What have you noticed about ride quality? How have they held up?
Some older reviews I read described a harsher ride with the Konis but that the Bilsteins didn't last as long. Still true? My dilemma is also that the Bilsteins are significantly cheaper.
I have a 29' Bigfoot Garage model on a Ford E-450 chassis. I was looking at the Bilstein HD shocks vs the Koni adjustable models.
Thanks in advance!
KIT CARSON
GOOD SAM LIFE MEMBER
USAF VETERAN
ARS: KE5VLE
NORTHWEST LOUISIANA
As for holding up, it's my understanding Bilstein will rebuild them for you. We do have about 30k miles on a set on our Tahoe.
If your shocks are worn, I suspect either brand you mentioned should result in an improvement in ride and/or handling.
Gary
Disclaimer: I do NOT have those installed. I base this on many reviews here and promotion of the FSD's at Hendersons Line Up near you in Grants Pass OR. Our crew here has had only good to report about FSD.
I left the computer and a couple votes came in for Bilstein. That's a Name that Needs no Introduction, anywhere in the world, and a great product.
What FSD is supposed to do, is probably more noticeable in the rear. Guys who have them, jump in if I'm wrong. E450 rear axle just pounds its way down the road, every expansion joint. Then you hit The Big One and want your shocks to react to it and control movement. Both brands'll do that. What FSD does, is de-emphasize its response to that constant high speed drumming by not being as tight as on a big bump. Frequency Sensitive = Majoring on the Major.
I ended up with two new Ford shocks on the front because they came with a new axle I bought. I have old Brand ??? on the rear. Might just spring for a pair of FSD's for that end... If I needed all four... sure tempting to buy four Bilstein for the price of two FSD...
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB
2017 Chevy Duramax LTZ with Z71
2018 Cedar Creek 34RL2 Hathaway Edition
After a lot of research I went with the heavy duty Bilstein's and after 11,000 miles could not be more pleased. I spoke with the folks at Bilstein and Shock Warehouse{who had the best prices on the internet along with excellent customer service}, several times seeking their input. Since we typically run close to our 11,500# GVWR and I often tow my Harley {bike and trailer are 900#}, the consistent recommendation was to go with the heavy duty model.
I am so pleased that we did as the ride improvement and additional stability and control are off of the chart wonderful. The rig always handled well and the ride seemed comfortable enough but the improvement was nothing short of amazing.
A word of caution for you DIY guys.... installing the Bilstein's is a serious PITA. I took the coach to a commercial truck repair center for the install. Two of their biggest guys worked for nearly 3 hours to get them on. The rears were no problem but getting the fronts compressed sufficiently try to permit the install was a serious struggle.
I have made no other changes to the coach other than the new shocks and it drives a like a large SUV. Passing trucks are simply not an issue and in winds up to 35 mph relaxed one handed steering is the norm. Along with the Bilstein's a lot of this ride quality is a reflection of the fact that my tires are properly inflated for the loads they carry and the CAT scale confirms that my weight is properly distributed and within spec.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/cool.gif "cool")
Kevin
I have used Bilstein shocks on all my vehicles for many years from These Guys and have been pleased with their performance. Their staff is knowledgeable and helpful and most times have the best prices.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C
Currently RV-less but not done yet.
Desert Captain wrote:
...installing the Bilstein's is a serious PITA. I took the coach to a commercial truck repair center for the install... getting the fronts compressed sufficiently try to permit the install was a serious struggle...
...installing the Bilstein's is a serious PITA. I took the coach to a commercial truck repair center for the install... getting the fronts compressed sufficiently try to permit the install was a serious struggle...
I had to drop the front springs on our E450 out to install an upgraded front axle. When I found out how easy it is, to drop them out and put them back (no compression tool or anything like that!), I decided I'd drop the springs to change the front shocks. This does two things:
1. Gets Spring away from Shock. Then, it's easy to "fish" a wrench up inside the fender well to hold the top nut, and use another wrench on the hex part of the shaft to take apart/reassemble. If the spring's still there, next to the shock, that wrench has almost zero turn room.
2. It makes the lower mounting pin easier to slip the shock onto, and allows the shock to be a little more extended during installation.
* This post was edited 05/18/17 11:59am by j-d *
2014 Leprechaun 290QB
Chevy 4500 6.0
2015 GMC Terrain AWD
Here is one of our red adjustable Koni shock absorbers. I understand you need to take them off the vehicle, either fully or partial, to adjust them. It was recommended to me by the RV suspension shop to set them to the stiffest setting because of the consistent heavy weight of the motor home.
