When I test drove it I noticed the tires were kinda loud. But since I have significant hearing loss and wear aids in both ears I didn't think it would bother me much. Well it's getting on my nerves as well as anyone that rides with me. So for the heck of it I downloaded the decibel app today. Sure enough, I hit 35mph and I'm at 87-91 decibels. At idle I'm at 55 decibel. It stays steady at 87-91 regardless of my speed over 35. They quiet down a bit if I'm making a sweeping curve on the freeway, but otherwise they're loud.
Curious if anyone else is experiencing this with a similar setup?
Hate to pull nearly new tires, but I think the money would be well spent.
-2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 Crew Cab 5.3L Max Trailering Package 3.73 Rear gearing
-2018 Arctic Wolf 265dbh8
We increase ours from 40psi when not towing to 50psi when towing an never noticed any significant noise, in fact the truck seems to ride quieter then the wifes sports car.
M & N
Tundra TRD V8 4x4 w/Leer Shell
EU2000i * Prodigy * McKesh * Trek * Renogy * ENU
2015 Cummins Ram 4wd CC/SB
I had a set on my Excursion and they were never loud.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey
12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer
13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper
I now run Michelin. Same price, much quieter and looks like they will wear longer too,
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB
Discount Tire helped me out on a new set of Coopers. The KO2s wearing out early was becoming well known.
2020 Chevy 3500 CC 4X4 DRW D/A
2013 Fuzion 342
2011 RZR Desert Tan
2012 Sea Doo GTX 155
2018 Chevy 3500HD CC LB SRW 4X4 D/A
2015 Chevy Camaro ZL1
...they howl like a pissed off ghost being given the business with a hot poker.
The MTs are loud. I have never thought the ATs were.
Perhaps there is some confusion here on the different tire treads?
It would not be the first time that has happened.
Huntindog
100% boondocking
2021 Grand Design Momentum 398M
2 bathrooms, no waiting
104 gal grey, 104 black,158 fresh
FullBodyPaint, 3,8Kaxles, DiscBrakes
17.5LRH commercial tires
1860watts solar,800 AH Battleborn batterys
2020 Silverado HighCountry CC DA 4X4 DRW
Mud-Terrains are damb-near unbearable.
If you are wanting Macho looking LT's with long life what would you recommend?
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens, PullRite SuperGlide 2700 15K
2013 KZ Durango 2857
Huntindog wrote:
I've run BFG ATs and MTs for decades.
The MTs are loud. I have never thought the ATs were.
Perhaps there is some confusion here on the different tire treads?
It would not be the first time that has happened.
I've run BFG ATs and MTs for decades.
The MTs are loud. I have never thought the ATs were.
Perhaps there is some confusion here on the different tire treads?
It would not be the first time that has happened.
Very possible that's true, as we've been riding on BFG AT tires as long as we've been driving trucks - since the 1980's - and never think it's loud. We're right new running BFG KO2 AT 285's.
We installed the BFG MT tires in the snow country when we lived there, years ago, that those are great for snow, but very loud on the highways.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic
I used to run BFG AT's and MT's on my Jeeps when i was younger and just never seemed to have this issue.
As for the "look"...i could care less. Even though i'm only 37 i'm becoming an old man and preferring comfort and longevity over looks!
When i go on Tire Rack and look up my size, this is the only E rated tire available.
Harold Fairbanks II wrote:
Yes, loud as hell.
...they howl like a pissed off ghost being given the business with a hot poker.
Yes, loud as hell.
...they howl like a pissed off ghost being given the business with a hot poker.
That's a great way to describe it!!
dodge guy wrote:
If they are that loud then they are probably cupped. If that's the case you will need to check the shocks and alignment. then put the choppy ones in the rear so they can even back out.
I had a set on my Excursion and they were never loud.
If they are that loud then they are probably cupped. If that's the case you will need to check the shocks and alignment. then put the choppy ones in the rear so they can even back out.
I had a set on my Excursion and they were never loud.
I need to look at my oil change paperwork....i think they had a note on there about something in regards to cupping....i'll need to re-read it and see what it said.
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Always run my tires at 80 psi rear and 60 front (F350 one ton 4x4).
SidecarFlip wrote:
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Never heard that one before.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP
drsteve wrote:
Never heard that one before.
