So I went camping once last year after it was installed and noticed it didn't power any electrical outlets. I would have thought a $500 install would have included wiring it to the panel to power the outlets. It's in the shop now and I asked them about it, they said I would need a bigger inverter to power the outlets. I'm like, it's a 2000 amp inverter, it should be plenty big. And installing it where I need to run an extension cord is dumb. They also said I can't run it to the go power solar panel control, because that had a button to turn the inverter on and off.
I boondock one 5 night trip a year and a couple 3 night trips, so a running inverter is pretty useful.
Please let me know your thoughts.
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2001400ex wrote:
..it didn't power any electrical outlets. I would have thought a $500 install would have included wiring it to the panel to power the outlets. It's in the shop now and I asked them about it, they said I would need a bigger inverter to power the outlets. I'm like, it's a 2000 amp inverter,.
Bummer. I've never talked to an RV shop that knew much about inverters, and unless you tell them exactly what you want, it's a crapshoot. What kind of wire did they use to connect it to the batteries? (assuming they even did that.) Kinda surprised you took it back to the same shop...it didn't power any electrical outlets. I would have thought a $500 install would have included wiring it to the panel to power the outlets. It's in the shop now and I asked them about it, they said I would need a bigger inverter to power the outlets. I'm like, it's a 2000 amp inverter,.
A bigger inverter to power the outlets? That's nonsense, unless you run your coffee maker and toaster at the same time. Sounds like all they did was hook it to the battery and you plug into it. That actually works ok, but you gotta turn off a few things, like the converter and the water heater. And you use your RV cord, not an extension cord... again, assuming that will reach.
I'm like, it's a 2000 WATT inverter. Too bad you didn't ask here first. Oh well...
A few of the outlets were not "redirected" to the new breaker box.
It did not carry much of a load for any length of time. Further investigation showed that the wire used from inverter to batteries was not the proper size. The installer cut corners by installing the wrong size wire (#6) . . . it wasn't heavy enough. The manuals specify that "00" size wire should to be used, but he either didn't read the manual or didn't think we'd notice!
* This post was edited 04/21/18 04:48pm by jcpainter *
You also need to have it wired so the converter (charger) is NOT connected when the inverter is running. Otherwise the converter tries to charge the battery from the inverter connected to the batteries. Not good!
When I installed mine, I added a subpanel and transfer switch. On the inverter, a 1000W sine wave, the inverter via the subpanel is only connected to outlets and microwave. will not power the fridge, converter, AC or water heater.
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jcpainter wrote:
Further investigation showed that the wire used from generator to inverter was not the proper size.
I don't understand.. why a wire there?
Further investigation showed that the wire used from generator to inverter was not the proper size.
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Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
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time2roll wrote:
How is the inverter wired? How many batteries? What size 12v wire?
Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
How is the inverter wired? How many batteries? What size 12v wire?
Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
Hope you mean 3000 watt not 300. a 300 watt inverter might power a laptop, not much else... Sort of like the Op with a 2000 amp inverter If he has that he must have a portable power generation plant.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/eek.gif "eek")
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Yes it just powers a tv, dvd, Chromebook and other small items as needed. Has run the fridge when the propane would not ignite.
2oldman wrote:
jcpainter wrote:
Further investigation showed that the wire used from generator to inverter was not the proper size.
I don't understand.. why a wire there?Further investigation showed that the wire used from generator to inverter was not the proper size.
OMGoodness, how embarrassing. My mind was thinking one thing and my fingers typed something else. The wire was from the inverter to the batteries, not the generator. They used #6 wire and it should have been #00.
jcpainter wrote:
They used #6 wire and it should have been #00.
2/0 would be tight depending on length. I recommend 4/0 for 2000 watts.They used #6 wire and it should have been #00.
Custom cable here:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables?size=48
SidecarFlip wrote:
Hope you mean 3000 watt not 300. a 300 watt inverter might power a laptop, not much else... Sort of like the Op with a 2000 amp inverter If he has that he must have a portable power generation plant.
time2roll wrote:
How is the inverter wired? How many batteries? What size 12v wire?
Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
How is the inverter wired? How many batteries? What size 12v wire?
Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
Hope you mean 3000 watt not 300. a 300 watt inverter might power a laptop, not much else... Sort of like the Op with a 2000 amp inverter If he has that he must have a portable power generation plant.
Yes 2000 Watt lol
time2roll wrote:
How is the inverter wired? How many batteries? What size 12v wire?
Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
How is the inverter wired? How many batteries? What size 12v wire?
Does it just sit there and you have to plug in the main cord?
Otherwise you need to pull wire and install a transfer switch and remote if you want push button power.
Ok to post some pictures.
BTW my 300 watt inverter powers the outlets just fine. Dealer is full of it or does not understand electricity.
2 12 volt batteries, not sure how it's wired. Right now it's in my basement close to the batteries. To use it, I have to go outside the fifth wheel, open the basement, turn it on, plug on an extension cord and run it to what I want, clearly not useful. I was expecting to be able to plug into any outlet and use them after the install like they come from the factory.
time2roll wrote:
Custom cable here:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables?size=48
jcpainter wrote:
They used #6 wire and it should have been #00.
2/0 would be tight depending on length. I recommend 4/0 for 2000 watts.They used #6 wire and it should have been #00.
Custom cable here:
http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables?size=48
The 2/0 or "00" (double ought) is what the manual said to use.
2001400ex wrote:
I was expecting to be able to plug into any outlet and use them after the install like they come from the factory.
You can if you just plug your shore cord in like I said earlier.
I was expecting to be able to plug into any outlet and use them after the install like they come from the factory.
Generally small ones (under 1,000 watts) only power the TV and related stuff
around 1500 they add in some outlets and/or the microwave
Around 2KW they add in outlets AND the microwave
They may also have ASSUMED you wanted to power the fridge. OF course I'm sure you remember how to spell Assume the same away I do, with hyphens on either side of the "U".
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All the connections (except for the battery) are in one place. It is possible to wiring in a remote start for the generator.
Mike. Comments are anecdotal or personal opinions, and worth what you paid for them.
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2oldman wrote:
2001400ex wrote:
I was expecting to be able to plug into any outlet and use them after the install like they come from the factory.
You can if you just plug your shore cord in like I said earlier.I was expecting to be able to plug into any outlet and use them after the install like they come from the factory.
Lol you did say that but not really. You skipped that part but I can see it now that I reread it.
That's a good idea, would actually work ok. Have to run the cord, it's outside to outside at least.
yes ?
then step (1) is turn off the circuit breaker for your charge converter
step (2) put fridge on LP, put water heater on LP
step (3) use what ever adapter is needed and plug your shore cord into the inverter
turn on inverter
reverse process when you need the generator
BEFORE you start the generator
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
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I had the same issue last year when deciding what and how to wire in an inverter. The recommendation I liked most and followed from the folks here was to add a standalone ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) to the shore power/inverter circuits to keep the charger, inverter, AC power all powered only when necessary without chance of backfeed, double feed, or conversion loop (battery to AC while AC charging battery)
Then I was able to use whatever inverter size I wanted and use it to power EVERY outlet and AC item in the camper- up to my available inverter amps.
Works perfectly!
![[image]](http://www.diskdoctor.us/camper/cougar304bhs/Cougar%20304BHS%20Wiring%20Diagram_5.png)
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/29545741/gotomsg/29545774.cfm#29545774
MrWizard wrote:
is your shore cord in or near the same basement location ?
yes ?
then step (1) is turn off the circuit breaker for your charge converter
step (2) put fridge on LP, put water heater on LP
step (3) use what ever adapter is needed and plug your shore cord into the inverter
turn on inverter
reverse process when you need the generator
BEFORE you start the generator
is your shore cord in or near the same basement location ?
yes ?
then step (1) is turn off the circuit breaker for your charge converter
step (2) put fridge on LP, put water heater on LP
step (3) use what ever adapter is needed and plug your shore cord into the inverter
turn on inverter
reverse process when you need the generator
BEFORE you start the generator
Step 1... Is that just a circuit breaker in the panel? I don't think I've seen one labeled that before.
DiskDoctr wrote:
I'm guessing the "you need a bigger inverter" suggestion means they were using the built in transfer switch in the inverter?
