2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
2014 ORV really big trailer
2015 Ford Focus ST
"Our family is a circle of love and strength.
With every birth and every union, the circle grows. Every joy shared adds more love.
Every crisis faced together makes the circle stronger. "
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
pianotuna wrote:
There were two issues.
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
There were two issues.
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
Threads were increased in 2000 and the better alignment was introduced to engines dated 2003 and newer.
(1)(1).JPG)
Should not expect problems changing plugs
Change with engine HOT
Use OEM plugs and replace the Coils with OEM
NO anti-seize or lubricant on new plugs
Torque to 15-ft-lb
Think I'll do it, but not till it isn't so HOT around here. Hot engine on a cool day, OK...
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
pianotuna wrote:
There were two issues.
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
There were two issues.
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
Three issues :
2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part.
DrewE wrote:
...check out the (lack of) easy access to the spark plugs on the E series before finally deciding to do it yourself...
...check out the (lack of) easy access to the spark plugs on the E series before finally deciding to do it yourself...
I feel you, Brother! The question is, Who Is Trust Worthy? I don't want to get that call "Mr. j-d, we found one of your spark plug holes was stripped." Not admitting they cross threaded it on installation and tore the threads out with an impact gun...
timmac wrote:
Three issues :
2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part.
pianotuna wrote:
There were two issues.
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
There were two issues.
pre 2001 not enough threads in the head.
pre 2006 alignment of the spark plug holes in the head.
Three issues :
2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part.
Did any E350/E450 have the 3 valve engine? I always believed that engine was never offered in the cutaway.
CarriGo
Model 2320
timmac wrote:
...2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part...
...2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part...
True, but no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford. Pickups, Class A chassis, probably a bunch of cars, but not vans, cutaway E-Series chassis, etc.
This whole spark plug thing didn't play well at Ford:
1. Two Valve without enough threads, three model years
2. Two Valve with enough but machined wrong, three model years
3. Three Valve with a new spark plug problem, three more model years
But only 1. and 2. relate to Ford Class C Chassis (E-Series).
When we got home Google found some threads on Ford forums and U-Tube videos about doing this job. Most were for trucks rather than motorhomes, but the suggestions were good. So far I have removed the driver and passenger seats to get easier access and I'm hoping I can do the entire job myself. True that there isn't much room to work and a lot in the way. I removed the right rear coil and spark plug, which was the easiest to get to. I wanted to be sure to get the right replacements from the Ford parts guy. All new coils as well as plugs as my goal is that this will be a once in a lifetime job.
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.
BTW, I counted 8 threads on the spark plug. Once I broke it loose, it unscrewed easily. Hopefully a sign of good things to come.
2003 Winnebago Minnie 24F - Ford E-450">
j-d wrote:
... no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford.
... no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford.
CONCUR !
From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine#Spark_plug_issues
Quote:
2-valve 4.6 L, 5.4 L, and 6.8 L engines found in many 1997-2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles may have aluminum cylinder heads with threads for spark plugs that are stripped, missing, or otherwise insufficiently bored out. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 07-21-2 as well as earlier TSBs. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. Ford's only authorized repair procedure for out-of-warranty vehicles is to use the LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit. For vehicles under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, Ford will only cover the replacement of the entire cylinder head; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
2-valve 4.6 L, 5.4 L, and 6.8 L engines found in many 1997-2008 Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles may have aluminum cylinder heads with threads for spark plugs that are stripped, missing, or otherwise insufficiently bored out. Ford acknowledges this issue in TSB 07-21-2 as well as earlier TSBs. Ford's TSB does not state that this issue is caused by owner neglect. Ford's only authorized repair procedure for out-of-warranty vehicles is to use the LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit. For vehicles under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, Ford will only cover the replacement of the entire cylinder head; however, the Ford recommended spark plug service interval extends beyond the duration of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
CloudDriver wrote:
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.
@Drew: NOW I know when I'll change the plugs in our 2002 chassis year E450 V10. AFTER CloudDriver posts his Step-by-Step process!
NOBODY does things more carefully and NOBODY documents a project better.
Thinking I'll just play the thread like a PowerPoint and if I'm close enough, the plugs and coils might just change themselves. Probably have to take the dog house out first, though.
@CD: Your coach is a 2003, and so is ours. Ours is 2002 chassis year. Which is yours?
