Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Home solar panel on RV...anyone attempted?

Print | Close

Topic: Home solar panel on RV...anyone attempted?

Posted By: TobyG on 03/14/18 03:22pm

Okay, I have one extra solar panel from my home system. The panel is 66.5" x 40" in size see the specs below. I have looked online and haven't been able to find many people who have done this. Am I missing something? I have only a basic knowledge of solar but, on the surface it seems like it should work with the right sized controller. My thought is if I can mount one large panel vs. several smaller panels it would just simplify installation. So, my questions are:
1. can I use the home panel on my Trailer?
2. what controller?
3. where to mount on the roof?

With regard to that last quetion. My 1st choice would be near the front (see arrow) for making the wiring easier as well as less things in the way to possibly shade the panel. Main concern is the excessive wind at the front. Which brings me the the question of how to mount and have the option of tilting the panel?
Other mounting options would be near the back (see other two arrow) However mounting back there would bring possible shading issues into play.

Thoughts??? Idea?

[image]

Posted By: dave17352 on 03/14/18 03:43pm

I am no solar expert either but I put a couple panels on my TC. I don't think there will be any problem using the panel. You want to mount it where it is the lease likely to get shaded. So I would stay as far away from the AC and Vents as possible.

NOW 2017 Leprechaun 260ds
2005 Forrest River Cardinal 29rkle FW
1998 Lance 980 11'3" TC
2017 CHEVY 3500 SRW 6.0
B@W turnover ball @ companion Hitch
Honda eu3000 generator mounted on cargo rack
Crestliner 1850 Fish Ski boat mostly fishing now!

Posted By: TobyG on 03/14/18 04:25pm

That's what I was thinking also. If I did go with my 1st choice and mount it in the front away from AC and vents. I am wondering since it's considerably larger than a typical 100 watt panel how would I mount it? I would hate to have it rip off at highway speed. Maybe a wind deflector?

Posted By: rbpru on 03/14/18 05:02pm

The one thing I have questioned about solar mounted on the roof, is you would have to park in the sun.

Our TT becomes an oven in the sun. I would think free standing in the sun would be a better option.

Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/14/18 05:52pm

Yes, you can use that panel with an MPPT controller.

Posted By: JBarca on 03/14/18 05:55pm

Hi,

I am interested in your topic as soon I may have the same thing later this year. Mine would be a single 300 watt panel. 65.95" x 39.4" Sounds like size you would have

Also, your photobucket pics are not posting. They yanked the 3rd party hosting unless you had a prior pro account or the 500 gig pro account. All we see is an error message

Thanks

John

John & Cindy

2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver

2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)

Posted By: terry thiessen on 03/14/18 06:10pm

I use a home type panel .i have it on 30 foot cable so i can park in the shade and put the panel in the sun.

Posted By: time2roll on 03/14/18 06:15pm

I put three in series up on the roof. See signature link.

2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up

Posted By: TobyG on 03/14/18 09:36pm

Specs of solar panel

mounting location options

Posted By: TobyG on 03/14/18 09:50pm

rbpru wrote:

We currently have a small portable solar setup. We just need more power and I really don't want to be lugging around and setting up a bunch of solar panels.

Hence the desire for one big panel mounted on the roof with the ability to tilt two directions.

Posted By: JBarca on 03/14/18 09:59pm

TobyG wrote:

Specs of solar panel

mounting location options

For some reason, the first link takes us to a pic on Photo Bucket of your LG solar cell.

The 2nd link to mounting locations takes us to Photo Bucket and it shows the 3rd party linking error. No pics. Don't know why it is doing that on it's own site other then the path came from here.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/14/18 10:01pm

JBarca wrote:

I copy and pasted the pictures into the link button. They are appearing now. Hopefully, they will stay.
Does anyone have ideas for mounting the panel?

Posted By: westend on 03/14/18 10:05pm

I have a larger panel (24V nominal) with a four way tilt. I'd suggest to just use a single tilt direction and you may not even use that after a while. Getting up there and adjusting the tilt mechanism could get old, fast. I tilt my single panel before storing in the Winter. Otherwise, it is deployed flat. If you absolutely want four-way tilt, PM me and I can send images.

