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hone eagle wrote:
Well GM is about to go aluminum ,hope they fix all the mistakes Ford made and do it right.
Well GM is about to go aluminum ,hope they fix all the mistakes Ford made and do it right.
With a metal floor in the bed! Now we have the issue of dis-similar metals.
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021
Me Again wrote:
With a metal floor in the bed! Now we have the issue of dis-similar metals.
hone eagle wrote:
Well GM is about to go aluminum ,hope they fix all the mistakes Ford made and do it right.
Well GM is about to go aluminum ,hope they fix all the mistakes Ford made and do it right.
With a metal floor in the bed! Now we have the issue of dis-similar metals.
The marine industry solved this in the '80s,most ultra luxury yachts were steel hulls and alloy superstructure, and in a salt water environment .
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
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valhalla360 wrote:
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Yes, I've always had a sheet of plywood in my truck bed. Sometimes in the winter I put in a piece of plate steel also.
The new F450 truck next year will have a flat bed on it though because they've jacked the standard pick up beds too high.
Bill
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 (200x149) (2) (130x97) (110x82).jpg)
valhalla360 wrote:
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
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valhalla360 wrote:
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Dents don't really bother me. The steel bed in my Ram has some and it seems to dent pretty easily. But who cares? It's a truck bed.
Holes would bother me. That seems to be the bigger problem with the aluminum bed and body, whether it's from dropping something in the bed or tearing off your antenna.
2015 Cummins Ram 4wd CC/SB
Hammerboy wrote:
Well let's talk about it anyway, Seen a couple videos on YouTube from Big Truck Big RV I believe where they did in experiment tearing the metal on a aluminum Ford and a steel Chevy I believe. I was amazed how easy the aluminum tor in comparison to the steel. Ford owners, what has been your experience with dents and such?
Dan
Well let's talk about it anyway, Seen a couple videos on YouTube from Big Truck Big RV I believe where they did in experiment tearing the metal on a aluminum Ford and a steel Chevy I believe. I was amazed how easy the aluminum tor in comparison to the steel. Ford owners, what has been your experience with dents and such?
Dan
The Aluminum on my 2018 has been a non issue so far. Waxed it just like I would any other vehicle.
The aluminum hood on my 2002 Explorer has also been a non issue. I suppose if the hood has survived 16 years of service without issues, the body on my new Super Duty doesn't keep me up nights. No dents so I can't speak to that thus far.
If the Aluminum is hit hard enough to be torn, the damage will be significant to the steel body as well, so I guess I don't really care about that. My aim is to avoid accidents and body work, no matter what alloy the metal is made of.
wilber1 wrote:
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
valhalla360 wrote:
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
I understood that pure metals are rarely used in manufacturing, as alloys combine the strengths of the metals to create more desirable characteristics. Of course chosen to exploit the strengths, and mitigate the weaknesses of the metals present.
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Charlie D. wrote:
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
The aluminum body caught on fire? Usually it is something electrical or fuel related that starts a fire.
I am being facetious. I am guessing the vehicle was a total loss much like steel bodied vehicles that burn up.
mich800 wrote:
The aluminum body caught on fire? Usually it is something electrical or fuel related that starts a fire.
I am being facetious. I am guessing the vehicle was a total loss much like steel bodied vehicles that burn up.
Charlie D. wrote:
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
The aluminum body caught on fire? Usually it is something electrical or fuel related that starts a fire.
I am being facetious. I am guessing the vehicle was a total loss much like steel bodied vehicles that burn up.
Or something like a water pump
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/grin.gif "grin")
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Unless you are saying an aluminum skinned vehicle will burn quicker and more often than a steel skinned one.
Charlie D. wrote:
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
Erroll, Mary
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Groover wrote:
I have a 40 year old aluminum canoe in my barn right now with no visible corrosion, Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn
I have a 40 year old aluminum canoe in my barn right now with no visible corrosion, Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn
Has to be a Grumman? I have a 1978 17' that's been outside it's whole life and other than light surface oxidation that cleans right up if I was not lazy, its perfect. Grumman knew what they were doing.
How do I get aluminum to light? I could save lots of firewood by burning my beer cans.
Q: Whats brown and sticky???
A: A Stick....
Jebby14 wrote:
I love mine. no issues. bed liner sprayed in. I actually use it as a truck. Love that chevy attacked ford so hard when the current gen came in 2015 and the new Silverado is a knock off f150. Blue oval all the way.
I love mine. no issues. bed liner sprayed in. I actually use it as a truck. Love that chevy attacked ford so hard when the current gen came in 2015 and the new Silverado is a knock off f150. Blue oval all the way.
There it is.......ROFLMA.......
Knew it was just a matter of time lol.