The shop I talked to said a key factor is being sure the new plugs are started true in the threads. I'm not worried about you, but the shop heard of others putting the plug in the socket and extension then driving it with an Air Tool! They told me spraying a penetrant won't help because the seated plug won't admit it to the threads. I want to be sure the cavity the plug sits at the bottom of, is CLEAN before I loosen. Even if I have to make a long nose adapter for my blow gun.
I've heard of breaking the plug loose then applying Blaster or the like then letting it soak. But I don't see any need if the plug spins out once loose.
Sounds like you're working on a cold engine. Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.
DW and Me
2016 Riverside White Water Retro 195
2014 Nissan Titan SL Crew Cab
Formerly, I used to work for the department of redundancy department.
Life in Black and Blue
Be assured, I'm approaching this with extreme caution. How extreme? We bought this coach in 2008 and I have YET to take the doghouse off. Figurin' it won't bother me if I don't bother it...
j-d wrote:
Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.
Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.
I do not know if this applies to 2V engines, but 3V engines have issues with the original 2 piece spark plug breaking and leaving a portion in the head.
Ford had an elaborate procedure of wait for the engine to cool completely, soaking in penetrating oil, loosen an 1/8 turn, more penetrating oil, etc, etc. Field feedback said, use an impact on the plugs while the engine is hot. Fewer failures have resulted in this method.
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Field feedback said, use an impact on the plugs while the engine is hot. Fewer failures have resulted in this method.
Field feedback said, use an impact on the plugs while the engine is hot. Fewer failures have resulted in this method.
I'd think same would apply to Two Valve Plugs, probably any of them.
I might do that on the Corolla, another Aluminum Head, but I can get at them and snatch all four while the motor's hot.
As somebody noted, a V10 isn't gonna stay hot for the time it takes to gain access and then remove 10 coils and remove 10 plugs!
That said, V10 in an F-Series, maybe four hours will work. I doubt an E-Series will be that quick.
j-d wrote:
@Drew: NOW I know when I'll change the plugs in our 2002 chassis year E450 V10. AFTER CloudDriver posts his Step-by-Step process!
NOBODY does things more carefully and NOBODY documents a project better.
Thinking I'll just play the thread like a PowerPoint and if I'm close enough, the plugs and coils might just change themselves. Probably have to take the dog house out first, though.
@CD: Your coach is a 2003, and so is ours. Ours is 2002 chassis year. Which is yours?
The shop I talked to said a key factor is being sure the new plugs are started true in the threads. I'm not worried about you, but the shop heard of others putting the plug in the socket and extension then driving it with an Air Tool! They told me spraying a penetrant won't help because the seated plug won't admit it to the threads. I want to be sure the cavity the plug sits at the bottom of, is CLEAN before I loosen. Even if I have to make a long nose adapter for my blow gun.
I've heard of breaking the plug loose then applying Blaster or the like then letting it soak. But I don't see any need if the plug spins out once loose.
Sounds like you're working on a cold engine. Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.
CloudDriver wrote:
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.
I plan to take some pictures and write up my experiences in getting this done.
@Drew: NOW I know when I'll change the plugs in our 2002 chassis year E450 V10. AFTER CloudDriver posts his Step-by-Step process!
NOBODY does things more carefully and NOBODY documents a project better.
Thinking I'll just play the thread like a PowerPoint and if I'm close enough, the plugs and coils might just change themselves. Probably have to take the dog house out first, though.
@CD: Your coach is a 2003, and so is ours. Ours is 2002 chassis year. Which is yours?
The shop I talked to said a key factor is being sure the new plugs are started true in the threads. I'm not worried about you, but the shop heard of others putting the plug in the socket and extension then driving it with an Air Tool! They told me spraying a penetrant won't help because the seated plug won't admit it to the threads. I want to be sure the cavity the plug sits at the bottom of, is CLEAN before I loosen. Even if I have to make a long nose adapter for my blow gun.
I've heard of breaking the plug loose then applying Blaster or the like then letting it soak. But I don't see any need if the plug spins out once loose.
Sounds like you're working on a cold engine. Please let me know if you think HOT would be any benefit. I'd really rather not do that,and it's starting to sound like it'd be cold anyhow, by the time I took enough off to get at very many of the plugs.
Ours is on the 2003 chassis.
