support the extra length, weight and bounce?
Grit dog wrote:
The truck will drive better with the boat hooked up compared to just the camper…..
But it’s good to start the paranoia and weird “solutions” early on in the thread!
The truck will drive better with the boat hooked up compared to just the camper…..
But it’s good to start the paranoia and weird “solutions” early on in the thread!
Of course, there is no way for you to know if it will drive better or not, but feel free to pretend that you know for sure. Oh, and while you are at it, might as well say he can get by with a a 1500.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
Fwiw, I didn’t say he needed a DRW. I said might. I’m sure you tow thousands of miles with a shortbed and 6200 lb boat, so that makes you an expert.
Oh wait, have you ever towed a boat of any type?Everyone gets to decide if they think it will work or not. Responsible people tell the newbies that they might need a DRW. You don’t have to like it, but there is a reason why so many people buy them. You aren’t enlightened to discourage it.
It’s up to the OP what he/she chooses to do.
* This post was edited 06/26/23 12:24am by jimh406 *
notsobigjoe wrote:
Will a standard receiver support the extra length, weight and bounce?
3 tons wrote:
The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
The Reese 48” requires a 2.5” receiver, apparently the OP has a 2.0”….In this case add a Curt direct bolt on hitch having a 2.5” receiver…Having said that, 48” sounds longer than necessary considering your camper’s overhang, but either way the Curt hitch 2.5” hitch is commercial rated and much stronger than the factory hitch, and it doesn’t affect the factory hitch..
3 tons
Will a standard receiver support the extra length, weight and bounce?
Well, looking at the AF site and the 865, it doesn’t appear that there’s a whole lot of rear overhang to me (now on our second camper), thus my guess would be (after you add the ball mount…) most likely a 14” (e.g. pin to pin, excluding ball mount…) extension, or at the most say an 18” is all...I’m not all too familiar with your year Ram, but as I recall the factory 2” hitch on my 07 dually was good for about 1200# tongue weight (check your manual for specs), but exponentially less when using an extension (say, 350# @ 14” = what??)…Because of this, a Curt 2.5” direct bolt-on hitch seems better suited…
However, be a skeptic when looking at manufacturer’s so called dry weights, which typically do not include things like water weight (nor, 6gal in water heater) or LPG weight, battery weight, any options, tools, clothing or groceries, in fact one manufacturer even considered jacks an option…
3 tons
Chevy Sonic 1.8-Honda Passport C70B-Host Mammoth 11.5-Interstate Car Carrier 20-Joyner SandViper 250-Kawasaki Concours ZG1000-Paros 8' flatbed-Pelican Decker DLX 8.75-Ram 5500 HD
3 tons
Hemisport wrote:
Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
Yes it does have the 2”.
However after measuring the northern light 8.11 it is roughly 59” from my rear receiver to the rear of the landing on the camper. Which means I would need a torkllify super hitch with a 48” truss system. Even after all that my hitch ball will still be slightly under the rear deck which is not a deal killer as long as I can still turn ok. The other down side is apparently the 48” is only good for 4000lbs unless you use weight distribution. Not sure if that can be done on a boat trailer as they are not a v frame tongue.
The ball can be significantly under the camper and it be no problem. In fact closer is better as it reduces weight transfer off the front end. Just depends on what's sticking up on the tongue.
Turning is your only concern but with what is basically a sharp v-nosed trailer, the boat can be quite close to the camper and still won't contact unless you back up and jackknife it severely.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
I could get by 18” of hitch extension with a v nose but not with a pickle fork nose boat, or I couldn’t get the trailer 90deg from the camper without hitting.
And yes the tongue being under the camper a bit was fine, no vertical clearance issues. Just turning.
To Bedlams point though, the sled trailer (v nose but short tongue length and fixed jack) wouldn’t work even with a 24” extension. His old truck having an ~5” longer truck bed than a short bed Dodge and the extra extension would have been equivalent to ~32” extension on the dodge, same camper length and style.
Although I may just be making this all up according to jimh, lol.
On another note, not sure why it’s so hard for someone like him, who has arguably read most of my posts for like 10 years now, to believe.
Regarding being “overloaded”, he is 100% correct. Technically by the sticker and anything less than 4000 lb rated tires, he is overloaded. In a rv.net type of way. Real world, that truck is fine for what he’s doing. Not ideal, but fine.