Ford and Chevy have been attacking each other in the marketing dept for what? 50 years? Owning both currently, I can assure you a new Silverado is not even close to a knock off F150, that's an hilarious claim and made my morning. These threads that turn into brand wars are the most entertaining reading you'll ever find on a board.
Groover wrote:
...Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn but anybody in the truck at that point probably wasn't going to survive anyway.
What??? Aluminum is not combustible, it doesn't burn.
...Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn but anybody in the truck at that point probably wasn't going to survive anyway.
nickthehunter wrote:
Groover wrote:
...Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn but anybody in the truck at that point probably wasn't going to survive anyway.
What??? Aluminum is not combustible, it doesn't burn....Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn but anybody in the truck at that point probably wasn't going to survive anyway.
google space shuttle solid rocket fuel.
IdaD wrote:
Dents don't really bother me. The steel bed in my Ram has some and it seems to dent pretty easily. But who cares? It's a truck bed.
Holes would bother me. That seems to be the bigger problem with the aluminum bed and body, whether it's from dropping something in the bed or tearing off your antenna.
valhalla360 wrote:
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Even if it dents easier, at least it won't rust away.
Yeah, if you use the bed really hard that's not great but put a bed liner or a sheet of 1/2" plywood in the bottom and throwing cement blocks in the back is not an issue.
Dents don't really bother me. The steel bed in my Ram has some and it seems to dent pretty easily. But who cares? It's a truck bed.
Holes would bother me. That seems to be the bigger problem with the aluminum bed and body, whether it's from dropping something in the bed or tearing off your antenna.
If you are punching holes, a bed liner or piece of plywood takes care of it but in snowy areas where they use salt, virtually every steel body truck 10yrs old has rust problems that leave holes. Sold my last truck that ran great because the body was rusting away.
As for aluminum being combustible I don't know but can confirm that an aluminum can in a camp fire will melt and disappear.
hone eagle wrote:
google space shuttle solid rocket fuel.
While technically aluminum is combustible, when in the form of an F150 body it's pretty safe to say it is not going to burn (in the common ordinary use of the term burn).
nickthehunter wrote:
Groover wrote:
...Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn but anybody in the truck at that point probably wasn't going to survive anyway.
What??? Aluminum is not combustible, it doesn't burn....Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn but anybody in the truck at that point probably wasn't going to survive anyway.
google space shuttle solid rocket fuel.
wilber1 wrote:
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
Do you really think they haven't thought of this? The F150 is thier flagship model that brings in the bulk of company profits. They aren't going to risk having to replace several million truck beds if they all fail in 5yrs. Aluminum is not a new material.
Also, "pure" aluminum is virtually unknown for most uses. Just about any time you hear aluminum it's an alloy. Corrosion resistance is one of the key advantages of the switch, right after weight savings.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
There it is.......ROFLMA.......
Knew it was just a matter of time lol.
Ford and Chevy have been attacking each other in the marketing dept for what? 50 years? Owning both currently, I can assure you a new Silverado is not even close to a knock off F150, that's an hilarious claim and made my morning. These threads that turn into brand wars are the most entertaining reading you'll ever find on a board.
Jebby14 wrote:
I love mine. no issues. bed liner sprayed in. I actually use it as a truck. Love that chevy attacked ford so hard when the current gen came in 2015 and the new Silverado is a knock off f150. Blue oval all the way.
I love mine. no issues. bed liner sprayed in. I actually use it as a truck. Love that chevy attacked ford so hard when the current gen came in 2015 and the new Silverado is a knock off f150. Blue oval all the way.
There it is.......ROFLMA.......
Knew it was just a matter of time lol.
Ford and Chevy have been attacking each other in the marketing dept for what? 50 years? Owning both currently, I can assure you a new Silverado is not even close to a knock off F150, that's an hilarious claim and made my morning. These threads that turn into brand wars are the most entertaining reading you'll ever find on a board.
You need to take a closer look at the marketing. GM is notorious for highlighting a competitiors feature and claiming it is not needed. The others tend to highlight what they have the others don’t or a better version. This is in the past decade or so not the like a rock type campaigns where they just talk up their own brand.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
Has to be a Grumman? I have a 1978 17' that's been outside it's whole life and other than light surface oxidation that cleans right up if I was not lazy, its perfect. Grumman knew what they were doing.
How do I get aluminum to light? I could save lots of firewood by burning my beer cans.
Lund aluminum fishing boats seem to hold up extremely well but that's fresh water.
Groover wrote:
I have a 40 year old aluminum canoe in my barn right now with no visible corrosion, Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn
I have a 40 year old aluminum canoe in my barn right now with no visible corrosion, Yes, aluminum is more likely to burn
Has to be a Grumman? I have a 1978 17' that's been outside it's whole life and other than light surface oxidation that cleans right up if I was not lazy, its perfect. Grumman knew what they were doing.
How do I get aluminum to light? I could save lots of firewood by burning my beer cans.
