I am considering a Class C for a cross country trip from VA to WA, but most that I am finding in my price range are older (1980s/90s/early 2000s)... Given low miles and no major current issues upon inspection, are these generally reliable enough to be trusted for a cross country trip? I am feeling the need to be extra careful as I will be traveling as a lone woman (not including the several pets along for the ride).
Are there any makes/models that have a particularly good reputation for longevity? Or conversely any that I should avoid?
Would it be better to absolutely find a newer model? And if so, from what year on would be best?
Thank you so much!! I welcome any and all advice!!
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad
pianotuna wrote:
Avoid Ford Chassis between 1998 to 2004 due to spark plug issues.
Avoid Ford Chassis between 1998 to 2004 due to spark plug issues.
Pay someone to change the plugs !
pianotuna wrote:
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis parts, hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis parts, hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
Concur, especially on the last three !
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
IMHO, anything over 10 years old needs a new roof. Not just a coating, but peel off the rubber membrane, inspect for rot and replace.
* This post was edited 11/15/20 06:53am by theoldwizard1 *
Assuming you can afford whatever the mechanical inspection reveals, once fixed, it should be no more of a risk than any vehicle for cross-country.
Make sure you have Good Sam Road Side or equivalent!!!! That is key for your scenario.
the House side is a mix of must have working and things you can live with not working. Some are easy fixes, some appliance repairs can be expensive when they can't find the problem right away.
You can have "car trouble" with any age of vehicle. For a cross-country all you need is road-side insurance and a Visa card with a huge credit limit. Also a cell phone with no time limit when the road side insurance puts you on hold while they find you some help.
You need to be able to house your pets too, if the MH is in the garage over a weekend someplace along the way. Some motels will, some won't.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
You gain a new reliable vehicle and an rv that is less expensive to maintain than a motorhome
If the trailer does have some kind of repair issue you simply bring along a tent. Tents are pet friendly.
After your lease is up in 24 or 36 months then you might be in a better position to afford something different.
pianotuna wrote:
Avoid Ford Chassis between 1998 to 2004 due to spark plug issues.
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
Avoid Ford Chassis between 1998 to 2004 due to spark plug issues.
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
We bought a new E-450 in 2001 and used until 2015. Never had any spark plug problem, nor any other real problems.
Dusty
pianotuna wrote:
Avoid Ford Chassis between 1998 to 2004 due to spark plug issues.
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
Avoid Ford Chassis between 1998 to 2004 due to spark plug issues.
Be prepared to replace the tires, fan belts, and chassis hoses.
Look for water damage to the "house"
Look harder for water damage.
LOOK EVEN HARDER FOR WATER DAMAGE.
We bought a new E-450 in 2001 and used until 2015. Never had any spark plug problem, nor any other real problems.
Dusty
We are told by our mechanic that the Ford F-450, as long as maintained, is a very good, reliable engine.
You could just drive the Class C across country, then make a vehicle purchase when you get there. At least, you'll have something to drive (and/or stay in) when you are getting settled. And you'll have your Class C for future travels.
You do not have to get out of the Class C in case of rain or whatever. It would be convenient to sleep in a rest stop or in a store parking lot. (with permission secured by phoning). We often rest at small county/city parks(not campgrounds) during our travels for a mid-day nap, snack and/or walk.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Mike Leslie
2003 Winnebago Minnie
Most RV's only are driven some 5000 miles per year, some even less. Taking the above possibilities into account, you might come out ahead renting a motorhome if you don't foresee continuing the "hobby".
Otherwise, buying a newer used motorhome. around 3-4 years old, might be a better option. In any case, ask questions and get a prospective "buy" inspected by a pro truck mechanic and a trustworthy RV service shop and get an itemized list of repairs/upgrades needed with parts and labor estimates. Make sure that everything works properly. Sign up for emergency road service.