My red Koni adjustable shocks did NOT come with a lifetime warrantee.
![[image]](https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4246/34710859106_489b82b44e.jpg)
Not meaning to change the topic here, but it is related....Has anyone tried Sulastic Shackles? I would give them a try but the $400 price tag is too steep to experiment with.
![[image]](http://www.sulastic.com/content/images/thumbs/0000675_sa-06hdd-sulastic-shackle-for-rear-axle_300.jpeg)
* This post was edited 05/19/17 04:32am by ron.dittmer *
2007 Phoenix Cruiser model 2350, with 2006 Jeep Liberty in-tow
Yep, to adjust those Koni's, at least one end has to be removed. Then the shock needs to be extended and the rubber bumper pulled out.(It's up inside the shock "hat") Once that is out, you then compress the shock and rotate it to adjust the dampening. If it were me, I would set them just as you have them...stiff.
Gary
I dread doing the REAR! Front, wheel comes off, I sit beside the job. Rear, Under then it's all UP. Storage, Drive Shaft, Exhaust, Springs, Sway Bar, Track Bar... UGH!
My stage of life suggests doing work like shocks soon, before I get any more lame, more stiff... My focus is already wrong for this kinda work, glasses on or off are both out of range...
j-d wrote:
If I ever get to replace shocks on an RV, I do not plan on return adjustment trips!
I dread doing the REAR! Front, wheel comes off, I sit beside the job. Rear, Under then it's all UP. Storage, Drive Shaft, Exhaust, Springs, Sway Bar, Track Bar... UGH!
My stage of life suggests doing work like shocks soon, before I get any more lame, more stiff... My focus is already wrong for this kinda work, glasses on or off are both out of range...
If I ever get to replace shocks on an RV, I do not plan on return adjustment trips!
I dread doing the REAR! Front, wheel comes off, I sit beside the job. Rear, Under then it's all UP. Storage, Drive Shaft, Exhaust, Springs, Sway Bar, Track Bar... UGH!
My stage of life suggests doing work like shocks soon, before I get any more lame, more stiff... My focus is already wrong for this kinda work, glasses on or off are both out of range...
This is another of the many reasons I paid the commercial truck shop to install my Bixstein's. They worked from a pit and the rears weren't bad but like I said the fronts were a PITA.
The Koni FSD (gold color) shocks are the only ones I could find that acted both ways - they respond with soft resistance on sudden jolts from the rear axle when hitting cracks and potholes, and with stiff resistance from slower changes occuring between the rear axle and the chassis frame when going over dips in the road, from sideways forces while going around curves, from wind push with passing trucks, etc.. The Koni shocks were expensive, but have been well worth it in order to remove much of the "crack and pothole sting" from Ford's E450 rear leaf srpings when carrying a small Class C. I wanted the E450 for chassis over-kill on a small Class C in order to get the heavy duty chassis advantages without having to pay such a big price from having lightly loaded rear leaf springs. Full air suspension accomplishes this in the ultimate way, but of course is way more expensive than Koni FSD shocks.
To change the subject: Ron Dittmer .... I have had Sulastic rubber shackles on the rear of my 4X4 pickup for years to try and make it ride smoother when empty (installed them myself). The shackles did nothing to help tame it's rough unloaded ride. The pickup rides way smoother with a load in it's bed of course, but this is normal for pickups anyway - so I don't really know what good the Sulastic shackles did me. However, your Class C has a well loaded rear axle all the time and if it's still a bit stiff in the rear from it's leaf springs, then maybe the Sulastic rubber shackles would do some good under certain conditions of road suface or lateral (swaying) forces.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C
I replaced front and back with the Bilstein's no problems at all.
J-D stopped by while visiting his family here and helped me install a rear sway bar.
Land of Opportunity & Liberty 4 ALL!
bagman wrote:
JRide Plus = 1. Hellwig Helper Springs. 2. Rubber Isolation Mounts, 3. Computer-Balanced Drive Shaft, 4. Bilstein Shocks, 5. Standard Front Stabilizer Bar, & 6. Heavy-Duty rear Stabilizer Bar. The question is, how many other manufacturers of Class C motor homes add all these extra suspension upgrades? Does Fleetwood, Thor, & Forest River do this? I don't know! Bags.
