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Topic: Atwood Hot water heater drain plug
Posted By: dpgllg on 06/19/19 01:58pm

Hello,

My 5th wheel has an Atwood hot water heater that came with a nylon (plastic) drain plug. The location of the plug makes it very difficult to get a wrench or anything on it to remove the plug.

[image]
Original Atwood plug

I replaced it with a Camco brass drain plug with a valve that you can open to drain the tank.

[image]
Camco plug

The Camco plug was a complete waste of time and money. It leaked constantly and when you wanted to drain it came out so slow that it would take a day to drain the tank. I even popped the pressure relief and opened all my faucets with minimal improvement. Removing this drain plug took over an hour due to location and the brass stripped very easily.

Does anyone have a better solution? What do you use? Any special wrenches that fit better?

Thanks for your response!

Dave

2013 2500HD Chevy LTZ 6.6 Diesel Ext Cab Long Bed
2017 Grand Design Reflection 27RL 5th Wheel
Dear Wife, plus two Cocker Spaniels and a Standard Poodle

Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 06/19/19 02:34pm

Better solution

Use the NYLON OEM drain plug

Atwood uses the NYLON for a few reasons
NYLON will not strip out the Aluminum Threads (tank is aluminum and so are all threads)
NYLON has the proper temp/pressure ratings should the T-stat/ECO fail
NYLON seals without having to really crank on it with a wrench

Actually should install finger tight then using a 6 point socket just snug it up
Socket should be 7/8" (some are 15/16")

Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Posted By: BFL13 on 06/19/19 02:40pm

I use the plastic plug, but had a hard time with it too, until I started using this with a 15/16 socket. It needs a slight angle to work it up in there. My 1991 water heater might be different though.

[image]

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on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
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Posted By: CloudDriver on 06/19/19 03:19pm

Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.

[image]

Stored position so door can close.

[image]

2003 Winnebago Minnie 24F - Ford E-450">


Posted By: road-runner on 06/19/19 05:39pm

I access the plug with a 1/2" drive socket and u-joint. Without opening up the entire hole, a lot of the gunk that collects in the bottom of the tank isn't going to drain out. I do have to use sealant on the plug or it drips. Maybe that it's 10 years old and comes out every winter has contributed to that.

2009 Fleetwood Icon

Posted By: dpgllg on 06/19/19 05:55pm

CloudDriver wrote:

Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.

[image]

Stored position so door can close.

[image]


OP here

Will the plastic hold up to the heat of the hot water? What kind of fitting did you use to connect the hose to the hot water tank?

Thanks!

Dave

Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 06/19/19 06:51pm

CloudDriver wrote:

Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.

[image]

Stored position so door can close.

[image]


Doubt that flex tubing is rated for temp/press that COULD occur should t-stat & ECO fail
T&P Relief Valve is set for 210*F/150 psi

PVC/CPVC aren't

Posted By: BluegrassBill on 06/19/19 09:35pm

I use a wobbler extention with 7/8" socket and ratchet, Works great.

Bill & Kathy Francis
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Posted By: D.E.Bishop on 06/19/19 10:19pm

Considering that nylon plugs are rated at 220psi and cpvc at 200psi, and most of us use a regulator set a 55psi or less, pressure really isn't an issue. Operating temps are 220 degrees and 200 degrees respectfully, also not to low to be a problem.

The reinforced clear plastic hose falls pretty much within the specs of cpvc, still not a problem.

I don't know what the heater thermostat is set at but I'd bet no where near 200 degrees, closer to 120 degrees.

In my mind reaching either of the max ratings of a PT valve is time to kiss your water heater and much of your plumbing goodbye.

Camco does recommend 3-5 wraps of teflon tape on the threads of the plugs.

"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
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Posted By: pinesman on 06/20/19 05:20am

I did something very similar as cloud except I used a pre made sink supply line. No problems in a year

Posted By: dpgllg on 06/20/19 07:32am

OP Here,

Can someone tell me what size fitting that screws into the tank? I threw the old Camco one away and need to know what size opening it is.

Thanks!
Dave

Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 06/20/19 12:07pm

dpgllg wrote:

OP Here,

Can someone tell me what size fitting that screws into the tank? I threw the old Camco one away and need to know what size opening it is.