I had the same issue last year when deciding what and how to wire in an inverter. The recommendation I liked most and followed from the folks here was to add a standalone ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) to the shore power/inverter circuits to keep the charger, inverter, AC power all powered only when necessary without chance of backfeed, double feed, or conversion loop (battery to AC while AC charging battery)
Then I was able to use whatever inverter size I wanted and use it to power EVERY outlet and AC item in the camper- up to my available inverter amps.
Works perfectly!
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/29545741/gotomsg/29545774.cfm#29545774
I'm guessing the "you need a bigger inverter" suggestion means they were using the built in transfer switch in the inverter?
I had the same issue last year when deciding what and how to wire in an inverter. The recommendation I liked most and followed from the folks here was to add a standalone ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) to the shore power/inverter circuits to keep the charger, inverter, AC power all powered only when necessary without chance of backfeed, double feed, or conversion loop (battery to AC while AC charging battery)
Then I was able to use whatever inverter size I wanted and use it to power EVERY outlet and AC item in the camper- up to my available inverter amps.
Works perfectly!
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/29545741/gotomsg/29545774.cfm#29545774
Thanks!!! I'll see what the dealer comes back with on Monday. Then maybe show then this.
DiskDoctr wrote:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/29545741/gotomsg/29545774.cfm#29545774
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/29545741/gotomsg/29545774.cfm#29545774
Is your 20 receptacle really directly fed from shore/generator power or is it from the 120V distribution panel?
Also, do you have another ATS in the Shore power / generator block (that you've left out for simplicity) or do you manually plug shore power into the generator?
2001400ex wrote:
Step 1... Is that just a circuit breaker in the panel? I don't think I've seen one labeled that before.
MrWizard wrote:
is your shore cord in or near the same basement location ?
yes ?
then step (1) is turn off the circuit breaker for your charge converter
step (2) put fridge on LP, put water heater on LP
step (3) use what ever adapter is needed and plug your shore cord into the inverter
turn on inverter
reverse process when you need the generator
BEFORE you start the generator
is your shore cord in or near the same basement location ?
yes ?
then step (1) is turn off the circuit breaker for your charge converter
step (2) put fridge on LP, put water heater on LP
step (3) use what ever adapter is needed and plug your shore cord into the inverter
turn on inverter
reverse process when you need the generator
BEFORE you start the generator
Step 1... Is that just a circuit breaker in the panel? I don't think I've seen one labeled that before.
My distribution panel didn't have a label either and I had to experiment to find the correct one.
Kevin
DiskDoctr wrote:
I'm guessing the "you need a bigger inverter" suggestion means they were using the built in transfer switch in the inverter?
'Bigger' wouldn't be the word that comes to my mind if referring to a transfer switch, but as I said, RV techs don't know a lot about this stuff.
I'm guessing the "you need a bigger inverter" suggestion means they were using the built in transfer switch in the inverter?
this Bounder had some labels, but i went thru tested everything and relabeled
its common 'now' to have the converter on a separate 20amp circuit
although many smaller older RVs have it on the same circuit as some outlets
the OPs new fiver should be separate cicruit
joebedford wrote:
Is your 20 receptacle really directly fed from shore/generator power or is it from the 120V distribution panel?
Is your 20 receptacle really directly fed from shore/generator power or is it from the 120V distribution panel?
The input from the shore power cable into the ATS lugs is double tapped from the shore power cable side to provide a 20 amp receptacle into which the new Progressive Dynamics converter/charger is plugged.
Quote:
Also, do you have another ATS in the Shore power / generator block (that you've left out for simplicity) or do you manually plug shore power into the generator?
Also, do you have another ATS in the Shore power / generator block (that you've left out for simplicity) or do you manually plug shore power into the generator?
We have a TT, so the generator is external (Champion) and we do set it up using a 25ft 30 amp extension cord connected to the shore power line.
The goal of that connection is to only power the converter/charger when the shore power cable was energized.
It was a brilliant suggestion from the folks here. REALLY simplified things and made it "idiot proof"
Only thing I have to worry about is turning off the inverter if we won't be using it for an extended period...and that is only for wear and tear purposes (or we want to have the TT powered down from AC for an extended period like a really long tow).