Tortiemctortiepants wrote:
I am considering a Class C for a cross country trip from VA to WA, but most that I am finding in my price range are older (1980s/90s/early 2000s)... Given low miles and no major current issues upon inspection, are these generally reliable enough to be trusted for a cross country trip? I am feeling the need to be extra careful as I will be traveling as a lone woman (not including the several pets along for the ride).
Are there any makes/models that have a particularly good reputation for longevity? Or conversely any that I should avoid?
Would it be better to absolutely find a newer model? And if so, from what year on would be best?
Thank you so much!! I welcome any and all advice!!
I am considering a Class C for a cross country trip from VA to WA, but most that I am finding in my price range are older (1980s/90s/early 2000s)... Given low miles and no major current issues upon inspection, are these generally reliable enough to be trusted for a cross country trip? I am feeling the need to be extra careful as I will be traveling as a lone woman (not including the several pets along for the ride).
Are there any makes/models that have a particularly good reputation for longevity? Or conversely any that I should avoid?
Would it be better to absolutely find a newer model? And if so, from what year on would be best?
Thank you so much!! I welcome any and all advice!!
You don't state how much you want to spend or the length of the vehicle you are considering. '80's, '90's, '20's is a pretty wide range of years where the price can/will vary substantially. Condition is everything. Generally, the newer it is, the more reliable the vehicle will be, but that doesn't preclude buying an older vehicle if the price is right and it was well cared for and repaired in a timely/competent manner. If you lack the experience to determine that, hire someone who does before you buy. Be prepared to "walk away" from any deal that doesn't feel right. Take your time. The buyer is always in control. (until you give it up) RV's are complex vehicles. Expect things to break. They always do, so, be prepared.
That said, (flame suit on) IMO, an older popular Ford V-10 (E350, E450 chassis) isn't an issue (spark plugs) as long as they have been previously properly repaired. IMO, don't buy a longer (more than 24' in length) Class C on an E350 chassis, get one on the E450 chassis. Over time, . . . you'll be glad you did. If you need an RV longer than 28', consider a Class A. Much cheaper.
Chum lee
Quote:
I will be traveling as a lone woman (not including the several pets along for the ride).
I will be traveling as a lone woman (not including the several pets along for the ride).
Lets not forget this part .
Her chances of a break down with an older rv that she has not owned since new and has no idea about its history is IMO, not a good idea. I think people will try to use her situation against her, being a lone female at the mercy of some unknown garage in an unfamiliar town. Its not the same as a male with mechanical knowledge operating an older rv that HE has OWNED since new.
If you have time see if there is a basic auto maintenance class available in your area so that you would have some idea of what to look at and what you are being told. There is a group of ladies around (do an internet search) and they would be the best source of information for your situation. Also it depends on the size of the animals you plan to haul around as to length, but again I would recommend nothing over 28ft and would be leary of those that are shorter since they really do not offer much room even for a single.
Something else is what do you have plan for for emergencies? breakdowns (good sam has age limit on the units) personal protection?
Another thing I was told was to avoid units from where there is salt in the air, (seasides, flooding etc). So the advice of getting it inspected by someone knowledgeable is the best you would be able to do. New tires (6-7 will run over $1000, basic service will vary but expect another $1000 for belts, brakes shocks alignment etc) I was quoted $700 just to replace brake pads and install shocks this past summer! 4 new tire in the rear cost me around $800 with in being under warranty at time so less to pay. A tread separation on my pickup cost around $4K to repair so you can imagine what tire damage could do to an RV particularly an older one where there are not any readily available replacement parts. Also you should consider a towed vehicle as a breakdown can leave you out of everything phone range. tow range etc. Yes you can rent but how do you get there to do so?
Newer vehicles also have issues, ours is 2012 we had a mechanical breakdown that took almost a week to fix. Shop let us stay in the rv on the lot but that is generally the exception not the rule. My out of pocket was around $400, GS covered the rest, to include towing.
So really there are a lot of variables to answer your question and it will really come down to what makes you comfortable and fits your budget. I am including a mix of A's and C's for you to look at. I am not associated with any of these so dont really have any knowledge on them but you did not indicate a price range I only looked for the lower cost older for the samples.
