Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Scary: footplate slipped out of position!

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Topic: Scary: footplate slipped out of position!

Posted By: jjjandrbaker on 08/15/17 09:50pm

I almost had a major disaster. It certainly put me into panic mode! I've been using a 10" stack of stabilizer pads under the tongue jack landing gear, ever since I got this camper. It takes forever for the foot plate to reach the ground. Someone told me to use the stack to shorten the distance that the motor has to drop it. I have had no problems. This time, everything went as usual. I brought the jack down with the foot plate in the center of the stack, unhitched, and pulled the truck forward. Then I was ready to level the camper from front to back. I went inside to check my level, came back to the tongue jack, started to lower the front end and noticed that the landing gear had slid, and close to half of the foot plate was hanging off the edge of the damned stack of pads! I knew I had to get the trailer back on the hitch STAT! But, when I pushed the button to raise the receiver high enough to go on the hitch ball, the foot plate slid some more! I got in the truck and backed it up, but I was so panicked I had to pull forward and try again about three times. I finally made myself calm down and do it right. I got it on the hitch, took that **** stack away, and brought the tongue jack foot plate down on a small board I keep for leveling. Disaster averted. I really don't know what would have happened if it totally fell off the support stack, but it couldn't be good!

Jim Baker
San Antonio, TX
travel blog and photos

Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 08/15/17 10:01pm

Probably would have bent the tongue jack

You do use WHEEL CHOCKS ---correct?

First ON...last OFF

So trailer can NOT move

Is it time for your medication or mine?

2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

Posted By: carringb on 08/15/17 10:08pm

X2. Always chock the trailer wheels.

2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST

Posted By: byronlj on 08/15/17 10:23pm

I had a friend that used to put his 5th wheel landing gear on 14" blocks. I kept warning him but he continued until this one boondocking trip. The terrain was not level at all. Four days of camping finally caused one side to slip off and the other to flip sideways. It was sitting so low he couldn't get it to lift high enough to hitch up because his leg extensions were fully retracted. Luckily, I had two bottle jacks to pick it up. We used those blocks for firewood before we left.
Dave

byronlj
2013 Dynamax Trilogy 3800RL

Posted By: azrving on 08/15/17 10:30pm

.

* This post was edited 08/19/17 05:20pm by an administrator/moderator *

Posted By: SoundGuy on 08/16/17 05:05am

The scenario described can't happen IF the trailer is properly chocked. This is why I use the weight of the trailer bearing down on a set of wheel pads to absolutely prevent my trailer from shifting on my significantly sloped driveway which also requires an 18" stack under the tongue jack to level the trailer.

[image]

Recently I got lazy and thought I'd forgo the pads and just stick a set of Fastway One-Step Chocks between the tires but when I came out later I later discovered the trailer had shifted forward, just slightly but also just enough to tip the tongue jack stack. Like the OP I was shocked, but also lucky because if it had slipped completely the tongue would have dropped about 3' and unquestionably have bent. [emoticon]

When camping I use Lynx blocks mounted to a wood base plate for side-to-side leveling and a set of rubber chocks secured with hardwood spacers between each set of tires which absolutely prevent the trailer from shifting in either direction regardless of site slope.

[image]

And FWIW, I always use a 4x stack under the tongue jack when camping, only replacing it with a single piece of 3/4" plywood when the trailer is sitting on a tongue low site.

[image]

Properly chocked, there's no reason to not use a stack of any height under the tongue jack. [emoticon]

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Posted By: Atlee on 08/16/17 06:04am

How did it move with the wheel chocks in place?

jjjandrbaker wrote:

Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

Posted By: bstar1952 on 08/16/17 06:07am

Happened to me last year, stupidly didn't chock the wheels and TT completely fell off the block, about 8" high. Lucky for me there was no damage but it did scare the s**t out of me. Trust me, I will never ever not use chocks before unhitching.

