2012 F250 Lariat 6.5ft. bed, 6.2L, 3:73 Gears
2013 Sabre 33CKTS-6
Next day I realized there was a breaker. Only thing, like I said I think mine also cuts off the SD.
Actually I have a fuse for it not a breaker.
* This post was edited 08/02/17 02:32pm by riven1950 *
So I used my diagonal cuts to turn it off permanently.
I have a plug in 110v unit to replace it when cold weather camping returns.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed
DW and I were driving our Class C from TN to UT a few years ago. The CO detector went off while we were approaching Colorado Springs. The MH was several years old, so we decided the CO detector needed to be replaced. Stopped at Walmart, bought a new one, and installed it. When we reached Denver, the new one alarmed. We found a Ford dealer in Denver who pulled a tech off of another vehicle when he heard we were traveling cross country. The tech discovered that the doghouse in our MH was not installed properly and was letting CO from the engine area into the house. It was enough to trip the alarm at the rear of the 32' MH.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB
Ron & Del
2003 Fleetwood, Storm 30H
P32 Chassis
Part-Timer, Retired
rwgeiser wrote:
I wonder if folks are talking about carbon monoxide detector or if they are actually talking about the propane detector located just above the floor? These are two completely different animals.
Except when they're exactly the same thing.I wonder if folks are talking about carbon monoxide detector or if they are actually talking about the propane detector located just above the floor? These are two completely different animals.
![[image]](http://www.atwoodmobile.com/images/LP_CO_COMBO_BLK.jpg)
mike-s wrote:
rwgeiser wrote:
I wonder if folks are talking about carbon monoxide detector or if they are actually talking about the propane detector located just above the floor? These are two completely different animals.
Except when they're exactly the same thing.I wonder if folks are talking about carbon monoxide detector or if they are actually talking about the propane detector located just above the floor? These are two completely different animals.
X2 exactly my case. I have an even cheaper model with just a Ready and Alarm light, no indication of what caused the alarm.
New unit has Ready, Gas Alarm and CO Alarm.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.
2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900
Maybe it's a physics issue but I've never had a false alarm from my smoke detector. I've had accidental alarms from cooking but that's it.
My four year old COLP detector went into a constant state of false alarm just this last month. There were no fires to generate CO and the propane was also off.
That's when the detector got the wire cutters.
That said I do believe it saved me once when a class A parked next to me while sleeping overnight at a rest area with both their engine and generator exhaust pumping into my windows.
* This post was edited 08/02/17 11:15am by GordonThree *
I am terrified of carbon monoxide. Five decades ago when I learned carbon monoxide was five times more easily absorbed than oxygen in the lungs it made my hair stand out on end. Today, my hair has little chance to stand out on end.
I picked up a crate of detectors at the Lockheed auctions. Made by HP. Ugly, 12-24 volts with a huge coin cell battery inside. When 120vac power is lost the unit chirps every minute or so. They do have a chirper on/off slide switch on the reverse.
I don't know about others, however I am not a fan of combination units.
Smoke typically rises, so I want my smoke detector on or at the ceiling.
LP gas is heavier than air and should be located down near the floor.
CO is just about equal in weight to air so it should be mounted about the height that your head is at the most...
So what is your head height at the most when you are in your trailer? Well, my head would either be on the bed (sleeping) or sitting height (eating, watching tv, conversing, etc.) So I would recommend mounting your CO detector about waist height when you are standing...
Cleaning solutions such as Lysol, etc., can set them off, so perhaps putting a shower cap over it while cleaning will be visible so that you don't forget to remove when finished.
IMHO, combination units should not be sold or allowed.
Sorry that I cannot give info on how to disarm as there must be a reason, if no other than time for a replacement!
Be safe, happy camping!
Inquiring minds want to know...
GordonThree wrote:
Maybe so, but constant false alarms also erode the effectiveness of the device.
Maybe it's a physics issue but I've never had a false alarm from my smoke detector. I've had accidental alarms from cooking but that's it.
My four year old COLP detector went into a constant state of false alarm just this last month. There were no fires to generate CO and the propane was also off.
That's when the detector got the wire cutters.
That said I do believe it saved me once when a class A parked next to me while sleeping overnight at a rest area with both their engine and generator exhaust pumping into my windows.
Maybe so, but constant false alarms also erode the effectiveness of the device.
Maybe it's a physics issue but I've never had a false alarm from my smoke detector. I've had accidental alarms from cooking but that's it.
My four year old COLP detector went into a constant state of false alarm just this last month. There were no fires to generate CO and the propane was also off.
That's when the detector got the wire cutters.
That said I do believe it saved me once when a class A parked next to me while sleeping overnight at a rest area with both their engine and generator exhaust pumping into my windows.
Right, I've had a few alarms but they weren't false. I always carry 9V batteries with me too, just in case my smoke detector battery dies. I'd rather wake up in the morning when I go to bed.
We have never had a CO/propane or smoke alarm go off. Except the CO/propane detector did last year after a simultaneous battery & charger failure and consequent low voltage.
