2019 Grand Design Solitude 384GK 5th wheel. Glen Allen, VA
smlranger wrote:
Magnum Energy. One of the best made and the company provides outstanding technical support.
Magnum Energy. One of the best made and the company provides outstanding technical support.
X10 I have one, works perfect. and easy to install.
2000 Newmar mountain aire 4081 DP, ISC/350 Allison 6 speed, Wrangler JL toad.
FMCA member
As for inverters I have and recommend GoPower brand. Seems better than Xantrex anyway. Just get a stand alone inverter for the power level you need. Separate transfer switch or switches as needed for your install.
When something goes wrong it is far easier to know what it is and only replace what has failed.
If 'best' means lowest price you are on your own.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
I just bumped into a company (Samlex) that makes a very interesting inverter/charger. It is interesting because not only does it have a built in transfer switch, but it can accept shore power or generator power (with the capability to start the generator if the batteries are low) AND output from your solar charge controller.
This company has been in the inverter business for a number of years, but I think their inverter/chargers have only been available for a few years.
I have a hybrid Magnum inverter/charger. If I were to replace it I'd go to Victron. I use the load support feature almost all the time. When I had stand alone inverter and converter I enabled double conversion any time there was only a 15 amp shore power supply.
The other company I would consider is Outback.
My typical plug in configuration is shore power-->autoformer-->inverter/charger (with load support)-->RV power system.
I "dial down" to 80% of what ever shore power I have, so a 15 I draw 12, 30 I draw 24 and 50 I draw 40 from one leg and 30 from the other.
On generator power I "dial down" to 23 amps.
Best price on the Magnum is from Imarine.
* This post was edited 12/03/17 07:30am by pianotuna *
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
cm2785 wrote:
Hey guys I have a 96 Bounder 34j and it has an Intelli Power PD9055 converter. I was told some of these converters give dirty power and I have a brand new Winegard video in motion satellite and another grand in Wifi and cell antennas/boosters.. plus my computers. I would like to replace the converter for a pure sine wave inverter charger but there are so many out there and most on Amazon have some pretty disappointing one star reviews... can someone tell me the best one to buy? I want to protect my expensive toys. Thanks!
Hey guys I have a 96 Bounder 34j and it has an Intelli Power PD9055 converter. I was told some of these converters give dirty power and I have a brand new Winegard video in motion satellite and another grand in Wifi and cell antennas/boosters.. plus my computers. I would like to replace the converter for a pure sine wave inverter charger but there are so many out there and most on Amazon have some pretty disappointing one star reviews... can someone tell me the best one to buy? I want to protect my expensive toys. Thanks!
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
jerseyjim wrote:
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
why not? (space heater)
jerseyjim wrote:
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
Great example of separate components. Bypass or replace just what fails and get on down the road.
time2roll wrote:
Great example of separate components. Bypass or replace just what fails and get on down the road.
jerseyjim wrote:
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
Great example of separate components. Bypass or replace just what fails and get on down the road.
yeh but op wants to upgrade his entire system
gutfelt wrote:
why not? (space heater)
jerseyjim wrote:
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
My original CONverter (2001) was a Magnatek...2 years ago I found it to be getting "weak", and bought a Parallax 55 Amp unit. Easy/fast install. So far, so good. Something like 200 bucks. (the difference in size and weight from 2001) is amazing).
My INverter crapped out this past summer. It "controlled" 4-5 outlets. No power to them. Having never used the INverter for anything (since 2001) I pulled it out and bypassed it. All I have to remember is not to put anything with a high draw (like a space heater) on that circuit. No biggie.
why not? (space heater)
Just guessing
By pass not 12 guage wire
Entertainment is on that circuit does not want it to trip breaker and shut down
OEM circuit is low amp, maybe 10 amp breaker small guage wire
Was not a large inverter
Inverter charger, replaced with converter, bypassed the pass thru
Converter is on circuit charging batteries, so no added large loads like heater
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s
gutfelt wrote:
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
gutfelt wrote:
why not? (space heater)
May have another load like converter or fridge.
why not? (space heater)
I have a Prosine 2.0 now dead, awaiting a chance to repair it later.
I also have a Progressive Dynamics 9180, with optional charge wizard (Makes it the same as a 9280 with optional dongle)
I use the Wizard controlled cause I like the charge algorithm better.
BUT.. The 9180+ is a plug in model. and occsionally the pulg comes out, I usually figure it out long about 3am. And then CLICK. the Prosine does the job
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
pianotuna wrote:
Aims has a poor reputation.