Bagman,JRide Plus = 1. Hellwig Helper Springs. 2. Rubber Isolation Mounts, 3. Computer-Balanced Drive Shaft, 4. Bilstein Shocks, 5. Standard Front Stabilizer Bar, & 6. Heavy-Duty rear Stabilizer Bar. The question is, how many other manufacturers of Class C motor homes add all these extra suspension upgrades? Does Fleetwood, Thor, & Forest River do this? I don't know! Bags.
Many years ago, I think one high end motor home manufacture did, maybe it was Dynamax. They added a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar to their E350s because back then the E350 didn't have a rear stabilizer bar of any kind. My 2007 E350 didn't.
Today I don't think anyone upgrades the chassis in any fashion. It's an added expense that most people wouldn't understand, at least not until after their purchase.
I feel the upgrades should be done at Ford on the assembly line and added into the purchase price to the RV outfitters. If it were up to me, it would be a federal mandate for general safety. The RV industry is so far behind the auto industry with regards to safety. If they followed the same regulations, there wouldn't be any motor homes on the road. But having appropriate stabilizer bars, shock absorbers, steering stabilizer and a rear trac bar, are all very simple to incorporate, and affordably so if done on the Ford assembly line.
Ron Dittmer
bagman wrote:
Ron, the Jayco Seneca Super C has JRide Premium which also included full air brakes and air suspension (bags).
Super C chassis's are in a category all their own. I refer only to the standard B+/C industry.
Ron, the Jayco Seneca Super C has JRide Premium which also included full air brakes and air suspension (bags).
* This post was edited 05/28/17 10:20am by bagman *
ron.dittmer wrote:
Someone on the Phoenix Cruiser forum just shared with me that the E350/E450 driver/front shock absorber top nut is easy to access from above by popping off a rubber boot behind the carpet. I wonder how many years that boot has been installed by Ford and nobody knows about it because nobody here has ever mentioned it.
Someone on the Phoenix Cruiser forum just shared with me that the E350/E450 driver/front shock absorber top nut is easy to access from above by popping off a rubber boot behind the carpet. I wonder how many years that boot has been installed by Ford and nobody knows about it because nobody here has ever mentioned it.
Ron ... wow - I hope that's true and I'll bet that it is!
I use a very competent commercial truck shop for maintenance on our E450. When I have them install Koni FSD shocks on the front (they're on only the rear at present) I'll tell them about the access ports, but they're probably well aware of the ports if they exist.
I can't imagine that Ford did not make provision for a more convenient way to replace front shocks on their E Series than the struggle that the variouus DIY mechanics describe. It even seems like that folks trying to replace the front shocks would be looking up and then naturally see a round port-like area right above the top nut that they were struggling to get a wrench on - if the port is there.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
Ron, I looked a the Forum you linked, but couldn't find the thread about this. Can you link it in detail?
Nearly all the shocks used in these Fords, have the customary nut on top, but they also have a hex surface as part of the very top of the rod. It's very easy to get a wrench into the fender well area and onto the top of that shock. Here's the Driver Side of our E450:
![[image]](https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3776/13095920953_502067ff64.jpg)
, on Flickr width=400 border="0" alt="[image]">Here it is with a wrench barely visible inside the fender well. It's on the top nut of the Shock:
![[image]](https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7427/13095927593_74ac02a2da.jpg)
, on Flickr width=400[/img]The open end wrench is below the shock mount/spring pad. The Spring has been removed. Notice now, how you have lots of throw for the open end wrench. There's nearly none with the Spring in place.
Here are the Older and Newer Shock Types:
, on Flickr width=400[/img]New is on top. The Lower and Upper "Insulators" are now one piece each. For example, the Top Bushing, Washer and Nut come assembled. I think the Upper was 17mm and Lower was 19mm on Old, New is different and I forget what those sizes were. If you gotta have them I can work that into my busy schedule... Notice how short the stud is on the Old. Both shock shafts broke off, at about the same point. On passenger side, pieces went flying and I never found my Wrench or the Top Nut... So tie a string to your wrench!
What I hope to show you, is how you CAN get a "holding" wrench on the TOP nut, then work the Lower with an open end wrench. And, the working room you get by dropping the Spring out. It also gives you more room to remove/connect the lower shock mount.
Driver side is worst case. On passenger, I could probably get a flex ratchet and a socket in there, or a Gear Wrench with a floppy head. Much more room over there.
It looks like an air bag .... but in the front?? Aftermarket item ... if so, who makes it and why is it necessary?