A smoke detector should be replaced at max. 10 years (refer to print on detector) but they lose 10% of their effectiveness each year and it's recommended to replace them at 5 years of use. Propane/CO detectors should be replaced at 5 years. Basically, replace both at the same time every 5 years...
A life safety device should never ever be defeated. The cause of any false alarms needs to be addressed and pdq.
You just never know when you'll need an alarm. Couple of months ago after we got home, not sure how, but a knob on the stove got turned partly on. Wasn't until a day or two later my SIL asked why an alarm was going off in the trailer. Not good. Could easily happen while you're inside.
* This post was edited 08/02/17 12:39pm by myredracer *
The manatees of Halls river Homosassa Springs Fl
1985 Chevy Silverado c10. 454 stroker / 495 CI = 675 HP. 650lb of torque. Turb0 400 tranny. 3000 stall converter. Aluminum heads. 3 inch exhaust flowmasters. 2 inch headers. Heat and air. Tubed.
-200x100.jpg)
beemerphile1 wrote:
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
Suggestions on fixing constant false alarms would be helpful.
Buckeye Chuck wrote:
Is there a way to disconnect or turn off the carbon monoxide detector without cutting the power to the entire unit?
Entire unit? The whole RV?Is there a way to disconnect or turn off the carbon monoxide detector without cutting the power to the entire unit?
What exactly is the issue you are trying to resolve.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
GordonThree wrote:
Suggestions on fixing constant false alarms would be helpful.
beemerphile1 wrote:
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
Suggestions on fixing constant false alarms would be helpful.
Start with a new detector. Try a different brand. Even get a battery powered home unit. Try a different location in the RV. If you still have issues, start digging into alarm trigger sensitivity levels as some are made for different levels.
I would not be without all three, smoke, propane and CO detectors.
beemerphile1 wrote:
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
No one with the problem has died yet!
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
See my earlier response re:finding the CO source in my MH.
Kidde
Kidde KN-COPP-3 Nighthawk Plug-In Carbon Monoxide Alarm with Battery Backup
4.5 out of 5 stars 2,247 customer reviews
| 166 answered questions
#1 Best Sellerin Carbon Monoxide Detectors
Price: $38.77
![[image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61310nzIeAL._SL1000_.jpg)
i had to whack the wires anyway to get the new one installed.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
GordonThree wrote:
Suggestions on fixing constant false alarms would be helpful.
beemerphile1 wrote:
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
If you have a problem - fix the problem. A disconnect switch is very likely to create a much larger (even fatal) problem.
Suggestions on fixing constant false alarms would be helpful.
Install a new detector, didn't think that needed said.
If a new detector still alarms, it may be a crazy idea, but maybe the detector is doing what it is supposed to do and telling you that danger is present!
Buckeye Chuck wrote:
I did not start this post for the intention of debating the merits of having or not having a CO detector. I simply want a way to turn it off while I am using a bug bomb to fumigate the inside of my camper. The last time I did this my CO detector went off and was beeping for 4 hours straight while we were out of the camper. I do not want this to happen again out of respect for my neighbors.
I did not start this post for the intention of debating the merits of having or not having a CO detector. I simply want a way to turn it off while I am using a bug bomb to fumigate the inside of my camper. The last time I did this my CO detector went off and was beeping for 4 hours straight while we were out of the camper. I do not want this to happen again out of respect for my neighbors.
Tape plastic over the detector while bombing. Even if power is off, the chemicals might coat the sensor and cause permanent damage.
Here goes
I am no expert but I have owned so many CO detectors the numbers and the brands are long forgotten. Whenever a detector false alarms I get mighty suspicious because it is not doing what it gets paid to do.
One detector alarmed and only shut up when I disconnected the power and "rebooted" it. Then when I held it over an unlit stove burner it failed to alarm. I then took it out to the toad and with a battery stuck it into the running engine exhaust pipe of my toad
It still did not alarm.
I left it connected on the work bench. Around 11:00PM it again alarmed.
I can't help but be suspicious of a safety device that malfunctions. Is my opinion in the minority here? Why?
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I have a question...I can't help but be suspicious of a safety device that malfunctions. Is my opinion in the minority here? Why?
I have a question...I can't help but be suspicious of a safety device that malfunctions. Is my opinion in the minority here? Why?
If a safety device alarms, the first thing I assume is that a hazard exists. If after thorough examination I discover there is no hazard, the device is replaced because it obviously has failed.
Had one at home and having heavily-used fireplace got some surprises when the fire is danger (tip - fire does not emit high CO- red charcoals do)
For "some" reasons such detectors are hard to buy, Think about it.
Last weekend, I was installing a dimmer switch for my awning LED strip lights. It was being installed behind a panel next to my 120VAC breakers. The compartment in question is below the fridge, with no access doors, and in addition to lots of wiring and my converter, the backside of the LP detector is also there. I had used liquid electrical tape on the backside of the circuit board of the dimmer, inside this area. The fumes from it set off the LP detector!
At least I know both units are working!
BTW, my smoke detector and my CO detector are each powered by 9V batteries; my LP detector is hardwired into the RV (12vdc), and it turns off with the battery main switch. I, too, am not a fan of combination units.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!
2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II
May I ask what kind of bug bomb?
Thanks for the help.