SidecarFlip wrote:
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Never heard that one before.
This is true of every vehicle where the opposing wheels/tires are connected. Not unique to diesel. In fact there was just a post about differentials here.
mich800 wrote:
This is true of every vehicle where the opposing wheels/tires are connected. Not unique to diesel. In fact there was just a post about differentials here.
drsteve wrote:
Never heard that one before.
SidecarFlip wrote:
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Issue with any diesel is going around a corner, the torque tens to want to spin the inside rear tire on dry pavement and that results in tire wear.
Never heard that one before.
This is true of every vehicle where the opposing wheels/tires are connected. Not unique to diesel. In fact there was just a post about differentials here.
More so with a diesel because of the increased torque (and in my case a Detroit Tru-Trak in the rear spool). Never been a fan of factory limited slip differentials because of the clutch plates. A Detroit uses a dog clutch arrangement mush like an ARB (which I have in the front spool). My ARB provides a solid locking (no differential at all) when engaged. I have true 4 wheel drive when I need it, providing I lock in the front hubs that is.
2112 wrote:
I'm happy I read this. I'm due for new shoe's and the BFG AT are on the top of my list.
If you are wanting Macho looking LT's with long life what would you recommend?
I'm happy I read this. I'm due for new shoe's and the BFG AT are on the top of my list.
If you are wanting Macho looking LT's with long life what would you recommend?
Nitto Dura Grappler, Cooper AT3
I just purchased a set of the Cooper AT3s recently. Great price, about 60% of Toyo AT2s.
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE
I'd take a set but I wouldn't pay a premium for them.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
monkey44 wrote:
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
Why? That's alotta air empty.
Grit dog wrote:
Why? That's alotta air empty.
monkey44 wrote:
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
Why? That's alotta air empty.
X2. I run my ATs at 50 all around when empty, and bump the rears to 80 for hauling.
Sure enough, all 4 tires have cupping on the innermost set of lugs. It's crazy, exactly every other lug on each tire is worn down. That's why when i'm going slow it sounds like tractor tires going down a road and then when i get up to speed it goes to that higher pitch.
So i need to confirm that there's nothing i can do to fix the cupping before i dump a grand or more on new rubbers
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown")
Also, running too much PSI will absolutely cause cupping, as will worn-out shocks.
However...it IS reversible, especially on these tires. They will correct themselves quickly.
Don't let the tire shop rip you off by telling you it isn't correctable.
I've fixed cupping on these exact tires that was caused by my error (not rotating them frequently enough and running them too hard on my TOAD for less rolling resistance). After about 1000 miles, the cupping was gone.
drsteve wrote:
X2. I run my ATs at 50 all around when empty, and bump the rears to 80 for hauling.
Grit dog wrote:
Why? That's alotta air empty.
monkey44 wrote:
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
Why? That's alotta air empty.
X2. I run my ATs at 50 all around when empty, and bump the rears to 80 for hauling.
After all these years (40+) riding on BFG "E" tires, I find that pressure rides the best, and wears tread the best. For the record, I seldom drive the 2500HD without a load anyway - we have a SUV for run around at home, so the truck usually sits when empty unless Genie takes the SUV somewhere at same time I go out. And, we do not haul a toad when traveling.
Harold Fairbanks II wrote:
Rotating them will DEFINITELY correct the cupping.
Also, running too much PSI will absolutely cause cupping, as will worn-out shocks.
However...it IS reversible, especially on these tires. They will correct themselves quickly.
Don't let the tire shop rip you off by telling you it isn't correctable.
I've fixed cupping on these exact tires that was caused by my error (not rotating them frequently enough and running them too hard on my TOAD for less rolling resistance). After about 1000 miles, the cupping was gone.
Rotating them will DEFINITELY correct the cupping.
Also, running too much PSI will absolutely cause cupping, as will worn-out shocks.
However...it IS reversible, especially on these tires. They will correct themselves quickly.
Don't let the tire shop rip you off by telling you it isn't correctable.
I've fixed cupping on these exact tires that was caused by my error (not rotating them frequently enough and running them too hard on my TOAD for less rolling resistance). After about 1000 miles, the cupping was gone.