Bstar1952
Bandera, Texas
2020 Ram 2500,6.4 Hemi
2019 (East to West) Della Terra 29KRK
Fastway E2 WHD Hitch

Posted By: Iraqvet05 on 08/16/17 06:30am

I had something similar happening to me. I chocked one side but not the other and the TT rotated and fell 8" off the tongue block. Since then, I made the point of unhooking the chains after I level and routed a recess in my tongue block so the landing leg sits in the block. I might invest in a flip foot one day.

2017 Ford F-250 6.2 gas
2018 Jayco 28BHBE

US Army veteran

Posted By: Hannibal on 08/16/17 06:33am

I learned about 24 years ago just how little incline it takes to roll a trailer. A root about 4" behind the left rear tire kept our 18.5 Aljo TT from rolling into the woods. I've used chocks ever since.
Now I need to go get some black enamal paint for my wood blocks. That looks nice!

2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Posted By: BubbaChris on 08/16/17 07:57am

Another factor is if you have side-to-side pressure from having to turn as you're putting the trailer into position. So when the tongue pops off the ball, the trailer will want to shift sideways. We mitigate this by pulling the rig back and forth in a straight line (as much as possible) a few times before unhitching.

Now if we're concerned at all, we'll partially deploy the front stabilizers as part of the process. That way if the jack slips/adjusts in a bad way, the stabilizers will slow or prevent a complete fall.

Best regards,
Chris

2013 Heartland North Trail 22 FBS Caliber Edition
2013 Ford Expedition EL with Tow Package

Posted By: jjjandrbaker on 08/16/17 09:28am

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Probably would have bent the tongue jack

You do use WHEEL CHOCKS ---correct?

First ON...last OFF

So trailer can NOT move

I thought they were firmly in place. Now, I'm not so sure. One side had to of been loose to allow a side to side shift. Stupid mistake!

* This post was edited 08/16/17 09:34am by jjjandrbaker *

Posted By: jjjandrbaker on 08/16/17 09:31am

After reading all the posts, I'm starting to doubt that the chocks were as firmly in place as I thought. I'm going to have to be a lot more careful next time. Thanks for all your comments.

Posted By: Bobbo on 08/16/17 09:39am

I have 2 pair of these chocks. Properly adjust them one time, and they can't ever be loose.

[image]

Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

Posted By: wnjj on 08/16/17 09:55am

After placing the chocks, back the trailer just a bit more to put pressure on them before uncoupling.

Posted By: Campfire Time on 08/16/17 10:06am

I have a different take on this. Of course yes, chock the wheels. I learned my lesson back when we had a pop-up and we had a site with an incline. The trailer rolled back off the platform for the tongue jack and started to go down the hill. Scared the daylights out of me. What stopped it was the tongue jack sinking into the ground. Good times.

But I find the notion of stacking 14" of boards or plastic widgets to be the equivalent of stacking 3 chairs to get something out of a high kitchen cabinet. A basic knowledge of physics should help in understanding what the potential issues are. Regardless of how well you are chocked it would only take a good wind storm to move the trailer enough to cause a problem, possibly bending the stabilizer jacks or causing frame damage. What would I really be saving by stacking boards that high? Two minutes of cranking the jack?

Chuck D.
“Adventure is just bad planning.” - Roald Amundsen
2013 Jayco X20E Hybrid
2016 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71 LTZ2
2008 GMC Sierra SLE1 Crew Cab Z71 (traded)

Posted By: wnjj on 08/16/17 10:42am

Blocks don't flex like a fully extended jack tube. Done properly, it makes for a more solid trailer.

Posted By: valhalla360 on 08/16/17 11:03am

2-4" of blocking to keep the jack out of the mud, fine. 10" or more, just not worth it.

If you need stabilization, put stabilizers on the corners.

(yes, block your wheels so the trailer doesn't roll away but that's a side issue).

Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Posted By: rbpru on 08/16/17 11:28am

I had a similar incident, when my TT slipped as the tongue cleared the ball and started scooting a couple 2x8s that were under the tongue jack down hill towards a pond. It only moved a couple of inches but it was a heart stopper for sure.
As you have learned and read, chock first then unhitch.

