Could anyone recommend a jack that the head can easily be rotated 90 degrees. I did a search and it seems like the Husky Brute can be but I didn't find anything in their instructions that said how to do it. Atwood also makes a top motor jack that would probably work, but I don't know anything about their jacks.
Donnoh wrote:
Could anyone recommend a jack that the head can easily be rotated 90 degrees.
Could anyone recommend a jack that the head can easily be rotated 90 degrees.
The head on an UltraFab 3502 used to be rotatable but a redesign now makes that impractical ('though not impossible) on the latest version. I replaced my own LCI tongue jack with it's way too big head with a new UltraFab 3502 which has multiple holes in the mounting base so the entire jack can be rotated 90 degrees, thus improving the chances your tailgate will clear the head. Mine does.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/wEmiy63l.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/cFJ3pu0l.jpg)
A warning - at the mere mention of UltraFab all the pundits will come out of the woodwork claiming how terrible this jack is but having owned 2 myself the fact is they're just as reliable as any on the market, especially the latest version. It's also one of the few that's all metal, including the head.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380
troubledwaters wrote:
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
That's what I did. Just 6" longer made all the difference in the world. I think I could safely tow with the tailgate down now. The new shank for my Equal-I-zer hitch was around $130 I think. Simple solution, but you may have to adjust your wd hitch afterwards.
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE
The dilemma comes with my safety chains, they are barely long enough now even using D-rings to connect them to the receiver. I have a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and the cost of the longer shank is about what the UltraFab would cost.
The easiest solution is to go with the UltraFab. I do like that it has a zerk fitting to grease the screw and is fairly inexpensive with a 2 year warranty.
Donnoh wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions, I never considered a longer shank nor did the UltraFab 3502 show up on my radar.
The dilemma comes with my safety chains, they are barely long enough now even using D-rings to connect them to the receiver. I have a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and the cost of the longer shank is about what the UltraFab would cost.
The easiest solution is to go with the UltraFab. I do like that it has a zerk fitting to grease the screw and is fairly inexpensive with a 2 year warranty.
Thanks for the suggestions, I never considered a longer shank nor did the UltraFab 3502 show up on my radar.
The dilemma comes with my safety chains, they are barely long enough now even using D-rings to connect them to the receiver. I have a Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch and the cost of the longer shank is about what the UltraFab would cost.
The easiest solution is to go with the UltraFab. I do like that it has a zerk fitting to grease the screw and is fairly inexpensive with a 2 year warranty.
You can buy the appropriate strength chain and connectors to lengthen your existing safety chain. I did that for a trailer and the cost was about $15.
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 Laramie
Arctic Fox 25Y
Donnoh wrote:
I have a new Flagstaff Micro Lite 21 FBRS that came with a FIC 3500 electric tongue jack. The problem with it is that I can't lower the tailgate all the way without it hitting the jack cover. I looked on-line to see if the head could be rotated 90 degrees but didn't find anything.
Could anyone recommend a jack that the head can easily be rotated 90 degrees. I did a search and it seems like the Husky Brute can be but I didn't find anything in their instructions that said how to do it. Atwood also makes a top motor jack that would probably work, but I don't know anything about their jacks.
This is a common question, and there are many threads on this. The common theme seems to be that the Barker owners are very attached to their jacks, almost all of them rave about the fantastic customer service. My take on that is that it can't be all that reliable if customer service is needed so much. That said, there are two basic designs. The front side mounted motor ie: Barker, Ultrafab etc. And the top mounted motor ie: Atwood. Most of the front side mounted motors offer a built in level on the top, which at least on some of them doubles as the plug for the backup hand crank. The front side mounts have many drawbacks. On many TTs using the backup hand crank will require either removing the propane tanks, or turning the crank 1/2 turn, removing it, turning it 180 degrees, reinserting it and repeat this process. Very inconvenient. My concern here is not the need to use the handcrank due to a jack failure so much as a dead battery Due to the motor being mounted on the front side it almost always will result in interference with the tailgate. A common solution is to rotate the jack so that the motor is on the side. But then the hitch light points in the wrong direction. The front side mounts also have several penetrations (holes) in the housing for the switches and backup crank that is a common source of water intrusion into the motor. This is so common that many have posted here that Barker has supplied them with a free cover for the jack. (this is likely the reason for the glowing customer service reports) This style of jack really needs to be covered, to eliminate the risk of water intrusion. Owners report that they can operate the jack without removing the cover by feeling the switch through it. But then the light is useless. Owners report that they don't use the light anyway. Probably because most of them have rotated the jack for tailgate clearance, so it points in the wrong direction. I would have a concern that the light switch would get turned on accidently and since it was under the cover go unnoticed and drain the battery. Then the hand crank would need to be used. See previous concern. If your TT has a front slide, then you may have to use a front side mounted motor as they are a little shorter and less likely to interfere with the slide. The top mounted motor, (Atwood) has no pentrations in the housing for water intrusion. So it doesn't need covering. The backup crank inserts in the front, so there is no propane tank interference. And the motor will not interfere with the tailgate. So the jack can point the light at the hitch where it is needed. The only complaints some have is they don't like the sound of the motor as much as some of the others. That's got to be a personal thing, as mine sounds like music everytime I press the button and it does it's work without me breaking a sweat. And I cannot attest to Atwoods customer service as in 18 years of use, I haven't needed any. I also haven't read about it here either. At any rate, look the features of both styles over closely and decide which one makes sense for you. Spend the money. Then enjoy it. I hope this helps.