Lynnmor wrote:
I just wonder how the aluminum body is holding up in the extreme salt belt. Anyone that has an aluminum snowmobile trailer can tell you that it is not corrosion proof.
I just wonder how the aluminum body is holding up in the extreme salt belt. Anyone that has an aluminum snowmobile trailer can tell you that it is not corrosion proof.
I live just above the American "salt belt", all of the aluminum body F150's I see have zero rust on them to date that's visible and i'm talking work trucks that get worked hard and beaten too - the undercarriage I.E frame, axles etc.. all rust the same amount as the old trucks did but the bodies are nice.
I can't say the same for the other big two though as I see 2-4 year old GM twins and a ton of Ram's with rust coming through the fenders and rockers - saw a Ram yesterday with pretty much no rockers left and it was a post facelift truck (2014/15 I believe) but that one had mud tires on it and I feel like it probably had a hard life.
My old 2011 F150 and my fathers old 2010 Tundra are both still in the family and both has yearly Rust check coatings since new and both trucks are perfectly rust free body wise, the Tundra showing much more rust on the frame and suspension though.
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colliehauler wrote:
Lund aluminum fishing boats seem to hold up extremely well but that's fresh water.
Lund aluminum fishing boats seem to hold up extremely well but that's fresh water.
Large ocean cruising boats, aluminum is considered a top quality hull material. So submerged in salt water 24-7, they hold up just fine.
valhalla360 wrote:
Large ocean cruising boats, aluminum is considered a top quality hull material. So submerged in salt water 24-7, they hold up just fine.
colliehauler wrote:
Lund aluminum fishing boats seem to hold up extremely well but that's fresh water.
Lund aluminum fishing boats seem to hold up extremely well but that's fresh water.
Large ocean cruising boats, aluminum is considered a top quality hull material. So submerged in salt water 24-7, they hold up just fine.
Quite a few are left unpainted as well.
Lynnmor wrote:
I just wonder how the aluminum body is holding up in the extreme salt belt. Anyone that has an aluminum snowmobile trailer can tell you that it is not corrosion proof.
I just wonder how the aluminum body is holding up in the extreme salt belt. Anyone that has an aluminum snowmobile trailer can tell you that it is not corrosion proof.
But it's ALOT more corrosion resistant than bare steel.
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They all have their weaknesses and strengths...just depends on where it is applied in use...and...protection measures taken
Am not a fan of aluminum pickup truck beds...but that is just me...even if they did oxidize the whole thing on all surfaces...still NOT a good one for me...
Anyone own a 16oz, claw hammer head made out of aluminum? There are very good applications, but aluminum is NOT a good claw hammer head material for a reason...
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...
So...yes it will burn...
BenK wrote:
The only metals that do NOT corrode are the noble and a few non-noble...like titanium
They all have their weaknesses and strengths...just depends on where it is applied in use...and...protection measures taken
Am not a fan of aluminum pickup truck beds...but that is just me...even if they did oxidize the whole thing on all surfaces...still NOT a good one for me...
Anyone own a 16oz, claw hammer head made out of aluminum? There are very good applications, but aluminum is NOT a good claw hammer head material for a reason...
The only metals that do NOT corrode are the noble and a few non-noble...like titanium
They all have their weaknesses and strengths...just depends on where it is applied in use...and...protection measures taken
Am not a fan of aluminum pickup truck beds...but that is just me...even if they did oxidize the whole thing on all surfaces...still NOT a good one for me...
Anyone own a 16oz, claw hammer head made out of aluminum? There are very good applications, but aluminum is NOT a good claw hammer head material for a reason...
No aluminum hammer, but I do have a brass hammer, great to use for certain applications. Brass is far more dense than aluminum so it makes a better hammer, but I believe is softer than aluminum.
Personally, I'm not a contractor so I won't be putting much in the bed. And if I load landscaping bricks, I won't be dropping them from 5' above the cab, I'm smarter than that. Besides all that, I've got a low boy trailer that is 4' longer than my bed, that is quite frankly much easier to use for loading/unloading just about anything I want to carry around. The 4 wheeler, riding mower, dirt, lumber, etc. is all much easier and safer to load on it.
BenK wrote:
Alunimum is one of the oxidizers in solid rocket fuel...
So...yes it will burn...
Alunimum is one of the oxidizers in solid rocket fuel...
So...yes it will burn...
Not to put too fine a point on it but dont oxidizers only support burning?
hone eagle wrote:
Not to put too fine a point on it but dont oxidizers only support burning?
The aluminum they use in solid rocket fuel is not solid sheets of aluminum; that makes a huge difference in whether or not it will burn or support combustion. Alas the topic is about aluminum sheets.
BenK wrote:
Alunimum is one of the oxidizers in solid rocket fuel...