I am too old be scared like that. [emoticon]

Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Posted By: dodge guy on 08/16/17 11:42am

I too always load the chocks with the truck. this makes the trailer sit tight against the chocks. never had it move yet!

Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Posted By: jjjandrbaker on 08/16/17 11:58am

This is an example of what I like best about this forum. There are so many experienced people all willing to share tips, advice, and suggestions. I am going to use what was shared to create a better unhitching routine. Thanks again!

Posted By: Campfire Time on 08/16/17 12:05pm

wnjj wrote:

Blocks don't flex like a fully extended jack tube. Done properly, it makes for a more solid trailer.

OK, you'd have to prove that one to me. Unless the blocks are somehow locked together with bolts or something, they will slide against one another. Not very solid. And those plastic locking blocks don't count. Those will just snap when the weight is dragged against them.

Posted By: JIMNLIN on 08/16/17 12:08pm

Our new 1984 5th wheel trailer was blocked/ramped up on one side about 8-9"......which meant the truck had to be ramped on the same side. At that time I used blocks and those plastic chocks for the trailer that never stayed in place.
Well it was muddy and the truck slipped off its ramp. The hitch knocked the trailer off its blocks.
After that I dumped the plastic chocks and have used adjustable chocks between the tires since that time. Nothing slips now regardless of how muddy or how much the trailer is blocked.

"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

Posted By: wnjj on 08/16/17 12:38pm

Campfire Time wrote:

wnjj wrote:

Blocks don't flex like a fully extended jack tube. Done properly, it makes for a more solid trailer.

I'm not talking about preventing it from falling, just the wiggling you get walking around in it. You should never depend upon the jack for holding the trailer from rolling or preventing the tongue from sliding sideways. The "done properly" part means solid wheel chocks.

With weight on the blocks, they will not slide around but a jack will always have some slack to move. Better yet, use one solid block like an 8x8 or nail some 2x6's together.

Posted By: rbpru on 08/16/17 01:35pm

Chocks are designed to keep the wheels from rolling. Those little plastic one do a fine job, even if you drive over them a couple of times.

They may not hold a a Boeing 747 but they do just fine with a 25 ft Dutchmen.

Parking on a slope certainly requires a bit of extra attention.

Posted By: SoundGuy on 08/16/17 06:10pm

Bobbo wrote:

I have 2 pair of these. Properly adjust them one time, and they can't ever be loose.

Fastway OneStep chocks were exactly what I was using on my driveway when it DID shift. [emoticon]

Problem is, you can't just adjust them "one time" as the spread between adjacent tires varies according the surface on which those chocks are sitting and how much the tires may have sunk into the ground ... that's why the centre pin is a pin, not a bolt - to allow adjustment according to the site situation. More trouble that they're worth IMO and I have no plans to ever use them again. I'd still be using my infinitely adjustable BAL Standard Tire Locking Chocks if I could but even at their minimum spread they're just a bit too wide for my current trailer's axle spread. Too bad, they're FAR superior to the Fastway OneStep chocks.

[image]

Posted By: jim1521 on 08/16/17 06:40pm

I've been using these Aircraft rubber wheel chocks.on my boat trailer for many years. I chock them in front of the front wheel, and behind the back wheel of my tandem trailer. I'm doing the same thing on my GD 313RLTS. I have one set on curb side, and one set on street side.

[image]

Posted By: Gdetrailer on 08/16/17 08:13pm

wnjj wrote:

Campfire Time wrote:

wnjj wrote:

Blocks don't flex like a fully extended jack tube. Done properly, it makes for a more solid trailer.

I'm not talking about preventing it from falling, just the wiggling you get walking around in it. You should never depend upon the jack for holding the trailer from rolling or preventing the tongue from sliding sideways. The "done properly" part means solid wheel chocks.

With weight on the blocks, they will not slide around but a jack will always have some slack to move. Better yet, use one solid block like an 8x8 or nail some 2x6's together.

If you are feeling wiggle from the tongue jack being extended out you ARE doing something very wrong OR you have a seriously worn out jack and or badly designed jack.