I bought a 3 gallon air compressor to the blow loose dirt off the top of the heads before removing the one coil I took off. I also blew out the spark plug hole with a 4" or so adapter before trying to loosen the plug. The space is so tight between the top of the engine and the cab that anything longer isn't going to fit. I did use some PB Blaster, but agree that there is no way for it to get past the seated plug. I didn't use any more PB Blaster after breaking the plug loose, as it unscrewed easily after the first 1/2 turn or so. The engine was cold and I wouldn't want to be reaching into in that confined space with a hot engine anyway. The Ford maintenance interval for changing the spark plugs is 100,000 miles, which I now believe to be too long, as I have a gap of almost 80 thousandths on the one plug removed so far vs. the spec of 54. I bought 10 new plugs at the local for dealer today and the gap is obviously much less on the new. These are the one piece plugs - no worry about breaking off the bottom part.
I Have a number of tools for this job on order from Amazon including a 20-200 pound inch torque wrench, a 5/8 magnetic swivel spark plug socket and a new gap gauge. These are supposed to arrive next Wednesday, so things are on hold for now. In the interim I'm looking for a less expensive source for the coils than the dealer price.
Take your doghouse off and take a look. Lots of impressive looking engine in there.
* This post was last edited 05/27/17 12:33am by T18skyguy *
Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. Between rigs right now.. Wife and daughter. Four cats which we must obey.
j-d wrote:
True, but no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford. Pickups, Class A chassis, probably a bunch of cars, but not vans, cutaway E-Series chassis, etc.
This whole spark plug thing didn't play well at Ford:
1. Two Valve without enough threads, three model years
2. Two Valve with enough but machined wrong, three model years
3. Three Valve with a new spark plug problem, three more model years
But only 1. and 2. relate to Ford Class C Chassis (E-Series).
timmac wrote:
...2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part...
...2006 to early 2008 3 valve V-10's spark plugs when removing comes apart in 2 pieces leaving the lower section stuck in the head, however they do have a tool to remove the broken part...
True, but no three-valve ever got into an E-Series Ford. Pickups, Class A chassis, probably a bunch of cars, but not vans, cutaway E-Series chassis, etc.
This whole spark plug thing didn't play well at Ford:
1. Two Valve without enough threads, three model years
2. Two Valve with enough but machined wrong, three model years
3. Three Valve with a new spark plug problem, three more model years
But only 1. and 2. relate to Ford Class C Chassis (E-Series).
And my friends wonder why I stopped buying Fords.
![[image]](https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemDetailImages/FSXK320A.jpg)
Your tip to HAND START the new plugs is totally telling. That seems to be where the real trouble can start. @CloudDriver: I'd like to see the Socket you ordered. That and the Gap Gauge. Thought till now that a good 5/8" six point thin wall plug socket with its foam insert in good shape, will do this job. Any search I've done for "Ford Spark Plug Socket" etc. has led to "F150" and the 9/16" socket for plugs in Three Valve engines.
Tip a friend gave me was to use two drive size adapters, as a very short extension. Ratchet and Socket are 3/8" so Ratchet to 3/8==>1/2 then 1/2==>3/8 to Socket. Provides a little over an inch of extension and they don't sell 'em that short.
I use those little Harbor Fright 3-gallon "Pancake" compressors. That's plural because two have failed so far. GREAT for bike tires and my HF 18-gauge nailer/stapler. GOOD for blowing parts out and for Car Tires. Only FAIR for RV tires. That 100-PSI rating is marginal for getting a tire up to 80. A new compressor's supposed to be run 30-mics at no load as break-in. If you get a new one, so that, and if nothing else, run it up till it shuts off at 100 and park it. Check gauges periodically. A good, new one, will hold all 100 for weeks. If it doesn't, get them to give you another one. I go back because $40 on sale for about three years of use gives me something I can carry that fits in my storage compartment.
The van chassis is a sort of booger for this operation. You do about half the cylinders from the front, and about half from the doghouse side.
Absolutely critical is having both intake and exhaust valves CLOSED when you do the insert placement in one of the cylinders. If you hit a valve with the tooling, you get to remove THAT cylinder head to make repairs. I bought a little optical/TV type viewer snake to make sure I could see the valves.
I rigged up a small piece of plastic tubing to clean up any shavings or junk from the cylinder after doing the insert.
Threads were almost non-existent in the head - - don't know how they could have built it like that. Not surprised they would blow out or easily strip.
Paid around four hundred bucks for the Timesert installation kit (well designed and built) and sold it after the job for three hundred.
It helps to have some machine tool type of experience before trying this kind of job. Not everyone will find it a breeze.
oldusedbear
The reason for spelling is so that all of the words don't look the same.