So the truck has 45k on it and i've only had it a few months.
They cross rotated them and re-balanced them. They don't do alignments so he said i should take it somewhere to have that done.
Since it's on all 4 tires, how will it correct itself??
I asked if flipping the tire on the rim so that it's putting the cupped edge on the outside of the truck would "balance" them out and he said no.
So i'm all ears on how i can fix them!
Cupping is usually caused by too-hard of a tire that "bounces" somewhat down the road caused by either too high psi or worn shocks, but cupping is just as commonly caused by lack of rotation. It is normal for your tires to cup if you've neglected to regularly rotate them or if you ride them very hard.
Some tires naturally cup more than others, and some vehicle/tire combos can lead to unimaginable extreme cupping when the same tires work fine on another vehicle.
When you say "cross-rotated" what specific pattern did they do?
Normally on a RWD vehicle, the back wheels go straight to the front and the front wheels criss-cross to the rear. That is for "uncupped" tires.
However, in my experience (and what worked to correct my ATs) the quickest way to correct the cupping is to swap them in an X-pattern so that each tire not only changes from front to back but also changes rotation.
This, combined with running 42psi in all 4 tires, corrected mine in under 1000 miles.
Also...don't be alarmed if the truck rides WAY worse when you first rotate the cupped tires. This won't last long, and the excessive cupped noise will go away...quickly. When I first rotated my badly cupped AT rears to the front it sounded like a jet plane going off for about 100 miles. The tires wore down flat in a matter of a few hundred miles until they were completely flat...and they were cupped as bad as yours.
Give it a chance to work, and keep the psi lower. They'll be fine. Make sure they rotated them properly.
I have new Cooper AT3's with 80 psi in all of them, and just made a 5,000 mile trip to YS and back, and they show no cupping or wear.
garyp4951 wrote:
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.
Your tire shop was wrong.
* This post was edited 08/08/17 08:21am by Harold Fairbanks II *
Harold Fairbanks II wrote:
Your tire shop was wrong.
garyp4951 wrote:
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.
Your tire shop was wrong.
I am running my new Toyo AT2's 80 rear 60 front , when towing . 50-55 rear, 60 front empty. Time will tell on the cupping, the OEM firestones had no cupping. They wore down very smooth ,and fast
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
My 3500 Ram calls for just 60 psi max on the front, although the OEM tires , and the Toyo's call for 80 psi max, but apparently not needed on the front, as the weight changes very little when loaded or unloaded.
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
********************************************************************
CapriRacer
Visit my web site: www.BarrysTireTech.com
Harold Fairbanks II wrote:
However, in my experience (and what worked to correct my ATs) the quickest way to correct the cupping is to swap them in an X-pattern so that each tire not only changes from front to back but also changes rotation.
This, combined with running 42psi in all 4 tires, corrected mine in under 1000 miles.
However, in my experience (and what worked to correct my ATs) the quickest way to correct the cupping is to swap them in an X-pattern so that each tire not only changes from front to back but also changes rotation.
This, combined with running 42psi in all 4 tires, corrected mine in under 1000 miles.
This is exactly what they did, only difference is they set it to 45psi.
Yes, they are as loud if not slightly louder.
Just keep the psi on the low side and drive it. It WILL get better. Rotate them at the very minimum every 5000 miles.
CapriRacer wrote:
Guys,
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
Guys,
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?
monkey44 wrote:
After all these years (40+) riding on BFG "E" tires, I find that pressure rides the best, and wears tread the best. For the record, I seldom drive the 2500HD without a load anyway - we have a SUV for run around at home, so the truck usually sits when empty unless Genie takes the SUV somewhere at same time I go out. And, we do not haul a toad when traveling.
drsteve wrote:
X2. I run my ATs at 50 all around when empty, and bump the rears to 80 for hauling.
Grit dog wrote:
Why? That's alotta air empty.
monkey44 wrote:
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
One thing I noticed on our BFG AT 285's - we have to keep them aired up even when not loaded. We run at 65 front, 75 in the rear, then bump up to 70 front and 80 rear when we haul the TC.
Why? That's alotta air empty.
X2. I run my ATs at 50 all around when empty, and bump the rears to 80 for hauling.