![[image]](https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/A/L/AL80531_250.jpg)
When I installed the 2012 front axle, I wanted to install Super Springs
![[image]](https://www.etrailer.com/static/images/pics/S/S/SSC-31_250.jpg)
but they seemed to be back ordered everywhere. The coach has always sat a little low in the front. It takes a leveling board to be level on a level site. Front axle weight is about 4500.
Super Springs unavailable, I went with Air Lift hoping to pick up a little more front end ride height. Maybe half an inch, but they have improved the ride. Better over dips in the road, and a little more stable. The suspension seems quieter than before. But... it now has the 2008 and newer Radius Arms with a different bushing design.
Summary: There are other products that do more for ride height. Some day I may try Super Springs.
My under-loaded E450 (24 foot coach) sits almost perfectly level front to rear. It seems like my coach should sit high in the rear, but it doesn't.
1. Even in this thread, it's well known that Jayco adds/added some Hellwig upgrades to its coaches. A lot of the bigger ones got Hellwig rear helper springs. Ours does not have them and there aren't any marks or extra brackets to indicate they were ever there. It also didn't have upgraded sway bars from Hellwig. Yet, there's a Hellwig Warranty Card in the packet I got from the original owners...
2. 2002 E450 had a front axle capacity of 4600, and 2008 and newer went to 5000. Yet, the people at Quigley where I bought the 2012 front axle, said the code tag of "VV" on my original springs, was the stiffest one Ford offers. In other words, the 5000 axle has no heavier springs than the 4600. Quigley re-uses the front springs when they convert an E-450 to 4x4 using F-350 parts, so I didn't get new springs with my "kit." Anyhow, our springs have had 4500 sitting on them since 2002. I'd sag too... Oh, I actually have!
3. Since riding front end low, lessens Caster, so I'd be glad to raise the front a couple inches, back to level. Somebody must understand that, because Super Springs are supposed to raise the front 2 inches.
HUGE improvement. Roll and sway and that tippy, top-heavy feeling are gone with no porpoising.
This is the second RV we have put Bilsteins on. My last two trucks, a F350 and an F150 both got Bilsteins as well.
Great results all around.
Whizbang
2002 Winnebago Minnie
http://www.raincityhome.com/RAWH/index.htm
whizbang wrote:
I replaced worn out Ford OEM shocks with Bilsteins on a Winnebago Minnie at 38,445 miles.
I replaced worn out Ford OEM shocks with Bilsteins on a Winnebago Minnie at 38,445 miles.
Bilstein used to offer "heavy duty" and "comfort" versions of their shocks for Class C.
Did you look at that? If so, which did you get?
j-d wrote:
Bilstein used to offer "heavy duty" and "comfort" versions of their shocks for Class C.
Did you look at that? If so, which did you get?
Bilstein used to offer "heavy duty" and "comfort" versions of their shocks for Class C.
Did you look at that? If so, which did you get?
Good question regarding heavy duty versus comfort Bilstein versions.
I was faced with those same mutually exclusive shock damping methods when I reshocked the rears in our Class C.
What is needed varies by changing road surface and travel conditions. When I found out that race cars sometimes used high tech expensive shock systems that automatically adjusted between various damping rates in real time ... I looked for the same approach in an affordable RV shock.
The only one I could find that was also affordable was the Koni FSD shock. I had to contact Koni and wait a couple of years before they finally offered a version for the Ford E350 and E450 cutaway van chassis used in Class C motorhomes.
What I wound up with was a self-adjusting shock that automatically - in real time - adjusted to stiff for sway control and adjusted to soft for roadway cracks and potholes.
On the fronts, I ended up using a flex head ratchet wrench on the top nut and a plain wrench on the shock barrel. (The '98 E-SuperDuty chassis has no floorboard access hole on the passenger side, and the one on the driver side is not really big enough or well spaced to be much use in unbolting the shock; it's main purpose is to feed the shift cable through.) Of course, the OEM and Koni shocks use different size fasteners, so I had to buy two different flex head ratchet wrenches. The Konis required a 19mm one, which was not too easy to find locally, but 3/4" was more readily available and is the same size for any practical purpose. (3/4" is theoretically 0.05mm oversized. I don't know what the manufacturing tolerances are for wrenches, but it may well be larger than that theoretical difference.)
I'm sure you'll let us know how they worked for you in operation.
Thanks!
The very next day, I replaced the 8 year old Dean tires with new Michelins.
Between the tires and the shocks... Wow! It drives like a new rig.
Anybody that replaced with the Koni's FDS shocks have anymore feed back on them ?