And again, even though I could be reciting an elaborate ruse, the combo handled better with the boats or other trailers with respect to body roll (short srw truck) and appears to get the same or nearly the same fuel mileage with or without the trailer. 10’ tall boat drafting a 12’ tall camper basically negated the towing penalty.
I use a Torklift Superhitch and Supertruss extension. I've been using them since 2009.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/xCtErsSl.jpg)
2022 Ram 3500 Dually Crewcab Longbed Cummins, 2019 Northstar 12 STC
Grit dog wrote:
^If it’s a v nose boat or v nose trailer. OP didn’t say.
^If it’s a v nose boat or v nose trailer. OP didn’t say.
OP said it was a "Nautique" which even if you don't want to bother googling it, combined with the stated 350lb tongue weight and 6200lb trailer weight, safe to assume it's a boat.
Frankly I'm surprised there was no finger-wagging over the ~5% tongue weight.
Says 6000/600 at 48" without WD.
Anyone dragging these things on the ground at grade changes? Seems like it wouldn't take much at 48". Might at least want to deal with the suspension sag caused by the camper + tongue.
'18 Bigfoot 1500
Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4
mkirsch wrote:
OP said it was a "Nautique" which even if you don't want to bother googling it, combined with the stated 350lb tongue weight and 6200lb trailer weight, safe to assume it's a boat.
Frankly I'm surprised there was no finger-wagging over the ~5% tongue weight.
Grit dog wrote:
^If it’s a v nose boat or v nose trailer. OP didn’t say.
^If it’s a v nose boat or v nose trailer. OP didn’t say.
OP said it was a "Nautique" which even if you don't want to bother googling it, combined with the stated 350lb tongue weight and 6200lb trailer weight, safe to assume it's a boat.
Frankly I'm surprised there was no finger-wagging over the ~5% tongue weight.
And probably a v nose based on the lighter tongue weight. I’m quite familiar with Nautique boats. And if you’d read or quoted my next sentence I was specifically comparing v nose boats to what’s slang referred to as pickle forks (after race boats).
The biggest applicable differences being v nose is typically lighter tongue weight due to less weight of fiberglass in the front and a v nose apples to apples with the same setback from the hitch ball will turn sharper with less hitch extension and a pickle fork boat will weigh more up front and hit the back of the camper sooner.
No googling needed. But you must be in the “Do you even own a boat, bro?” camp that ole Jimh is….
stevenal wrote:
Supertruss
Says 6000/600 at 48" without WD.
Anyone dragging these things on the ground at grade changes? Seems like it wouldn't take much at 48". Might at least want to deal with the suspension sag caused by the camper + tongue.
Supertruss
Says 6000/600 at 48" without WD.
Anyone dragging these things on the ground at grade changes? Seems like it wouldn't take much at 48". Might at least want to deal with the suspension sag caused by the camper + tongue.
I haven't had a problem, but then again my hitch extension is only 34" with 200# tongue weight. Although the camper weighs 4800#.
Just because one type of trailer may need more tongue weight to tow straight doesn’t mean that’s a necessity for other types of trailers. But thanks for playing….
Axle placement, weight behind the axle centerline and distance back from axles, competency of tow rig tires and suspension, wind resistance, type of hitch (ball or pintle), etc all play into how a trailer pulls.
And specifically many smaller boats pleasure boats have the axles placed much further rearward than say a typical travel trailer or enclosed trailer that would either be far too tongue heavy, or an utility or cargo trailer that may be designed to haul different loads with diffenrt weight concentrations or centers of mass.
Hopefully the “new folks” find this info useful or helpful, even if the crusty armchair geezernet QBs can’t help themselves from refuting literally almost everything….
Cheers!
srschang wrote:
To Grit Dog's point about the hitch extension not needing to extend all the way to the back of the camper, here's my setup. The Northstar 12STC camper has 4' of overhang behind my truck bed. The hitch extension is 34" long. It works fine, but if the trailer is 45 degrees or so from straight with the truck & camper, and the trailer is uphill of the truck & camper, the gravel guard on the trailer will scrape paint off the rear jack. I've had to repaint a couple times. And it is a bit of a pain to hook and unhook the trailer.
To Grit Dog's point about the hitch extension not needing to extend all the way to the back of the camper, here's my setup. The Northstar 12STC camper has 4' of overhang behind my truck bed. The hitch extension is 34" long. It works fine, but if the trailer is 45 degrees or so from straight with the truck & camper, and the trailer is uphill of the truck & camper, the gravel guard on the trailer will scrape paint off the rear jack. I've had to repaint a couple times. And it is a bit of a pain to hook and unhook the trailer.