'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Posted By: TobyG on 03/14/18 10:11pm

JBarca wrote:

TobyG wrote:

Specs of solar panel

mounting location options

It worked for me when I clicked the links. If anyone can help me fix my pics. I'd appreciate it.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/15/18 07:25am

Boon Docker wrote:

Yes, you can use that panel with an MPPT controller.

Thanks BD, any suggestions or recommendations on which MPPT controler? Not looking for the most expensive. Rather I'm more of a bang for the buck kinda guy. I'm okay spending a little more but, what I'm getting for that price needs to be justified.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/15/18 07:46am

terry thiessen wrote:

I use a home type panel .i have it on 30 foot cable so i can park in the shade and put the panel in the sun.

I'm currently doing that with 3 small panels which are easy to move around and can be stored in a closet. However, with a 66.5" X 40" panel my challenge would be moving it around without banging it up as well as where to store it? Also, since I camp in the desert (most of the time) it would need to be anchored for when the wind picks up which equals more **** to carry. So, that's what has brought me to the conclusion to just mount it to the roof and be done with it. Makes my camping life just a little easy and adds to my relaxation time. Which is a win win in my book.

Posted By: lawrosa on 03/15/18 09:46am

TobyG wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:

Yes, you can use that panel with an MPPT controller.

I use two residential panels and move them around...

If your going to mount them on roof lift the back a bit higher then the front for wind resistance..

Your best off finding the roof trusses and using the residential rails they use. Just like what's on your home.. Make sure your mounting points for the rails are in the trusses.

Do not use stick on anything... The panel will just rip off. The EDPM of TPO will just lift...

As far as controller goes the best inexpensive IMO is the epever 30 or 40 amp mppt. 3 amp would be good for your one panel. If you may expand get the 30..

350 watts / 12volts = about 30 amps

I park in the shade why I stayed portable. And most camp sites are shaded. I live on east coast. If I lived out west I may reconsider roof mount..

560 watts

[image]

40 amp epever tracer A series Mppt with 1100 watt krieger inverter.

[image]

This was 5000 ft up in the smokey mountains when I only had one panel.. Yes camping was in the road as these were all tent sites...

I was getting 20 amps here at this altitude and it was like 4pm...

[image]

Mike L ... N.J.

2006 Silverado ext cab long bed. 3:42 rear. LM7 5.3 motor. 300 hp 350 ft lbs torgue @ 4000 rpms
2018 coachmen Catalina sbx 261bh

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/15/18 11:08am

TobyG wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:

Yes, you can use that panel with an MPPT controller.

The controller (Tracer) mentioned above is an excellent choice. I have been using one for 6 years now and am quite pleased with it.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/15/18 11:28am

lawrosa wrote:

TobyG wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:

Yes, you can use that panel with an MPPT controller.

40 amp epever tracer A series Mppt with 1100 watt krieger inverter.

[image]

Thanks, those are some good ideas. I was thinking the same thing with regards to mounting on the trusses. I will look into residential racking and the Tracer MPPT controllers.

Posted By: lawrosa on 03/15/18 02:36pm

Best deal with mt 50 meter and temp sensor..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XP39BK/ref=twister_B077ZN5SP5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Solar racking is just mounts for the trusses. Then two rails. Solar panel lays on the rails. And clips hold the panels to the rails. So the rails always stay there. But you can remove panel for cleaning roof easy.

Mount the rails though so they slope up from front of RV. Puts the panel at a slight angle for wind deflection.

So you will need higher mounts for rear vs front if you know what I mean..

[image]

And I was going to run the wire from the panel over the roof edge and down the awning track. Then down under the trailer. Whear the wire comes out of awning track at bottom I was going to use some electrical wire cover..

[image]

Posted By: westend on 03/16/18 12:44am

An alternative to using a panel rail system:
[image]

The three "rails" that are attached to the trailer roof are 1 1/2" aluminum architectural channel. The panel in it's horizontal position attach with pins into these three channels. When tilted, the panel attaches to the channels on one end and the tilt struts are attached to the hole on the other end of the channel.

In this four-way tilt mechanism the panel is actually mounted to 1 1/2" aluminum angle and the angles are attached to hinges, as is the panel. That provides the opposed tilt angle. As I said, a simple two way or one way tilt is probably all that is needed.

