Coast Resorts Open Roads Forum: Changing tire on new 2017 class c

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Topic: Changing tire on new 2017 class c

Posted By: Udetective on 05/09/17 06:52pm

I just purchased a new class C on Ford chassis. I'm taking it on a 6k mile trip and want to carry a jack and any tools needed to change tire. I for the life of me, can't find the right tool to remove rear dually hubcap and actual instructions on how to remove it. Any help would be appreciated and any recommendations on tools. I think I'm going to get a 12 ton jack. Thanks in advance.

Posted By: DrewE on 05/09/17 07:11pm

It might help to post a picture of the hubcap in question.

Many motorhomes have "wheel simulators" that are held on by two of the lug nut caps while the remaining six are fakes. Typically the two real ones have a little dimple or other subtle mark on them, and of course are removed simply by unscrewing them from the wheel stud. I find it's easier to tell the real nuts from the fakes by lightly tapping with a wrench handle or whatever and listening to whether it goes tink or tunk rather than trying to discern the dimpled end. The front ones are similar.

There are other sorts of hub caps or wheel covers, however.

Posted By: Desert Captain on 05/09/17 08:44pm

Get to Harbor Freight. The tool you seek has a flat screw driver style blade offset with a rubber mallet attached. The blade splits/peels the wheel cover off and the rubber mallet pounds it back in place. You do not need a 12 ton bottle Jack as you are only lifting one quarter at a time, a 6 or 8 ton will be more than enough but get a a jackstand. Never trust your life to any jack. A large "X" style lug wrench along with a short length of pipe to slide over it for additional leverage will get those lugs off.

A small compressor/jumpstart unit is also good to have. Don't forget a tire repair kit as well. Make sure you have a proper spare and can get to it easily. As noted you can get the tools cheap at HF and hopefully will never need them... I've used mine several times...

[emoticon]

Posted By: dave17352 on 05/09/17 09:29pm

When you go to Harbor Freight one option would be to be a 5/8 breaker bar and the proper sized deep well socket. I prefer that over other lug wrenches. I also keep a section of steel pipe for a cheater. It works greaaaaaaat! In storage you slide you cheater bar over your breaker bar and it takes up very little space. JMHO

* This post was edited 05/10/17 05:00am by dave17352 *

NOW 2017 Leprechaun 260ds
2005 Forrest River Cardinal 29rkle FW
1998 Lance 980 11'3" TC
2017 CHEVY 3500 SRW 6.0
B@W turnover ball @ companion Hitch
Honda eu3000 generator mounted on cargo rack
Crestliner 1850 Fish Ski boat mostly fishing now!

Posted By: IAMICHABOD on 05/09/17 10:16pm

This seems to be the problem when this subject comes up.

Some people call them simulators when they are really hubcaps or wheel covers Like This

A real simulator bolts on the wheel and will not come off unless you loose a Lug nut
Like This

Or This

So which one do you have??

2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

Posted By: midnightsadie on 05/10/17 04:39am

join a good road side assistance club. they have emg service. changing a tire on the side of a road with big rigs flying by is not fun.

Posted By: mgirardo on 05/10/17 05:34am

I don't know if Ford changed suppliers, but our simulated hub cabs on the 2008 Model Year E450 were similar to those in the first video posted by IAMICHABOD. They were easy to remove, just needed a firm hand. Although our motorhome did not come with a jack, it did come with a massive lug nut wrench. The wrench had a flat head screw driver like blade on one end that allowed the simulators to be pried off. I just had to work the blade around the edge of the simulator and pry it a little at a time in each location. Eventually it would pop-off.

If you use something small, like a screw driver to pry them off, you can dent them. Make sure you use something with a large blade to distribute the pressure evenly.

-Michael

Michael Girardo
2017 Jayco Jayflight Bungalow 40BHQS Destination Trailer
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome (previously owned)
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer (previously owned)
1995 Jayco Eagle 12KB pop-up (previously owned)