It seems that I will really need to have it inspected prior to purchasing... I don’t know enough to even really know what to look for exactly, especially the less obvious things, like secret water damage! are there typically mechanics who offer an inspection service who will travel to the unit, or do I ask to take it somewhere? Is that pretty usual or will people be weirded out by the request?
I’m hoping to stay in the under $15k range (the lower the better), and I would like something on the smaller side... I think somewhere in the 24-28ft range would be good. I’m not worried about cosmetics as long as everything is functional and it’s not so ugly that I’d get kicked out of anywhere!
I will need to find out age limits on roadside service providers since I will definitely need to be able to have that! I was considering Good Sam as that seems to be a pretty popular one.
I like the idea of an auto maintenance class... I never even thought of that. Someone else had mentioned an rv driving class she had taken, so I wonder if there’s a general rv driving and maintenance class somewhere too.
I have Good Sam Platinum (Platinum required for MH coverage) for the 1991 Class C. Used GS recently. No problem. Where is the age limit mentioned? Thanks.
On balance, it seems the OP would be better off with a good tow vehicle and a lower cost bumper-pull trailer.
Need some kind of wheels now and after, so why not a good tow vehicle for that, which you can learn to trust before the trip? If your vehicle now can't do that, then part of the budget would be its trade-in value towards the tow vehicle.
The trailer will get there as long as the "wheels don't fall off" so an older unit would be fine for that. Might even have some money left over!
Bordercollie wrote:
I wonder why a woman, with no previous RV owner/operator/maintainer experience, would want to buy an older used RV to take a trip (alone) from VA to WA. It seems to me that driving a car and staying in motels would be safer, easier, and much less expensive taking all actual and potential costs into account. You could take a tent, an air mattress, propane stove and ice chest for occasional camping, where it is safe to tent-camp, in attractive patrolled camp settings if desired.
I wonder why a woman, with no previous RV owner/operator/maintainer experience, would want to buy an older used RV to take a trip (alone) from VA to WA. It seems to me that driving a car and staying in motels would be safer, easier, and much less expensive taking all actual and potential costs into account. You could take a tent, an air mattress, propane stove and ice chest for occasional camping, where it is safe to tent-camp, in attractive patrolled camp settings if desired.
I don't know, maybe she thinks it will be a fun, exciting adventure that will test her skills and abilities, give her a sense of accomplishment and provide priceless memories? Like maybe the same reason most of us get into RVing??
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/rolleyes.gif "rolleyes")
Bordercollie wrote:
I wonder why a woman, with no previous RV owner/operator/maintainer experience, would want to buy an older used RV to take a trip (alone) from VA to WA. It seems to me that driving a car and staying in motels would be safer, easier, and much less expensive taking all actual and potential costs into account. You could take a tent, an air mattress, propane stove and ice chest for occasional camping, where it is safe to tent-camp, in attractive patrolled camp settings if desired.
I wonder why a woman, with no previous RV owner/operator/maintainer experience, would want to buy an older used RV to take a trip (alone) from VA to WA. It seems to me that driving a car and staying in motels would be safer, easier, and much less expensive taking all actual and potential costs into account. You could take a tent, an air mattress, propane stove and ice chest for occasional camping, where it is safe to tent-camp, in attractive patrolled camp settings if desired.
Well, there’s lots of reasons, but this idea originated from my desire to relocate back to WA and thinking about how to get there with all of my pets. I think that having all of my pets in an rv would be less stressful for everybody than sneaking them into motels every night, and it would be more enjoyable to stay at campgrounds than motels. Once the idea took hold, I started to get excited about it and thought, I’m not tied down at the moment and will have all summer to explore, so why not turn it into an adventure? Plus I’ll have an rv for future trips, which would be handy since I have family and friends spread out all over the place.
rjstractor wrote:
I don't know, maybe she thinks it will be a fun, exciting adventure that will test her skills and abilities, give her a sense of accomplishment and provide priceless memories? Like maybe the same reason most of us get into RVing??