Aims has a poor reputation.
gutfelt wrote:
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
according to who? its a pretty nice looking unit for a small price if I had a 1996 MH I would take a chance on such
time2roll wrote:
gutfelt wrote:
why not? (space heater)
May have another load like converter or fridge.why not? (space heater)
doubt it when I read his post he makes it sound like(to me) that it was fine when it was running through the inverter(space heater) but some reason its not after removing inverter so that why I asked why
gutfelt wrote:
its a pretty nice looking unit for a small price if I had a 1996 MH I would take a chance on such
The OP is asking for the 'best' and said he has no problem paying. He's not looking for cheap.
its a pretty nice looking unit for a small price if I had a 1996 MH I would take a chance on such
cm2785 wrote:
but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
No. It's very easy to simply hard-wire it to your coach's AC panel just as your shore cord is. Done, and done. Entire coach is now on inverter.
but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
cm2785 wrote:
Thanks guys I’m looking at the Magnum and while it’s going to be a $2500 investment it seems to be a great unit for my electronics but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired? I’m in Los Angeles and need to find someone who is good at installing these.
I assume 50 amp RV. Magnum seems to have a two pole 30 amp switch so you cannot really wire the whole RV without a separate 50 amp two pole switch. Thanks guys I’m looking at the Magnum and while it’s going to be a $2500 investment it seems to be a great unit for my electronics but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired? I’m in Los Angeles and need to find someone who is good at installing these.
You can use 2x 30 amp switch in parallel (for 60a rating) to power one side of the 50 amp panel. Then swap inverter loads to that side and non inverter loads to the other side. If the balance does not seem to work well you can also do a subpanel. Otherwise you can wire the inverter the way it will work best for you however you need a plan so it can be set up correctly.
2oldman wrote:
cm2785 wrote:
but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
No. It's very easy to simply hard-wire it to your coach's AC panel just as your shore cord is. Done, and done. Entire coach is now on inverter.but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
To elaborate
Hard wiring to the panel includes another ATS
If going directly to the breaker panel
Or the built in pass thru, when going inline with shore power
Input
You cannot have shore power, or generator power back feeding into the output side of the inverter, very bad for the inverter
MrWizard wrote:
To elaborate
Hard wiring to the panel includes another ATS
If going directly to the breaker panel
Or the built in pass thru, when going inline with shore power
Input
You cannot have shore power, or generator power back feeding into the output side of the inverter, very bad for the inverter
2oldman wrote:
cm2785 wrote:
but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
No. It's very easy to simply hard-wire it to your coach's AC panel just as your shore cord is. Done, and done. Entire coach is now on inverter.but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
To elaborate
Hard wiring to the panel includes another ATS
If going directly to the breaker panel
Or the built in pass thru, when going inline with shore power
Input
You cannot have shore power, or generator power back feeding into the output side of the inverter, very bad for the inverter
This is why I need to hire an expert to wire it.. I don’t want any problems when connecting to shore or gen.
cm2785 wrote:
I’m on a 30amp system in my rig
Still need to know what circuits you want powered.I’m on a 30amp system in my rig
I suspect:
1) GFI outlets
2) Other outlets
3) Microwave
Two branches is easy as it has a two pole transfer switch. Three may require a third switch or a sub-panel.
Your existing converter would be disabled. And the absorption fridge may need to be moved off the GFI branch circuit or wired before the inverter.
I assume no air conditioning or electric water heat. But you could easily just power the whole panel and remember to turn things off or switch to propane as needed.
BTW I recommend 6+ batteries to drive this thing. Might get by with 4 with light use or AGM.
cm2785 wrote:
This is why I need to hire an expert to wire it.. I don’t want any problems when connecting to shore or gen.
That's fine, but an 'expert' will probably try to make it as expensive as possible, meaning installing perhaps a sub-panel and only selected outlets being inverted. That will convince you you're being "safe", and according to some on here, you are. The problem comes if you ever have to sell the coach and try to remove the IC and put all the wiring back the way it was. Kind of a problem. This is why I need to hire an expert to wire it.. I don’t want any problems when connecting to shore or gen.
If you tell your installer to do what I said, it'll be connected to everything, just like shore. Removal is also a snap.
It's your choice.