Perzactly!
And if your trailer was a v nose you’d get more rotation before hitting with the same extension length.
Good visual you provided for those who are hard of understanding!
Another example, the old toyhauler vs my v nose enclosed sled trialer.
Towed the sled trailer everywhere jack knifing it into spots, whatever.
Same hitch stinger, couldn’t turn more than maybe 70deg with the toyhauler (square nose) before the trailer would munch the tail lights on the truck. And the tongue was slightly longer on the toyhauler.
stevenal wrote:
Supertruss
Says 6000/600 at 48" without WD.
Anyone dragging these things on the ground at grade changes? Seems like it wouldn't take much at 48". Might at least want to deal with the suspension sag caused by the camper + tongue.
Supertruss
Says 6000/600 at 48" without WD.
Anyone dragging these things on the ground at grade changes? Seems like it wouldn't take much at 48". Might at least want to deal with the suspension sag caused by the camper + tongue.
Yeah, me which is why I installed the torklift skid roller on my 42" supertruss
* This post was edited 06/28/23 06:00pm by Buzzcut1 *
2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags
stevenal wrote:
So if the 48" Supertruss can handle 600 lb tongue weight, does that equate to 600 lb upward force as well?
So if the 48" Supertruss can handle 600 lb tongue weight, does that equate to 600 lb upward force as well?
Not necessarilty. You only get upward force with a weight distribution hitch.
Grit dog wrote:
Although I may just be making this all up according to jimh, lol.
On another note, not sure why it’s so hard for someone like him, who has arguably read most of my posts for like 10 years now, to believe.
Although I may just be making this all up according to jimh, lol.
On another note, not sure why it’s so hard for someone like him, who has arguably read most of my posts for like 10 years now, to believe.
Of course, you are wrong part of the time. Heck, sometimes I am, too. Yep, hard to believe, but I am.
In this case, I posted pretty generic information which you can say is wrong, but it’s hard to prove as “wrong” when I obviously posted as just a possibility.
For those unfamiliar, I drove a SRW for 8 1/2 years. So, I’m “somewhat familiar” with a SRW.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/grin.gif "grin")
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/dBse1JEl.jpg)
This is my Lance 865 on a 2014 mega cab 3500. Overall TC length is 16.5. I use a 2.5" to a 2" extension by Curt (item #C45048 on etrailer). You can read the specs and capacities there.
I cut it down to around 30 in" and it is 24" to the edge of the receiver. The camper overhang is 32" to 34" depending on where you measure from. I don't have tongue weight as it is obviously a flat tow, so not apples to apples. Has worked very well towing all over Colorado.
2014 RAM 3500 SRW Laramie Mega
2021 Lance 865
05 StarCraft Homestead Rancher 29BHTS 5er (make me an offer)
Pullrite Slider hitch
Champion Remote Start 3100 Watt Inverter Gen Set
Champion 2000 watt inverter Gen Set
All torklift
So the camper I decided to go with is the Northern lite as the arctic fox was to heavy for my truck. My truck as stated earlier does have airbags installed. My boat is a 2019 Nautique 210 so a V nose trailer it sits on is 1400 lbs and is 28" inches from ball to upright for my boat winch. I have included a link of my exact camper that im getting.
boat is 4200 dry so add 220 lbs for a full tank Im at 5900 for boat and trailer.
https://www.oconnorrv.com/inventory/New-2023-Northern-Lite-Northern-Lite/442162
jimh406 wrote:
Not necessarilty. You only get upward force with a weight distribution hitch.
stevenal wrote:
So if the 48" Supertruss can handle 600 lb tongue weight, does that equate to 600 lb upward force as well?
So if the 48" Supertruss can handle 600 lb tongue weight, does that equate to 600 lb upward force as well?
Not necessarilty. You only get upward force with a weight distribution hitch.
The upward force I'm speaking of comes from the skid roller on the ground taking weight off of the rear truck suspension.
I still have a roller ball mount in my pack rat collection. Used with the the old truck and camper and light boat and 18" extension. The roller is worn down where it went sideways when turning into a fuel station. The Torklift product doesn't look like it's any better at rolling sideways.
Hemi,
That rear deck looks like it might be problem. Way back there and down as well.
* This post was last edited 07/02/23 11:55am by stevenal *
jimh406 wrote:
Of course, you are wrong part of the time. Heck, sometimes I am, too. Yep, hard to believe, but I am.