So...yes it will burn...
Alunimum is one of the oxidizers in solid rocket fuel...
So...yes it will burn...
Not to put too fine a point on it but dont oxidizers only support burning?
The real issue is how to attach components/items to the aluminum hull as aluminum fasteners have less that 1/2 the strength of steel fasteners so that's not an option. Properly done epoxy/high tech cured bonds is an option but must be done with enough square inches of true contact surface to surface mating and be totally clean before gluing. Costly and the jury is still out on the long term hot sun and ambient chemicals effect on such affordable bonding methods. If a method used is not affordable in the mass selling marketplace, it simply won't be used as the true construction method of choice.
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valhalla360 wrote:
Do you really think they haven't thought of this? The F150 is thier flagship model that brings in the bulk of company profits. They aren't going to risk having to replace several million truck beds if they all fail in 5yrs. Aluminum is not a new material.
Also, "pure" aluminum is virtually unknown for most uses. Just about any time you hear aluminum it's an alloy. Corrosion resistance is one of the key advantages of the switch, right after weight savings.
wilber1 wrote:
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
Pure aluminum is quite corrosion resistant but alloys aren't. Alloy manufacturers often put a thin layer of pure aluminum on top of the alloy for corrosion resistance, called Alclad. Even so, float planes in salt water are a continuous battle against corrosion. Still, more manufacturers will be using more aluminum. Land Rover has been using it for bodies since the forties, believe it or not because there was a steel shortage in post war Britain and they have been using aluminum ever since.
Do you really think they haven't thought of this? The F150 is thier flagship model that brings in the bulk of company profits. They aren't going to risk having to replace several million truck beds if they all fail in 5yrs. Aluminum is not a new material.
Also, "pure" aluminum is virtually unknown for most uses. Just about any time you hear aluminum it's an alloy. Corrosion resistance is one of the key advantages of the switch, right after weight savings.
I wasn't advocating not using aluminum in vehicle bodies, Ford isn't alone in using aluminum, and more will follow. I mentioned, Land Rover has been using them from the get go and newer Jaguars are aluminum bodied. I was just pointing out that aluminum has its own corrosion issues.
Fastening insulators and in some areas replacable sacrificial anodes. You'll find them on cast aluminum outboard motors, boat propellershafts, attached to the bottom of large metal motorized watercraft, etc, and guess where else? Right in your RV's aluminum water heater that needs replacing when well sacrificed! Any more questions???
hone eagle wrote:
So how are those big yachts built with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures?
So how are those big yachts built with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures?
1) The joint between materials is not submerged.
2) They put an isolating material between (on an aluminum mast, something as simple as a layer of plastic from a milk jug between the mast and the stainless steel winch base does the trick.)
This isn't a new or unknown issue. I'm sure the truck makers have this figured out. Only thing you might worry about is a DIY guy who pulls the bed and when he puts it back, he doesn't do it right...of course, the vast majority of trucks never have the bed pulled.
valhalla360 wrote:
1) The joint between materials is not submerged.
2) They put an isolating material between (on an aluminum mast, something as simple as a layer of plastic from a milk jug between the mast and the stainless steel winch base does the trick.)
This isn't a new or unknown issue. I'm sure the truck makers have this figured out. Only thing you might worry about is a DIY guy who pulls the bed and when he puts it back, he doesn't do it right...of course, the vast majority of trucks never have the bed pulled.
hone eagle wrote:
So how are those big yachts built with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures?
So how are those big yachts built with steel hulls and aluminum superstructures?
1) The joint between materials is not submerged.
2) They put an isolating material between (on an aluminum mast, something as simple as a layer of plastic from a milk jug between the mast and the stainless steel winch base does the trick.)
This isn't a new or unknown issue. I'm sure the truck makers have this figured out. Only thing you might worry about is a DIY guy who pulls the bed and when he puts it back, he doesn't do it right...of course, the vast majority of trucks never have the bed pulled.
i knew that they had if figured out 50 years ago I just didn't know the details,I was never worried about all or partial aluminum trucks .
what I did run across was the problem metal boat have in some marinas, the boat next to you not bonded and the marina itself with DC or AC voltage leaks
egads
dont park your salt covered ford in the same puddle as my chevy ,they will have holes by nightfall
Charlie D. wrote:
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
The picture that I was unable to post was an aluminum body F-150 that had caught on fire. It is from the Spirit Lake FD of North Dakota. It can be found on their Facebook page; Spiritlakefire50. Scroll down to March 21, 2017. Perhaps one of you can post it.