Posted By: j-d on 05/10/17 06:14am

THIS is the Jack you Need!
[image]

and HERE is the URL for it. It's nearly twice the price of the very cheapest 12T jacks because it's Two Stage. That means you can fit it under the axle when the tire is FLAT and still get enough Lift to install an inflated tire.
Lug nut size is only 7/8" and Torque is 140-ft-lb. A Socket and Breaker Bar in 1/2" drive "will" work but 3/4" drive is of course better. You need an Extension, probably 6", to get to the rear wheel nuts. I have a 1/2" electric impact wrench and enough extension cord to work from the onboard generator, but that's overkill to the point I've always used hand tools on the wheel nuts. I've heard that garden variety (they're even Green!) RYOBI One+ Impact (it's 1/2" drive) will handle the Ford lug nuts. A "Cross" (aka Four Way) Lug Wrench works just fine, IF it's the "Truck" one. Amazon has bunches of them, just look for 7/8" as probably the smallest hex size, and the arms 22" or so long. [image]

I also carry a small Jack Stand, and some blocks to support Jack and Stand on soft surfaces.
We really need to know about your Wheel Covers, Wheel Simulators, or whatever they are. We have the DICOR brand, and when new, they come with a little socket tool. Look carefully at the simulated "Nuts" on your covers. With DICOR, two of the eight have a little dimple stamped into two of the hex surfaces. That's to hold the steel nut inside, that holds the simulator to two studs on each wheel. I think it's 1-1/8".
A couple tips based on hard luck on my part and others:
1. Use the Black Impact Sockets with any Impact Wrench! Yes, they're stronger, but it's also that if a socket splits, Chrome Slivers are more likely to cut you than Black Chips. Many places including Harbor Fright sell 1/2" drive, deep, impact sockets individually.
2. Custom Valves like these Dually Valves will greatly reduce the chances of having a flat. Rubber Valves, Screw-On Adapters, Braided Extenders, ALL can lead to loss of air. There's another brand beside Dually Valves (also called BORG) and both are good. I have BORG and they're available now at Camping World.

If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Posted By: Udetective on 05/10/17 06:42am

Everyone in here is so awesome and helpful. THANKS!!! Here are pics of my hubcaps, I'm not seeing dimples. So I'm assuming they are true hubcaps. I have picked up a Jack like the ones you have pictured, but I went with this ONE

Thanks again everyone
[image]

Posted By: crasster on 05/10/17 08:00am

Desert Captain wrote:

X2
One of the best investments I've made is to get the security bits and funky security tool sets from Harbor Freight. I've used them more times than I can count.

4 whopping cylinders on Toyota RV's. Talk about great getting good MPG. Also I have a very light foot on the pedal. I followed some MPG advice on Livingpress.com and I now get 22 MPG! Not bad for a home on wheels.

Posted By: j-d on 05/10/17 08:30am

I already had a Dozen-Ton jack about like you linked. It's an old commercial one, Blackhawk brand. In case you were wondering, a Four Ton "Can" lift a rear corner of a Class C, but it'd take more push on the handle than we can produce on a reach. What I don't know about a single-piston 12-ton, is IF it goes "short" enough to get under the axle under flat-tire-side-of-the-road conditions.

I carry my own old 12T because I didn't know any better. If you're starting out new, and want what's sure to work, return the single piston and get a Two Stage. By the same logic, don't get a single piston "Shorty" that will fit under the axle with a flat, but might not lift high enough to install your spare.

Your simulator pix look like our Dicor sims. I say that because they don't have a separate center piece like the Pacific Dually sims in one of the links above, also because the pattern of the hole for the front valve looks like ours, and the starburst image in the center.

Look at your simulated Lug Nuts carefully. Of eight nuts with six wrench flats each, I think you'll find that two nuts have marks on two sides. If that's the case, remove one of those nuts (front is easier without socket and extension) and get a deep socket in that size. Again, I think 1-1/8".

Posted By: pnichols on 05/10/17 11:26am

Robert (the OP),

Your chrome wheel covers are just like those on my Ford E450 motorhome. Those chrome knobs that look like lug nuts are of course covering up the real lug nuts that are under each knob. Two of those chrome knobs screw on/off and hold the chrome wheel cover in place against the steel rim behind. The two knobs that do this are 180 degrees apart across from each other. Our motorhome (Winnebago Itasca) came with a neat little wrench specially made to fit these two knobs for screwing them on/off. Your rig may have one of these special knob removal wrenches tucked away somewhere in one of it's storage bays. Ours came in a snap bracket that stores it neatly on a sidewall of the rear exterior storage bay.

