Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Towing: HITCH WON'T RELEASE...UPDATE UPDATE..........

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Topic: HITCH WON'T RELEASE...UPDATE UPDATE..........

Posted By: joelyn on 12/28/17 06:11pm

OK got back from a short trip and went to unhook the trailer and I cannot get the hitch to release from the ball. I have had problems with another trailer but after bouncing and kicking it it would eventually release. This time I greased the ball and under the hitch before hooking up, drove home and would not release for nothing. just had to pull the pin and drive the truck away to disconnect, but as u can see the hitch ball still will not come out.
The hitch is a EQUILIZER SWAY CONTROL BRAND, IF THAT HELPS. PICTURE IS A LITTLE DISTORTED, WILL TRY TO REPOST IF IT WOULD HELP FIND A SOLUTION.

WHATS MY PROBLEM if anyone knows??????
thanks

[image]

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* This post was last edited 12/29/17 04:23pm by joelyn *

Posted By: jmtandem on 12/28/17 06:38pm

The hitch is binding. Drive forward and backward a half inch and you should feel it release. Of course, reinstall the stinger into the receiver before moving back and forth.

'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.

Posted By: guidry on 12/28/17 06:39pm

Trailer tires chocked good? Truck in neutral (make sure not on a Hill)? And use the jack to lift it off. If it doesn’t come off then you probably have a problem with the hitch.

Posted By: Itchey Feet on 12/28/17 07:01pm

Look @ hitch release lever, after it is flipped up it then needs to drop down. If it has dropped down then the wedge it pulls up on the back side of the ball is bound up. Sometime it is adjusted too tight. Back off the nut from underneath and it should come down but be careful as the hitch will drop and mash anything under it. JMHO

My feet are fine as long as they are traveling.

Posted By: cyntdon2010 on 12/28/17 07:18pm

Jump up and down on the bumper. its NOt ROCKET SCIENCE. gEEZ

IT'LL POP LOOSE

2010 lacrosse T.T 318 bhs 34 ft,blue ox-tow bar,2005 FORD F-150 larait super crew,Firestone ready rite-air bags lift kit

Posted By: jim1521 on 12/28/17 07:48pm

Look at his pic. The hitch is disconnected from the truck, so rocking the truck back and forth won't do squat. Do what Itchey Feet is suggesting. Disconnect/loosen anything attached to it. WATCH YOUR FINGERS AND TOES. A rubber mallet might also be your friend.

Can you move the shank at all, or is it totally frozen?

Posted By: joelyn on 12/28/17 09:19pm

cyntdon2010 wrote:

Jump up and down on the bumper. its NOt ROCKET SCIENCE. gEEZ

IT'LL POP LOOSE

jumped up and down on it kicked it, jumped some more, shook left to right and jumped some more up and down for almost a hour. and this is what I what I was left with... so I don't think thats the answer

Posted By: joelyn on 12/28/17 09:20pm

jim1521 wrote:

yes I can rotate the hitch left to right with no problem it just will not release the ball

Posted By: nineoaks2004 on 12/28/17 09:37pm

Mine does that once in a while, I found that if I chock the wheels in the rear then back up a hair it will force the hitch lock back and will then release from the truck. Drove me crazy the first time until I calmed down and thought the situation over and then did as I just said. Good luck and Happy Camping

By the time you learn the rules of life
You're to old to play the game

Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 12/28/17 10:52pm

It's hard to see what type of coupler you have but the 'wedge'/'latch'/'under jaw on underside is still tight against ball.

That wedge/latch/under jaw has to release (down or back) in order for ball to come out of coupler

[image]

Is it time for your medication or mine?

2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Posted By: eHoefler on 12/29/17 05:35am

Raise the lever and pull/slide it to the rear. You may have to place a jack under the hitch to remove the weight from the catch pawl.

2021 Ram Limited, 3500, Crew Cab, 1075FTPD of Torque!, Max Tow, Long bed, 4 x 4, Dually,
2006 40' Landmark Mt. Rushmore

Posted By: 2112 on 12/29/17 05:47am

Did you use Lucas Red N Tacky #2? That's some sticky stuff

2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens, PullRite SuperGlide 2700 15K
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Posted By: Dave H M on 12/29/17 06:26am

take a gander at old biscuit's pics and then apply itchy feet's advice.