Trailers WILL wiggle or move a slight bit, it IS the nature of the beast and trying to use bad methods like loose boards or excessive height to get rid of that is asking for trouble.

Excessive use of blocks/blocking under the tongue jack as the OP has found out IS a recipe for disaster.

The some of the pictures posted of the cobbled up "systems" folks are using really makes my skin crawl and literally makes me want to slap a few heads for using it.

IF you NEED more height from your tongue jack there ARE purpose made jacks which have built in quick extensions, that allow you to pull a pin and drop the jack foot.. Those are far more safe than a bunch of plastic legos or boards loosely stacked..

Posted By: Camper G on 08/17/17 03:47am

I'll share a quick story. Back when I was a lot younger I had a 1987 wilderness Yukon 25c, basement model. I had backed it in at locust lake state park and forgot to chock the wheels before uncoupling and removing the weight bars. Trailer came of the ball and rolled about 5' back where fortunately a tree stopped it.

My girlfriend at the time, now wife tried to grab the tongue jack to stop it till i yelled to let it go.

No damage, or injuries by God's grace, but scared the heck out of me. Needless to say, that's only happened once. Now I chock immediately and take them off right before I'm ready to pull out.

2017 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, 4x4, CCSB, 6.4L HEMI, Snow Chief, tow package.,1989 Skyline Layton model 75-2251.

Posted By: Camper G on 08/17/17 05:05am

As far as chocks go, i ordered a set of roto-chocks years ago and have never looked back. I have to park my rig on a slope and once I have the roto chocks tightened down, my camper does not move at all.

they were pricey, but Worth every Penny to me. I don't know if they are still made, I've had them at least 10+ yrs now.

Posted By: proxim2020 on 08/17/17 06:53am

jjjandrbaker wrote:

After reading all the posts, I'm starting to doubt that the chocks were as firmly in place as I thought. I'm going to have to be a lot more careful next time. Thanks for all your comments.

You're probably not looking for advice, but what I do is place chocks down then pull or back the trailer onto them slightly. I then set the brake on the truck, place the other set on the opposite side of the tires, and release the brakes to allow the tires to settle in this tight cradle. This also helps to calm the back and forth wiggling of the tire while you're in the trailer.

Posted By: BarneyS on 08/17/17 09:25am

Camper G wrote:

It is really a shame but RotoChocks are no longer available or made. Mine are about 12 years old also and I would not give them up for three times what they cost.
Barney

* This post was edited 08/17/17 09:31am by BarneyS *

2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

Posted By: Gdetrailer on 08/17/17 03:54pm

Folks, the problem has nothing to do with what type of chocks they were using or if they failed to use chocks..

The OP, jjjandrbaker wrote "I've been using a 10" stack of stabilizer pads under the tongue jack landing gear, ever since I got this camper.

It takes forever for the foot plate to reach the ground. Someone told me to use the stack to shorten the distance that the motor has to drop it.

I have had no problems.

This time, everything went as usual.

I brought the jack down with the foot plate in the center of the stack, unhitched, and pulled the truck forward. Then I was ready to level the camper from front to back.

I went inside to check my level, came back to the tongue jack, started to lower the front end and noticed that the landing gear had slid, and close to half of the foot plate was hanging off the edge of the damned stack of pads!"

I imagine the OP is doing something like Soundguy's pix

[image]

Which IS a HORIBLE IDEA since you are depending on not only the friction between all the blocking keeping things together but a very unstable high stack of small lumber which places the center of gravity very high on the stack..

There is no MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE JACK AND BLOCKS that can prevent that pile of lumber from tipping over!

Stacking lumber on perfect flat ground is a risky move and if the ground is slightly pitched the tongue can EASILY SLIDE to the lower side of the stack in a hurry.

You WANT a Jack Drop Leg Foot EXTENSION like this..

[image]

Found HERE for about $12

This extension FITS OVER the jack tube AND HAS A PIN THAT GOES THROUGH BOTH THE JACK AND THE FOOT EXTENSION TUBE pinning them mechanically together. The tube inside a tube also cannot shift out of place.