After all these years (40+) riding on BFG "E" tires, I find that pressure rides the best, and wears tread the best. For the record, I seldom drive the 2500HD without a load anyway - we have a SUV for run around at home, so the truck usually sits when empty unless Genie takes the SUV somewhere at same time I go out. And, we do not haul a toad when traveling.
Makes sense for running loaded and no, I don't air down for short term if they're aired up already for hauling, but that's harsh for daily driver unloaded.
CapriRacer wrote:
Guys,
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
Guys,
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
Yes, I agree, bad shocks caused the tires on my Bronco to scallop or cup. Many years ago, however the same thing...
Inquiring minds want to know...
webejpn wrote:
So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?
CapriRacer wrote:
Guys,
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
Guys,
The term *cupping* is widely used - and misused. Technically, the cause is out of balance or a bad shock - BUT - it has been used so often to refer to other forms of irregular wear, that the term is used interchangeably for diagnonal wear, one sided wear, feathering, etc. Besides, it's kind of hard to distinguish between the various types of irregular wear.
Since most people are amatuers when it comes to identifying irregular tire wear - including many who work at tire shops - I think we need to cut these people some slack about what words they use.
So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?
I have forgotten the actual term used as it was in the 80's, however they can 'shave' the tire a bit to remove the cup or scallop and give you more tire life, depending on the depth, etc... How good are your shocks?
Perhaps it was called 'truing' the tire...?
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.
webejpn wrote:
Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.
I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.
Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.
I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.
At 45K, the factory shocks are shot.
The mileage can be irrelevant depending upon how the vehicle was driven by previous owner and the surface conditions that it was driven on. 'Catching air' 1 time can ruin shocks, suspension, etc., as an example...
What will you do if you replace tires and same thing starts happening again?
I would seriously get the suspension checked and perhaps research having the tires trued before buying new tires. JMHO
Good luck!
webejpn wrote:
Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.
I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.
Truck only has 45k on it, so i would hope the shocks aren't already shot.
I thought the exact same thing about some sort of "shave" technique. I know alot of guys used to do it for offroading for better traction before all the fancy tires came around.
It's called truing. I just had it done on a set of tires for my truck since they were so out of round that they wouldn't balance. Cheap tires, big mistake. I run BFG's for a few years and never had problems with wear, rotated them every 4k when I changes the oil and they still had decent tread after about 45k when I would get new ones.
2020 Ram 2500 6.7 CTD 4x4 Tradesman(with a few toys)
2020 Puma by Palomino 32RBFQ for the kids!
webejpn wrote:
What kind of shop does "truing" ? Any chain places or is it going to be local mom and pop shops?
What kind of shop does "truing" ? Any chain places or is it going to be local mom and pop shops?
truing tires in appleton wisconsin
This should give you a place to start with some numbers to call and ask. You can replace 'truing' with 'shaving' in the search as they are the same thing. Green Bay seems to be the closest larger city so you might try that as well.
I still think that you should get your shocks and suspension checked first...
webejpn wrote:
So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?
So what's your recommendation based on everything i've posted?
First, check your vehicle tire placard. It will be on the driver's door frame.
My book says your truck came with P265/65R18's, not LT265/65R18's. It also said the specified inflation pressure for those P type tires is 35 psi. That means the LT's should be inflated to 50 psi.
Please note: I am not a fan of replacing P type tires with LT type tires because of that inflation pressure change. That increase changes the tire's spring rate and that has handling implications.
Second, contrary to what some have said, there's no fixing a tire once it has developed irregular wear. The best you can hope for is to have a new wear pattern worn on top of what is already there and covers it up. In this case, I don't think that is likely.
What was the cause? Probably alignment. It is my opinion that the published alignment tolerances are too wide by half - that even alignments within those published tolerances can cause irregular wear. You need to be within the inner half of the tolerance to assure good tire wear.
And that assumes the target value is good for tire wear - and in many cases, it is not.
It also assumes that the load you are putting on the truck is not skewing the truck too much.
So I think a look at the towing specs vs the trailer specs are in order. You might need to weigh the package to make sure you are not overloading things.
Truing tires? Yes, that used to be a thing - that was mostly used because there was no way to correct an "out of round" tire assembly. I put those quotes there because the physical dimension was only part of the problem and truing the tire only addressed that one issue.
