Then to top it off, said person exudes the opinion that their way is the best and whether it has good basis or not, they will argue it vehemently.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
If you have an absorption fridge and it's working fine then don't even consider a 12V fridge.
If your absorption fridge quits working then you have a choice to make.
Stay the course or go 12V with solar and batteries. The choice is easier to make if you already have solar and batteries and your absorption fridge dies.
If you buy a new RV that comes with a 12V compressor fridge as OEM then you also have a choice to make. Add more solar to be able to boondock or don't if you mostly use elec hookups.
I've never read anywhere that someone took out their perfectly working absorption fridge and replaced it with a new 12V fridge because they wanted to boondock a lot.
Two weeks?
30-nights?
Build a plan around all capacities.
Factor weather and filtering own water to refill fresh tank.
(Dig a hole to empty black/grey; this is a thought-exercise).
It’ll come down to propane every time.
Solar panel ADDITION is nice, but one can beef the TV charging ability to do the same.
A bit of solar. More A-H capacity. And a third propane tank.
You tell us you’ve found great Aunt Mabel’s squirrel stew recipe, we’ll know you’ve found the end.
FWIW, I use a Dometic portable in the big truck as a deep freeze. That’d be worth having while camping (kept in covered pickup bed) where engine-run or solar panel befitted a A VERY LOW USE 12V item (not opened except rarely). Some dry ice goes a very long ways.
All-electric is a lie. Hybrid MIGHT have some kind of future, so look to that way of thinking.
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* This post was edited 02/10/22 10:11am by BackOfThePack *
2004 555 CTD QC LB NV-5600
1990 35’ Silver Streak
BackOfThePack wrote:
It’s worth taking the thoughts expressed, and — as some have — look at the RV total nights aboard times X-persons without a supply run.
Two weeks?
30-nights?
Build a plan around all capacities.
Factor weather and filtering own water to refill fresh tank.
(Dig a hole to empty black/grey; this is a thought-exercise).
It’ll come down to propane every time.
It’s worth taking the thoughts expressed, and — as some have — look at the RV total nights aboard times X-persons without a supply run.
Two weeks?
30-nights?
Build a plan around all capacities.
Factor weather and filtering own water to refill fresh tank.
(Dig a hole to empty black/grey; this is a thought-exercise).
It’ll come down to propane every time.
I'll add, for most RVs, unless camping in weather that requires the furnace to run frequently, propane is the least concern for capacity.
20lb bottle will run a fridge 24/7 and "normal" daily cooking and hot water needs for, Idk how long, but over a month. And most RVs are packing double 20s or 30s.
ajriding wrote:
My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.
My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.
Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it
As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.
BurbMan wrote:
Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it
ajriding wrote:
My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.
My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.
Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it
AJ, Yup, not an issue. How often are you parked or driving on slopes that are greater than 6% or 12% grades. Typical absorption fridges are 3&6 degrees max. Yes it happens, but the vast majority of roads and “parking areas” are not steeped than this.
Grit dog wrote:
AJ, Yup, not an issue. How often are you parked or driving on slopes that are greater than 6% or 12% grades. Typical absorption fridges are 3&6 degrees max. Yes it happens, but the vast majority of roads and “parking areas” are not steeped than this.
BurbMan wrote:
Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it
ajriding wrote:
My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.
My biggest gripe with propane fridge is keeping it level. Not an issue when I am officially parked at my camp spot, but when traveling and parking for a little bit to go see stuff, go shopping or anything that requires parking the fridge was just too big a part of life and far too needy. Keep it level or ruin it or turn it off before parking out of level. I think if you park un-level then turn it off there is those minutes where the burner is hot, still cooking and small amounts of damage could occur. I do not know for sure when the damage begins after parking off-level though.
Running a propane fridge off-level for short durations like you describe won't hurt it
AJ, Yup, not an issue. How often are you parked or driving on slopes that are greater than 6% or 12% grades. Typical absorption fridges are 3&6 degrees max. Yes it happens, but the vast majority of roads and “parking areas” are not steeped than this.
The vast majority of RV-ers won't realize this, but the new absorption fridges are actually very forgiving from a leveling perspective. My family had a shop in the '70's and the older absorption fridges would lock up if they were run for 20 minutes out of level. And by out of level I mean a 1/2 bubble using a bulls eye level in the freezer compartment. The way to fix a locked up fridge was to take it out and turn it upside down for 24 hours........So for me, in my mind, complaining about leveling is a non issue.....but, everyone has their own mind and their own issues...........
V-465
2013 GMC 2500HD Duramax Denali. 2015 CreekSide 20fq w/450 watts solar and 465 amp/hour of batteries. Retired and living the dream!
BurbMan wrote:
The question is too general, really...in a Class A MH or Class B van where you have diesel-powered hydronic floor heating using a 12v compressor fridge allows you to skip onboard propane altogether, eliminating a whole mechanical system. On a trailer, you need propane for heat, so going to a 12v compressor fridge doesn't allow you avoid carrying propane.
As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.
The question is too general, really...in a Class A MH or Class B van where you have diesel-powered hydronic floor heating using a 12v compressor fridge allows you to skip onboard propane altogether, eliminating a whole mechanical system. On a trailer, you need propane for heat, so going to a 12v compressor fridge doesn't allow you avoid carrying propane.
As someone said, cloudy days don't last, so if you're parked somewhere and have 6 batteries to hold you over, then solar is a good option. If you camp for a weekend when it's overcast for 3 days, you'll for sure need that genset to power a 12v compressor fridge.
hpw are you cooking in that class A or B? still need propane for that unless you have gone to some different style of stove that takes a more expensive fuel.
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100
Those coaches also have electric cooktops and ovens.
These so called all electric rigs are a real phenomenom.
19'Duramax w/hips,12'Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
BD3,RV safepower,22" Blackstone
Ox Bedsaver,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,5500 Onan LP,Prog.50A surge,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan,Sailun S637
Correct Trax,Splendide