In this case, I posted pretty generic information which you can say is wrong, but it’s hard to prove as “wrong” when I obviously posted as just a possibility.
For those unfamiliar, I drove a SRW for 8 1/2 years. So, I’m “somewhat familiar” with a SRW.
Grit dog wrote:
Although I may just be making this all up according to jimh, lol.
On another note, not sure why it’s so hard for someone like him, who has arguably read most of my posts for like 10 years now, to believe.
Although I may just be making this all up according to jimh, lol.
On another note, not sure why it’s so hard for someone like him, who has arguably read most of my posts for like 10 years now, to believe.
Of course, you are wrong part of the time. Heck, sometimes I am, too. Yep, hard to believe, but I am.
In this case, I posted pretty generic information which you can say is wrong, but it’s hard to prove as “wrong” when I obviously posted as just a possibility.
For those unfamiliar, I drove a SRW for 8 1/2 years. So, I’m “somewhat familiar” with a SRW.
Cool story bro…
You knew what truck and what campers the OP was considering as well. Even the basic type and weights on the trailer he was talking about. And with that info you surmised he’d be overweight and then you skipped right past the hitch section and went into weight cop mode.
Can’t back pedal now. I’m sure you know a thing r 2 about trucks and campers as well. Yet I didn’t question whether you were making up your experience. Just that you hit the dually button right outta the gates.
Have a great day!
* This post was edited 07/02/23 03:45pm by Hemisport *
Hemisport wrote:
Dealer has sold many and say towing not an issue. I ordered the new hitch today with the 48" truss.Only difference there should be is my truck box is a tad shorter that a standard short box. This is why I went with the 48"
Dealer has sold many and say towing not an issue. I ordered the new hitch today with the 48" truss.Only difference there should be is my truck box is a tad shorter that a standard short box. This is why I went with the 48"
The big TL hitch and super truss will be more than beefy enough to haul your boat with confidence.
However beer in mind that you’re increasing the effective load on the rear axle with the hitch weight and trailer tongue weight moment by about double of what it is pulling straight off the factory receiver.
Rear wheels and tires capacities are your real world limiting factors here. And part of the reason (besides being cheap and being able to get away with a much shorter hitch extension and having a much lighter duty receiver than the one you’re getting) I kept the extension as short as possible.
Our boats are nearly identical in size and weight and trailer configuration. Except I have a little heavier estimated tongue weight. It’s running around 500lbs with my X2.
Happy trails!
![[image]]([IMG]https://i.imgur.com/xEpe9Nyl.jpg)
[/img]
stevenal wrote:
Is that 5" to the COG of the camper alone? If so, your actual COG will move aft when you put weight on the tongue. Where does your truck's camper certification say your COG should be?
Is that 5" to the COG of the camper alone? If so, your actual COG will move aft when you put weight on the tongue. Where does your truck's camper certification say your COG should be?
You’re getting a little out over your skis here…too many episodes of Matlock for some folks maybe….(funny as I just took a break from reviewing deposition documents and it clicked that there’s a lot of wanna be lawyers out there! Lol)
What is important is whether the chassis will handle the weight (which it will just fine, including the added load of the super truss and trailer (although personally I’d shorten up the extension as much as possible)), whether the tires and wheels will handle the weight and whether any weight behind the rear axle will reduce the front axle load enough to cause any danger or ill handling.
The camper placement alone won’t even get close to unloading the front axle to anywhere near even the as built gasser trucks. That tank of an engine that is also great ballast. And even with camper and boat, body measurements will confirm that it’s definitely pulling weight off the front axle, but the front end is so heavy with the diesel, the truck can give up 6-700lbs of FA weight and the only thing that changes is the bad roads are a little easier on the ball joints.
Anyone can do the math if they are reasonably capable of solving simple moment equations and prove the same thing on paper as real world, that the OPs setup isn’t going to reduce the FA weight enough to cause an issue.
So now we’re back to rear wheel assemblies and rear suspension. And that’s it.
Grit dog wrote:
Anyone can do the math if they are reasonably capable of solving simple moment equations
Anyone can do the math if they are reasonably capable of solving simple moment equations
Most people forgot the simple moments lessons they had in 5th grade, which is why there is so much misinformation and just plain wrong information on these forums.
mkirsch wrote:
Most people forgot the simple moments lessons they had in 5th grade, which is why there is so much misinformation and just plain wrong information on these forums.