![[image]](https://scontent-dfw5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18664683_1172683312842175_2347474350342704263_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&oh=d2d7c79e3a61eb62b2ef2226bc6d0393&oe=5B7CE51E)
My attempt
Not a monster at all, just revealing the facts. Salt corrodes most common metals and lots of other materials used as affordability of purchasing a medium to high production product is ultra important. Boats are low volume product at best or may be one of a kind and are very expensive to make and thus very expensive to purchase. Service lifetime of a reasonably constructed boat is in many decades while a vehicle is normally 1-2 decades depending on where it is/driven and what care and maintenance it's had.
Many may not remember or have not known due to age Stainless Steel production car bodies being made and sold. DeLorean DMC-12, made from 1981-1983 (8,583 made) was a more recent one and it was not primed nor painted and of course never rusted. Yes, the engines and driveline still wore out and the interior finally rotted or shredded and the plastic and rubber parts finally rotted or fell off but the body sheet stainless just needed a good washing and still shined like new brushed stainless and had no corrosion at nearly 40 years old.
All you needed was a lot of money to buy one!
Aluminum is not stainless steel and doesn't salt or even a dissimilar metal touching it or a slight electrical current passing thru it exposed to the elements but it is light in weight and a lot cheaper than stainless steel. A compromise!
Stainless steel doesn't burn either!!!
Look up "galvanic action", "how batteries work", "chemistry of a battery", "water conductivity", "water resistance", ETC and follow the footnote reference links on all of those sites
Just because a designer/engineer did the work, does it mean they got it right.
Take my GMT400 1996 Suburban (all GMT400's) with rear AC. They designed it with aluminum tubing that mated via flare joints to copper tubing.
Sounds like nothing major, right?
Well it was found that those flare joints could NOT be undone without breaking one or both tubes...because of galvanic action welded themselves together
There are tons of designs out there where they screwed up by not understanding galvanic action
Another is DeathCool (DexCool or OATs) coolant. Just by the way OATs works..left acid in the coolant. It is to strip all metal to allow the organics to plate a protective coating.
But...stripping off metal will then have metal floating around in the coolant...and not all the same metal, but a mixture of whatever to form a battery in the cooling system (galvanic action)
Just look up the diagnostic HOW2's on OATs and HOATs based coolant systems. Some will have a sensitive DOM (digital ohm meter) and if the votage is above a certain level...cleanse and change out the OATs/HOATs coolant...the why is that with the dissimilar metals being connected via conductive coolant...makes a battery that will erode the cooling system...even rubber hoses...
![[image]](https://www.natchezdemocrat.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Truck-fire-622x352.jpg)
* This post was edited 06/04/18 02:06pm by Samsonsworld *
womps wrote:
This picture was posted before here or on another forum. It was determined the picture is photoshopped. Yes aluminum melts. But look at the picture closely, front door melted and 3 inches away not even the paint is blistered on the front fender. The rubber at the end of the running board is totally intact. Rubber is going to melt long before aluminum.
This picture was posted before here or on another forum. It was determined the picture is photoshopped. Yes aluminum melts. But look at the picture closely, front door melted and 3 inches away not even the paint is blistered on the front fender. The rubber at the end of the running board is totally intact. Rubber is going to melt long before aluminum.
i thought it looked a bit off, backgrounds wrong ,colours ,ya photoshopy
travelnutz wrote:
Charlie D.Not a monster at all, just revealing the facts. Stainless steel doesn't burn either!!!
Charlie D.Not a monster at all, just revealing the facts. Stainless steel doesn't burn either!!!
I understand that and trying to bring a smile on faces. Learned a lot from the posts but with my age and memory won't remember most of it. But, that O.K.. That's what exchanges of information is about.
Here is a response from the the FD yesterday: "This pic was posted for informational purposes to show firefighters how the aluminum alloy body reacts in fire. As for how the fire started it is unknown but looking at burn pattern of pics fire traveled from rear passenger area in the pick up box and moved forward toward the driver side.
Here is another response from yesterday: "Aluminum melts at a lower temp then steel approx 1221 f the alloy bumps it’s up to 1400 and steel melts at around 2600 degrees it’s just meant as information for firefighters for safety reasons and it will take a while for the vehicle to get to complete melting point like that....Has no impact on their safety ratings at all."
One poster posted this:
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2017-01-1355/.
I am not going to pay $28. to read the report but to the right of the $28.00 is the link to preview the document. Not much information.
Charlie D. wrote:
I have looked at some of the responses on this fire departments Facebook page with many claiming it had been photo shopped. Maybe is was, I don't know. A friend posted it on my Facebook page. It appears that it has surfaced widely within the last few days because many of the Facebook responses are within a few days.
Here is a response from the the FD yesterday: "This pic was posted for informational purposes to show firefighters how the aluminum alloy body reacts in fire. As for how the fire started it is unknown but looking at burn pattern of pics fire traveled from rear passenger area in the pick up box and moved forward toward the driver side.