Debating which to go with this time around the Bilsteins like I have on the last two MH's or try out the Koni FDS's
pauldub wrote:
I put the Koni's on the rear of my 24' Minnie E-450. They didn't give me much improvement over the Ford OEM shocks.
I put the Koni's on the rear of my 24' Minnie E-450. They didn't give me much improvement over the Ford OEM shocks.
Thanks for that! It's disappointing, but we need honesty here! You're one of the very few recently, who hasn't raved about the FSD's. An "early adopter" who had a set installed a couple years ago, didn't seem particularly pleased. I hoped for long term reports from him but he only posted a time or two and hasn't been back.
No rebate promotions from either one at this time.
But their website mentions :
Forum Discounts:
Are you a member of a car, truck or RV forum? Tell us about your forum and we can negotiate a discount for forum members Contact us toll free at 888-657-6075 or email us here.
Note on Forum discounts: Forum Discounts are for forum members only. Shockwarehouse reserves the right to remove a forum discount code from an order for unauthorized use. (IE: Consumer ordering BMW parts and uses a Ford discount code).
We've had FSD shocks in the rear of our E450 based small Class C for over two years ... and they do, in general, make the ride less harsh on roadway cracks and potholes. However I have just about absolute proof - regardless of what we feel up in the cab - of what the FSD shocks are doing to take the pounding sting out of cracks and potholes: We have a latch back in the shower that holds the folding accordian shower curtain open. That latch used to ALWAYS come unlatched after traveling a few miles on todays poorly maintained highways and freeways. After adding the FSD shocks, that latch now NEVER has come unlatched.
Regarding roll control on curves, when going into parking lots, when big-rigs pass us, and when traveling in strong cross-winds: Any affects are subtle in these situations because our small Class C underloads our E450 chassis ... which of course came stock with front and rear sway bars and a front steering shock. However, the sway contol with the FSD shocks only in the rear is certainly no less than it was before. If anything it's a more gently, rounded-off, less "jerky" control of roll in our 11,800 lb. E450 RV.
The reason I didn't go with any other rear shock is because I didn't think that what was needed was a rear shock that was stiffer all the time or softer all the time. I was happy with the roll control stiffness of the stock shocks, but I was tired of their stiffness being added to the leaf spring's stiffness on roadway cracks and potholes. I'm looking forward to completing the picture by adding FSD shocks in the front.
* This post was last edited 07/09/17 02:11pm by pnichols *
Trying to decide which Steering Stabilizer to go with Saf-T-Plus or ?
Not sure what the difference is between Bilstein steering stabilizer at $90 vs Saf-T-Plus at $358 ?
Also the last 2 older MH's on Chevy 3500 chassis we had I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein HDs and noticed a big difference.
This time around thinking of trying those Koni FSD shocks on the Ford E450 ?
Saf-T-Plus (and Roadmaster's RSSC) are hydraulic dampers (like OEM, Bilstein and Monroe) WITH SPRINGS to push the steering toward Center. S-T-P has two hidden springs, RSSC has one exposed spring.
How much help do you think it needs? Reducing sway takes a big first step. I remember Roadmaster's instructions saying to install the Sway Bar first if you're upgrading both Bar and Stabilizer.
Too hot here to do much too!
* This post was edited 07/10/17 05:23am by j-d *
I wonder if it is most beneficial only when you have a minimal amount of load-margin when fully loaded on a trip. A short 24' motor home built on an E450 chassis is going to bounce down the road no matter what you do with exception to removing a leaf spring or two. The same fully-loaded rig built on an E350, the ride will naturally be much softer and so the FSD shocks can be more effective.
We own a rig that is 23-8" long end-to-end. It is built on a 2007 E350 with a GVWR of 11,500. On our heaviest trip, it weighed in at 11,480 pounds, right at the chassis limit. The rig is equipped with the older red Koni-RV adjustable shocks set to the stiffest setting, along with HD stabilizer bars. During that trip, I laid on the hard floor face up with my head resting over the rear axle. I felt every road imperfection like crazy. I would hope the FSD shocks could soften up just that very thing. I wish I had a good reason to replace our good condition, working red Koni RV adjustable shocks, but we were not blessed with money to burn like that.
ron.dittmer wrote:
Regarding the FSD shock absorbers not being effective enough on some rigs.
I wonder if it is most beneficial only when you have a minimal amount of load-margin when fully loaded on a trip. A short 24' motor home built on an E450 chassis is going to bounce down the road no matter what you do with exception to removing a leaf spring or two. The same fully-loaded rig built on an E350, the ride will naturally be much softer and so the FSD shocks can be more effective.