Posted By: Lynnmor on 12/29/17 07:46am

In addition to using grease on the ball, oil the moving parts in the latch. If the parts are worn or rusted, you might be able to repair the coupler. Parts

Posted By: gmw photos on 12/29/17 09:14am

The ultimate solution to this struggle is to have your local trailer shop change out the coupler to a side latch style.
This is what my horse trailer has on it, very common on horse/stock/construction trailers

https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Trailer-Coupler/Bulldog/BD028499.html

Posted By: Ozlander on 12/29/17 09:23am

Side latch? That's a Bulldog latch, best one made, but takes a hammer to operate.

Ozlander

06 Yukon XL
2001 Trail-Lite 7253

Posted By: gmw photos on 12/29/17 09:41am

Ozlander wrote:

Side latch? That's a Bulldog latch, best one made, but takes a hammer to operate.

Well, Bulldog is a brand, but I hear you. I think sleeve-lock, or collar lock is the correct term for the style.

Hammer ? I've had three trailers with this style latch, and never had to use a hammer to open or close one, so I'm not sure what you are referring to ?

What I am saying is, they easily latch and unlatch.

Posted By: HTElectrical on 12/29/17 10:32am

Loosen the adjusting nut, and then take a very large flat head screwdriver and pry between the wedge and ball. Easy Peasy!!!

2007 Duramax, Cognito 7"-9" Lift,

Posted By: ppine on 12/29/17 10:42am

I currently have an older trailer with a sticky coupling. Soemtimes I have to take a screwdriver and tap the underjaw to free it up.

Posted By: JBarca on 12/29/17 03:37pm

joelyn wrote:

It would really help if we could see the rest of the ball coupler so we can tell the brand and style. From what little I can see, it could be a Shelby coupler or a Fulton and the latch inside is very different between the two.

I know this may be a silly question, but just asking. Is this the first few times you are using this trailer with the latch issues? Don't know if you had it for years or just acquired it. The reason I'm asking is how the latch works. My porior TT tricked me big time on how that latched worked, could not get it uncoupled for nothing. Once I figured it out, I can open it with one finger....

John & Cindy

2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver

2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)

Posted By: joelyn on 12/29/17 04:22pm

OK, may have found out my problem. Won't know for sure until our next trip.
Feel kind of foolish if this was the problem my whole time but maybe it will help someone else that might not know.
I went out with a screw driver as ppine and htelecric stated and i propped up the hitch and went underneath the ball and stuck the screw driver up there and wiggled it around. Well 2 things happened, one the ball dropped right out and 2 as i wiggled the driver i noticed that the handle on top moved also. well to my surprise I found out that once I lift that handle to disconnect I ALSO HAVE TO PUSH IT BACKWARDS WHICH RELEASES THE LATCH UNDERNEATH, (DUUUUHHHH) I NEVER KNEW THAT AND I WAS JUST PULLING THE HANDLE UP THINKING THAT THAT WAS RELEASING THE LATCH UNDERNEATH.
so I also tried it on my other trailer that would never release and that one also just slid back and released the latch.
So I feel kind of dumb but never towed a trailer and never really knew the proper hooking up. So for anyone out there that might have the same problem and has the same hitch that I do, u might try pushing that handle back once lifting it and hopefully will solve the problem.
Thank you all for help and suggestions and hopefully my problem will be solved.
thanks again.

Below is a picture of the hitch with a arrow pointing to the latch I am talking about...

[image]

* This post was edited 12/29/17 04:39pm by joelyn *

Posted By: DutchmenSport on 12/29/17 04:26pm

What's that red stuff on what looks like a metal rod in an O shape under the coupler and on top of the hitch head, right in front of the ball?

Posted By: DutchmenSport on 12/29/17 04:30pm

joelyn wrote:

OK, may have found out my problem. ...

Glad you figured it out!