You can get OEM coils for around $40 online. If I recall correctly that's about half the price from the stealer.
![[image]](https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/ItemDetailImages/S9719KA.jpg)
and the dimensional sketch![[image]](https://public.snapon.com/R_RRD/Objects_lg/images/LS30A_DD.jpg)
A = 3/8" Drive Size (and I think that's for clarification, surely it's 3/8" internal/female, not as pictured. Then B is not called out in the dimensions, so I can't tell if it's the outside diameter of the socket "shell" or the hex size of the plug, which they show as 13/16". The C = 5-7/8" and I take it the knurled surface lets us start and remove the plug by gripping it with our fingers.Am I right about all this? Is the outside diameter ("B"?) meant to fit so closely that the plug is forced to be in alignment with its threaded hole?
I have yet to see a V10 plug. I would have thought they'd be 5/8" hex, but the Snap-On link indicates 13/16". Hmmm
I'm at 5" with my 13/16" (Penncraft! Anybody got one of those?) plug socket and a 3" 3/8 extension. At $70 for the Snap-On socket, I'll epoxy my two together and if I can't separate them later, Oh-Well.
The old spark plug is marked AGSF22WM. The new plugs from the dealer are marked the same. The box is marked SP-479 AGSF22WM. On the side of the box is says "DO NOT REMOVE WHEN ENGINE IS HOT". The plugs fit a 5/8" socket. To get the old plug out, I used a 5/8" spark plug socket with a 3" extension and a 3/8" to 3/8" swivel to increase the height so I could get the ratchet on. I used the handyman's friend (duct tape) to tie the spark plug socket to the extension so I wouldn't lose it if it got stuck on the plug. This is the new spark plug socket I ordered. Fingers crossed that it isn't too long and the socket wall is thin enough. This is the gap tool I ordered. Never had one like this before, but it got good reviews.
I only bought one ignition coil from the dealer as their price was much higher at $75.75 than what I had seen online. The old coil is marked 1L2U-12A366-AA. The Motorcraft plastic bag the new coil came in is marked DG-508 3W7Z-12029-AA and the UPC on is 031508450622. I found a listing for this set of numbers, including the UPC, on Summit Racing for $44.97. Summit Racing claims that these are OEM items and fingers crossed that these arrive in the same Motorcraft packaging that I got from the dealer.
* This post was edited 05/27/17 03:34pm by T18skyguy *
WARNING-----Seriously Boring Somewhat Irrelevant Info Follows:
A side not about plug problems, if anyone seen my previous post, I stated that I worked for a large Ford dealer for almost 20 years. One thing we saw in the early modular engines (pre-2002) was spark plug blow-out, mainly due to not enough threads in the heads. Actually, IMO this wasn't even a wide-spread issue, but you know how the internet goes so now all Ford engines have this problem, lol. This (again IMO) caused additional problem from backyard mechanics tightening the snot out of replacement plugs because they "heard" about all these "problems" and the next guy couldn't get those ones out without screwing things up.
Next came the 3 valve engines that had two problems...mostly in F-series trucks. First problem was that the 3-valve spark plug has a long extended tip that originally was two piece...this probably looked great on paper to help plug cooling and packaging, but nobody seemed to realize what carbon build-up would do to the surrounding orifice of the plug in the cylinder head. Yup, you guessed it, carbon buildup would seize the lower extension of the plug and it would break off when removing. This became exasperated when the plug change intervals was upped to 100,000 miles and became the debacle we see all over the internet today. The second issue was on the F-series the engines sit way back under the cowl causing rain water to drip down onto the last cylinders, that would eventually leak past the coil seal and fill the plug hole in the head with water.....rusts the plug...eventually has a misfire due to moisture in coil/boot. Then the plug is corroded and not easy to remove. The advice around the shop was never go more than around 30K miles on plugs if you want to get them out. Ironically, other shops would say never touch a 3-valve plug unless you have to, lol. We had some success in getting the factory plugs out by running seafoam through the engine first to help clean the carbon out. Oh, and always replace with one-piece plugs!
So, anyway after that long winded post this is useless info to Class C guys as the E-series doesn't have that engine, but maybe a Class A 3-valve guy might stumble in some time. Cheers
Would you happen to know the correct spark plug torque value for a 2003 2-valve engine? My plugs have 8 threads on them, but I can't see well enough down the hole to see how many threads are in the head and the internet has a number of different torques for plugs. Hard to tell which engine the poster is referring to.