I have a new Flagstaff Micro Lite 21 FBRS that came with a FIC 3500 electric tongue jack. The problem with it is that I can't lower the tailgate all the way without it hitting the jack cover. I looked on-line to see if the head could be rotated 90 degrees but didn't find anything.
Could anyone recommend a jack that the head can easily be rotated 90 degrees. I did a search and it seems like the Husky Brute can be but I didn't find anything in their instructions that said how to do it. Atwood also makes a top motor jack that would probably work, but I don't know anything about their jacks.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000
"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"
Maybe the reliability of the Atwood jacks is why you don't see many posts about them!
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
We do keep a cloth or vinyl cover on it though to keep the sun off the plastic cover. Our previous trailers cover became somewhat brittle from the sun but never broke except for a small flange.
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine
Terry & Shay
Coachman Apex 288BH.
2013 F150 XLT Off Road
5.0, 3.73
Lazy Campers
Terryallan wrote:
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
That would drive me nuts. We often do quick overnites enroute to our destinations... We NEED to be able to get some things out of the bed without unhitching. We have a over the bed rack for our quads that prevents just reaching over the sides.I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
But if it works for you... Great.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch
Terryallan wrote:
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
Maybe for you but not for me ... my Silvy wears a tonneau cover and I'm always wanting to get into it's cargo area for something so having the trailer tongue jack prevent the tailgate from lowering completely was a total PITA.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/mad.gif "mad")
The UltraFab fixed that for me.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP
Huntindog wrote:
But if it works for you... Great.
Terryallan wrote:
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
That would drive me nuts. We often do quick overnites enroute to our destinations... We NEED to be able to get some things out of the bed without unhitching. We have a over the bed rack for our quads that prevents just reaching over the sides.I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
But if it works for you... Great.
Honestly. Every camper we have ever had prevented the tailgate from opening all the way. And We have had aprox 8. So it is something we have learned to work around. I'm NOT getting an extended shank, as that could cause sway. I like my TT closer to the TV axle. Much better control.
What ever I might need when hooked up. I keep either in the TT outside storage, (leveling blocks, chairs, chocks, cords.....) or inside the TT itself. (Food, water, grill, campstove...) The only thing we carry in the truck bed is bikes, air compressor, and fire wood So it is not a problem for us.
The cheap FIC on our 2017 Rockwood is still going strong on its 3rd season. I figured Id be replacing it in the first year or two seeing they can be found for less than $100. Its attached to an even cheaper coupler assembly that can be had for $12 with no adjustable pawl, so you have to typically beat on it with a hammer to get it to release lol.
SoundGuy wrote:
Maybe for you but not for me ... my Silvy wears a tonneau cover and I'm always wanting to get into it's cargo area for something so having the trailer tongue jack prevent the tailgate from lowering completely was a total PITA. The UltraFab fixed that for me.
Terryallan wrote:
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
Maybe for you but not for me ... my Silvy wears a tonneau cover and I'm always wanting to get into it's cargo area for something so having the trailer tongue jack prevent the tailgate from lowering completely was a total PITA.
The UltraFab fixed that for me. Yeah. Mine has a tonneau cover as well. We really like it. Only time we can't close it, is when I carry our bikes. But we only take them to the beach. I guess in the last 35 or so years. We just learned how to work around it.
troubledwaters wrote:
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
It's just Mrs. SpeakEasy and me now (empty-nesters). But we can choose from among 7 grandchildren to drag along with us!