Posted By: mich800 on 12/29/17 04:31pm

DutchmenSport wrote:

What's that red stuff on what looks like a metal rod in an O shape under the coupler and on top of the hitch head, right in front of the ball?

Are you talking about the grease?

Posted By: naturist on 12/29/17 05:01pm

Hey, glad you figured it out, and that all that was required was a dope slap and a wiggle of the handle. Those are the best solutions to any problem.

Posted By: DiskDoctr on 12/29/17 05:16pm

Tip: When hitching or disconnecting, be sure there isn't any backwards pressure on the hitch.

When connecting, I find it is best if the front of the hitch ball socket is just back a hair so that the weight of the trailer on the hitch will pull the hitch forwards just a tad as it drops into place.

Of course, make sure that top latch is pushed towards the back, there should be a small notch for it.

Unhitching, no back pressure, wheels blocked, lift the hitch a few inches so when the hitch releases, the unloaded back end of the tow vehicle will still sit below the hitch. The latch should be in the unlocked position BEFORE you lift the tongue (with jack). Yes, it may help to step on and bounce the TV bumper to jiggle loose.

BTW, OldBiscuit's pics are excellent!

Posted By: joelyn on 12/29/17 06:20pm

DutchmenSport wrote:

What's that red stuff on what looks like a metal rod in an O shape under the coupler and on top of the hitch head, right in front of the ball?

that is grease that I applied on the ball and hitch, a suggestion that was given to me..

Posted By: Hannibal on 12/29/17 06:53pm

That looks like the same coupler type we have on our Jayco except ours is inverted. When we brought the trailer home, I couldn't get it to release the ball. I fought with it for hours and finally found a small BB sized splatter of weld had fallen into the pivot point of the "yoke?" that holds the ball. Almost impossible to see. Just about as hard to fish out. Since then it's worked great.

2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Posted By: Walaby on 12/29/17 07:15pm

joelyn wrote:

I ALSO HAVE TO PUSH IT BACKWARDS WHICH RELEASES THE LATCH UNDERNEATH, (DUUUUHHHH)

Old Biscuit called it back on page 1.

Glad you got it figured out.

Kinda interesting you've been a member for 15 years but haven't towed a trailer before now? Are you a reformed motorhomer? If so, welcome to the best side (grin).

Mike

Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

Posted By: JBarca on 12/29/17 07:17pm

joelyn wrote:

OK, may have found out my problem. Won't know for sure until our next trip.

I found out that once I lift that handle to disconnect I ALSO HAVE TO PUSH IT BACKWARDS WHICH RELEASES THE LATCH UNDERNEATH, (DUUUUHHHH) I NEVER KNEW THAT AND I WAS JUST PULLING THE HANDLE UP THINKING THAT THAT WAS RELEASING THE LATCH UNDERNEATH.
so I also tried it on my other trailer that would never release and that one also just slid back and released the latch.

Ah yup!!!! That was why I was asking if this was maybe a new trailer and what the coupler looks like. This same coupler got me. I have towed many trailers before but not with this coupler until I bought a camper. That little lift hande slides back towards the trailer.... It will not pivot full up like other ball couplers.

We had a big discussion on this ball coupler a while ago. I made a cross section picture of how it works. See here

[image]

Glad you have it figured out now.

Hope this helps

John

Posted By: joelyn on 12/29/17 07:59pm

Walaby wrote:

joelyn wrote:

I ALSO HAVE TO PUSH IT BACKWARDS WHICH RELEASES THE LATCH UNDERNEATH, (DUUUUHHHH)

LOL, yes that is what we are. we had a motorhome for 16 years and just started to get to expensive to fix since things were starting to go. so we sold it and our toe jeep and got a truck and now we have TT. Miss the motorhome but kind of starting to like the TT now...
THANKS FOR THE WELCOME ABOARD..................

Posted By: joelyn on 12/29/17 08:07pm

JBarca wrote:

joelyn wrote:

Glad you have it figured out now.

Hope this helps

John

THATS EXACTLY WHAT i have. so by just pulling up on the release it was never letting go of the ball.
good illustration, THANKS.