The OPs problem had less to do with how well the wheels were chocked or not but in the fact that using 10" of blocking makes for a poor unstable surface to put the tongue weight on with no direct connection other than the friction between the tongue jack foot and the wood surface.

Additionally there IS another device that folks should avoid, very badly designed cone like device..

[image]

That thing is another accident just waiting to happen!

Like I said before, if you can feel the wiggle of the tongue jack, you ARE doing something wrong in your setup.

You use your STABILIZERS to take out the movements, not the tongue jack!

Chock wheels before disconnecting, set your tongue height to level front to back then set your STABILIZERS to stop the wiggling..

Posted By: SoundGuy on 08/17/17 05:10pm

Gdetrailer wrote:

I imagine the OP is doing something like Soundguy's pix

Which IS a HORIBLE IDEA since you are depending on not only the friction between all the blocking keeping things together but a very unstable high stack of small lumber which places the center of gravity very high on the stack..

There is no MECHANICAL CONNECTION BETWEEN THE JACK AND BLOCKS that can prevent that pile of lumber from tipping over!

Yet again you're entirely incorrect. As I detailed earlier in another thread on this same subject my trailer's front tires, both curb side and street side, sit on wheel pads to which chocks are firmly attached, so I'm using the weight of the trailer itself to firmly lock the trailer in place. [emoticon]

There is NO forward pressure on the tongue jack - NONE - and therefore your assertion that this technique is a HORRIBLE IDEA is 100% incorrect. It's actually an excellent method of assuring my trailer is locked down firmly on my sloped driveway. Fact is, you simply don't know what you're talking about. [emoticon]

Posted By: Old-Biscuit on 08/17/17 05:14pm

SoundGuy wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

Details........it's all in the details [emoticon]

Posted By: Gdetrailer on 08/17/17 06:22pm

SoundGuy wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:

The OP IS NOT using your "chock"..

Makes YOUR "pile" under the tongue a HORRIBLE IDEA.

Your "system" while "ingenious" someday will get someone else KILLED if they fail to ensure the wheels cannot move.. But, they ARE wheels and wheels CAN move even when you think they can't.

I would not bet my life under that kind of cribbing, would you?

I suspect the OP was not using your chock "method" but WAS using a PILE OF LUMBER IN THE SAME FASHION as your photo, which illustrates what I suspect the OP has been doing..

Besides, why take such chances when there ARE CORRECT TOOLS for the job.. The correct tools are the foot extension I posted and it is no more expensive than all that lumber and plastic blocks you use.

At work, using a pile of lumber in your fashion to hold a large heavy object up would get you written up and fired for a major safety violation.. A pile of loose lumber stacked high is not a good tool, that pile gets easier to topple the higher it gets.

Would you personally use a loose pile of wood in your fashion to hold your vehicle up when working on it with no tires? Of course not (at least I hope).

I have a forklift license at work and own a tractor with a front loader at home, I would never consider putting my hands, feet or body under the forks, pallet or my tractor front loader without a very safe and SECURE cribbing THAT CAN'T TOPPLE OR SHIFT.. Nor would I consider your dry stack of loose lumber under the tongue.

Sure, you may get away with it for a long time, but down the road you have increased the chances of Mr Murphy crossing your path.

OP was visited by Mr Murphy and was very lucky to have out smarted him before the trailer slide off.. The tongue falling 10+ inches could have severely damage the trailer A frame or even the trailer frame to the point of it being scrapped..

An extremely costly mistake that CAN BE AVOIDED.

Why take such chances when you can get the proper jack foot extension..

Posted By: SoundGuy on 08/19/17 06:05am

Gdetrailer wrote:

The OP IS NOT using your "chock"..

Makes YOUR "pile" under the tongue a HORRIBLE IDEA.

BALONEY. From my FIRST post in this thread back on Page 1 I offered to the OP this comment ...

"The scenario described can't happen IF the trailer is properly chocked. This is why I use the weight of the trailer bearing down on a set of wheel pads to absolutely prevent my trailer from shifting on my significantly sloped driveway which also requires an 18" stack under the tongue jack to level the trailer."