I don't know, maybe she thinks it will be a fun, exciting adventure that will test her skills and abilities, give her a sense of accomplishment and provide priceless memories? Like maybe the same reason most of us get into RVing??
That’s my hope anyways!!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/grin.gif "grin")
add solar
replace all rubber
have transmission serviced
have an emergency fund
add to repair fund based on $10 per day or $0.25 cents per mile (which ever is higher)
VA to WA can be done in days . If I already had a reliable vehicle to make this trip to relocate, I would just do that with so many 'pet friendly' motels across the country. If I didn't, I would lease a new vehicle or rent one for the week to make the trip.
You would be able to plan safe places to stay opposed to just landing in an unknown place during a breakdown which could be 'many weeks' depending how long it takes to get an appointment then wait for parts.
A breakdown could cost you 'weeks of time' , waiting for an appointment then waiting for parts. You would have to motel it and have a rental car expense for weeks instead of 5 days.
Once you settle into a new residence, you can then save and plan to take your cross country rv trip. I would then rent one, a new one.
I read some of this thread to my wife. She routinely went on long hiking and camping trips alone before we got married. She also wishes you a happy trip!
2021 Four Winds 26B on Chevy 4500
I recently purchased a Cruise America 25' formal rental and I'm very pleased with it. I know there are some, probably on this forum, who would never consider buying former rental unit, but we have a thread on this forum that lists over 130 formal rental buyers, and I don't any one of them have any regrets in doing so, including me. My problem in buying a unit from a private owner is how well did they take care of it? Low millage is nice but did they service their rv regularly? I would rather have a vehicle that has some age on it as long as it's been serviced regularly than something with low miles that sat a lot. I'm also new to rv'ing and didn't know what I wanted so a basic unit like mine, I felt was a good starting point. Expect to pay around $32,000 for one of CA's rentals. The only major things I've done to mine so far is put new shocks on it and a new steering stabilizer. The tires and batteries were new when I picked mine up. The unit had been repainted and sealed. I also had a inspection service go over everything and had their report in hand before I paid for the unit.
I also like the length of my rv (25 foot) verses a longer unit. When you get a longer unit and load it up with water, fuel etc. you get a lot more weight behind the rear wheels, this makes it harder to control while driving. It's also easier to get around in and park verses something that's longer. Now, if I had more people travelling/camping with me, I may be willing to make the tradeoff in vehicle handling vs inside room, but for someone traveling alone with pets, I don't think the extra room is needed as much.
Expect 9-10 mpg in anything you buy.
I think the more important thing to do is get the unit and use it locally on short trips to get to know it before you take is across country. Long term, it's going to be the house that will give you more problems than the truck part. "You Tube" is your friend in that case. Watch as many of the video's as possible to learn from other's problems and fixes so you know what to look for. Most of the fixes are something that you can fix, rather than spending the big bucks at a repair shop.
Good luck in finding the right rv for you!
* This post was edited 11/21/20 11:45am by Booner *
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C
OP wrote:
I’m hoping to stay in the under $15k range (the lower the better),
I’m hoping to stay in the under $15k range (the lower the better),
Are the rentals in the price range ?
BUT....
If you can spend a little more, consider an older used Dynamax Isata Sport or early production Phoenix Cruiser starting model year 1998. They will have an improved drive train that yields more power and improved fuel economy.
The body of the motor home itself will be a critical consideration, especially at that age. I would surely avoid a slide out in such an old rig to avoid troubles of sorts.
Here is a long read but you will better understand on RV construction pluses and minuses.
Ron
--------------------------------------------------------
New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road.
Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.
When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home.
#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans.
#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for.
a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas.
b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage.
The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work.
There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion is a fine example. If your requirements are to have a large class-C with a massive over-van bed, the best example I seen was this Fleetwood Tioga model offered around 2008-2009. It is unfortunate all class-Cs don't practice seamless cab-over area construction for it would greatly improve the class-C industry.