The standby on our inverter is so low, not even worth turning on/off.
I posted the link as well, so others can follow the thought process and discussions that lead to this setup.
Did that answer your questions?
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
Edit to add: I think this is the ATS wiring diagram.
![[image]](https://invertersrus.com/wp-content/uploads/images/products/p-5779-go-power-gp-ts-diagram-1.gif.gif)
2oldman wrote:
DiskDoctr wrote:
I'm guessing the "you need a bigger inverter" suggestion means they were using the built in transfer switch in the inverter?
'Bigger' wouldn't be the word that comes to my mind if referring to a transfer switch, but as I said, RV techs don't know a lot about this stuff.I'm guessing the "you need a bigger inverter" suggestion means they were using the built in transfer switch in the inverter?
I was thinking "bigger" referred to the amps the inverter's built-in transfer switch was designed to handle. With an inverter less than 30amps, maybe they figured your "30 amp coach" couldn't be be fully supplied.
I had a similar concern, didn't want to buy a larger inverter (cost + standby power). I had a choice between a smaller pure sine wave (1800w/2100w surge) and a larger modified sine wave. Also due to the discussions and info here, I went with PSW, which is better for our needs.
You remember, thanks
Obviously, I'm just speculating as to 'why' the techs suggested a larger inverter
I took a pic of the fuse panel. If I switch off "converter" before I run the cord from the cable outside to the inverter, will that work?
Thanks again for everyone's input!!!
![[image]](http://s805.photobucket.com/user/2001400ex/media/190D0474-0C39-4175-A6A9-CB0A0767BF8E_zps6nivoasj.jpg.html)
time2roll wrote:
Yes switch off the converter. May as well switch off water heater and air conditioner too. Set the fridge to propane only as it might be connected to GFI or General circuits.
Yes switch off the converter. May as well switch off water heater and air conditioner too. Set the fridge to propane only as it might be connected to GFI or General circuits.
Yeah my fridge can go on propane of course. My hot water heater has 2 options, one for propane and one for electric. Of course would put that on propane.
Thanks for the reply!!
I have a 1000 watt inverter wired into my 110v system and it works flawlessly, I just can't run anything over 1000 amps which gets us by just fine.
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allen8106 wrote:
You don't need a bigger inverter. The inverter needs to be properly wired into the campers 110v electrical system. Then you just can't run anything that exceeds 2000 amps for a single appliance or as a combination of several appliances.
I have a 1000 watt inverter wired into my 110v system and it works flawlessly, I just can't run anything over 1000 amps which gets us by just fine.
You don't need a bigger inverter. The inverter needs to be properly wired into the campers 110v electrical system. Then you just can't run anything that exceeds 2000 amps for a single appliance or as a combination of several appliances.
I have a 1000 watt inverter wired into my 110v system and it works flawlessly, I just can't run anything over 1000 amps which gets us by just fine.
Methinks you're confusing "watts" with "amps" ... BIG difference. Heck, around here all the houses including mine are wired with 100 amp service, 1000 amps around here would power 10 houses.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/doh.gif "doh")
And FWIW, nominal voltage here in N America is 120 vac +/- 5%, not 110, not 115, not 117 as once was the case many, many, many, many years ago.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/awink.gif "awink")
1000 'WATTS'
NOT AMPS
2000 watts, 12v battery bank roughly 165 Amps draw
1000 watts roughly 87 amps draw
You can't go just by the watts label on the appliance, but it gives you some idea of what it will want. You can see on the inverter's watts read-out what it actually pulls.
Also a microwave pulls less from a MSW inverter than from a PSW inverter, but it also has lower cooking power. Some MSW inverters have a hard time with microwaves and other inductive loads. Pick a MSW inverter that is rated to run "motors" for best results if you don't go to PSW.
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time2roll wrote:
Nope. Just 300 watts.
Yes it just powers a tv, dvd, Chromebook and other small items as needed. Has run the fridge when the propane would not ignite.
Nope. Just 300 watts.
Yes it just powers a tv, dvd, Chromebook and other small items as needed. Has run the fridge when the propane would not ignite.
Me too
Just use my little 350 watter to power the tv, DVD etc
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