Thanks in advance
I had bought a set of coils from Summit Racing some months ago, too..a just in case thing. At a Ford dealer here in Canada they are $100.00 a piece...Summit was..uhmmm...$100? for 10. Anyway...with 210,000 on the clock I decided now is a good time to change out all the plugs and coils...had the work done here in Penticton. $600.00. That included a tire rotation, by request.
Gary Haupt
I have a Blog..about stuff, some of which is RV'ing.
http://mrgwh.blogspot.ca/
As promised, here are my experiences in doing this job. It actually turned out to easier than I had feared. First I removed the seats in the cab to get some room to work. Removing the seats requires a Torx #55 and an 18mm socket.
Access to the area around the coils and plugs is limited but after the heavy wiring bundles that feed the coils, fuel injectors, and other items were moved out of the way it wasn't too bad getting to all the plugs. I did not have to disconnect the wires to the fuel injectors, but did remove the wires from all the coils to get more space to work in. No concern about mixing up the coil wires as they are too short to reach a wrong coil. The cylinders are numbered 1 to 5 front to back on the passenger side and 6 to 10 on the driver's side. I was able to remove and replace the coils and plugs for numbers 1, 2, 6 and 7 from the front and the remainder from the inside of the cab. The most difficult were numbers 3 and 8 because it was hard to get leverage on the wrench in the confined space to break the old plugs loose and properly torque the new plugs.
After the cables and other items were out of the way, I used compressed air to blow as much of the dirt as possible off the top of the cylinder heads and around the coils. After removing each coil hold down bolt (7mm socket and 1/4 inch ratchet worked fine), I twisted the coil and blew off the surrounding area again before pulling the coil out. After removing each coil, I blew out the spark plug hole. I removed all of the coils on the passenger side first, then started removing and replacing the plugs on that side one by one. As I unscrewed each plug, I removed the spark plug socket a couple of times and blew out the hole to make sure no grit got into the cylinder when the plug came out. Overkill maybe, but why not. I screwed the new plugs in just turning the socket extension by hand to be sure not to cross thread. The plugs went in dry, no antiseize. I torqued to 180 in-lb (15 ft-lb). After doing all plugs on the passenger side, I installed the new coils on that side to prevent any grit from blowing off the driver's side from getting into the plug holes. Same steps as above for the driver's side. Now for the pictures.
Cab with seats and doghouse removed.
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Seats%20and%20Doghouse%20RemovedA_zpszbz3qspi.jpg)
ZIP ties holding wire cable away from coil spark plug area
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/ZIP%20Ties%20from%20RearA_zpscemmd9jn.jpg)
Closer view with cable bracket bolts removed
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Rear%20Drivers%20side%20bracketsA_zpskmhzsdar.jpg)
Passenger side from front with bracket bolts removed
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/ZIP%20Tie%20and%20Brackets%20front%20Passenger%20sideA_zpskewwmx48.jpg)
Driver's Side front view
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Drivers%20side%20frontA_zpshmgi8kix.jpg)
#6 and #7 spark plug holes
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/6%20and%207%20plug%20holesA_zpsgdosou4b.jpg)
Passenger side from cab after all new plugs and coils installed
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Coils%201%20to%205A_zpsioxrslis.jpg)
Driver's side with all new plugs and coils installed and wiring cable back in place (tight, isn't it?)
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Coil%20BoltA_zpsuv87yyb5.jpg)
Everything back in place
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/All%20Back%20togetherA_zpsnzizdz8z.jpg)
Motorcraft ignition coil info
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Ignition%20CoilA_zpsrbb3nckh.jpg)
Old spark plugs. Gaps were 60 to 75 thousandths with #4 and#5 the worst. New plugs gapped at 54 thousandths.
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Old%20Spark%20PlugsA_zps9jzobniq.jpg)
Tools I used for the job. 1/4" metric socket set not in picture. The magnetic 5/8" spark plug socket with attached swivel extension was the best thing I bought for this job. The swivel made it so much easier to get the socket into the plug hole in the tight quarters.
![[image]](http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m274/CloudDriver/Spark%20Plug%20Replacement/Tools%20UsedA_zpsd3wsyxm4.jpg)
After doing this once I wouldn't hesitate to replace just the plugs again in 50-60,000 miles.
Were any of the threads difficult or questionable?
Thanks again, for taking point on this, and the time and effort to produce the narrative and pictures.