Thanks!
Dave


Atwood water heater aluminum tank drain hole is 1/2"
Atwood NYLON drain plug (2 to the pack) are 1/2" NPT
One to use and one for spare
Couldn't be simpler

Posted By: D.E.Bishop on 06/20/19 12:46pm

Dave;

Actually it is the same size as the brass fitting you replaced the original plug with.

David

Posted By: dougrainer on 06/20/19 01:42pm

I use a standard 6 inch 1/2 drive socket extension with a 1/2 inch drive Rachet. NEVER had a problem getting the plastic plug removed in 40 years. You can slightly lever the Gas valve and tube upwards slightly to get the socket on the nylon drain plug. Doug

Posted By: Bipeflier on 06/20/19 07:25pm

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dpgllg wrote:

OP Here,

Can someone tell me what size fitting that screws into the tank? I threw the old Camco one away and need to know what size opening it is.

Thanks!
Dave


Atwood water heater aluminum tank drain hole is 1/2"


1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread)

2010 Cruiser CF30SK Patriot
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Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 06/20/19 09:54pm

Bipeflier wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:

dpgllg wrote:

OP Here,

Can someone tell me what size fitting that screws into the tank? I threw the old Camco one away and need to know what size opening it is.

Thanks!
Dave


Atwood water heater aluminum tank drain hole is 1/2"


1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread)


If you are going to quote...use the whole quote

"Atwood water heater aluminum tank drain hole is 1/2"
Atwood NYLON drain plug (2 to the pack) are 1/2" NPT
One to use and one for spare
Couldn't be simpler"

Posted By: JimK-NY on 06/21/19 08:04am

I had issues with the plastic plug. I seemed to have leaking every time I drained the tank and then tried to reseat the plug. For a while I got by with a heavy application of teflon tape. I bought new plugs and that helped a lot but I still need at least some teflon tape. I would rather do that than worry about a metal plug stripping threads or freezing in place.

Posted By: dougrainer on 06/21/19 08:21am

use This. Works best. Doug

https://www.zoro.com/rectorseal-thread-s........uw-L64gIVWbnACh2qUweHEAQYAiABEgJRcfD_BwE

Posted By: opnspaces on 06/21/19 09:40am

How I've always done it for last 14 years with same plastic plug. Put a 7/8" socket on the plastic plug. Put the tip of a 6 inch extension in the end of the socket. (it won't snap in but it works) Remove the plug.

I think most people probably way over tighten the nylon drain plug. Reinstall hand tight using just the socket and extension no ratchet handle. Put ratchet in extension and turn maybe 1/16th of a turn, that's it. If you marked the socket at the 12 o'clock position and turned to 1 o'clock you turned it too far. It really doesn't take much to stop the water from leaking under pressure.

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Posted By: mobeewan on 06/21/19 11:19pm

On the Atwood water heater on my small trailer, I removed the plastic drain plug and installed a 2 or 3 inch brass nipple and a half inch npt brass ball valve. I installed the nipple in the ball valve first. I then removed the ball valve handle which was the flat bar type so that I could screw the nipple into the drain hole. I left the handle off and kept it in the silverware drawer in the trailer so I wouldn't lose it and would be able to find it when I needed it to drain the tank.

I got a piece of 5/8 id tubing and a half-inch MPT x 5/8 hose barb and connected them together. I leave them laying inside the water heater door to use to thread into the valve when I drain the water heater.

Posted By: wa8yxm on 06/22/19 05:09am

NOte about brass or steel plugs or nipples.... There is a reason Atwood put in a nylon plug.. Corrosion. Non alike metals corrode.

Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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Posted By: Lynnmor on 06/22/19 07:20am

wa8yxm wrote:

NOte about brass or steel plugs or nipples.... There is a reason Atwood put in a nylon plug.. Corrosion. Non alike metals corrode.


Why then do they use these?




Posted By: dougrainer on 06/22/19 09:00am

Lynnmor wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:

NOte about brass or steel plugs or nipples.... There is a reason Atwood put in a nylon plug.. Corrosion. Non alike metals corrode.


Why then do they use these?


1. They are NOT a common removable part and NOTE the Teflon on the threads
2. NON Nylon plugs GAUL(seize) when dissimiliar metals are secured.
3. The drain plugs are supposed to be removed numerous times during the year to drain and also to winterize. Doug

Posted By: mobeewan on 06/22/19 04:54pm

The reason Atwood uses nylon plugs is because the threads of the tank drain hole are aluminum. If you're not careful what you're doing you can easily damaged the threads when screwing in any metal fittings. Since this is something that has to be removed frequently Atwood provided plastic plugs as well as the ability to get plastic replacement plugs.