Grit dog wrote:
Anyone can do the math if they are reasonably capable of solving simple moment equations
Anyone can do the math if they are reasonably capable of solving simple moment equations
Most people forgot the simple moments lessons they had in 5th grade, which is why there is so much misinformation and just plain wrong information on these forums.
True, although google will do calculus and diff eq for you if you want it to. That’s how I had to cheat a couple years ago to pretend I remembered it to help our boy with his calc homework…
But you’re totally right.
What I sometimes fail to consider is my livelihood and liability often revolve around not screwing up a moment calculation. Although it comes in handy more than just at work!
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/tBABBsul.jpg)
Cantilevering 1000s of tons of steel is very similar to a trailer hitch extension just bigger numbers.
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
* This post was edited 07/06/23 10:41am by Hemisport *
3 tons
3 tons wrote:
Well, FWIW with camper aboard, I just towed our trailer using a new 2.5”, 41” - 48” Reese (Draw-Tite) extension which weighs a whopping 56# even without the ball hitch…I’d previously added a Curt commercial direct bolt on 2800# hitch which mounts just below the less robust 1800# OEM hitch…Before leaving, I measured the enclosed trailer’s tongue weight at about 525# (using a tongue scale) and used the 41” pin-to-pin length…I’d estimate the V nose off-road machine trailer weight to be at about 4500# and with added V nose cabinetry and such is admittedly a bit nose heavy…Our 200mi one way trip to the higher desert went smoothly..
3 tons
Well, FWIW with camper aboard, I just towed our trailer using a new 2.5”, 41” - 48” Reese (Draw-Tite) extension which weighs a whopping 56# even without the ball hitch…I’d previously added a Curt commercial direct bolt on 2800# hitch which mounts just below the less robust 1800# OEM hitch…Before leaving, I measured the enclosed trailer’s tongue weight at about 525# (using a tongue scale) and used the 41” pin-to-pin length…I’d estimate the V nose off-road machine trailer weight to be at about 4500# and with added V nose cabinetry and such is admittedly a bit nose heavy…Our 200mi one way trip to the higher desert went smoothly..
3 tons
What’s the rest of your setup ?
Hemisport wrote:
Well, I’m going run it for now and if I find it bad I will get a new 1 ton Chevy short box which gives you the 6’8” box as opposed to 6’4”
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
Well, I’m going run it for now and if I find it bad I will get a new 1 ton Chevy short box which gives you the 6’8” box as opposed to 6’4”
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
Keep in mind that the max payload is usually for a stripped down 2 door, gasoline, and 2 WD truck. Maybe you know that.
However, the biggest advantage is the Chevy has probably all of those inches in front of the rear axle which will effectively move the COG forward. Similarly, if you can go with a Supercab/Extended cab, it will also move the weight forward relative to the front axle. If you need a crew, that won't work of course.
Hemisport wrote:
Well, I’m going run it for now and if I find it bad I will get a new 1 ton Chevy short box which gives you the 6’8” box as opposed to 6’4”
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
Well, I’m going run it for now and if I find it bad I will get a new 1 ton Chevy short box which gives you the 6’8” box as opposed to 6’4”
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
You would gain about 5” of camper cog moving forward but it literally won’t matter, as your camper will still be 98-100% riding over the rear axle but the rear xtra wheelbase length of the Mega will partially counteract that as is and you have no issue now with too much weight unloading on the front axle. With no other discern-able advantages for your hauling purposes other than having a fresh new truck that is more refined.
And you won’t have 6klbs payload or anywhere near that (by the sticker or real world) with any OE srw truck, even if it was a stripped down single cab gasser.
Keep that in mind before spending $100k cdn plus fitting up another truck.
jimh406 wrote:
Keep in mind that the max payload is usually for a stripped down 2 door, gasoline, and 2 WD truck. Maybe you know that.
However, the biggest advantage is the Chevy has probably all of those inches in front of the rear axle which will effectively move the COG forward. Similarly, if you can go with a Supercab/Extended cab, it will also move the weight forward relative to the front axle. If you need a crew, that won't work of course.
Hemisport wrote:
Well, I’m going run it for now and if I find it bad I will get a new 1 ton Chevy short box which gives you the 6’8” box as opposed to 6’4”
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
Well, I’m going run it for now and if I find it bad I will get a new 1 ton Chevy short box which gives you the 6’8” box as opposed to 6’4”
And the payload is apparently close to 6 k on the srw Chevy
Keep in mind that the max payload is usually for a stripped down 2 door, gasoline, and 2 WD truck. Maybe you know that.