You Da Man!!!
j-d wrote:
Thank YOU!!!
Were any of the threads difficult or questionable?
Thanks again, for taking point on this, and the time and effort to produce the narrative and pictures.
You Da Man!!!
Thank YOU!!!
Were any of the threads difficult or questionable?
Thanks again, for taking point on this, and the time and effort to produce the narrative and pictures.
You Da Man!!!
Not quite sure how to answer your question, but I'll give it a go.
I used some PB Blaster on the #5 plug that I took out a week or so back to get a match with the replacements. After seeing how easily it came out, I didn't bother doing that with with the others. All of the plugs unscrewed easily once they broke loose. I did use the ratchet when taking them out. There was no problem in starting any of the new plugs into the threads by hand. No indication of cross threading. Once in a while I had to back off a little after a number of turns because it got hard to turn the small diameter extension by hand. That cleared things and I was then able to get more turns. On most I was able to turn by hand all the way to the bottom. On one or two I used the 1/4" ratchet to finish the last turn or so. I believe the threads in the heads were in good shape with just some specks of carbon gunk left in them from taking the old plugs out. At one time I had thought about using a small bottle brush to clean the threads, but forgot about that idea after getting started.
The only plug that had any real deposit on the side electrode was #5, which also had the largest gap. I think that was likely the one that was miss firing. As you can see in the picture, all the plugs look clean. No indication of oil or dark deposits. Should be many, many more miles in this engine.
Forgot to mention above that we took the MH for a ride yesterday and the engine runs and idles smooth as silk. DW and I are happy campers again!
A big thank you to all who posted to this thread. Your ideas, suggestions and past experiences were a big help in getting this project done right.
CloudDriver wrote:
Not quite sure how to answer your question, but I'll give it a go.
Not quite sure how to answer your question, but I'll give it a go.
That was a Great Answer and Good News besides! It squares with that shop saying "You won't have any trouble."
Did you have to adjust gap on the new plugs, or just check them? I hear several of the newer plug types are pre-gapped and should NOT be adjusted.
Sounds like the take away's from this thread are:
Definitely can be done
Engine COLD
Don't hesitate to move things for better access
Blow the plug areas clean
Mostly common hand tools
Have a good socket/extension
I think I'll get that socket/flex/extension. I have both "beam" and "click" style torque wrenches. I always liked "beam" because they don't require calibration, but I've come to appreciate "click" since they require less "throw" to reach torque. Let alone not having to stay in position to look at it!
I bought this torque wrench for the job as I didn't have an inch-lb torque wrench.
I forgot to mention above that all of the coils that came from Summit Racing were Motorcraft, exactly the same as the one I bought from the dealer but $30 less cost each.
Saw some coils on Amazon at reasonable prices too. Reasonable if $400 in plugs and coils is "reasonable." I guess Coil On Plug/COP is a good concept, but like MPI with 10 cylinders to feed, the price tag gets big fast.
2003 Ford 450 Jayco Greyhawk 25D
1986 Jeep Renegade
2011 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon JK
"3rd Party Hosting has been temporaily disabled. to unlock your account visit: photobuc500ket.com/p"
Anybody know if this means that I need a photobucket account or that the photo poster's account is inactive for some reason.
Thanks for any help with this - I would really like to see those photos!
* This post was last edited 03/25/18 05:23pm by dtlockard *
dtlockard wrote:
I've been reseaching the replacement of my 2005 E350 V10 sparkplugs and came on this thread. Problem is instead of the photos of the project I get the following:
"3rd Party Hosting has been temporaily disabled. to unlock your account visit: photobuc500ket.com/p"
Anybody know if this means that I need a photobucket account or that the photo poster's account is inactive for some reason.
Thanks for any help with this - I would really like to see those photos!
I've been reseaching the replacement of my 2005 E350 V10 sparkplugs and came on this thread. Problem is instead of the photos of the project I get the following:
"3rd Party Hosting has been temporaily disabled. to unlock your account visit: photobuc500ket.com/p"
Anybody know if this means that I need a photobucket account or that the photo poster's account is inactive for some reason.
Thanks for any help with this - I would really like to see those photos!
Photobucket has decided that they want a large amount of money to display the photos members have stored on their site. Many like me have refused to pay this ransom to have our pictures displayed on forums like RV.net. That is why you see the message you are referring too.
2004 Gulf Stream Endura 6340 D/A SOLD
2012 Chevy Captiva Toad SOLD
Dave