* This post was edited 12/03/17 03:17pm by 2oldman *
cm2785 wrote:
I’m on a 30amp system in my rig
I’m on a 30amp system in my rig
ahh that's a lot simpler than the dual 50 amp systems most have
that's easier to wire direct at main panel
Then wire a 30 amp outlet and power that from the inverter. Plug in the shore power cord.
Manually set the fridge to propane. Unplug the converter. Done!
Since you are considering the Magnum, be aware it does not "like" some shore power gfi outlets. The best price may be at Imarine.
As I said earlier, I have the 3012 Magnum. If it fails I will move to Victron.
cm2785 wrote:
I’m on a 30amp system in my rig
I’m on a 30amp system in my rig
Samlex has a solid reputation but I haven't installed very many of them.
Xantrex makes some nice home type units but I don't have much experience with their RV line.
Anything else: GoPower, AIMS, etc I would stay away from simply because their are better choices.
So long as you do not switch under load the transfer switch will be fine. Switching under load causes arcing. Eventually the contacts burn enough that they don't conduct. Oversizing from the point of view of amperage is a good idea.
cm2785 wrote:
Thanks guys, I’m glad to hear! And I won’t have any issues with the shore or generator and my rigs current transfer switch? I’ll also be adding the remote panel of course.
Thanks guys, I’m glad to hear! And I won’t have any issues with the shore or generator and my rigs current transfer switch? I’ll also be adding the remote panel of course.
2oldman wrote:
cm2785 wrote:
but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
No. It's very easy to simply hard-wire it to your coach's AC panel just as your shore cord is. Done, and done. Entire coach is now on inverter.but would that unit require the whole rig to be rewired?.
No need to re-wire the coach. The Magnum inverter can be wired to the existing inverter DC wiring. The AC can also use the existing AC wiring. The Magnum inverters have an internal transfer switch. The only choice you need to make is if you want to add circuits to the inverter.
msturtz wrote:
No need to re-wire the coach. The Magnum inverter can be wired to the existing inverter DC wiring. The AC can also use the existing AC wiring. The Magnum inverters have an internal transfer switch. The only choice you need to make is if you want to add circuits to the inverter.
No need to re-wire the coach. The Magnum inverter can be wired to the existing inverter DC wiring. The AC can also use the existing AC wiring. The Magnum inverters have an internal transfer switch. The only choice you need to make is if you want to add circuits to the inverter.
That's what I'd do. easy peasy.
pianotuna wrote:
Aims has a poor reputation.
Aims has a poor reputation.
gutfelt wrote:
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
heres what I would go with
http://www.aimscorp.net/2000-Watt-Pure-Sine-Inverter-Charger.html
I concur with pianotuna, but boy is that an attractive price ! If you buy an AIMS you had better be dealing with a distributor that will stand behind the warranty,
MR.WIZARD has the answer.
jerseyjim wrote:
GUTFELT: Even with the INverter installed,(like brand new) I found out in a helluva hurry that that circuit could not take something like a space heater. The little white button (breaker) on the INverter would pop. There went the entertainment center, 2 front outlets and, believe it or not, both bedroom outlets. Why the mfr.(NationalRV) set things up like that is beyond me. But...my problem solved.
MR.WIZARD has the answer.
GUTFELT: Even with the INverter installed,(like brand new) I found out in a helluva hurry that that circuit could not take something like a space heater. The little white button (breaker) on the INverter would pop. There went the entertainment center, 2 front outlets and, believe it or not, both bedroom outlets. Why the mfr.(NationalRV) set things up like that is beyond me. But...my problem solved.
MR.WIZARD has the answer.
It depends on what model inverter. My MS2000 can take a space heater. That said I would not do it because it would drain my batteries very quickly.
* This post was edited 12/04/17 11:28pm by msturtz *
Here is the thread: Wiring auto transfer switch, batteries, converter, inverter, etc
We ended up wiring it all like this:
![[image]](http://www.diskdoctor.us/camper/cougar304bhs/Cougar%20304BHS%20Wiring%20Diagram_5.png)
We can use all our 30 amp on shore power or generator or inverter...up to each of their rating (ie inverter is only 12-15amps), and we can use it ANYWHERE in our rig. Need more power for something, turn something else off
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/wink.gif "wink")
Also ties in nicely with our upgraded converter/charger and new FOUR 6v GC battery setup.
I believe that thread has all the components we used and the sources, including the automatic transfer switch (ATS).
A lot of smart folks helped me come up with that setup, you might find their comments helpful, too
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")