https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUHwxxwNuOQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNCnwXOh1ng
CavemanCharlie wrote:
I heard a person saying that one of the popular RV manufactures were going to discontinue absorption fridges and switch to only using these.
The only reason they'd be doing that is because of cost, and unwary customers. The gas refers, imho, are still the best for dry camping.
I heard a person saying that one of the popular RV manufactures were going to discontinue absorption fridges and switch to only using these.
* This post was edited 03/29/21 02:01pm by 2oldman *
The folks saying RV makers are going to abandon Absorption fridges. A technology that's older than my Grandfather.. Way older and grandpa was a refrigeration engineer (Maternal side he died before I was born by about a month) I think those folks are talking through their hat as once was said.
They are, however, offering electric as an option.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
Back story is that my 1.5 year old Norcold had clogged lines. I tried everything to remedy the situation except take it out and burp it. It started to not cool after the 1st year. everything was fine as far as the heating element on gas or elect. I did the by pass fix and the temps never wavier'd much from the outside ambient temps. I even installed two fans on the roof cover to help draw air up pass the lines.
I could've went with a JC refrigeration convert kit but decided to not have to deal with the Norcold electronics that also seem to be an issue from time to time.
started researching and it seems that 12V fridges have been in the marine world for years. I found my GE at a local appliance store. $950 with a 3 year warranty. about the same price for the JC conversion. But I got 2 more cu.ft, don't have to deal with propane or the whole elec to propane back and forth situation. The GE cools down in a few hrs and holds 35-36 and -4 to 10 on the freezer. It's quiet and I can run it while traveling without worries.
My 12V fridge is 9.8 cu.ft and fit right in the hole for the 8 (7.5) cu.ft Nevercold.
I wired it directly to a 12V breaker on my converter box.
Used some of the NC trims to finish it off.
Inside is like a res fridge. More open and usable. If this one fails I'll get another 12V.
I will say though you do need good batteries and at least some solar. 200W would be sufficient for several days of nice weather and not using the house batteries for big items. Solar's free and panels aren't much if you shop around. Mine were only $95 or so each. Pick up a simple solar charger and thats all.
The extra room and simplicity alone are worth it to me. I would never do a res fridge as they require an inverter and draw too much power.
wa8yxm wrote:
The folks saying RV makers are going to abandon Absorption fridges. A technology that's older than my Grandfather.. Way older and grandpa was a refrigeration engineer (Maternal side he died before I was born by about a month) I think those folks are talking through their hat as once was said.
They are, however, offering electric as an option.
The folks saying RV makers are going to abandon Absorption fridges. A technology that's older than my Grandfather.. Way older and grandpa was a refrigeration engineer (Maternal side he died before I was born by about a month) I think those folks are talking through their hat as once was said.
They are, however, offering electric as an option.
Kind of like Ford offered any color you want as long as it's black.
We bought a trailer last fall and almost no absorption fridges available.
Not 100% sold yet on durability but so far no issues with 6 months. They did include what they refer to as a "juice pack" but it's a little underbuilt. It's a 50w solar panel, 10amp controller and a single battery. They recommend turning the thermostat down when boondocking to reduce amp-hrs used. Eventually, we will get a portable solar panel to supplement along with a 2nd battery.
The pros is for the same space, it has around 30% more interior space. Also, it cools much quicker when you load it up.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
valhalla360 wrote:
They did include what they refer to as a "juice pack" but it's a little underbuilt. It's a 50w solar panel, 10amp controller and a single battery.
Underbuilt would be an understatement. 50w of solar is almost nothing.
They did include what they refer to as a "juice pack" but it's a little underbuilt. It's a 50w solar panel, 10amp controller and a single battery.
2oldman wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
They did include what they refer to as a "juice pack" but it's a little underbuilt. It's a 50w solar panel, 10amp controller and a single battery.
Underbuilt would be an understatement. 50w of solar is almost nothing.They did include what they refer to as a "juice pack" but it's a little underbuilt. It's a 50w solar panel, 10amp controller and a single battery.
We've only utilized it a couple times and battery was down to about 12.5v by morning. Once the sun was up, voltage stabilized but each time we were hitting the road, so didn't get a chance to see if it would recharge.