2014 F-150 Super Crew Short Bed 3.5L Ecoboost
2014 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB
SpeakEasy wrote:
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
troubledwaters wrote:
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
A valid concern, but I concur with the idea, especially after looking at the trailer in question. I did it and am very happy with the outcome. It's awesome to be able to lay the tailgate down and open the tonneau cover for unfettered access to the bed. It would be very troublesome otherwise. My better half has already hurt herself trying to hold the tailgate partially open while reaching in the bed.
At the very worst I spent $150 to see if I can open my tailgate with the UltraFab and if not, I bought from Amazon and they'll get it back. At any rate the UltraFab is probably twice as good as the generic FIC noise maker that came with the trailer.
Thanks for all of the suggestions and comments.
Donnoh wrote:
Just to put this topic to rest, I decided to purchase the UltraFab jack and try it out.
At the very worst I spent $150 to see if I can open my tailgate with the UltraFab and if not, I bought from Amazon and they'll get it back.
Just to put this topic to rest, I decided to purchase the UltraFab jack and try it out.
At the very worst I spent $150 to see if I can open my tailgate with the UltraFab and if not, I bought from Amazon and they'll get it back.
Every truck / trailer combination is different so no one can guarantee that the UltraFab will definitely solve your issue BUT the ability to turn it 90 degrees and the fact the head is about the smallest on any tongue jack sold certainly improve your chances that it will.
SpeakEasy wrote:
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
Not if you are using WD.troubledwaters wrote:
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
Read what Ron Gratz had to say back in 2010:
Ron Gratz
Huntindog wrote:
Read what Ron Gratz had to say back in 2010:
Ron Gratz
SpeakEasy wrote:
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
Not if you are using WD.troubledwaters wrote:
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
Read what Ron Gratz had to say back in 2010:
Ron Gratz
OK. I checked out what Ron Gratz had to say. I'll admit that I didn't understand much of it. I'm not even a "first year engineering student" let alone a second-year one.
However. Look at what I said. I said the extender would "have an impact." I believe that's true, even after having read through Gratz's material. I'm not sure what the impact would be - increase or decrease or by how much. But I still maintain it is something to consider if you're going to extend your shank. If I were going that route I'd work on understanding the physics of what I was doing.
-Speak
SpeakEasy wrote:
OK. I checked out what Ron Gratz had to say. I'll admit that I didn't understand much of it. I'm not even a "first year engineering student" let alone a second-year one.
However. Look at what I said. I said the extender would "have an impact." I believe that's true, even after having read through Gratz's material. I'm not sure what the impact would be - increase or decrease or by how much. But I still maintain it is something to consider if you're going to extend your shank. If I were going that route I'd work on understanding the physics of what I was doing.
-Speak
Huntindog wrote:
Read what Ron Gratz had to say back in 2010:
Ron Gratz
SpeakEasy wrote:
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
Not if you are using WD.troubledwaters wrote:
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
You can get a longer shank for your ball mount, whichever way is cheaper.
Like most things, this idea has "legs." If you extend your shank it will have an impact on your towing capacity. If you're anywhere near your limits now, you need to check into this before you do it.
-Speak
Read what Ron Gratz had to say back in 2010:
Ron Gratz
OK. I checked out what Ron Gratz had to say. I'll admit that I didn't understand much of it. I'm not even a "first year engineering student" let alone a second-year one.
However. Look at what I said. I said the extender would "have an impact." I believe that's true, even after having read through Gratz's material. I'm not sure what the impact would be - increase or decrease or by how much. But I still maintain it is something to consider if you're going to extend your shank. If I were going that route I'd work on understanding the physics of what I was doing.
-Speak
Ron tells you what the impact will be--less force on the receiver.
Ron Gratz wrote:
The second year engineering student would conclude using the extension, with WD, results in less "stress on the hitch attachment points and truck frame".
The second year engineering student would conclude using the extension, with WD, results in less "stress on the hitch attachment points and truck frame".
He's a mechanical engineer, and he shows his work, so I'll take his word for it.
Was told by etrailer and others that I could not rotate my lippert power head
They were wrong
Was told to rotate using the three mounting bolts.
Wrong again
You only need to remove screws from head and lift it off
Now you may already have another set of holes 90degrees on jack tube
You may need to tap ( thread ) them if no holes drill 2 and tap 2 new holes
Not that hard
Hope this helps someone out there
Terryallan wrote:
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
Same here. It just isn't a big enough deal for me to muck around with stuff.
I don't worry about it. Mine will hit the jack no matter how it is turned. I just make sure every thing is in the truck before I hookup. Easy Peasy
2019 F350 towing a Nash 22H