Here is another response from yesterday: "Aluminum melts at a lower temp then steel approx 1221 f the alloy bumps it’s up to 1400 and steel melts at around 2600 degrees it’s just meant as information for firefighters for safety reasons and it will take a while for the vehicle to get to complete melting point like that....Has no impact on their safety ratings at all."
One poster posted this:
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2017-01-1355/.
I am not going to pay $28. to read the report but to the right of the $28.00 is the link to preview the document. Not much information.
I have looked at some of the responses on this fire departments Facebook page with many claiming it had been photo shopped. Maybe is was, I don't know. A friend posted it on my Facebook page. It appears that it has surfaced widely within the last few days because many of the Facebook responses are within a few days.
Here is a response from the the FD yesterday: "This pic was posted for informational purposes to show firefighters how the aluminum alloy body reacts in fire. As for how the fire started it is unknown but looking at burn pattern of pics fire traveled from rear passenger area in the pick up box and moved forward toward the driver side.
Here is another response from yesterday: "Aluminum melts at a lower temp then steel approx 1221 f the alloy bumps it’s up to 1400 and steel melts at around 2600 degrees it’s just meant as information for firefighters for safety reasons and it will take a while for the vehicle to get to complete melting point like that....Has no impact on their safety ratings at all."
One poster posted this:
https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2017-01-1355/.
I am not going to pay $28. to read the report but to the right of the $28.00 is the link to preview the document. Not much information.
It is a photoshop job. Car fires burn very hot, over 1,500 degrees to melt the aluminum. The rubber on the front tires wouldn't be holding air if there was 1,500 degree fire less than 12" away.
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/when-aluminum-truck-catches-fire-417725/index4/#post5793657
If anyone has seen the aftermath of a plane crash where there was a fire, usually all that is left are charred bodies, wingtips, engines and maybe the tail, the rest is slag.
Those chevy commercials were also found to be highly faked, especially the tool box drop. As for dent resistance, it is better than steel. I had a prop fly off my plane and hit the side, not a mark, but on my last truck, same thing happened and dinged the door.
One more thing to think of, 5 Star, yes 5 star crash rating! Aluminum has this other property that steel doesn't, ability to absorb a lot of energy, and that right there helps give the F150 a 5 star rating as the body absorbs all that energy and doesn't transfer it to the occupants like steel does.
BTW, my 16 still looks like new underneath and I drive southern Wisconsin winters. Even the chassis is like new. I have a set of bilstien shocks with the aluminum body and they are both corroded from salt, but the truck is perfect.
Here is another one that burned. Not a photoshop.
![[image]](https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.f150forum.com-vbulletin/720x960/7_5077fec70cf25c941c345d9e0dba7bfc28d8d182.jpg)
Some larger boats are using an equal to fiberglass hulls, and aluminum tops and vice versa. Look up Delta industries, Westport yachts among others. safeboats in bremerton washington, makes aluminum rib style boats for government entities. Mostly US Coast Guard. but many go to local police etc too. Quite a few aluminum boat builders here in Washington state. More of those than fiberglass I believe.
Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FS6oBuMxxU
Personally, I don't mind the aluminum. If it does the job, I'm fine with it.
2014 Ford F350 XLT 6.2 SCLB + 2017 Northstar Arrow
colliehauler wrote:
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
What do you mean, this is merely a flesh wound!
But seriously, I don't ever want a vehicle back after a fire, being stolen, or really even a wreck unless pretty minor, regardless of what material the body consists of.
![[image]](https://www.edhat.com/sites/default/files/news_image/whittier-fire-9.jpg)
Fordlover wrote:
But seriously, I don't ever want a vehicle back after a fire, being stolen, or really even a wreck unless pretty minor,
But seriously, I don't ever want a vehicle back after a fire, being stolen, or really even a wreck unless pretty minor,
So if you buy a 2018 truck for say 60K, and you whack a deer and do 15K damage to the front bumper, grill, and fender, maybe tweak the frame horn a little requiring them to put it on the jig. Probably both headlight assemblies and a multitude of brackets, coolers and a ton of plastic. You're then going to unload it taking whatever loss which would most likely be huge? Nowdays a 15 to 20K deer hit is not uncommon.
Just curious.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
2016 F250 CCSB 4x4 6.2L
2001 Lance 820
colliehauler wrote:
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000
"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"
Ron3rd wrote:
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
Toyota had their growing pains as well, under sized brakes and rear differential if I remember correctly.
colliehauler wrote:
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
As far as dings, they claim it's more dent resistant the the steel models. And based on how thin the sheet metal is getting on trucks to make them lighter, I believe it. You can watch a steel hood flex with the wind on the highway or going through the blower at a car wash. The aluminum is thicker.
colliehauler wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
Toyota had their growing pains as well, under sized brakes and rear differential if I remember correctly.colliehauler wrote:
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
Don't pull the tundra into this mess! BTW - it was the Titan that had brake and rear diff problems.