As previously noted, the overpressure temperature relief valve is bronze. Also the gas control valve is non aluminum and it screws into a hole in the side of the tank. It also has a copper probe that inserts into the tank. A little bit of Teflon tape is not going to do anything to electrically isolate any of these fittings from the threads in the tank. Although galvanic corrosion can occur between different metals, it occurs to different degrees with different metals when reacting with aluminum, steel being the worst with Brass and bronze at a lower degree. If Atwood was really worried about corrosion between the bronze relief valve and aluminum tank they would have provided something different than a sacrificial inner lining.

Posted By: DFord on 06/25/19 09:55pm

My solution was to extend the drain and adapt it to a hose bib. I used a hose cap to seal it. The pipe is big enough to put a plastic tube through to drain the bottom of the tank and suck out some of the junk that accumulates there. I drain my tank after every trip.
[image]

Don Ford
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Posted By: philh on 06/26/19 10:49am

How bad (fast) is the galvanic corrosion? If I drain the tank through the quick drain after every use, will this slow down the issue? How about removing the plug completely when it goes into storage, will this help?

Another thought occurred to me, does the electric water heater element contribute to the galvanic action? If you were to only heat with propane, would that significantly cut corrosion?

Posted By: wa8yxm on 06/26/19 04:04pm

The electric heater element is electrically isolated from the tank the metal of the threaded part is compatible with the metal of the tank so no problem.

I saw NO evidence of galanic action when I removed my old (12 year or more) tank to replace it at the element but DID at the drain where I'd put a brass plug.

I now have plastic in the new tank. only plastic.

The problems were....elsewhere.

Posted By: down home on 06/26/19 04:29pm

A few years ago we had a plug break. It started as a drizzle. Tried to loosen it and got flooded with hot hot water. Part of the plug was stuck in the threads. Two fellow RVers helped get it out with my pocket knife.
Atwood was at the rally and came by and had a new plug. He used a brass fitting of the right size to clean up the threads. I suppose someone had tightened the plug too tight too long ago. So now I have extra factory nor plastic, nylon, I think plugs and a fitting that can be used to chase the threads. Mine is on the side of a mh so it might be easier access than yours but I have a Camco tool and set of sockets with one that fits and extension etc for ratchet. I use teflon tape on the plug which I hope will make it easier to extract. Minerals can build up in the threads if they can get to them and seize things up good. I need to change my plug before we head out again. They are cheap. Don't use brass plug or any other metal in the aluminum tank and fitting.

Posted By: NRALIFR on 06/26/19 04:50pm

I’ve used a brass plug my WH for years and years, and will continue to do so.

It’s my tank, if I want to use a threaded coprolite in the drain hole I’ll bloody well do it.

[emoticon][emoticon]

Posted By: Lynnmor on 06/26/19 06:35pm

NRALIFR wrote:

I’ve used a brass plug my WH for years and years, and will continue to do so.

It’s my tank, if I want to use a threaded coprolite in the drain hole I’ll bloody well do it.

[emoticon][emoticon]


I'll pass on that offer of coffee. [emoticon]

Posted By: troubledwaters on 06/27/19 05:46am

I've used a brass plug with a couple wraps of teflon tape in mine for 15 years. Same plug, still works fine; remove and drain after every trip. the secret being, if you're aware of the danger of stripping the aluminum, due care can negate that danger. It very little force to tighten the plug sufficiently. Works for me, you're mileage may vary.

Posted By: stevenal on 06/27/19 08:55am

NRALIFR wrote:

It’s my tank, if I want to use a threaded coprolite in the drain hole I’ll bloody well do it.[emoticon][emoticon]


So now you've got me wondering just where that lies on the galvanic series with respect to aluminum. [emoticon]

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Posted By: philh on 06/27/19 09:43am

stevenal wrote:

So now you've got me wondering just where that lies on the galvanic series with respect to aluminum. [emoticon]

X2

Posted By: NRALIFR on 06/27/19 11:41am

Somewhere between Play-Doh and Unobtainium I would guess. [emoticon]

[emoticon][emoticon]

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