Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?
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 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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btilfan

springfield NE

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Posted: 12/21/17 09:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

btilfan wrote:

I find myself addicted to this thread!!!



Is that a bad thing?


nope


2007 Damon Astoria Pacifica
My next hobby.


fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sooner or later, if you use flap sanding disks for your grinder, they are going to end up looking something like this.

As such, they don't cut very well, and if you are using a cordless grinder, applying more pressure to make them cut/grind better, will just kill the battery sooner, as well as being hard on the motor of the grinder.



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, the UPS guys came today, with the order of my new flap grinding disks.

They showed up much later than usual, and I said to them, that they must have gotten pretty beat up today with packages, because they were so late.

Well, they said, it it Christmas. Nuff said.


[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After welding in the drivers side steel at the front, today I moved back over to the passenger side.

As you remember, I said that I had not used any sealant between the side wall, and the steel that is part of the cab area. After using the Sikaflex on the drivers side, I decided it was time to put some on the passenger side also.

I removed a series of screws, (red arrows), from the inside, accessible over the top of the tire.

That gave the steel enough of flex, that I could shoot some Sikaflex in there, and then put the screws back in place.

That will seal things between the wall and cab steel, and hopefully eliminate any squeaks there, as well as keep the elements out.

You can also see some of the white Sikaflex squeeze out here. I ended up with a little more squeeze out than what I anticipated.



[image]


As you can see, I removed the lower half of the fiberglass sidewall, which I had held in place with the white shrink tape. That stuff works well.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You will also remember that there were some screws that were fastened from the inside, into the steel framing, indicated by the red circle.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And here is a shot of reinstalling those screws, along with the Sikaflex squeeze out.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here is a shot of removing the shrink tape. That stuff has been on there for several weeks, in the sun, wind, rain, and snow.

It pulled off hard, and just a second after this pic, the tape tore, trying to pull it off.

There is a spot just to the right of the where I am pulling, that you can see already tore off.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/17 08:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And here is the middle half of the fiberglass that I just put back into place. At the top, is where the new tape is, as well as along the right side.

Looks like I am running low on the tape, so I may have to order some more.

After this, I hooked up the bottom piece of fibergalss, all of the weight, of both pieces is held by the tape at the top. I didn't want to put any holes in the new steel yet, so I just used the tape for now.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/22/17 08:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To follow up on the last pic, this shows the lower piece of fiberglass, that I am securing with a couple of screws and eventually with a little bit of shrink tape. (red arrows)

Believe it or not, fiberglass is not very light, IF, it is to be self supporting. This bottom piece if fairly heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it is probably 3 times heavier than the piece above it.

The piece above it is much thinner, but has little strength, which is why it was glued to plywood.

This bottom piece, has no support behind it, hence the extra weight.

As mentioned last night, all of this is temporarily held up by the white shrink tape, inside the green circle.


[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/22/17 08:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When doing a rebuild like this, it's important to keep your perspective.

There are 2 opposite directions that I tend to go in at the same time.

First off, I need to concentrate on what I need to do today, and only what I need to do today.

If I start looking at the whole job, it looks too massive, and I'll get discouraged, and feel like quitting.

So, when I get up in the morning, I look at today's work and work on exactly, what needs to be done next.

The other side, is to look at some things that need to be done well into the future.

Floor plan, what stove to use, how to heat it, what sink to use, toilet, and so on.

I can be very flexible about those things in the future as I figure out how to get them done, knowing that it won't happen today.

One of the reasons for all of the testing of Por 15 has been that, it has multiple uses. Did you know it can be used to refinish a sink?

It's good on wood, as well as steel, aluminum and so forth.

So, if I wanted to refinish a sink, instead of buying a $300 one, I have the option of doing that. Doesn't mean I will, or won't, but I do have that option. What will it cost? A mere few bucks for the amount of paint that I will use, and also their 2 part enamel top coat. Also, if I need to buy a used sink, whatever I pay for the sink, would be added in.

Either way, if I want to, I have that option. Options are a good thing. I like options.

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