I previously owned an older trailer; I'll admit didn't take care of as much as I should've and took a loss on it to sell it.
I did maintain the roof by filling cracks with self leveling dicor is all.
I don't want to make that same mistake again so before winterizing the trailer in the next two weeks what are the best maintenance item to review?
For example, the places where the corner molding is attached and old caulking is cracked on the outside of it should be scraped off and replaced??
![[image]](http://i68.tinypic.com/2mcfswy.jpg)
* This post was edited 10/16/17 07:49pm by nwbearcat1998 *
And please resize your pics to the forums requried 640480.
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You're to old to play the game
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB
2015 Ram 3500 Dually
Sundowner 2286GM Pro-Grade Toyhauler
Wild Card wrote:
Most mfg use silicone or a siliconized caulk. Make sure you do the propper prep before applying new.
Most mfg use silicone or a siliconized caulk. Make sure you do the propper prep before applying new.
I've been watching and reading and plan on scraping with a non maring tool and then using goo gone to remove residue before applying new.
Any other tips??
* This post was edited 10/17/17 07:55am by ken56 *
Generally I leave it alone. My mom used to say (If you pick it; it will never heal).
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Fortunately nothing leaks so far.
As you can ell there are much better sealants available now.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.
Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.
For vertical items on trailer side walls such as windows, handles, vents, etc....use the Geocel Proflex RV as already mentioned
Just clean up/remove any loose/dried out pieces and apply sealants as recommended by manufacturer
2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
Equal-i-zer 10K
Wild Card wrote:
Most mfg use silicone or a siliconized caulk. Make sure you do the propper prep before applying new.
Most mfg use silicone or a siliconized caulk. Make sure you do the propper prep before applying new.
What's the best way to clean off the old stuff?? Scrape with a plastic razor blade??
Please see picture posted earlier and zoom in to determine if silicone??
The ProFlex that is clear LOOKS like silicone when cured but it is not silicone. You are going to have a couple of different tubes of sealant around, one for the roof seams (EDPM,TPO compatible) and one for side pannels, non sagging for verticle seams. Your RV parts dealer can direct you to the proper stuff if you ask them.
1994 GMC Suburban K1500
2005 Trail Cruiser TC26QBC
1965 CHEVY VAN, 292 "Big Block 6" (will still tow)
2008 HHR
L(Larry)V(Vicki)J(Jennifer)J(Jesse)J(Jason)
Proflex RV or any of the other Geocel polymer sealants will take days to dry in typical ambient conditions. After drying, the polymer sealants are impervious to dirt and dust. Sikaflex, AFAIK, is a urethane sealant. It cures in the presence of water vapor. It dries much faster than the tripolymer sealants, has less flex, and less adhesion.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
After further inspection today I can push against the side of the trailer and see the gaps where the front trim is not connected so I'm going to order some proflex online and use a plastic razor along with some acetone and get the gaps sealed this weekend
Is this a major issue I should be worried about??
![[image]](http://i65.tinypic.com/204nr7.jpg)
westend wrote:
3M Caulk Remover will soften and loosen any silicone caulk. Follow up with a rag and a solvent or very strong butyl soap. Usually, I will apply the caulk remover and cover with plastic wrap to sit over-night. The next day, the remaining caulk can be removed with a rag or plastic tool.
3M Caulk Remover will soften and loosen any silicone caulk. Follow up with a rag and a solvent or very strong butyl soap. Usually, I will apply the caulk remover and cover with plastic wrap to sit over-night. The next day, the remaining caulk can be removed with a rag or plastic tool.
Hi Westend,
Will the 3M caulk remover soften and lift paint on aluminum or fiberglass surfaces? Or even rubber roofing for that matter
Thanks
John
John & Cindy
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver
2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)
nwbearcat1998 wrote:
Thanks everyone for the help. I called around the local RV shops today and I was somewhat surprised how they all said that they just use straight silicone to seal the corner trim pieces.
After further inspection today I can push against the side of the trailer and see the gaps where the front trim is not connected so I'm going to order some proflex online and use a plastic razor along with some acetone and get the gaps sealed this weekend
Is this a major issue I should be worried about??