Of course, that's just running the fridge and a couple lights. Of course, it's not going to support larger loads.
marthasmith19o2 wrote:
Hi, I need advice on wher6e can I get the best service for Fridge Repair Dubai within budget.
Hi, I need advice on wher6e can I get the best service for Fridge Repair Dubai within budget.
Try https://rv-binlahej.com/
Or search on google.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
The lowest irresponsible bidder.
Eveb Dometic and Norcold had to stoop to that level to remain competitive.
RV manufacturers are always looking for cheaper options to hold or increase the bottom line. They're not your friend, just review the convoluted warranties. These Everchill refrigerators are cheaper for them to buy and install. The cabinetry is cheaper to construct, no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required. A lot less install labor and material overall. You still pay for the entire RV and they have not gotten cheaper.
You don't have much choice though, you're going to be buying ****. That is unless your spending a few hundred thousand or more.
GDS-3950BH wrote:
no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required.
no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required.
This is something I consider a big positive.
Leaks are usually what kills an RV and leaks typically come from holes in the roof.
AllegroD wrote:
Who lets their lead acid 12v battery drain to 9.48v?
Who lets their lead acid 12v battery drain to 9.48v?
The same ones who may have extremely short cycle life from an LI bank by relying on the battery management system to "protect" them.
SiO2 would be a much better fit for folks who just want to plug and play.
AllegroD wrote:
Who lets their lead acid 12v battery drain to 9.48v?
Seriously. You have to have a bit of education to know when a salesman is blowing smoke.
Who lets their lead acid 12v battery drain to 9.48v?
* This post was edited 03/31/21 11:47am by 2oldman *
100% correct (as usual).
valhalla360 wrote:
This is something I consider a big positive.
Leaks are usually what kills an RV and leaks typically come from holes in the roof.
GDS-3950BH wrote:
no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required.
no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required.
This is something I consider a big positive.
Leaks are usually what kills an RV and leaks typically come from holes in the roof.
An RV with an electric fridge still has "holes in the roof". So you might have 1 less hole in the roof which matters little if you have two vents,AC,skylight,a plumbing vent or two, and a TV antenna. I don't know how having 7 holes in the roof is a big positve over 8 holes in the roof, but whatever floats your boat I guess.
As one who typically camped at Fed/USACE and State Park campgrounds, which typically have a much higher percentage of rustic sites to FHU or even electric only sites, I'll take the 2 way absorption fridge. There are many campgrounds around these parts where all the sites are rustic. Folks who need all the conveniences of home avoid them and thats a good thing. I don't really care to mess with generators, banks of batteries, inverters, and arrays of solar panels. It would be easier to use a Yeti.
The rustic sites can almost be had at any time easily, even on holiday weekends, and can be the quietest and nicest sites in the campground, and usually are.
Now when ones desire is to sit in a box, 10' from someone else sitting in a box, then an Everchill makes all the sense in the world. It's still a piece of cheap garbage however. or the manufacturers would not be installing them.
GDS-3950BH wrote:
An RV with an electric fridge still has "holes in the roof". So you might have 1 less hole in the roof which matters little if you have two vents,AC,skylight,a plumbing vent or two, and a TV antenna. I don't know how having 7 holes in the roof is a big positve over 8 holes in the roof, but whatever floats your boat I guess.
valhalla360 wrote:
This is something I consider a big positive.
Leaks are usually what kills an RV and leaks typically come from holes in the roof.
GDS-3950BH wrote:
no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required.
no gas service is needed, and no wall or roof venting is required.
This is something I consider a big positive.
Leaks are usually what kills an RV and leaks typically come from holes in the roof.
An RV with an electric fridge still has "holes in the roof". So you might have 1 less hole in the roof which matters little if you have two vents,AC,skylight,a plumbing vent or two, and a TV antenna. I don't know how having 7 holes in the roof is a big positve over 8 holes in the roof, but whatever floats your boat I guess.
Each hole is a chance for a leak. No hole, no leak.
Although it is handy if you need to work on the compressor and to wire up the 12V connection. But it's not needed for ventilation like an absorption fridge needs.
So thats 2 holes less when using a 12V fridge.
JRscooby wrote:
Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?
Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?
It doesn't, but some think you have a huge benefit by having 1 less hole in a roof. Whatever LOL.