Tires have gotten a lot better over the years and I would expect it to be difficult to find any of that equipment still in use.
OK, that's a start. There may be more to do as things are discovered.
webejpn wrote:
So I bought my 2015 Silverado used about 2 months ago. It had a newer set of BFG All-Terrain KO2 LT265/65 R18 on it which is load range E which is perfect for towing our camper.
When I test drove it I noticed the tires were kinda loud. But since I have significant hearing loss and wear aids in both ears I didn't think it would bother me much. Well it's getting on my nerves as well as anyone that rides with me. So for the heck of it I downloaded the decibel app today. Sure enough, I hit 35mph and I'm at 87-91 decibels. At idle I'm at 55 decibel. It stays steady at 87-91 regardless of my speed over 35. They quiet down a bit if I'm making a sweeping curve on the freeway, but otherwise they're loud.
Curious if anyone else is experiencing this with a similar setup?
Hate to pull nearly new tires, but I think the money would be well spent.
So I bought my 2015 Silverado used about 2 months ago. It had a newer set of BFG All-Terrain KO2 LT265/65 R18 on it which is load range E which is perfect for towing our camper.
When I test drove it I noticed the tires were kinda loud. But since I have significant hearing loss and wear aids in both ears I didn't think it would bother me much. Well it's getting on my nerves as well as anyone that rides with me. So for the heck of it I downloaded the decibel app today. Sure enough, I hit 35mph and I'm at 87-91 decibels. At idle I'm at 55 decibel. It stays steady at 87-91 regardless of my speed over 35. They quiet down a bit if I'm making a sweeping curve on the freeway, but otherwise they're loud.
Curious if anyone else is experiencing this with a similar setup?
Hate to pull nearly new tires, but I think the money would be well spent.
I had that exact size on my 2012 F150 Screw 4WD and they were really quiet. Don't know what you may be hearing. What I hated was their lack of traction in the rain. For that reason, I won't be a repeat buyer. I was running them at 47 psi which is what I needed in rating and where even tread wear was shown by the chaulk test.
2019 Ford F150 XLT Sport, CC, 4WD, 145" WB, 3.5L Ecoboost, 10 speed, 3.55 9.75" Locking Axle, Max Tow, 1831# Payload, 10700# Tow Rating, pulling a 2020 Rockwood Premier 2716g, with a 14' box. Previous 2012 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH.
Grit dog wrote:
^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.
^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.
CapriRacer is one of our resident tire engineers. I'm reasonably sure he has a sound reason for that statement.
cummins2014 wrote:
I am running my new Toyo AT2's 80 rear 60 front , when towing . 50-55 rear, 60 front empty. Time will tell on the cupping, the OEM firestones had no cupping. They wore down very smooth ,and fast
My 3500 Ram calls for just 60 psi max on the front, although the OEM tires , and the Toyo's call for 80 psi max, but apparently not needed on the front, as the weight changes very little when loaded or unloaded.
Harold Fairbanks II wrote:
Your tire shop was wrong.
garyp4951 wrote:
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.
My alignment shop told me that running tires more than 10psi under the max pressure will cup them.
Your tire shop was wrong.
I am running my new Toyo AT2's 80 rear 60 front , when towing . 50-55 rear, 60 front empty. Time will tell on the cupping, the OEM firestones had no cupping. They wore down very smooth ,and fast
My 3500 Ram calls for just 60 psi max on the front, although the OEM tires , and the Toyo's call for 80 psi max, but apparently not needed on the front, as the weight changes very little when loaded or unloaded.
I believe you'll be very pleased with the Toyo's.
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs "270k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"
drsteve wrote:
CapriRacer is one of our resident tire engineers. I'm reasonably sure he has a sound reason for that statement.
Grit dog wrote:
^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.
^ So a vehicles weight theoretically calls for 35psi in a P tire and that equates to 50psi in a E tire? Don't need to run them that high unless you need the load capacity.
CapriRacer is one of our resident tire engineers. I'm reasonably sure he has a sound reason for that statement.
Yup, that's right.
An LT type tire needs 15 psi more to carry the same load as a P type tire of the same dimensions. (For those who are going to check, don't forget to include the 1.1 derating factor for P type tires used in an LT application.)