Hinges:
[image]

If you wish to achieve a very engineered solution to storing the tilt struts, design the tilting mechanism so that the struts are stored within the mechanism. I did a good bit of head scratching to make that possible.

A large part of the solar installation should deal with 12V distribution and wiring. You may wish to use bus bars, disconnect switches, and circuit protection, to name a few.

* This post was edited 03/16/18 12:51am by westend *

Posted By: TobyG on 03/16/18 09:43am

lawrosa wrote:

That does look like a good deal on the controller setup. Since it sounds like several people on here have used that controller, can you tell me if this unit is has an automatic mode or do I need to adjust all of the various settings?

Posted By: TobyG on 03/16/18 10:04am

westend wrote:

An alternative to using a panel rail system:
[image]

I like it! Thanks for sharing. I was thinking of something along those lines (minus the 3rd and 4th tilt angles) but, it's going to depend on exactly where my trusses lie. Once it stops raining maybe I'll get a chance to go measure. Obviously, depending on how many hours of sun your system gets will determine how many AH you're putting back into you batteries. But, on average what is the total amp hours your system is able to put back into your batteries?

Posted By: lawrosa on 03/16/18 11:02am

Quote:

Yes more or less it has an automatic mode. Just set the type batteries and the bulk, absorb, and float charge parameters are already in there..

I believe its preset for flooded @.

14.6 bulk/absorb
13.8 float.

Floats a bit high IMO and should be lowered

You can customize the voltages.

WOW!!!! Looks like EPever is discontinuing that model...??? Wonder why and what will replace it..

http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Product/index/id/653/am_id/134

Posted By: westend on 03/17/18 02:46am

Quote:

Obviously, depending on how many hours of sun your system gets will determine how many AH you're putting back into you batteries. But, on average what is the total amp hours your system is able to put back into your batteries?

When camping, the 235W panel puts back in 60+ AH/day. A lot depends on where I am and what time of year. In the Summer, at my location at 45 North, it is daylight until 9 PM close to the Equinox. I've seen the panel still adding in charge current even close after sunset. It's a small trickle but there is still power being harvested.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/17/18 10:26pm

westend wrote:

Quote:

Thanks for sharing your experience. I was anticipating somewhere between 60-80 Ah each day.

Posted By: westend on 03/18/18 12:11pm

You're welcome.
Just know that once you get everything with solar installed, the system is pretty much set and forget. Batteries are the only real maintenance item.

I have a Victron battery monitor, large analog meters, and computer interface with the controller, all of which I mostly disregard. While in storage, I'll check the Victron and every once and a while, hook up the laptop. It is fun to see what the panel and controller are doing in real time with all of the parameters. My controller, Morningstar MPPT-15, has temp compensation for the batteries so the first couple of years I monitored that.

Here are some things you may not have thought about for your installation: Use large wire. The cost of larger wire will be returned in added harvest, later. I use a manual Bussman circuit breaker between panel and controller. It's easy to shut off power from the panel if wiring maintenance is necesary. A good alternative to tilting and moving around loose solar modules is to add another flat mounted panel. It's just a few more brackets and a wire connection. Never has to be fooled with again. Solar power gets addictive. That free electric power can be used for a lot of tasks. If you only install one module, plan the installation for upgrading in the future. I installed a roof mounted connection box for this purpose.

Posted By: allen8106 on 03/21/18 07:07am

There's no such thing as "home" panels vs. "RV" panels. Solar panels is solar panels no matter what. You can put them on your house or your RV they are interchangeable. For that panel I would go with a Magnum MMS1012 inverter/charger with remote, a Bogart battery monitor, a Tristar TS-45 controller and a couple 6 volt 240ah Crown batteries. For that panel an MPPT controller is overkill and not worth the extra cost unless you think you'll ever expand above 600 watts of solar.

2010 Eagle Super Lite 315RLDS
2018 GMC Sierra 3500HD 6.6L Duramax

2010 Nights 45
2011 Nights 70
2012 Nights 144
2013 Nights 46
2014 Nights 49
2015 Nights 57
2016 Nights 73
2017 Nights 40
2018 Nights 56
2019 Nights 76
2020 Nights 68

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/21/18 07:29am

Don't waste your money on a PWM controller, it would not be a good choice with a 34 volt panel. The controller will clip the voltage above 12 volts.