GDS-3950BH wrote:
some think you have a huge benefit by having 1 less hole in a roof. Whatever LOL.
I put 48 holes in my roof to mount my solar panels. Just don't be stingy with the Dicor!
some think you have a huge benefit by having 1 less hole in a roof. Whatever LOL.
JRscooby wrote:
Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?
Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?
It doesn't...that's a nice advantage. But some people seem to think, leaks don't tend to concentrate around holes in the roof membrane.
Obviously, it's not a 100% solution to leaks but it's a start. Honestly, most of the holes in the roof could be eliminated.
- Properly done sewer vents in the side wall would be less leak prone.
- With cheap low wattage LED, the need for roof hatches to let in light are not as important.
If you eliminate all the roof penetrations, the standard rubber roofs will hold up much better with less maintenance. Even better metal or fiberglass roofs become much cheaper options and are even less leak prone.
Slapping another layer of dicor sounds good but reality is most RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks.
2oldman wrote:
OP, let us know what you decide on.
OP, let us know what you decide on.
I have no decision to make. I just happened to see something about it on You Tube and I thought I would ask what all of you think.
I am very happy with the gas/electric fridge on my 1993 Travel Trailer. It works well and allows me to dry camp.
On the other hand, my brother has a 2018 5th wheel and his gas/electric fridge will not keep things cold in slightly hot weather. It will also not keep things cold while towing. His fridge is one of those with no temp controls on the eyebrow. You are supposed to slide the thermister up and down on the coils to control the temp. I had a buddy that had one of those fridges too and it never worked with a darned either.
The poor build quality and design of some of these never gas/electric fridges has killed the industry.
My old TT is wore out and I'm almost afraid to get a newer one. Besides the fridges not keeping things cold in newer RV's. The AC's in newer RV's seem to be awful too. I can turn my TT into a refrigerator setting in the sun on a 90+ degree day. But, many people say that they can not.
Oh well, I'm going to squeeze one more year out of my rig. After that I will see what happens. .
valhalla360 wrote:
It doesn't...that's a nice advantage. But some people seem to think, leaks don't tend to concentrate around holes in the roof membrane.
Obviously, it's not a 100% solution to leaks but it's a start. Honestly, most of the holes in the roof could be eliminated.
- Properly done sewer vents in the side wall would be less leak prone.
- With cheap low wattage LED, the need for roof hatches to let in light are not as important.
If you eliminate all the roof penetrations, the standard rubber roofs will hold up much better with less maintenance. Even better metal or fiberglass roofs become much cheaper options and are even less leak prone.
Slapping another layer of dicor sounds good but reality is most RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks.
JRscooby wrote:
Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?
Why does a compressor fridge require a hole in the roof?
It doesn't...that's a nice advantage. But some people seem to think, leaks don't tend to concentrate around holes in the roof membrane.
Obviously, it's not a 100% solution to leaks but it's a start. Honestly, most of the holes in the roof could be eliminated.
- Properly done sewer vents in the side wall would be less leak prone.
- With cheap low wattage LED, the need for roof hatches to let in light are not as important.
If you eliminate all the roof penetrations, the standard rubber roofs will hold up much better with less maintenance. Even better metal or fiberglass roofs become much cheaper options and are even less leak prone.
Slapping another layer of dicor sounds good but reality is most RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks.
IMHO, roof leaks on RVs are 100% fault of consumers willingness to replace a camper destroyed by water leaks with another one likely to be destroyed by water leak. Sure, the tell you we promise it won't leak as long as you are willing to mess around with it a couple times a year. And it's not like nobody knows how to make a roof that won't leak.
My '67 Pete had 1 roof vent in cab, 2 in sleeper. About '79, I replaced the gaskets on the vents. Not because of water coming in. The covers would rattle like crazy, but still keep water out.
You say the RV roof is much bigger. True, but Pete knows how to make a seam. If you can make 1 water tight seam, you can make 10, or 100. A friend's '85 Pete had a rock, about 500lb. dropped on top of sleeper. No leak. When it got cold, the lake on the roof changed into a block of ice. Worry about that falling into traffic, we pushed roof up with a jack. Still no leak
* This post was edited 04/07/21 12:41pm by an administrator/moderator *