Thanks everyone for the help. I called around the local RV shops today and I was somewhat surprised how they all said that they just use straight silicone to seal the corner trim pieces.
After further inspection today I can push against the side of the trailer and see the gaps where the front trim is not connected so I'm going to order some proflex online and use a plastic razor along with some acetone and get the gaps sealed this weekend
Is this a major issue I should be worried about??
Hopefully, there is sufficient butyl tape under the trim to prevent any major water intrusion. I have had the same situation and I cleaned the silicone off, then put a bead of Lexel in the joint. So far, the Lexel has remained adhered and flexible.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch
JBarca wrote:
Hi Westend,
Will the 3M caulk remover soften and lift paint on aluminum or fiberglass surfaces? Or even rubber roofing for that matter
Thanks
John
westend wrote:
3M Caulk Remover will soften and loosen any silicone caulk. Follow up with a rag and a solvent or very strong butyl soap. Usually, I will apply the caulk remover and cover with plastic wrap to sit over-night. The next day, the remaining caulk can be removed with a rag or plastic tool.
3M Caulk Remover will soften and loosen any silicone caulk. Follow up with a rag and a solvent or very strong butyl soap. Usually, I will apply the caulk remover and cover with plastic wrap to sit over-night. The next day, the remaining caulk can be removed with a rag or plastic tool.
Hi Westend,
Will the 3M caulk remover soften and lift paint on aluminum or fiberglass surfaces? Or even rubber roofing for that matter
Thanks
John
John,
I've not had a problem with the 3M caulk remover lifting or dissolving paint. I haven't used it on EPDM. A research of the material safety data sheets would turn up any petroleum distillates in it's formula (although I don't believe there are any).
In it's most typical use, as a remover in baths and kitchens, I haven't seen any deleterious effects on interior latex paint. On my own RV, I used it without bad effects over the factory paint and over new DTM primer. It only softened the caulk.
As with all anecdotal information, use caution and research. I'd hate to be the guy that recommended the product and your $100K RV now needs a paint job. I'd certainly not use it on top of decals and graphics. I'd bet it is close to the same product used to soften those for removal.
The caulk remover shines when softening beads of silicone caulk. It makes it virtually painless to remove a bead. In some parts of my day-to-day work, I remove old caulk on exterior residential siding. Typically, that is done mechanically as we are concerned about time and it is done with a variety of scrapers prior to repaint.
Basically, John, if my BMW had a bead of silicone on it, I wouldn't be afraid of using the caulk remover.
ken56 wrote:
No silicone on your trailer.
No silicone on your trailer.
If it's a Keystone it very well could have Tremco Trempro 645, a neutral cure silicone.
There is a misconception on RV forums about silicone sealants. There are plenty of great silicone sealants that will go up against anything in the adhesion, flexibility, and longevity columns. You wont find them at ACE or the big boxes. Proper preparation is the key with them like anything else, as is a neutral cure product opposed to an acetic cure.
Tremco Trempro 645, Dow Corning 790, GE Silglaze II, CRL 95C, are all great silicone sealants.
Geocel Proflex RV or 2300 (not silicone) are also great and used a lot by Forest River. They are however hard to work with.
along with some Lexel and I plan on working on this tomorrow or Sunday.
I will post a review of how well the ORANGE-SOL 10022 Contractor Solvent works.
westend wrote:
John,
I've not had a problem with the 3M caulk remover lifting or dissolving paint. I haven't used it on EPDM.
Snip....
Basically, John, if my BMW had a bead of silicone on it, I wouldn't be afraid of using the caulk remover.
John,
I've not had a problem with the 3M caulk remover lifting or dissolving paint. I haven't used it on EPDM.
Snip....
Basically, John, if my BMW had a bead of silicone on it, I wouldn't be afraid of using the caulk remover.
Thanks a million Westend.
John
LVJJJ wrote:
Have used ProFlex for years but don't like that ProFlex seems to attract a lot of dirt and always looks dirty. I have switched to Sikaflex 221. It goes on smoother, lays down better and is easier to smooth out with paint-thinner-covered-finger. It's also staying put over formerly silicone areas.