BE AWARE that those knobs screw onto about the final 1/4 inch of a wheel lug and because of this the knob's threads can easily be cross-threaded and ruined. If you ruin one chrome knob on a trip, you have to not use the big chrome wheel cover, as you shouldn't rely on just one chrome knob to hold a chrome cover in place. It's hard to find a storage place for the large awkward one chrome wheel cover that you have to keep off the wheel for the remainder of the trip. I have had to buy more of the chrome retainer knobs and we now carry along a spare chrome knob.

It's too late now, but the jack you bought does not look like the two stage type that j-d shows above. That 12 ton double ram hydraulic bottle jack lifts extra high, while at the same time fully retracts real low - offering more flexibility to meet a large variety of jacking situations. We have carried one like it for years in our motorhome just in case ... as you never know what type of surface you might need to be placing the jack on or what jacking point on the frame you may need to use. We bring along many pieces of wood and blocks to provide a broader base for the jack on soft or irregular surfaces, as we sometimes travel and camp off-highway and have to be ready for anything.

We also carry along a couple of those pre-charged canisters for inflating truck tires, plus we also carry along a regular commercial truck tire puncture hole plugging kit ... along with a mounted spare inflated to it's full Load Range E pressure of 80 lbs.. To go with all of these items, we always pack along a full power 120V air compressor that can quickly inflate a truck tire ... the built-in generator can power it anywhere anytime.

Expect the best, but prepare for the worst ... I only wish that I could afford a satellite phone for our RV trips!

* This post was last edited 05/15/17 01:34pm by pnichols *

2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

Posted By: mrdcb18 on 05/11/17 06:02pm

You should have roadside assistance with the new chassis from Ford. We had it with both our new Ford motorhome chassis. You just need a spare. Should last 5 years.

Posted By: pauldub on 05/11/17 09:05pm

mrdcb18 wrote:

You should have roadside assistance with the new chassis from Ford. We had it with both our new Ford motorhome chassis. You just need a spare. Should last 5 years.

And you need 1)cell phone, 2)cell phone service, and 3)roadside service provider nearby. 2) and 3) are not available in many areas of the western states.

Posted By: pauldub on 05/11/17 09:08pm

pnichols, the satelite phones are expensive to own and operate but a satelite messenger device is affordable. Take a look at Garmin's inReach devices.

Posted By: pnichols on 05/11/17 09:42pm

pauldub wrote:

pnichols, the satelite phones are expensive to own and operate but a satelite messenger device is affordable. Take a look at Garmin's inReach devices.

Yes, I'm aware of some of those services. A few of the SPOT units and services look interesting, too. They seem to concentrate primarily on medical emergencies and personal rescue. Can you contact ERS through any of these?

In addition to the above, what I would also like is an ERS service that covers coming to help into some of the remote areas where we sometimes go with our RV. The premiums would cost more, but hopefully they would come to help at way less cost than having no coverage at all when off-highway.

Posted By: gkainz on 05/12/17 10:00am

To the OP ... if you still haven't found the very well camouflaged nuts that remove the simulator or hubcap or wheel cover, I helped a friend on a Ford chassis Class A last week, and the 2 secret nuts were very subtly marked with a small line that was parallel to the lug bolt (came straight out from the wheel and was about 1/2" long) and only on one or two sides of the nut. Wipe clean, look carefully and may have to find it by braille!
Good luck!

'07 Ram 2500 CTD 4x4 Quad Cab
'10 Keystone Laredo 245 5er

Posted By: j-d on 05/12/17 12:47pm

Here's a pic of a Dicor nut. Seems the ones mentioned above have the dimples turned 90* so they're vertical

[image]

We can call AAA for our "RV Plus" roadside assistance. Still, I want to be fully equipped in case

1. They can't come out

2. They come out and find they forgot a needed tool

3. They aren't out and a Good Samaritan wants to help me

4. I end up changing it myself

Posted By: pauldub on 05/12/17 05:31pm

pnichols wrote:

pauldub wrote:

pnichols, the satelite phones are expensive to own and operate but a satelite messenger device is affordable. Take a look at Garmin's inReach devices.

The Garmin inReach lets you text send messages to anyone with a cell phone or you can send email. That doesn't necessarily contact an ERS directly but I could send a text message to someone who could call them for me.

Posted By: Islandman on 05/12/17 08:04pm

Won't hurt to also have some of the reflective triangles and/or roadside flares to warn approaching traffic that you're stopped along the highway; this is especially important where you can't get off the travel way onto a wide shoulder or a turnout. Have some good flashlights also for night changing.