However, the biggest advantage is the Chevy has probably all of those inches in front of the rear axle which will effectively move the COG forward. Similarly, if you can go with a Supercab/Extended cab, it will also move the weight forward relative to the front axle. If you need a crew, that won't work of course.
Correct, the additional bed length is forward of the axle, but…
The additional cab to axle minus the additional wheelbase works out to around $33,000 per inch of effective camper center of gravity relocation when there’s no problem with that now.
And a shorter cab with a short bed as the OP has said won’t move more weight forward, it’ll be just slightly less stable due to a shorter wheelbase. And I guess save a few lbs off the empty rear axle weight.
What the OP or you proposed is literally not any significant or meaningful geometric upgrade from his current truck.
Grit dog wrote:
What the OP or you proposed is literally not any significant or meaningful geometric upgrade from his current truck.
What the OP or you proposed is literally not any significant or meaningful geometric upgrade from his current truck.
Maybe autocorrect changed your word to geometric.
. Maybe you had a different spellchecker mistake with the $33,000 per inch comment.Anyway, I didn't tell him to upgrade to a different SRW or keep it. However, unless someone really needs a SRW, I'd suggest something different. And, if that different vehicle is a choice, then hopefully pick the replacement before purchasing the TC.
Nothing radical, but kind of funny that my first post in this thread seems to have been on the right track .... it's still up to the person spending the money to decide.
Hemisport wrote:
What’s the rest of your setup ?
3 tons wrote:
Well, FWIW with camper aboard, I just towed our trailer using a new 2.5”, 41” - 48” Reese (Draw-Tite) extension which weighs a whopping 56# even without the ball hitch…I’d previously added a Curt commercial direct bolt on 2800# hitch which mounts just below the less robust 1800# OEM hitch…Before leaving, I measured the enclosed trailer’s tongue weight at about 525# (using a tongue scale) and used the 41” pin-to-pin length…I’d estimate the V nose off-road machine trailer weight to be at about 4500# and with added V nose cabinetry and such is admittedly a bit nose heavy…Our 200mi one way trip to the higher desert went smoothly..
3 tons
Well, FWIW with camper aboard, I just towed our trailer using a new 2.5”, 41” - 48” Reese (Draw-Tite) extension which weighs a whopping 56# even without the ball hitch…I’d previously added a Curt commercial direct bolt on 2800# hitch which mounts just below the less robust 1800# OEM hitch…Before leaving, I measured the enclosed trailer’s tongue weight at about 525# (using a tongue scale) and used the 41” pin-to-pin length…I’d estimate the V nose off-road machine trailer weight to be at about 4500# and with added V nose cabinetry and such is admittedly a bit nose heavy…Our 200mi one way trip to the higher desert went smoothly..
3 tons
What’s the rest of your setup ?
16 Ram 3500, 6.7, CC, DRW, 4x4, 4.10, 14k GVWR, 2009 Eagle Cap 995 (5,150k# est), 14’ V nose enclosed RZR trailer, RZR 1000, 660w rooftop solar, 360w ground deployable solar, two 200 a/h Lithium…
Upgrading next week to a 2023 5500 Ram 4x4, 6.7, 4.44, CC Laramie, 19.5 alloy wheels, CM flatbed 19.5k GVWR…
3 tons
jimh406 wrote:
Maybe autocorrect changed your word to geometric.. Maybe you had a different spellchecker mistake with the $33,000 per inch comment.
Anyway, I didn't tell him to upgrade to a different SRW or keep it. However, unless someone really needs a SRW, I'd suggest something different. And, if that different vehicle is a choice, then hopefully pick the replacement before purchasing the TC.
Nothing radical, but kind of funny that my first post in this thread seems to have been on the right track .... it's still up to the person spending the money to decide.
Grit dog wrote:
What the OP or you proposed is literally not any significant or meaningful geometric upgrade from his current truck.
What the OP or you proposed is literally not any significant or meaningful geometric upgrade from his current truck.
Maybe autocorrect changed your word to geometric.
. Maybe you had a different spellchecker mistake with the $33,000 per inch comment.Anyway, I didn't tell him to upgrade to a different SRW or keep it. However, unless someone really needs a SRW, I'd suggest something different. And, if that different vehicle is a choice, then hopefully pick the replacement before purchasing the TC.
Nothing radical, but kind of funny that my first post in this thread seems to have been on the right track .... it's still up to the person spending the money to decide.
It’s ok if you don’t understand, Jim.