The biggest problem the Tundra had when it released in '07 was camshaft and AIP problems.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
So if you buy a 2018 truck for say 60K, and you whack a deer and do 15K damage to the front bumper, grill, and fender, maybe tweak the frame horn a little requiring them to put it on the jig. Probably both headlight assemblies and a multitude of brackets, coolers and a ton of plastic. You're then going to unload it taking whatever loss which would most likely be huge? Nowdays a 15 to 20K deer hit is not uncommon.
Just curious.
Fordlover wrote:
But seriously, I don't ever want a vehicle back after a fire, being stolen, or really even a wreck unless pretty minor,
But seriously, I don't ever want a vehicle back after a fire, being stolen, or really even a wreck unless pretty minor,
So if you buy a 2018 truck for say 60K, and you whack a deer and do 15K damage to the front bumper, grill, and fender, maybe tweak the frame horn a little requiring them to put it on the jig. Probably both headlight assemblies and a multitude of brackets, coolers and a ton of plastic. You're then going to unload it taking whatever loss which would most likely be huge? Nowdays a 15 to 20K deer hit is not uncommon.
Just curious.
It is true, I wouldn't want it back. I might have to take it back, but I wouldn't want to. I'd say 95% of body repair work isn't done to the quality of what rolls off the assembly time.
I worked at a dealership for several years and I developed a good eye for body/paint work, even good bodywork and paint work was easy for me to spot. I guess you can say my faith in quality and workmanship/pride in my fellow man has waned as I've grown older.
TTCrewmax wrote:
Don't pull the tundra into this mess! BTW - it was the Titan that had brake and rear diff problems.
The biggest problem the Tundra had when it released in '07 was camshaft and AIP problems.
Evidently I did not remember correctly. Did not pay to much attention because they were to small for my RV.
colliehauler wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
Toyota had their growing pains as well, under sized brakes and rear differential if I remember correctly.colliehauler wrote:
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
Don't pull the tundra into this mess! BTW - it was the Titan that had brake and rear diff problems.
The biggest problem the Tundra had when it released in '07 was camshaft and AIP problems.
Powerdude wrote:
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Jeesh, seems like a bit of a reach doesn't it? Is that really how you make your vehicle purchase decisions?
..Well gee let's see, if Brand A catches on fire and is a total loss, the junk yard will be able to sell the tailgate and fender, so that the truck can live on in the form of some other cobbled together disaster project. Brand B would melt to be unusable, so I should get brand A.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/awink.gif "awink")
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif "biggrin")
Either way, it's not uncommon for the door shells to be attached to the frame with epoxies and sealants, and sound deadening material, which would be very unlikely to survive a fire. It wouldn't bother me to salvage a door from a 1970's Chevy, but anything modern? no thanks, Burn, burn to the ground I say.
Here is a bit of video for those who struggle with the concept of metal weakening before it hits melting point, or those of us who some time might have elapsed since materials class in college.
Video
Powerdude wrote:
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Heat warps steel and also ruins the hardness of the steel. That's why you'd be hard pressed to find a good body shop that would use a burned part from a steel body for a repair. Also prior poster makes a good point about adhesives.
I am NOT a mechanic although I do play one in my garage!
Also lost is the fact that most adhesives never stop hardening over time. More so if a catalyst is involved...to become brittle over time...
Ditto most metals...they become brittle over time...
It has been decades since college classes on metallurgy and strength of materials classes...laws of physics don't change...just new ones discovered all the time...though going down into the nano realm...they do change...
colliehauler wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
Toyota had their growing pains as well, under sized brakes and rear differential if I remember correctly.colliehauler wrote:
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
I have never seen a drivable truck after a major fire steel or aluminum so what difference does fire make?
X2. FORD'S getting the same treatment the 2007 Tundra 5.7 got when it first burst on the scene with class leading 381 hp and 401 ft lbs of torque. The Tundra dominated every towing shootout by every major magazine. It destroyed the badly outdated and underpowered F150 so completely that Ford, grasping at straws, launched their "fully boxed frame" campaign. Remember how they showed their frame did not flex and the Tundra'so frame so badly it had to be a "toy truck"? Ford's getting a taste of their own medicine!
True. Then they came out with the second generation Tundra which had the biggest brakes and diff in its class
ol' yeller wrote:
Heat warps steel and also ruins the hardness of the steel. That's why you'd be hard pressed to find a good body shop that would use a burned part from a steel body for a repair. Also prior poster makes a good point about adhesives.
Powerdude wrote:
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Heat warps steel and also ruins the hardness of the steel. That's why you'd be hard pressed to find a good body shop that would use a burned part from a steel body for a repair. Also prior poster makes a good point about adhesives.