We own a rig that is 23-8" long end-to-end. It is built on a 2007 E350 with a GVWR of 11,500. On our heaviest trip, it weighed in at 11,480 pounds, right at the chassis limit. The rig is equipped with the older red Koni-RV adjustable shocks set to the stiffest setting, along with HD stabilizer bars. During that trip, I laid on the hard floor face up with my head resting over the rear axle. I felt every road imperfection like crazy. I would hope the FSD shocks could soften up just that very thing. I wish I had a good reason to replace our good condition, working red Koni RV adjustable shocks, but we were not blessed with money to burn like that.
Regarding the FSD shock absorbers not being effective enough on some rigs.
I wonder if it is most beneficial only when you have a minimal amount of load-margin when fully loaded on a trip. A short 24' motor home built on an E450 chassis is going to bounce down the road no matter what you do with exception to removing a leaf spring or two. The same fully-loaded rig built on an E350, the ride will naturally be much softer and so the FSD shocks can be more effective.
We own a rig that is 23-8" long end-to-end. It is built on a 2007 E350 with a GVWR of 11,500. On our heaviest trip, it weighed in at 11,480 pounds, right at the chassis limit. The rig is equipped with the older red Koni-RV adjustable shocks set to the stiffest setting, along with HD stabilizer bars. During that trip, I laid on the hard floor face up with my head resting over the rear axle. I felt every road imperfection like crazy. I would hope the FSD shocks could soften up just that very thing. I wish I had a good reason to replace our good condition, working red Koni RV adjustable shocks, but we were not blessed with money to burn like that.
Ron just hit the proverbial nail on the head. The E-350, even when fully loaded will give a far smoother ride than a comparable E-450. Our 2012 E-350, like Ron's, has a GVWR of 11,500 and we also run very close to that number on almost every trip. At 33,000 miles I replaced the worn out original shocks with the heavy duty Bilsteins and the ride improvement was off of the chart. It always rode and handled well but the addition of the Bilsteins took it to a whole new level.
When leaf springs are loaded up close to their limits the vehicle's vertical up/down motion and rolling motion cannot be constrained as much or well by the springs themselves. Hence the vehicle could tend to bounce up and down and roll too much unless stiff(er) shocks or other suspension configurations stop it. This indeed would be the situation with many Class C rigs built on the E350 chassis.
My situation was more complex, so I did not want the stiffness of firm(er) shocks to be added to the stiffness already present from my under-loaded springs. I wanted shocks that were "not there" on the sharp road surface changes that potholes and cracks present to the tires, while of course wanting shocks that were "really present and accounted for" in situations tending to roll the vehicle back and forth on it's frame.
It would take a shock that could act two ways to do this. These two ways could only be designed-in based upon how fast the shock mechanism was trying to be depressed or extended by a vertical action or a rolling action - hence the "freguency" of that action. That's why I had to have a shock with a stiffness rate that was variable in real time and why I chose Koni's Frequency Selective Damping (FSD) shocks instead of shocks that were all the time softer or all the time stiffer - regardless of whether they were gas or hydraulic single action shocks. Search the WEB using the terms "shocks" and "frequency" to come up with many articles explaining how important the speed (frequency) of reaction of a shock versus it's resistance to that action can be for the best ride in a vehicle.
The help that a quality stiff(er) single action shock will give to reduce bounce and roll in a vehicle with heavily loaded rear leaf springs can be felt immediately and impressively. Since many Class C rigs are heavily loading their rear leaf springs, single action shocks usually will do. Of course Koni's FSD shocks should also be (subtley) superior in a minimal weight margin E350 based Class C ... but perhaps to some folks not worth the extra money when a single action gas or hydraulic shock might be good enough for them.
Note that the Koni shocks that Ron has on his Class C are not Koni's FSD shocks. His Koni shocks are single action shocks, but with several different stiffness rates being selectable by the owner.
* This post was edited 07/10/17 01:48pm by pnichols *
Just replaced the front sway bar , man what a difference in size from the stock one!
Thanks for the explanation on the S-T-P vs the stock/Bilstein steering stabilizers... Will have to wait till next month on buying that one.
The rear Sway bar is going to be a big pain in the butt ! Long overhang plus has the spare tire mounted up under there too.
Pinchols
Like your explanation ,very well explained !
Think I'm going to go with the Koni FSD's this time around.