The scary scenario the OP described was NOT due to the fact he had his tongue jack sitting on a stack but the fact that his trailer tires were not properly chocked. Chocking his trailer using a set of wheel pads - as I've detailed and illustrated with a pic - will absolutely prevent the trailer from shifting even a millimeter. Do this and one can use ANYTHING under the tongue jack, including a triple stack as I do. Your admonition that this is a "HORRIBLE IDEA" continues to be 100% incorrect. [emoticon]

Posted By: Atlee on 08/19/17 06:54am

I got one of these for my new trailers. It's by Andersen and is called a jack block. It is working great for my current trailer. Wish I had had one before.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Andersen-3608-Trailer-Jack-Block-Trailer-Jack-Stabilizer-Stackable-/401291104913

Posted By: Bobbo on 08/19/17 07:15am

For those using stacks of lumber under the tongue jack, maybe one of these will help. When I get my trailer back from the dealer (air conditioner quit cooling) I am going to measure to see if it will fit mine and order one.

Extendable tongue jack foot

[image]

Posted By: GWolfe on 08/19/17 07:36am

I have an 8x8 chunk of wood I use under my tongue jack. Chocking the tires is the first thing I do before unhitching, unhooking the safety chains is the last thing I do when unhitching.

2005 Sun-Lite Eagle
2011 Silverado

Posted By: FF286 on 08/19/17 10:56am

what I was told when we bought our first camper was to get the camper level, put the wheel chocks out then put the truck in neutral. This lets it get any movement done and secure against the chocks. Put the truck in park, then unhook from the trailer. The truck may roll some but the trailer never has.This has worked for 11 years so far and hopefully will continue.

Posted By: RSD559 on 08/19/17 12:25pm

Bobbo wrote:

The electric tongue jack I put on my Hideout had one of these. Very handy. I had forgotten about it. Thanks.

2020 Torque T314 Toy Hauler Travel Trailer- 38' tip to tip.
2015 F-350 6.7L Diesel, SRW.
2021 Can Am Defender 6 seater. Barely fits in the toy hauler!

Posted By: soren on 08/19/17 12:41pm

bstar1952 wrote:

I pulled into a campground after a very long day on the road. I was nearly asleep on my feet, and forgot to chock the trailer wheels. After I had the tongue leveled, on a small amount of blocking, the trailer rolled backwards until the steel foot on the jack fell off the short stack of 2x6 scrap it was on. The tongue jack dropped about 3" and dug into the gravel, stopping after sliding about a foot back. It would of been a no harm, no foul, play, BUT the dear wife was sitting on the toilet at the time. I knew this because of the scream she let loose as the whole show started. She was not amused.

Posted By: campigloo on 08/20/17 04:36pm

Hannibal wrote:

Lol. One of my first jobs was with Pepsi Cola delivering drinks. First stop one day and an ordinary run of the mill pallet stopped my fully loaded truck from rolling into the Mississippi River. Glad I had a supervisor riding with me that day??

Posted By: dave54 on 08/20/17 06:38pm

Yep. The best practice is chocks down before unhooking, chocks up after hooking. So the wheels are either chocked or the trailer is hooked up at all times. No exceptions, not even for the briefest of moments for any reason.

=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=
So many campsites, so little time...
~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~=~

Posted By: camperforlife on 08/20/17 07:39pm

I use the ROBOFOOT. No blocks any longer. Sweet and simple.

Posted By: 2012Coleman on 08/21/17 09:27am

camperforlife wrote:

I use the ROBOFOOT. No blocks any longer. Sweet and simple.

Looks interesting - thanks!

Experience without good judgment is worthless; good judgment without experience is still good judgment!

2018 RAM 3500 Big Horn CTD
2018 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

Posted By: Bobbo on 08/21/17 08:42pm

camperforlife wrote:

I use the ROBOFOOT. No blocks any longer. Sweet and simple.

Does the Robofoot lock in the downward position, or could it fold up if the trailer rolled a couple of inches?

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