Increasing in popularity by many manufactures is a shallow bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Triumph is one such example. This shallow bucket design is a reasonable compromise.
If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful.
c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.
d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.
e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap
A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together.
Don't be fooled. Some manufactures add rear wall sectional styling which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. Though not as desirable, they are still an improvement because all the holes for lighting and such are not in the structural wall where water could otherwise get inside the house. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. CLICK HERE to see an example.
f) Walls Are Either Resting On The Floor Or Bolted Against It
Common sense would say the walls should rest on the floor, but some manufactures actually bolt the walls into the side of the floor framing. This means the weight of the roof and walls (and everything hanging on them) rests on mounting bolts. How well will that method hold up when being driven for so many thousands of miles? Checking for this is very difficult. It takes a trained eye for sure. CLICK HERE for an example of it done right with the walls resting on the floor.
Bigger Will Be Weaker
The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration.
The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice.
Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.
There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best
A Caution Concerning Slide Outs
Slide outs are most popular. Everybody loves the extra floor space they provide. There are so few motor homes made without at least one slide out. Unfortunately slide outs can introduce risk of water damage to the main floor around them. Good seals work when the rig is young, but can loose their ability to seal properly as they age. When looking at used rigs with slide outs, closely examine the main floor around each one. If you can lift the carpet adjacent to the slide out and see the wood floor is a gray color, that is a sign that water gets inside. Also, completely open the slide out and step on the main floor adjacent to the slide out. If it feels soft, the plywood or chip board material underneath likely requires replacing.
About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine, and this year Ford replaces that 6.8L-V10 with a larger, more powerful 7.3L-V8. The Ford Transit diesel and the Mercedes Sprinter diesel are popular alternatives to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Transit and Sprinter will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower. I am not sure a Transit can tow anything significant. That needs further research.
If considering a recent “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.
Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.
Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.
You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View.
The Ford Transit Chassis
This chassis is increasing in popularity in the smallest sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. Entering and exiting is more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access.
The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis
This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market.
The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis
Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room.
The Ford E350 & E450
The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons, and with the changes in recent years to the engine and transmission, the good reasons increase. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced.
Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge
Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft (7.3L-V8 starting in 2020)
Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft
Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft
Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds)
Now to supply some data as to why I feel our Phoenix Cruiser stands above most other brands. These two videos drag on, but provide lots of data and also clarify critical things to look for when evaluating any brand.
CLICK HERE on a comparison between a Phoenix Cruiser and an undisclosed brand. I think it is a Nexus. There is a lot of nit-picking but is notable when adding it all up. It is also educational on what makes a better motor home...of coarse at a higher price too.
CLICK HERE for a slideshow on how a Phoenix Cruiser is built. I feel this slide show teaches so much, especially about hidden things that unsuspecting buyers would never think about.
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
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Lots of good info.
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1st - I'm jealous of your trip and wish I had the guts to do it when I was your age. IMO you will never regret it regardless of any mechanical issues you may have along the way. Don't forget that.
2nd - IMO The most likely thing to leave you stranded is tires. Other rotating things may fail (alternator, tensioner, idler, etc) but they are less likely to fail catastrophically without warning and leave you stranded. So in my opinion I would focus on tires. Other rotating thing will most likely give you some warning (noise, slop, etc) as they fail. Listen for that whenever possible. Make sure you have a good spare with you as well as the jack/lug wrench/compressor required to replace if needed in the middle of nowhere. If you have 16.5 tires make sure you understand they are rare these days and most tire shops will not stock spares.
3rd - I've been doing this for a while and I wouldn't hesitate to take a well-maintained older class C across country, any day of the week. Good luck!
Patrick
PatJ wrote:
I've been doing this for a while and I wouldn't hesitate to take a well-maintained older class C across country, any day of the week.
The same here with the same feelings about it. I've been doing this for a while and I wouldn't hesitate to take a well-maintained older class C across country, any day of the week.
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