Posted By: 36guy on 12/29/17 08:18pm

For you guys that like to grease the ball,remember that it's a double edged sword. Yes it lowers resistance between the hitch and ball, but the grease is also an attractant for dirt, and there's a lot of it thrown up off the ground by the truck and the wind created between the two vehicles.
Personally, I have never used grease in the forty odd years of pulling trailers and have yet to see any damage from it. Just food for thought.

Posted By: BenK on 12/29/17 09:14pm

Good to hear the OP has solved this and add for others and future reference

Below quote from an old comment and add...

Backing up moves the ball out of the front coupler hemisphere
...where it goes below the ball equator to keep the ball from moving down and out

The rear portion of the coupler dome has nothing to hole the ball except for the latch pawl.

Undoing the latch removes that interference to allow the ball to move backwards. Again, why backing up with the trailer tires blocked and unlatched allows the ball to come out of the front couple dome

This image shows one type of latch, but they all (most) look like this
[image]

This image is of the flat stop on top of most balls and is to allow the ball to move rear wards, out of the coupler dome capture area
[image]

HITCH BALL STUCK IN TRAILER TOUNGE

benk wrote:

Posted: 12/09/10 07:27pm

I've had a few experiences with this on various trailers.

First, you know how 'most' couplers work? That might help understand how/why it is
stuck

The forward portion of the coupler (towards the TV) is 'cupped' with the bottom
end of the 'round' complete enough to go 'underneath' the ball's lower hemisphere

Meaning it won't allow the coupler to move up and off of the ball.

The latch has a 'tang' or 'pawl' that goes underneath the rear of the ball.

This 'tang' or 'pawl' is most likely stuck and/or the ball is still 'up' against
the couple's 'cup'

The latch should have an adjustment to tighten or loosen that 'tang'/'pawl'. If
you haven't, try squirting some sort of frozen bolt whatever into that.

Finally, I'd just take the balls nut off and then work on it

-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Posted By: Dave H M on 12/30/17 06:59am

Cool thanks for the post back.

Posted By: ken56 on 12/30/17 12:15pm

Don't feel too embarrassed because you are not the first person to have that issue. I was at a CG near Myrtle Beach and some people pulled into the site next to us and he starts to disconnect and I see him yanking and tugging to get the trailer to let go of the ball. I stepped over and asked if he needed some help......said they had borrowed the trailer and he did not know how to get it to let go. I showed him how the latch worked and I could see he was s little embarrassed because it was so simple. Told him How should he know if he was not shown and told him if he had any other questions to just ask, no problem. It gets easier as it goes...

Posted By: Bipeflier on 12/30/17 12:37pm

36guy wrote:

Bulldog hitches recommend greasing the ball pocket. See under MAINTENANCE Bulldog Instructions

2010 Cruiser CF30SK Patriot
2016 3500 Duramax
1950 Right Hand Seat GPS (she tells me where to go)

Posted By: DiskDoctr on 12/30/17 05:34pm

ken56 wrote:

Don't feel too embarrassed because you are not the first person to have that issue.

Truth! How do you think we all KNOW and even have a favorite way to do it? Been there, done that! Now pass it on [emoticon]

Posted By: joelyn on 01/02/18 12:59am

Thanks to all for ur help and suggestions and comments. Always come to the right place to get my questions answered and other suggestions.
THANKS

Posted By: NJRVer on 01/03/18 04:15pm

I have that same latch on my new cargo trailer,
It has stuck twice.
Each time was when the temps dropped big time after a snow or rain. moisture on it froze and that kept it from releasing,
Take a hammer and tap lightly to push the latch back in the direction it would normally be going.
Would actually see little ice pieces fall out as I did it.

Posted By: joelyn on 01/03/18 05:17pm

NJRVer wrote:

Good suggestion also, I bet u better keep that hammer handy this week from what I see on the weather reports out here u guys are in for some dosey of a cold spell... It was a lil chilly here today, only a high of 68, lol. JUST KIDDING, I am from JOYSEY and know how cold it can get. GOOD LUCK.

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