Posted By: doc brown on 03/21/18 08:03am

Sure can. I have 4 x 100 watt panels on the roof of my class A with a MPPT controller. They actually start to charge just as the sun begins to rise before you can see it. My coach is stored indoors under a skylight and it will also charge a bit.

Steve,Kathy and Josh
Morpheus(Basenji)at Rainbow Bridge
2004 40' TSDP Country Coach Inspire DaVinci
350 Cummins, 3000 Allison
2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport S, Air Force One Braking, Blue Ox

Posted By: TobyG on 03/21/18 12:15pm

Thanks for the suggestions on equipment and just for the record I'm aware that there is no such thing as a "home panels and RV panels" I was merely trying to paint a visual for people. The panel I have is an: LG335N1C-A5 Since I can't get my pictures to work the specs on the panel are:
Vmp 34.10 V
Imp 9.83 A
Voc 41.00 V
Isc 10.49 A
Pmax 335 watt

I am only using one panel. I'm trying to decide on MPPT controllers. Currently I am looking at the
Epever 40A MPPT
or the
EpicSolar 40A MPPT
but, I am open to hear other suggestions.
I also, need to look at switchable fuses, bussbar, wire and some other incidentals. Does anyone have suggestions on what would be a good fit for my size system?

Posted By: lawrosa on 03/21/18 12:30pm

TobyG wrote:

The two controllers you linked are the same controllers... Watch where you order from. The solar epic comes from hong kong.. The epever sold by ZHC can be fulfilled by amazon...

Posted By: westend on 03/21/18 06:05pm

I will list my gear here since where you are headed is fairly similar. I'll leave some comments, also.

Module = 235W USA built panel (no longer being mfg) 36V Vmp, 7.5 A Imp, Pmax 235W
Controller = Morningstar MPPT-15 with MS software included. I wouldn't buy a controller without robust software, it makes allocating settings very easy and you can observe in real time what the harvest is.
Circuit protection = Bussman 25 A manual breaker between panel and controller.
Bus bars = I built my own out of 4" plastic boxes and copper bars. The bars are tapped to accomodate 1/4" SAE threads.
Wire = I have a roof top junction box with two connection terminal strips, again, built from hardware I had and a few store-bought items. It will allow me to expand system with another parallel loaded module. MC4 12 ga from the panel to the box. 4AWG cable is used for everything downstream and to bus bars/batteries.

I have two battery banks, at present, with 300AH of capacity. There is a bus bar for each battery bank (+) phase and a common (-) phase bus. I made a distribution panel that controls current to/from both battery banks to charge controller, converter, and inverter. I wanted the flexibility to draw or charge to either bank.

Bus bars:
[image]

Distribution panel:
[image]

The paper cutout is where the inverter is located.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/21/18 06:06pm

lawrosa wrote:

TobyG wrote:

The two controllers you linked are the same controllers... Watch where you order from. The solar epic comes from hong kong.. The epever sold by ZHC can be fulfilled by amazon...

Thanks, any suggestions on wire or fuses and where to get a good price? My run from the batteries to the controller and inverter are 5-6'. The solar panels to the controller is less than 10 feet.

Posted By: westend on 03/22/18 01:58am

You don't state the size of the inverter and that will dictate your highest current draw and your largest cable size. Most inverters have wire sizes applicable to the current. Your panel won't develop more than about 20 amp charge current so the smallest sized wire from controller to battery would be 12 AWG. 36V and maximium current from the panel would indicate 12 AWG also to be adequate.

FWIW, since I decided to have the least loss of harvest possible and had to order 100' of 4 AWG, I decided to use it for most of my runs. I bought the cable at Waytek Wire, they are local to me. A good online seller that will make custom wire pieces is Genuinedealz.com.

Here is a wire gauge calculator: Calculator

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/22/18 09:29am

TobyG, what is the distance between the panel and the charge controller and what distance between the controller and the batteries?

Posted By: TobyG on 03/22/18 10:10am

Boon Docker wrote:

TobyG, what is the distance between the panel and the charge controller and what distance between the controller and the batteries?

both runs will be 5-6' max.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/22/18 10:19am

westend wrote:

Thanks! I will check out that site for wire. I currently have a 1000watt inverter (modified sine) but, I just came across a great "open-box" deal on a 3000watt inverter with a remote on/off switch also mod-sine. What I found with the 1000w is it didn't like the load my coffee maker put on it and keep beeping at me even though the coffee maker was only 900w. The new 3k inverter states to use 00awg wire and a 500-amp ANL fuse if hard wired. Does this sound like overkill?