Have used ProFlex for years but don't like that ProFlex seems to attract a lot of dirt and always looks dirty. I have switched to Sikaflex 221. It goes on smoother, lays down better and is easier to smooth out with paint-thinner-covered-finger. It's also staying put over formerly silicone areas.
Sikaflex is good stuff. Their construction sealant is great to have around the house as well.
2013 Arctic Fox 25P
2010 Dodge 3500 SRW CTD
I ended up finding some proflex sealant online and got it shipped much faster than expected
![[image]](http://i67.tinypic.com/x3slsg.jpg)
Remove loose pieces, scrape out with dull scraper, clean, and apply ProFlex bead and be sure it gets into the gaps. I use my finger to pressure sealant into areas being caulked.
The picture above is the after.
2022 Ford F-350 7.3l
2002 Chevy Silverado 1500HD 6.0l 268k miles (retired)
2016 Heritage Glen 29BH
2003 Flagstaff 228D Pop Up
wowens79 wrote:
Another tip, they sell these rubber caulk tools that are like a pointed squeegee. They are great for smoothing and removing excess caulk. I've never used one with the proflex, but I've used them alot in our bathroom with silicone, and they work great. I'll be trying it with proflex on the TT this weekend, and I'll try to remember to report back.
Another tip, they sell these rubber caulk tools that are like a pointed squeegee. They are great for smoothing and removing excess caulk. I've never used one with the proflex, but I've used them alot in our bathroom with silicone, and they work great. I'll be trying it with proflex on the TT this weekend, and I'll try to remember to report back.
proflex is a great caulk. I have had bad luck with clear...it just is worthless. Use Black or White. I found out the clear is the only one allowed for use in California...that should tell you something...this is on Geocells website.
However...using the plastic tools is not going to work for you. Become a master of a good controlled bead and a soapy finger to finish. Soapy finger does a much nicer job and you can clean any over caulk with mineral spirits. I have also used blue painters tape to give nice edges around stuff. You have been advised
nwbearcat1998 wrote:
Is there anything wrong with the caulking job I did other then cosmetically not pleasing??
If you have the joint filled, that's all that is required. The durability may suffer if the sealant is thin but these polymer sealants are very tough.
Is there anything wrong with the caulking job I did other then cosmetically not pleasing??
Quote:
proflex is a great caulk. I have had bad luck with clear...it just is worthless. Use Black or White. I found out the clear is the only one allowed for use in California...that should tell you something...this is on Geocells website.
When searching the SDS and PDS of the various Geocel Proflex sealants, I get the same .pdf caution sheets for all colors of their Proflex products. Maybe they have changed the formulation recently.proflex is a great caulk. I have had bad luck with clear...it just is worthless. Use Black or White. I found out the clear is the only one allowed for use in California...that should tell you something...this is on Geocells website.
Typically, the CA use cautions relate to that list of chemicals that CA has found to induce cancer. That may be the benzene ethylate or other solvents used in the formulation.
FWIW, I've used Geocel's 2300 series of sealants, almost exclusively the clear formula, and the stuff sticks like no tomorrow. Geocel also makes other polymer sealants for truck and trailer construction and I'd bet those are good, too.
Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear RV Flexible Sealant
There are a couple of downsides to the product. First, like most urethane products, it is a real mess on the hands and work surfaces. Second, it also takes a while to cure (moisture cure). Areas with low humidity may need a couple of light mists of water. The joints need to be mask with painters tape prior to application.
I still use Dicor products when it comes to the roof.
2021 Entegra Odyssey 24B Class C on Ford E-450 Chassis with 7.3L V8
bobndot wrote:
Agree with ken56, the 'Proflex RV' also comes in 'brite white' which does not yellow like I found using the regular 'white' but using clear is fine.
Where can you get this?
Agree with ken56, the 'Proflex RV' also comes in 'brite white' which does not yellow like I found using the regular 'white' but using clear is fine.
Experience without good judgment is worthless; good judgment without experience is still good judgment!
2018 RAM 3500 Big Horn CTD
2018 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
I got it from Amazon, see link above.