Posted By: TyroneandGladys on 05/12/17 09:53pm

Just a wild idea since you just bought it new just maybe the dealer you bought if from could answer your question and possibly even show you how to remove them.

Tyrone & Gladys
27' 1986 Coachmen

Posted By: T18skyguy on 05/13/17 12:11am

A few of us in our family are on critical medication, so the first thing I pack is the meds so we don't forget it. In addition to the wheel tools, I pack a 1/4 inch flex head ratchet with both SAE and Metric sockets, some extensions, one of those screwdrivers with a small box of different type tips, a multimeter, vise grips, and AAA plus RV in case I need to be towed. And don't forget the charger for the phone.

Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. Between rigs right now.. Wife and daughter. Four cats which we must obey.

Posted By: Desert Captain on 05/13/17 08:43am

Islandman wrote:

X2 Great post...

This very salient point had been overlooked.

Posted By: Udetective on 05/15/17 05:45am

pnichols wrote:

Robert (the OP),

Your chrome wheel covers are just like those on my Ford E450 motorhome. Those chrome knobs that look like lug nuts are of course covering up the real lug nuts that are under each knob. Two of those chrome knobs screw on/off and hold the chrome wheel cover in place against the steel rim behind. The two knobs that do this are 180 degrees apart across from each other. Our motorhome (Winnebago Itasca) came with a neat little wrench specially made to fit these two knobs for screwing them on/off. Your rig may have one of these special knob removal wrenches tucked away somewhere in one of it's storage bays. Ours came in a snap bracket that stores it neatly on a sidewall of the rear exterior storage bay.

BE AWARE that those knobs screw onto about the final 1/4 inch of a wheel lug and because of this the knob's threads can easily be cross-threaded and ruined. If you ruin one chrome knob on a trip, you have to not use the big chrome wheel cover, as you shouldn't rely on just one chrome knob to hold a chrome cover in place. It's hard to find a storage place for the large awkward one chrome wheel cover that you have to keep off the wheel for the remainder of the trip. I have had to buy more of the chrome retainer knobs and we now carry along a spare chrome knob.

It's too late now, but the jack you bought does not look like the two stage type that j-d shows above. That 12 ton double ram hydraulic bottle jack lifts extra high, while at the same time fully retracts real low - offering more flexibility to meet a large variety of jacking situations. We have carried one like it for years in our motorhome just in case ... as you never know what type of surface you might need to be placing the jack on or what jacking point on the frame you may need to use. We bring along many pieces of wood and blocks to provide a broader base for the jack on soft or irregular surfaces, as we sometimes travel and camp off-highway and have to be ready for anything.

We also carry along a couple of those pre-charged canisters for inflating truck tires, plus we also carry along a regular commercial truck tire puncture hole plugging kit ... along with a mounted spare inflated to it's full Load Range E pressure of 80 lbs.. To got with all of these items, we always pack along a full power 120V air compressor that can quickly inflate a truck tire ... the built-in generator can power it anywhere anytime.

Expect the best, but prepare for the worst ... I only wish that I could afford a satellite phone for our RV trips!

Thanks so much. I ended up returning that jack and getting a 2 stage. Thanks for all the info!

Posted By: Udetective on 05/15/17 05:51am

Thank you everyone for the great info!!!

Posted By: j-d on 05/15/17 07:42am

But can you get your Wheel Simulators off? I looked but didn't see where that point was settled.

I covet your 2 stage jack. My advice to get that is based on doing some research after listening to others' experiences. I already had a single piston 12-ton. Thought it was no longer working, and bought a 10-ton that HF was selling at the time we got the 2003 coach. Knowing better now, any "RV" jack I replace or recommend will be what Phil and others now have. But with a working 12, a newer 10, a 6, a 4, and two 2's I don't think it's time to add one.

I've changed only one Class C flat. Left rear blowout on old E350. Blocked the RF wheel and lifted LR with a the LR hydraulic leveling jack. Ignorance. That 1984 coach had four individual leveling controls, and I don't think anybody was worried about racking the coach by lifting one corner by the chassis.

Only other emergency stuff I've done was stuck brake calipers on RF and RR. Used the 10T at campsites and it turned out OK. I'm sure the state parks didn't want me doing that but I was kinda stuck and it worked out the coach was pointed away from the casually curious. I went back and did the other side of the brakes, but at home on the concrete pad.

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