Posted By: TobyG on 03/22/18 10:33am

TobyG wrote:

Boon Docker wrote:

TobyG, what is the distance between the panel and the charge controller and what distance between the controller and the batteries?

both runs will be 5-6' max.

scratch that, I miss-read the 1st time. The run from the panel to controller is less than 10'. I'd say closer to 8'based on where I think I can run the cable. The run between the controller and the batteries is 5-6'.

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/22/18 11:46am

I would go with with minimum 8 AWG for the run from the controller to the batteries.

Six foot run at 13 volts / 20 amps.
Loss with 12 AWG = 0.38 volts (way too much voltage drop)
Loss with 8 AWG = 0.15 volts (still a bit high)

* This post was edited 03/22/18 12:05pm by Boon Docker *

Posted By: lawrosa on 03/22/18 02:53pm

Dont know why it wasnt posted, or maybe I missed it on my re-read... What batterys do you have?

Your 1000 watt inverter may be set for crazy alarm voltages. My krieger inverter is a 10 volt cut off with a 10.5 volt alarm.

You do realize when you runn a 1000 watt load from the inverter you are drawing 90 amps from the batterys?

Standby losses are about .5 amps.

Now you think a 3000 watt inverter will fix it? Nope. It will be worse. Technically if you tried to draw 3000 watts thats 250 amps... Ha ha ha.. LOL.

Let us know the batts you have.

Maybe its

1. you have 6 volts and they have higher resistance why the voltage drop.
2. The inverter has a high alarm value like 11.5 or something. ( post actual models.
3. You dont have enough battery and/or wire is so small you have too much voltage drop

What to do>

1. Make coffee in a stove top percolator.
2. Warm food the old fashioned way. Pots, pans, oven,
3. Forget the microwave. Buy jiffy pop. Warm coffee on the stove..

12v offers lower resistance possibly. I have not proven this yet. But I still use 12 volters.

Watch this video. Sorry I mumble

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz2ttT8fFLc

And this draw test with toaster over..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7p-oNT8YDIs&t=1351s

Posted By: TobyG on 03/23/18 11:02am

Boon Docker wrote:

I appreciate the info. I was thinking 6awg from the controller to the batteries. However the run from the batteries to the 3k inverter is another story. The inverter came with 0AWG wire but, it's only 15" which is about 4' short. What I was thinking was to use the provided 15" 0AWG wire to a 400A waterproof breaker mounted to the tongue of the trailer, then continue to the inverter with more 0AWG wire.
Final piece of the puzzle what size breaker should be used between the panel and the controller. I haven't settled on which controller but, I do know it will be 35A or 40A based on what's needed.(335w panel to 2x 6v battery bank) The reason for a breaker is to give me a simple way to disconnect the panel if any work needs to be done. It's not something I intend to use regularly.Thoughts and or suggestions?

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/23/18 12:23pm

Posted By: Boon Docker on 03/23/18 12:27pm

Using AWG 6 is a good idea, then the voltage drop will be only 0.095 V.

I have been using this inline circuit breaker for 7 years now between the panels and controller, works great.

Posted By: TobyG on 03/24/18 05:35pm

lawrosa wrote:

Thanks for the info. I currently have an old XPower by Xantrax 1000 inverter connected to two 6v golf cart batteries with 220ah. However, after further investigation I have figured out that my wire might be the culprit. I thought I had wired it with 2awg but, in reality it was 4awg wire. I plan to replace the old 1000watt inverter as the new one has a remote switch and it was really too good of a deal to pass up. I know it will drain the batteries faster but, other than the coffee maker we really use very little power on a regular basis.
In the 1st video I noticed your charge controller. By chance is This the controller you have? If so, how has it worked for you?

Posted By: lawrosa on 03/24/18 05:41pm

Yes thats the charge controller. Works great with my twp panels in series. 560 watts and about 70 volts in.

Ill have a better idea come camping season as I have just been doing driveway tests.

Ep ever discontinued that model. I dont know why. This is the new model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077HQPV1Y/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_6_w

Print | Close