Somehow I think one would be replacing a lot more than some hardware to restore a total burned vehicle. Maybe in a vehicle that had a small fire but not one that was completely engulfed.
I see you are talking about just parts on the entire vehicle. In that case sure no problem.
* This post was edited 06/08/18 02:54pm by mich800 *
colliehauler wrote:
Now I'm confused, was it the Titan or the Tundra that had brake and rear differential issues?
Now I'm confused, was it the Titan or the Tundra that had brake and rear differential issues?
It was the Titan. The 1st generation Tundra did have small brakes and a small rear diff - but generally were trouble free.
TTCrewmax wrote:
It was the Titan. The 1st generation Tundra did have small brakes and a small rear diff - but generally were trouble free.
colliehauler wrote:
Now I'm confused, was it the Titan or the Tundra that had brake and rear differential issues?
Now I'm confused, was it the Titan or the Tundra that had brake and rear differential issues?
It was the Titan. The 1st generation Tundra did have small brakes and a small rear diff - but generally were trouble free.
X2, I owned one of those too.
Powerdude wrote:
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Found a shell for you. The aluminum wheels didn't even melt.
![[image]](https://image.pennlive.com/home/penn-media/width600/img/news/photo/2018/07/31/screen-shot-2018-07-31-at-72304-ampng-174366f73b754b7b.png)
Full disclosure, this truck hit 17 vehicles before bursting into flames..
source story
Fordlover wrote:
Found a shell for you. The aluminum wheels didn't even melt.
Full disclosure, this truck hit 17 vehicles before bursting into flames..
source story
Powerdude wrote:
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Found a shell for you. The aluminum wheels didn't even melt.
Full disclosure, this truck hit 17 vehicles before bursting into flames..
source story
This truck looks like a Ram Quad cab not a Ford F-150! Truck hit 17 vehicles yet the front bumper structure is unharmed. Weird!
* This post was edited 07/31/18 08:01am by womps *
womps wrote:
This truck looks like a Ram Quad cab not a Ford F-150! Truck hit 17 vehicles yet the front bumper structure is unharmed. Weird!
Fordlover wrote:
Found a shell for you. The aluminum wheels didn't even melt.
Full disclosure, this truck hit 17 vehicles before bursting into flames..
source story
Powerdude wrote:
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Hey, you can take those burned out steel shells, reinstall the hardware, paint them, and they'll be as good as new.
A friend of mine got a burned out door shell from a junkyard way back. He just reinstalled all the rubber and plastic parts, the glass, re-painted it, and it was fine !
Can't do that with an aluminum door.
Found a shell for you. The aluminum wheels didn't even melt.
Full disclosure, this truck hit 17 vehicles before bursting into flames..
source story
This truck looks like a Ram Quad cab not a Ford F-150! Truck hit 17 vehicles yet the front bumper structure is unharmed. Weird!
Yep, it’s a Ram. Not an F150. Notice the angled left fender where the headlight assembly goes, Ram. Notice the mirror mounts, Ram. Notice the smaller rear doors, Ram. Notice the wheels, Ram. So if the aluminum wheels are the only thing that didn’t melt then what does that say about Ford?
The article said he side swiped, which is more akin to knocking the mirror or swapping a bit of paint with vehicles parked on the side of the road.
TTCrewmax wrote:
It was the Titan. The 1st generation Tundra did have small brakes and a small rear diff - but generally were trouble free.
colliehauler wrote:
Now I'm confused, was it the Titan or the Tundra that had brake and rear differential issues?
Now I'm confused, was it the Titan or the Tundra that had brake and rear differential issues?
It was the Titan. The 1st generation Tundra did have small brakes and a small rear diff - but generally were trouble free.
Trouble free except for maybe the frames that rotted into nothing.
snowedin wrote:
My 2017 F150 just went through a hail storm and was amazed at how well the aluminum body fared in the storm. The hail shredded the vinyl siding on the house but can only find very small dimples in the F150. Damaged the F150, Yes, but not as bad as I thought it would. This storm was accompanied with 60 mph winds so the hail was attacking at an angle. The insurance adjuster comes today. Suppose a small dent is just as costly as a larger dent to repair but will find out when the adjuster comes. My 2014 went through a hail storm and the damage to the aluminum hood was the same as to the steel roof.
My 2017 F150 just went through a hail storm and was amazed at how well the aluminum body fared in the storm. The hail shredded the vinyl siding on the house but can only find very small dimples in the F150. Damaged the F150, Yes, but not as bad as I thought it would. This storm was accompanied with 60 mph winds so the hail was attacking at an angle. The insurance adjuster comes today. Suppose a small dent is just as costly as a larger dent to repair but will find out when the adjuster comes. My 2014 went through a hail storm and the damage to the aluminum hood was the same as to the steel roof.
a tiny chunk of dry ice will often fix the hail damage ,never tried it on a aluminum body